Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by 32Pontiac6

  1. So even a restored system with the restrictors of the proper flow rate causes drips? I wondered about that. Seems that a car that sold for a multiple of the average car price would not have that issue. Have you seen a flow restrictor like the one shown in the photo. My guess is the flow is from flat to pointed end but not positive.
  2. I removed the Bijur connection to the front spring shackles of my Packard tonight and came across what seems to be a mystery that my manuals can’t seem to solve. I removed what appears to be a flow restricted that is labeled DB5 in the attached photo. The one on the drivers side had the flat portion into the fitting in the spring shackle and the passenger side had the pointed side in. My guess is that the pointed side going into the shackle is correct but wanted to see what I can find out here. Also the number DB5 does not match anything in the Packard parts book. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  3. I have finished the strap replacement on the first of the Watson Stabilators. Additional photos are found at the Facebook page that shows the progress on this particular Packard. https://www.facebook.com/Packard5th/?modal=admin_todo_tour Feel free to check it out. Thanks for your help on this problem.
  4. Andy, Yes, I did get strap material. My original straps were closer to 1-9/16" and 3/16" thick. I was able to find 1-3/4" of the proper thickness and it seemed to work just fine. Thanks for responding.
  5. I thought I would share some photos of the Watson Stabilator I removed from the Packard. Please note the one photo that shows the tag from the 'Adjustment Inspector' who adjusted the shock when it was first installed in the car, I presume. Anybody see this before?
  6. Andy, Is the 1-1/2" strap 3/16" thick? That is what mine are. Actually they measure 1-9/16" wide but they may have flattened out 1/16" in 91 years.
  7. Thank you for the information. I will have to investigate. Plan to pull one of the ones with broken webbing and possibly take apart and see if webbing is the only thing needed. Can you help me with your car designation? I am still learning the Packard nomenclature. Don't know what DB Senior is. My understanding of cars they call '28 are Series 526 and 533 (Single Six) and 443's in Standard and Custom 8. Which is yours? Thanks again.
  8. Does anybody have any experience with rebuilding Watson Stabilators for a 526 Packard? Either somebody who does repair of the shocks or is a source of parts. I have not looked inside to see the condition of the mechanical components but there are two straps broken so I know those need to be replaced. Does anybody have a source for the shock webbing? I do have the Packard Service Manual and the shocks don't look that complicated. I also have the adjusting wrench. Any help would be appreciated.
  9. Hard to say exactly where the problem is. I have attached a couple of photos. The first one is looking down into the block with a snake camera. You can see the intermediate shaft and the slot that the distributor fits into. Actually looking at this shows wear on it and I should eventually have a new one machined. The second photo is what the shaft looks like provided to me a while back by Tinindian. You can see this is one that should probably be replaced because it has twisted. The slots are not parallel. But it does give you an idea of what is in there. Probably need to get the shaft out and shine a strong flashlight into the hole and see what the receiving end looks like on the pump. Also be careful to mark location of the shaft slot so that you don't have to play around with position when you put the distributor back in the block and it rotates as it meshes with the camshaft gear. While it does not have to be perfectly aligned with the male portion in the distributor end it has to be close so that it slips in. I use a long screwdriver to rotate the shaft into the right position to meet the bottom of the distributor when I put it back in. Also, photos of the end of the distributor where it mates into the intermediate shaft, the shaft, and if you can take a photo down the hole to the pump. Those might be helpful. You are not the first person to forget the set screw....
  10. I am assuming that you had the distributor out before and know about the set screw on the side of the block that you have to back off to remove the distributor, right?
  11. I will send an AMEN to Tinindian. The shaft was not needed when the distributor was moved to the side of the block for the new 8's in '33 and the new 6's in '35. The 1932 V-8 also had an intermediate shaft so I guess we can say all Pontiacs up to and including 1932 had them.
  12. Paul - I have also found that one of those ‘grabber’ tools works well in that area. I have used to pull the intermediate shaft out. Your symptoms really sound that that your problem is either the pin sheared or shaft broke. Did the engine make noise when pressure went to 0? How did you notice the low pressure sound or sight? Keep us updated.
  13. The thermometer is a very useful tool. I would check a few points with it: Radiator - point where water enters and point where cooler water comes out. What is the difference in temperature? Also check the temp of the inlet and outlet hose of the engine. How much difference is there? This will give you an idea if the radiator is doing it’s job taking heat out of the water but it is just seeing water that is too hot. The high vs low speed issue is intersting. It seem to me that it might imply a flow issue. Also does the Oakland have a water distribution tube in the block? I knw the splithead Pontiacs do. Not sure what this is worth but overheating cars can sure be a pain.
  14. I am the tech advisor for the Pontiac Oakland Club for 1932 Pontiacs. I would like to get your car on my list and if you are in California I would like to see the car. I would like to talk to you about your car and your two options. I will send you a private message.
