carbdoc

Thanks, Dennis!

Dennis, I had the same thought, but I have looked at the enrichment valve incorporated into the air valve (which is located off-center on this GL4P) and I can find no way that the pictured object will "fit into that equation". I have scoured all of the Rayfield literature that I have (which isn't much) and can find nothing resembling it. I remove a lot of pressed-in fittings from many different carburetors, but I have no memory of removing this one from the Rayfield; I'm stumped. Jeff

Yes, about 1/8" with the loose "Mystery Washer" captive inside of it. The washer has the same diameter hole in the center so I am officially baffled . . .

😅 No, that would have "red-flagged" me. If it got into the "parts stream" incorrectly, I'm betting that I somehow managed to accidentally "deposit" it in there. It's just weird that I would have anything that I don't recognize as a carburetor part just "laying around" the shop . . . Jeff

I am currently working on a 1922 national V-12 Rayfield GL4P bronze carburetor. I have worked on plenty of Rayfields, but I have never noticed that they contained a part such as the one pictured. Moreover, I can't recall removing this part from the carburetor nor can I find it in the numerous reference photos that I took before and during disassembly. Perhaps it doesn't belong to this carburetor and somehow got intermingled with its parts? It happens rarely, but it is possible . . . however, I don't recall ever seeing such a part in a Rayfield or any other carburetor before. It is mad of brass, a bit less than 1" in length, about 1/4" at the largest dimeter and it contains a mysterious brass "captive washer" which rattles around loose inside of it. It is cross-drilled at the center and has two diametrically-opposing slots cut into it at one end. I'm embarrassed to ask, but has anyone seen any such component in a Rayfield or any other carburetor before? Jeff

I need to know the orifice I.D. of the tiny flanged jet (circled in image below) which locates between the discharge tube and the diffusor in the air horn (top) of a 1932 Ford V-8 Detroit Lubricator Type 18 carburetor. The one in the carburetor that I am repairing is missing; I need the I.D. so that I can create a new one. I have searched online for this figure but so far I have found no results. Thanks Jeff Dreibus

Thanks, Wayne!

This is a real "carburetor nerd" question, so I don't expect everyone to know the answer; I just hope that someone does. I am restoring a 1930 Lincoln carburetor, a Stromberg O-3 single-bore. It has a manually-adjustable high-speed fuel mixture adjustment via a long, tapered screw. It also has a 1/4" threaded bore located downstream of the high-speed adjustment INTO which (based on my past experience) a fixed jet would SOMETIMES be installed. Its purpose was to limit over-enrichment by the adjustable high-speed jet (which has an orifice of about .093", far too much for any engine should anyone screw the adjustment out too far). No jet is present in that threaded bore, however. Does anyone know whether the carburetor for this application was supposed to have one or not? If so, what was its decimal size? I am unable to locate any printed info that will help me to make that determination. Jeff Dreibus

Here's the wrap-up report to this saga: I've got the choke reassembled! I had to modify a radial tension spring spring (that I had on hand) with the same diameter wire and bore to replace a broken spring, but the choke is now back together and I believe that it will work! Thanks to all who contributed to this effort! Jeff

Many thanks to MC and Gary! Jeff

EmTee, If you are addressing me regarding a search on the Buick forum, I haven't performed one. Do you have any suggestions should I decide to go there? Jeff

MCHinson, Thanks. I just checked and it is indeed an AA-2, it therefore must be for a model 60. I will edit my original post so as not to confuse anyone else. Please do post whatever you have that you believe might be relevant to this choke. EmTee, Thanks for the link! Yours differs slightly from the one that I am working on, but I believe that it is "close enough" to provide some insight. Jeff

Thanks, Bloo. Actually, I have rebuilt them to work properly in the long ago, but the memory how to do so has faded. Additionally, I think that someone has possibly "been into it" before and that is giving me a bit of a problem. Jeff

I am seeking technical information regarding the Delco-Remy automatic choke found on the Stormberg AA2 carburetor used on the 1937 Buick Model 60. I have performed this job before (albeit several years ago) but I don't recall having a problem with it. A photo of the choke (taken from the side, with the cover removed) is attached. Specifically, I would like to see an exploded view diagram, a reassembly sequence and/or a parts list. I am having difficulty understanding how two small radial springs and a lever work in conjunction with what I perceive to be the fast idle cam. One of the springs was broken when I started, so I had to guess as to its specifications; perhaps that is what is leading me astray. Jeff Dreibus

