Rusty_OToole
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Posts posted by Rusty_OToole
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20" vacuum is pretty good, probably about as good as you are going to get.
You can get more adjustment on the distributor by moving the plug wires one spot to the right or left as the case may require. Or you could really go to town and time it from scratch, moving the distributor to the recommended position and changing the mesh of the gears. To do this you would have to pull out the distributor and put it back in with the rotor repositioned, after setting the engine to top dead center.
There are 2 spring loaded adjustment screws. One at the bottom of the carb for mixture, the other on the throttle linkage for idle speed. Start by turning in the mixture screw until the engine slows down or blubbers, then back out 3/4 turn. Now go to the idle speed and slow it down as far as you dare, stock is 400RPM* very slow, it may not go this slow if the engine is worn. You want the slowest idle speed without danger of stalling. If you had to adjust the speed a lot, you may have to go back and touch up the mixture then do the idle speed again.
Carb should be adjusted last, after the ignition is optimized. The rule is, adjust valves first, then do ignition, carb adjustment last.
Some carburetors also have a fast idle adjustment for when they are cold and the choke is on, this is like the idle speed but separate.
*Idle speed is about HALF a modern engine, if it seems too slow, but idles steady and picks up smoothly when you hit the throttle it is about right. 400RPM
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Now we are getting someplace. The lettering on the unit looks considerably newer than 1922. So you may stand a chance. It looks like the kind of vacuum booster used on big trucks vacuum brakes much bigger than a car booster.
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2 minutes ago, ABear said:
Jack,
I consider it a privilege to be here on this forum, it is a privilege to take my own learning experiences in life from childhood to present and translate that to helping folks. I am not a "professional" auto mechanic. I grew up around many old school things, my Dad owned a oilwell in the PA oil fields. I learned how to care for that well and the hit and miss engine, many many lessons from my Dad on mechanical stuff, oils, greases. Spent many, many nights and evenings working beside my Dad tearing down and rebuilding various auto engines, even a few automatic transmissions.
Yes, he was old school, just like yourself, absolutely nothing wrong with that. However, as life goes on, there are times where one is forced to substitute old school things with newer products in order to keep older items in running shape..
A very good example of this is try finding TRUE "type A" labeled transmission fluid..
Yeah, that one is in the history books.
Generally accepted that Dexron replaced (IE can be substituted for) Type A..
Can still find Type F, but that isn't typically available in retail stores (the only place I can find is Amazon).
Many, many oils and greases over the yrs have been discontinued/no longer available due to being superseded by newer versions so the reality is even though your manual printed in 1950s says to use a certain grease or oil, that should be consider as the MINIMUM recommendation and many newer oils and greases EXCEED those minimum specifications. Generally, you can almost never go wrong using oils and greases that EXCEED the manufacturers minimum recommendations.
I have a 1960s lawn and garden tractor that my Dad bought new, the single grade oil speced for the transmission simply does not exist, after researching I found that I could substitute more modern multi-vis gear oils with similar weight range.
As I mentioned, newer multi-vis oils are low or no zinc (ZDDP), that does bring a bit concern for some older engines, but you can offset that missing zinc package by just adding the recommended ZDDP additive and call it a day.
Words of wisdom. Can only add, zinc was first added to motor oils in the early fifties when some of the first OHV engines had cam and lifter wear problems. Their valve trains were heavier with stiffer springs than flathead engines and put more stress on the cams and lifters.
The zinc was taken out when all OEM manufacturers went to OHC and roller lifter cams and flat tappet pushrod V8s joined the Dodo birds.
In other words if you have a flathead, OHC or roller cam engine don't worry about the zinc. If you have a high perf pushrod OHV V8 you may need the zinc.
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51 minutes ago, Terry Harper said:
Are you missing blocks or are they cracked or otherwise unserviceable?
I was wondering about that myself. OP wants to reproduce the blocks, presumably to put on an engine? But he doesn't have an engine, or at least, does not have one block (out of two) intact enough to take measurements off of? Maybe he has got hold of an incomplete engine with the cylinders missing and wants to rebuild it for some reason?
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The OP would probably be ok to use 30 oil in his airport tug, as it was recommended by Chrysler in warm weather and I doubt he drives it when it is freezing. As for the sludge problem when using non detergent, his engine is on borrowed time so it probably wouldn't make much diff.
The big joke is that 15W40 is thicker than straight 30 when it is hot, so I was the one calling for thick oil. Only it is thinner when cold, for easier starting, and better lubrication when cold. And of course the detergent package helps keep the engine clean and free of sludge, important when the vehicle is used for short hops.
So if you want to go to the extra trouble of tracking down an oil that is admittedly inferior go ahead. But why pretend it is better for your engine when it isn't.
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The one time I needed a brake booster rebuilt (an under the floor booster for a 52 Chrysler New Yorker) I sent it to a rebuilder thru the local auto parts store. It is possible a rebuilder could match up the diaphragm from the many they keep in stock IF they had to booster and the old part to compare. But expecting some random guy on the net, to know off hand what kind of booster Mack used in 1922, and what new parts will fit it, seems like a stretch.
