Jump to content

95Cardinal

Members
  • Posts

    1,126
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Posts posted by 95Cardinal

  1. 6 hours ago, STEVE POLLARD said:

    Glenn - I just checked the log book, oil change / full tune up was done in the Fall of 2021, it's been driven 100 miles since. I'm down a quart - maybe a quart 1/2.... I don't see anything on the exhaust ( new exhaust was installed in Fall of 2021 as well) . Driving along, you don't smell anything in the cab, that's why I was surprise to hear about the motorist that pulled up next to me.... now that I think of it, on the drive home, normally people are riding my tail, but they were at least 10 car lengths behind me....

    @STEVE POLLARDThat's a LOT of oil consumption, more than can be expected due to some smoking at start-up.

     

    Glenn (@rocketraider) is correct; follow his advice: 

    "That's a lot in 100 miles. That's a lot in 1000 miles even for a big-block.

     

    Read the plugs to see if any are oil fouled. Past that sounds like time for a compression check and valve stem seals. Possibly worn valve guides.

     

    A leakdown test would show if there were ring problems but not everyone has a leakdown tester.

     

    Try this. On off chance some rings may be sticking from lack of use, change oil and substitute a quart of blue Rislone, Marvel Mystery Oil or even Dexron ATF for a quart of oil. Then drive it. Might free up rings where they can move in their lands as designed."

     

    Those plugs (especially 1 & 3) look like they're seeing a lot of oil...

     

    • Thanks 1
  2. Smoke at startup without any other negative symptoms usually means that your engine needs new valve stem seals.

     

    The parts are cheap (typically under $25 for an engine set).

     

    Installation requires removal of the rocker arm covers, holding the valve (usually with compressed air or cord) in the fully closed position while loosening the rocker arms , removing the valve spring retainers, valve springs and any remnants of the old seals. Then, you'll need to install the new seals (be sure to use the sleeve to protect the new seals from being cut or nicked during installation), then reinstalling the springs, retainers and rocker arms. Finally, set the valve lash and reinstall the rocker covers.

     

    • Like 2
    • Thanks 1
  3. Last Sunday we attended the annual fund-raiser car show for our local Historic Village. The morning weather was not great, but I had registered the 1910 Model 19,so we persevered.

    Here's a frame from the video my son-in-law took:

    PXL_20230806_114654695.TS_exported_24633.jpg.c137800ad4f2fbd429ddaa6f8b494281.jpg

    He used a sepia setting to enhance the period look.

    My grandchldren really enjoyed the ride...they were quite cozy and dry in the back seat. Me? Not so dry...

     

    This was taken later in the day, when the sun finally came out to play. 

    IMG_20230815_181035.jpg.c2eb69e9a49069cdbf373c5df794f193.jpg

    It was a lovely day!

     

    • Like 12
  4. On 7/27/2023 at 3:26 PM, dodge28 said:

    No need to buy a new  starter. I see on UTUBE how restorers take starters apart to to bone and rebuild them like brand new .The generator for my 28 DB was restored .  Everything rewound.  Check with Jason @ AER ,866 228 o218, 517 345 7272.  It will not hurt to get professional advice. 

     

    @Andy J I agree; there's probably something wrong with the starter.

    Jason IS great, but he's a long way from Mississippi and you would have to check with him to see if he could turn it around quickly enough to meet your 2 week window.

     

    BUT, you still might have a bad ground cable and/or starter solenoid.

    Negative battery post to starter body should have essentially 0 voltage drop. 0.23 volts indicates there is a problem in the ground connection and/or cable.

    Same with the drop across the solenoid.

     

    All the ideas above make sense; tight, new engine, potentially bad solenoid, internal starter issues creating excessive current draw.

    If you can't check the current draw when cranking, try pulling all the spark plugs and measure the torque required to turn over the engine by hand.

    In my experience, 30 to 45 lb.ft. of torque should turn over the rotating assembly.

    If it takes much more than that, the engine might be too tight.

  5. That short arm appears to be the same length as my 1933 Pontiac front shocks.

    As your catalog indicates, those shock bodies were used on many vehicles for a number of years.

    The internal valve specifications, check valve spring rates and other details are specific to the vehicle usage. 

    I think you will have to find the OEM part number to know exactly which of those vehicles are the correct application.

×
×
  • Create New...