MCHinson
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Posts posted by MCHinson
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3 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
I am really surprised no one commented on what the car is.
Looks like a 1938 Buick to me.
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For more information about jacks of this period, I recommend reading this old discussion:
https://forums.aaca.org/topic/336226-the-7-most-dangerous-unlucky-oem-jacks/
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5 hours ago, CChinn said:
Steve, thanks for your reply on the registration question and all of the other replies you have provided to questions from the membership on other threads on the forum. It’s greatly appreciated. Glad to hear you say that “renewing membership is a snap now”. If that is the case, I am still perplexed as to why my AACA chapter in NC asked all members to pay $70 in September for 2024 chapter, region and national renewal fees directly to the chapter and let the chapter submit individual renewal fees and registration to AACA HQ and for members to forgo the new online renewal process you have implemented at our national headquarters. As I stated in my earlier post on this thread (and I am sure you have read it) those fees and registration for our chapter members have not yet been submitted to AACA headquarters despite the cashing of my check in October. Perhaps this is a question better suited for my chapter &/or regional president and not the Executive Director, and I did direct the question earlier to the chapter president and have not received an answer other than to ignore the AACA renewal reminders that was sent to all chapter members.
In our chapter, we encourage our members to submit their National, NC Region, and Cape Fear Chapter dues in one payment to the Chapter Treasurer (me) because it allows our members to simply make one payment rather than three separate payments. Typically, we start collectiing dues in October and get most of them in November and December. This year, I started in September, as soon as National sent an email about dues renewals out to the membership. Despite starting in September, as of today, I still have some who have not yet renewed. We do of course, also tell members that they can pay their Region and National dues themselves and to alert the Chapter Treasurer that they have done so, but we do encourage them to submit the dues to the Chapter so we can be sure that their Region and National Dues are paid. We submit payments to the Region and to National in the same month that they are received. Typically, one batch of renewals in October, one in November, and usually a couple of batches in December. I would encourage your Chapter Treasurer to submit those Region and National dues in a timely manner. Done correctly, it is a simply way to make sure that all of the members remember to pay their National and Region dues, and it makes it easy for Chapter members to handle their dues with a single payment.
You should probably speak with your Chapter Treasurer about the delay in submission of dues. Your Chapter President probably does not typically get involved in that issue.
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3 hours ago, billbuickgs said:
Look closely at the front and rear bumpers .
I think both are on upside down , wide points are
suppose to be on the top not the bottom .
38 experts ????
Bill
Yes, the bumper bars are upside down. That is an easy quick fix. Based on what I see in the facebook markeplace photos, it looks like a fairly decent car at a reasonable price. If you like rare cars, the 1938 Model 67 is much more rare than the Trunkback Model 61.
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If you buy an original 1940 Buick jack and jack stands, please use them for display only. If I recall correctly, the 1940 Buick jack has often been described as the most dangerous Jack ever sold. The 1937 Jack was no great prize. The 1938 one was totall different and quite unsafe too, but not quite as dangerous as the 1940 one was. I am not sure about the 1939 one. Buick apparently kept redesigning their Jacks and I guess they eventually found a design that was safe to use, but I have no idea what year they finally achieved that.
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3 hours ago, 38Buick 80C said:
For giggles and perhaps some motivation I put the trim rings and hubcaps on the passenger side.
That said the wheels desperately need the pinstripes. I just don't think the car/wheels look at all right without them. I have some ideas I want to try on that.
The best way to do it would probably start by visiting this website: https://www.beugler.com/
I bought one, but to be honest, I included the tool with the purchase of my 1938 Century because I never got around to doing the pinstripes before I sold it. I am personallly a terrible painter and I just kept putting that job off.
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5 minutes ago, alsancle said:
Dave, you are 100% right. Hemmings has been worthless for at least 10 years and probably a lot longer. I canceled my subscription 15 years ago. Once in a while I see one and pick it up and I'm through it in under 5 minutes.
Not for me. I found my 1937 Buick Roadmaster Convertible Phaeton through a Hemmings Motor News ad in 2020. That was worth what I have paid in subscriptions for many years.
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Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. The most likely source for sidemount spare tire fenders for your car is probably Dave Tacheny. He sells 1936-1941 Buick parts. You can best reach him by calling 763-427-3460 between 4 and 7 pm Central. I would also suggest you check out the 36-38 Buick Club and consider joining:
Other members of the club also advertise parts for sale on a regular basis in the newsletter. Since you don't have enough posts here to send a private message, If you email me via the Contact the Webmaster link on the 36-38 Buick Club website, I will be happy to email you a free .pdf sample issue of the club newsletter.