  15. Hopefully this response will not add to any confusion. For 1932 there were not 'matching numbers' but a range of numbers on the engine, chassis, firewall, and also a plate on the main sill (passenger side) that had a four digit number that specified paint code. Firewall Plate The 32308, as was mentioned before, designates a Series 402 Model 32308 Sport Coupe. If this is the car I am thinking of from Craigslist in San Francisco it is also a Deluxe model. If so, it would have twin tail lights and the trim around the window sills on the doors are fancier. The Body Number is just a sequential number identifying the particular car. Plate Chassis - 744177-P6 This is the serial number for the car. The sequence here specifies a car made in Michigan. The range is 729001-P6 to 763983-P6 In '32 there were 1700 cars made in Oakland, CA at the old Durant Motors Plant and they had unique serial numbers with the format C-XXXX-P6. The V-8 cars ended in -P8 Engine Number The engine number is on a flat spot on the crankcase, driver side, just about the dipstick. It should be a number in the range of 835001to 879565. Paint Code Number Does the car have a small plate on the passenger side on the main floor sill with a 4 digit number? If it does we can determine if the blue color is original. There was some discussion on production numbers, how many were made, and how many are left. I have seen some variation in total production numbers for 1932. One thing that is not in question is that this was the worst year of production for Pontiac. They made both the Series 302 which was a V-8 and a Series 402 which was a 6. The numbers I use are based on Serial Numbers and for the 6 cyl total 36,673 and V-8 of 6,282 for a total of 42,955. You will see that the engine numbers total more than this. The engine was used in other vehicles made by GMC. I track all surviving '32 Pontiacs and my database is still being scrubbed for accuracy. The number that I am using for known cars of all body styles and engines is 75. I think this number is plus or minus 5 to 10 cars. It is difficult to keep track of cars as they go from owner to owner so there may be duplicates and there are also cars that pop up from time to time. Of the 75 about 20 are V-8's and about 55 are 6's. Of the 55 6's there are 15 Sport Coupes. I believe the numbers show that they are the most common surviving body style. My estimate is that 1-1.5 out of every 1000 6 cylinder cars has survived. The V-8's have a higher percentage that have survived. It is not possible to know exactly what the breakout of model numbers produced in 1932 because those records were destroyed in a fire in the 50's. Please let me know if you have any more questions on this car. If this is the car in California I would like to see it sometime. I think it is about 100 miles from my home. I have attached a photo of my '32 Deluxe Sport Coupe which may be a twin of this car.
  16. She's come a long way. Looking very good. You are right, too, they are a real kick to drive. You will enjoy. I know I enjoy driving mine.
  17. I have accumulated a fair amount of magazine auto ads over the years. In the antique store they generally show ads with a backing board and clear plastic sleeve. Does anybody have a source for these materials? Does anybody have a better method of storing magazine ads? Thanks, Rob
  18. This car is a 2711? Standard and not deluxe?
  19. When I rewired my '32 (same switch as '30) I made a diagram of the switch connections based on the three positions of the lighting switch. I have attached a photo of my notes. You will notice some numbers penciled in and they are not voltages but resistances I measured and are for my information and the particular switch in my car. Hopefully this helps. I will weigh in on the electric pump too. Tinindian's warning is very valid in my mind. I strongly think that electric pumps are not necessary in split head Pontiacs (at least from '28 on with mechanical pumps). The main complaint is that if the car has been sitting for a while it cranks more than people are comfortable with while the carb bowl is refilling. There is a very simple solution to this and that is to drive/start the car more often. Once the car is started and warmed up you only need to touch the starter to get those engines running. I just went from a non-original coil to one that is the original style in my 6-30B and found that using the selfie position of your smartphone was a great way to trace the wiring under the dash. Getting some photos of what is there and chasing the wiring without having to crawl under the dash saves time. You have to take quite a few photos to get all the detail in focus but it is much easier than the alternative methods. I have found that head under dash, butt on seat, and feet resting on the B pillar (no shoes of course) is the best yoga position for the Series 6-30B under dash work.🤪
  20. Clearly seems to be a Series 402 and Model 32301. I can see the firewall plate is still there and you can confirm by seeing the 32301 on the plate. I have attached a photo of the plate from my '32 Series 402 Model 32308 Sport Coupe. There is also a plate on the main sill on the drivers side of the car (about 1/2" x 2") that will have a 4 digit code that will tell the original paint color. I am the Tech Advisor for 1932 Pontiacs for the Pontiac Oakland Club and am happy to help in any way I can. Send me a private message and I will give you contact information. There are also Pontiac specific forums here: Pontiac and Oaklands Pontiac Flathead Owners You might also consider joining the Early Times Chapter of the Pontiac Oakland Club or Oakland Pontiac Worldwide which is a chapter of the Antique Automobile Association of America. I think you will find this to be a very fun car to drive. Where is the car located? Rob
  21. I guess I need to get my artist brush out now.....
  22. The starter for this engine is the same as for a 1930 Pontiac 6 (Delco Remy 714-R). I believe the motors are the same for many years but it is the 'Bendix' unit that changed from year to year. Is it that they don't have one at all? If they have one rebuilding is probably the best option and there are shops that do that. What part of the world would the service be needed? In either case you can searching eBay (sometimes they pop up), Hemmings for a new one or rebuild shop, Pontiac Oakland Club, Early Times Chapter of Pontiac Oakland Club (Speciality Chapter of Pontiac Oakland Club), and Oakland Pontiac Worldwide (chapter of AACA). Those club resources are excellent and it can connect you to a network of owners. You can also private message me. I may have some parts that could work for this car but not guarantees. I have not inventoried my current spares. This is a very rare car. You say roadster but it is probably a Convertable Coupe. I keep a registry of split head Pontiacs (1926-1932) and would like to add this car to my list.
  23. You are making good progress. Your car will be read to drive soon. So we may have a 2020 event out here in CA. We can take a family photo with your car, Tininidian's, my car and I think one more. When when the last time there been 4 - 30 Custom Sedans within touching distance?
  24. Stethoscope is a marvelous tool to narrow down the noise. I have used an inexpensive Harbor Freight one many times on my split head Pontiacs.
  • Create New...