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39 minutes ago, Jack Bennett said:
Use a good, straight 30 weight, (ask the counter clerk specifically for) non-detergent motor oil. I like to check and change the oil in my old cars often, and, wanting to keep the hobby affordable, use the cheapest stuff sold by O’Reilly’s.
This is the kind of bum information that drives me crazy. Detergent oil was available from 1947 on, multigrade from 1951. The owner of an expensive new car in 1951, would hardly buy the cheap, recycled bulk oil sold in mason jars. Chances are it never used anything but 10W30 as that was the default choice at every dealership and service station in the fifties and sixties.
In any case I would not seek out inferior quality oil when there are so many better choices available. Chrysler DID approve use of 30 weight oil but ONLY in HOT weather under SEVERE service. And only when nothing better was available. 10W30 is much better for the engine and in your case, in view of the worn bearings etc 15W40 might be better.
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Try this recipe (by Colonel and Mrs Hudson) from a 1950 Ford cook book. I don't know how long Ford published cook books but evidently, for many years. At least 1950 - 1975.
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Twin Stick was a new take on the old 3 speed plus overdrive manual trans. You don't have to use the clutch but at least ease off the gas.
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5 hours ago, 1wonton said:
Thanks for all the fun comments. The vacuum brake pods are on a 1922 Mack truck. These were applied after the truck left the factory (Mack did not install booster brake mechanisms). It was no secret, just something that would mean nothing to a parts supplier or any of you highly qualified experts. No Chinese parts, just good old American equipment of a hundred years ago. Now that everybody commenting knows what I'm discussing I know the correct answer to my question will be instantly forwarded.
We still don't know the model, make, and year of the booster. Photos may help.
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Could be a result of new springs in the back vs worn, sagging springs in front. Depending how new they are, may flatten out and take a set after a few thousand miles.
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Something is wrong, obviously. Is there supposed to be a washer or spacer that goes under the movable point?
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Tiny bit of trivia here, Chrysler was the first company to go to electric wipers starting in 1939. The 52 Dodge did not have vacuum wipers, they were electric, which is why the manifold does not have a vacuum port BUT there should be plugs where a fitting can be screwed in just in case. Thought you might like to know why the Vacuum port is "missing".
And yes, vacuum for distributor advance is quite different from manifold vacuum. They do not interchange.
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One way to check this is by finding the crossover point of the cam in relation to the crankshaft. First you must verify or mark TDC on the crank pulley. Then using dial indicators, find the spot where intake and exhaust valves are open the same amount. One will be opening, the other closing, and a very small rotation will change the measurement. The crossover point should be at or near TDC. Like a couple of degrees. If it is way off you have a problem.
Incidentally advancing the cam enhances low speed cylinder filling, retarding it helps at higher speed. This is an old stock car racer's trick. But they would advance or retard the cam a couple of degrees at a time using an offset bushing or key.
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If you are in doubt about which direction the distributor rotates, the vacuum advance always points the opposite direction. In other words to advance the timing it pulls the points plate the opposite direction of rotation.
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1 minute ago, kramaton said:
Just be sure you are on #1 cylinder compression stroke for TDC. Exhaust stroke the piston will be all the way up also.
Good point. It won't matter for setting timing but you can check by seeing where the rotor points. If timing an engine from scratch you can remove the #1 spark plug, turn the engine until air wooshes out and you are on the compression stroke. Top of the compression stroke is when the plug fires.
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2 hours ago, InsideTrader said:
How do you feel about the timing method Ben Bruce aka First Born described above? It seems easy enough even I could do it.
Either method will work. My method will work even if you have the engine completely apart and have to time it from scratch. Requires no tools except a bit of stiff wire, wrench, and ciggy paper. Bruce's method will give the best performance and is easy to do if you have a vacuum gauge and IF the engine is close to begin with.
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4 hours ago, InsideTrader said:
I found a YouTube video of a guy with the same engine and his was hesitating exactly like mine is. They sounded identical. His was a timing issue. He adjusted the timing and solved his issue. I have never adjusted timing in my life other than on a diesel engine. I’ve YouTubed it and I know you loosen that screw and twist the distributor but I don’t understand timing light usage nor do I have one. I’ve also heard of people timing with a vacuum gauge but I don’t feel I have a really good understanding of that either. I’ve also heard horror stories of guys not timing correctly and either damaging their engine by firing way too soon or running the engine way too hot on the EGTs. So screwing with the timing makes me nervous. I was hoping it could be as simple as trial and error and just adjust it until it sounds like it’s running the best. But I haven’t seen any YouTube videos of guys doing that.
Chrysler built flatheads have a unique feature that makes timing a cinch. Look on the cylinder head, above the last cylinder, you will find a small pipe plug. If you unscrew this plug, there is a hole above the piston. Drop the point of a screwdriver down the hole and it will hit the piston. Now you can slowly turn the crankshaft until the piston is as high as it goes, that is called Top Dead Center. #6 and #1 piston rise and fall together so you have found the perfect position to set the timing.