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10 hours ago, suchan said:
How about giving us a peek at your 37-61?
It is a dependable driver. The old lacquer repaint has plenty of cracks and scratches. It looks good from 10-20 feet away, but is far from perfect looking. I have many more photos available that I can email to any potential buyer.
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2 hours ago, DAVE A said:
How do you solve this problem if caps can simply not be found?
Someone can cast reproductions using your good one as a sample.
3D printing might be another option. Probably neither of these two ideas are going to be as cheap as finding some original ones.
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While the current price on this car might have been a decent price about 5 years ago, there has a bit of a price slump post Covid and with the current economy. I think this one, in that condition, is not quite worth that price in today's market. If someone has $16,500 to spend on a nice driver quality 1937 Buick sedan, they should contact me about my 1937 Century Model 61. I don't really need to sell it, but I could use some more space in the garage and owning two 1937 Buicks, the Model 61 just does not get driven enough these days.
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It is designed to attach to the rear of the bumper, not the front. I am fairly sure it would attach to the 1936 Buick bumper just as well as it attaches to Chevrolet bumpers.
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1 hour ago, 58L-Y8 said:
Before we start, let's define the convertible sedan which gets confused with other open body styles such as the phaeton. It is a five-six passenger four door with roll-up windows and folding top designed to be completely weather tight when fully closed, completely open with windows down and top folded.
While I agree that roll-up windows typically are the textbook design element of a "Convertible Sedan" vs side curtains on a Phaeton, sometimes the manufacturers did not follow that definition. My 1937 Roadmaster Model 80C has roll-windows and removable B pillars but Buick called the car a Convertible Phaeton.
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1 hour ago, Jolly_John said:
I hate to be critical, but the mounting clips on the reproduction from Chevs of the 40's seem really crude. Just one guy's opinion, of course. John
i don't really disagree with you but I think they are designed to be utilitarian. When you mount them behind the bumper, only a small portion of the mounting brackets will be visible from the front and I doubt they stand out that much. The mounting brackets are not that much different from those used on many spotlights that clamp onto the bumper brackets and those don't really attract enough attention to stand out. Personally, I don't care for the appearance of the grille guard itself, but it is probably the best reasonably priced alternative for someone who does like the look of those types of grille guards..
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I don't know the history of my 1937 Buick Model 80C before 1971. I can only say that it was obviously not driven too much since its odometer mileage is only 58,000 miles in 86 years. That is probably an indicator that it was not used much as a daily driver. I seldom have the top up and I drive the car. One man can put the top up or down, but it does take about 20 minutes, so I generally put it up in December and put it back down in February. Since the weather has been nice, the top is still down and I may or may not even bother putting it up this year. The Convertible has much less headroom with the top up than a comparable sedan, so I don't drive it much with the top up.
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12 minutes ago, Tom Boehm said:
What did people use these cars for in the pre WWII era? Not all owners were dignitaries.
By the late 30's, I think that the majority of them probably were used as Parade cars or something similar when new. I have a 1937 Buick Roadmaster Model 80C Convertible Phaeton. In 1937, Buick produced only 1,040 Model 80C's out of a total production of 220,346 cars.
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28 minutes ago, Steve_Mack_CT said:
@MCHinson Hi Matt. Listed in Broad Brook CT a bit north of Hartford. New price today. 😊
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1010879893436044/?mibextid=dXMIcH
Pics look like our neck of the woods...
Thanks.
That interior looks a bit worse in those photos. I always worry about cars being "sold" in multiple geographic locations on the internet. Perhaps the Florida website listing is where the CT buyer bought it. I also forgot to mention earlier that whoever had the car repainted chose to paint the bumpers black rather than rechroming them, another red flag to me. I think the price is very optimistic, but it is interesting, possibly a little more interesting if it had just been left as an original black "survivor" hearse.
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6 hours ago, Steve_Mack_CT said:
Car is for sale here in CT. Good to see the seller is open on price as I think the current listing at $38k is somewhat optomistic but it is an interesting car. Few of these seem to show up in nice condition.
I a bit confused by your comment. The link that I found it on showed it to be in Florida with no price listed. If it is for sale in CT, can you post a link to it?
I sort of like it, being a Pre-War Buick guy who also spent time on a rescue squad many years ago and who has actually owned and driven a hearse.
From what I see, it was most likely built by Flxible as a hearse, or possibly a combination car to be used as both. The "Rescue" labels are not period correct to the vehcle. The black sidemount cover would have been on a black car originally, so the car's color was probably changed when it was decided to semi-restore it as an ambulance. The exposed siren was not designed for outside mounting, it would have been somewhere in the engine compartment if original to 1938. Sirens designed for exterior mounting would have been much more decorative and all chrome. The sealed beam conversion of the headlights is also not that unusual, but not period correct. That is the first thing that I would change if I owned the car. My best guess is that it was a well preserved low mileage hearse that was repainted and accessorized to attempt to convert it into an ambulance by someone who wanted an old ambulance that is a bit more socially acceptable to most people than an old hearse would be. The 1961 hearse that I previously owned was repainted from it's original black color to be used as a backup ambulance by a Rescue Squad for a few years before I owned it in 1976, so this one is certainly not the first one to have a color change to turn it into an ambulance.
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A similar aftermarket one is available: https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/42176/GuardFront_Grille_Accessory.html
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14 hours ago, maok said:
I think you mean parallel, not series.
Most 6 volt cars can be converted to 12 volts fairly easily, competent auto electrician or knowledgeable person can do it.
Better to do a complete conversion to 12volts than what is proposed above. Yes, some items may need more attention, ie. fuel gauge, there are simple solutions for them.
You are correct. I was focusing too much on the proposed solution and simply typed that in error. I will edit the typo. Thanks.
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On 12/11/2023 at 8:57 PM, Skidplate said:
Now I've said it, and let the shouting begin. Cheers
That is a very complicated solution to a problem that does not exist. It is much easier to simply repair what is wrong with the system than to try to redesign the system. A 6 volt battery will start a properly maintained 6 volt car without any problems.
As long as you have all of the original components in good repair and all of the wiring connections clean and tight, any good single 6 volt battery will work fine in a 6 volt system as the original engineers designed it. I personally use two Optima batteries in parallel just because I like to be able to have plenty of battery capacity to be able to run the original tube type radio for hours at car shows, which is not a normal use that was anticipated by the original engineers.
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This doesn't answer the original question about how it looks in the engine bay, since the battery is mounted under the seat on a 1937 Buick, but on my 1937 Roadmaster I have two Optimas wired in parallel. I have nice heavy duty cables on them. They provide more power than needed but I use two of them because I like to use the original tube type radio (which draws quite a bit of current) when parked at shows. I have 40's tunes downloaded onto an ipod and use a small "Micromitter" AM transmitter to send tunes to the radio. I don't play the music obnoxiously loud but people really like to hear period music while admiring the car. I can leave the car parked with the radio on for several hours at a show and the car still starts just fine. When I get home, I use a charger to top off the batteries so the car is ready for the next show.
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I think you will be fairly safe ordering one from Ebay that is listed for a 1997 Riviera. Here is one example, there are lots of them listed from China that are probably cheaper, and will probably work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204556323295?fits=Year%3A1997|Model%3ARiviera|Make%3ABuick&hash=item2fa081c9df:g:8Z8AAOSw7vplY~fr&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8H4TnFbou1lCTe0OOUJG0QhSbUhUY96eg%2BQUuZY5g2Ux%2ByvTdD7dR4e4JUpEe%2BuoTAGg1mqYWzl6DZViABnRbgjFIpzGXp%2BsBfMqCJMOquhzp0h22WuTOqDBew7tZGErEyYcbrcevmyU8gFRIoQhOU%2FxEe7tkb4KHSFCNJXc7X9gqGmZd7gkkuegDUuE9W1sHJ7KZiAEQqFrLTf9TV4C0atfmxD1UkeoXN9bxHWRSv0pC4CcvUeKu%2FS3ij4zjbI5K0uVuzbt2woKFi17OPTghf9yYluSB%2B5ogfDEGbVfR3RXNF57b%2By5HNRYFrCnv06MAQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8i24_SIYw
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The 1939 Transmission is a one year only design. The transmission is shifted by cables that can be a bit tricky to work on. I don't know that much about it, but others on this site, especially in the Pre-War Buick section of the forum, can certainly help. Where are you located? Hopefully there will be a Pre-War Buick guy near you who can help in person.
How to test a ignition condenser
in General Discussion
Posted
I will let Bloo or someone else with more technical training explain why, but...
No, You are wrong. The condenser is the cheapest, easiest to change and most likely cause for a failure in the ignition circuit. Personal experience tells me that if it quits firing, try changing the condenser and you have a good chance of having fixed the problem. I once did a tune up on a 1937 Buick and it would not run. I removed the "new out of the package" imported condenser and reinstalled the old condensor and the car would run again.