Now you can pop the distributor cap off and connect a 12 volt test light across the points. Slowly turn the distributor until the light lights up. That means the points just opened. When the points open, the spark plug fires.
If you do not have a test light put a cigarette paper between the points and turn the distributor as you gently tug on the paper. When it slips free the points are open.
This method eliminates the crankshaft pointer and timing marks which on some cars, can slip out of place over the years.
You can use a wire in place of a screwdriver but bend a loop in the top so it can't fall into the cylinder.
What I described is the factory setting of TDC or Top Dead Center. If you feel ambitious you can give it a little extra advance for better power and performance. This is where the vacuum gauge comes in.
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1 hour ago, 1939_Buick said:
From a private message InsiderTrader sent me. Others will know more and be able to answer
1 hour ago, 1939_Buick said:can I ask you a question about the vacuum advance? The distributor side of that vacuum line has what looks like electrical tape around it. I have also noticed a leaking air sound that I didn't think too much of until your post. Is it possible I have a vacuum leak in that line someone tried to fix with tape? And can I simply take that line to an auto parts store and get a new one to replace it? Is it that simple?
I wouldn't put anything past the bird who put in those spark plugs and installed that alternator. The rubber hose from the carb to the distributor is a standard item you can buy by the foot at any auto parts store. Suggest you take the old one off and buy a new one.
If you want to get icky, the 1952 Dodge had a solid steel line. By 1961 most cars were using a rubber hose. If they put the newer carb and distributor on the old engine, it would explain the rubber hose. If it is a mixture of parts it could be a home made lash up.
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When your engine was new compression was about 120 and oil pressure 45. What you have now is a well worn 72 year old engine. The amazing thing about Chrysler built flatheads, is their ability to keep running in an advanced state of decay without knocks or bangs, without making a fuss of any kind. They just get slower, hard to start, and burn more oil and gas.
If that motor was in a car you planned to drive from coast to coast, or use for every day commuting I would suggest you plan on a rebuild. Not right away but in the near future.
In your case it will probably last as long as you want it to and if it doesn't, you haven't lost anything. So I would suggest you change oil, check points and plugs and reset to factory specs, adjust carb and let it go at that. A little heavier oil might curb oil burning a bit but don't go too heavy, 15W40 is fine. The main thing is it should have oil in the crankcase, don't let it run dry.
One little odd fact no one has mentioned. Your tug was made in 1961, two years after they stopped putting those engines in cars. By that time they were only available as industrial and marine engines, and in some heavy trucks and military vehicles.
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Maybe they were some old airplane plugs they had lying around. Not hard to get the right plugs for a 52 Dodge, all the spark plug co's have them. They probably changed the part number a few times over the years. As a rule I prefer to use the OEM brand but it shouldn't make much difference which brand as long as they are the right part .
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More likely a leaky rear main seal on the engine. Or, is there a vent on top of the trans? If there is, and it is plugged up, can build up pressure and cause a leak.
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54 minutes ago, InsideTrader said:
Rusty, I am in further need of your wisdom. I pulled all of my spark plugs to check gap. They all needed to be closed a little bit but I got them all done except for one. The plug closest to the flywheel looked like it had been hit and the gap was almost completely closed. When I looked in the hole, it looked like it made contact with wherever is under it. The plugs that are in it are rv12yc champions. Those are not what you said they should be and I wonder if my plugs are too long. I was wondering if you had any thoughts on that.
Also, I don’t know how to ask this without sounding like an idiot but where in the heck to I put oil in this engine? Am I overlooking something obvious?
Easy question first. That big pipe on the left side of the engine by the distributor is the oil filler. Pull off the black cap and there you are.
There may be something in the back cylinder that is not supposed to be there. If you have an air compressor stick the hose in the spark plug hole and blow it around, see if anything comes out or seems to be blowing around. Hope it's not a broken valve or piston. The spark plug is over the valves so unless you have a broken valve spring it should not hit the plug.
OEM spark plugs were Autolite. Yours may be the Champion equivalent. The number I gave is probably obsolete.
Did you do a compression test?
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I would try an industrial supply house like McMaster Carr. It looks like a typical industrial type joint. Worst case, you might have to find a piece of rubber belt or an old tire and cut your own.
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Risk of living on a steep hill
in General Discussion
Posted
Last time this happened to me, I parked my pickup truck in the driveway of a house I was looking at to buy. The parking brake failed, the truck ran backwards down the drive, across the street, and into a grass boulevard about 50' wide beside a river, with a stone wall and a vertical drop of 10' to the river.
The truck coasted straight across the street then the wheel cut itself hard left, for no reason I could see, and the truck came to a halt parallel to the river half way across the boulevard.
I was in the house at the time so did not see the fun but thanks to my guardian angel, or something, no harm was done and I drove out unaided.