Thanks, Johan. I can see this update working if the hinge is sufficiently worn that it will "go over center" when the float bottoms in the bowl, but I inverted the bowl on the center "post" while testing (as I usually do) so that I could see what happens with the hinge when the float is fully open. No binding occurred. I may still try your suggestion, albeit with a lighter-weight material than steel. Jeff

Edinmass, Thanks for the reply. The test fluid is definitely coming out of the discharge nozzle and nowhere else. I have tested it by plugging the needle seat and applying vacuum to the fuel inlet. That would seem to rule out a cracked casting at the point of the inlet system. Using a new rectangular gasket and fiber washer each time, I have now resealed the nozzle to the main body twice (ditto the brass plug in the bottom of the nozzle). There is no wear in the hinge, and I have replaced the brass pins retaining it to the bracket (as I always do). It is definitely not going over-center as I have seen extremely worn hinges do. As others have suggested, I will try it without the needle pull clip and see how it goes. I will also try switching the floats between the two carburetors. I, too, used to fabricate my own parts for these carbs, but then I found that most of the Straight-Eight components seem to work without any problem . . . until now. Jeff

Thanks, Matt. Jeff

I am humbled that I must do this, but I need some (ahem) carburetor advice. I have restored the dual carburetors for a 1930 Cadillac V-16, but I cant get the right-hand carburetor to stop leadking. A little background about me: I have been building Cadillac (Johnson) carburetors (among many other brands) for over 30 years. I was too young and dumb to know what I was getting into back then, and I'm too old and stubborn to stop doing it now.So: I have restored a pair of Johnson Carburetors for a 1930 V-16 Cadillac . . . and I have encountered a problem with one of these carbs. The model number of the carburetor in question is R7-1017, which is stamped into the side of the mounting flange. When I apply the tiniest bit of fluid pressure to this carburetor (far less than 1 psi), the test fluid (odorless mineral spirits) gushes past the needle and seat, courses up through the discharge nozzle and runs out of the fixed air intake at the bottom in a small stream. In other words, the bowl floods.Yes, I am aware that the car uses a vacuum tank which applies only gravitational pressure to the carburetors . . . but, if a gentle squeeze on a test bottle is "too much pressure", then why does the left-hand carb not have this problem (along with the other updraft gravity-fed carburetors that I build?).Here is my checklist of things I have done to correct this, but to no avail:-- Used a total of three different needle and seat sets (with pull clips) supplied by Straight-Eight.-- Tested with vacuum between needle seated in seat and fuel inlet fitting. Tested good.-- Performed same test with needle seat plugged with latex plug in place of the needle. Tested good.-- Replaced float hinge pins with new 3/32" polished brass pins.-- Inspected factory articulated float hinge for wear and/or "going over center". Tested good.-- Replaced float with Nitrophyl reproduction from Straight-Eight and adjusted to slightly lower than 7/16" factory specification. Checked for any sort of binding by the float or its hinge within the bowl. None found, float is clearly moving from open to closed and binding with nothing within the bowl.-- Resealed discharge nozzle and plug in bottom of it twice.-- Thoroughly sealed bowl bottom gaskets and nut. No leakage from there, only from the discharge nozzle.-- You should be aware that I always tear-down the carburetors that I build to the least component (leaving "no stone unturned"), and then clean them thoroughly with Berryman's B-12 Chemtool carb cleaner. Before reassembly. These particular carburetors were restored cosmetically, so they received even closer attention.Has anyone else encountered such a situation and, if so, how did you address it? I am at a loss.Jeff Dreibus

Thanks, Tim. We had a great time at the S.E. Meet today.

I can't remember . . . ☹️ Jeff

I finally seem to be keeping them out with Bounce dryer sheets. Thanks for all of the suggestions! Jeff

Won't open.

Let's put it this way, John: I've never owned a vehicle that mice COULDN'T get into, and I suspect that no vehicle was ever built that CAN be made entirely mouse-proof.

Jack, Our cars are stored outdoors under a carport, so I think that storing them under plastic drop cloths would do more harm than good. Jeff

Mark, Thanks. The cars are a 1970 Chrysler 300 and a 1976 Oldsmobile Cutlass; that's a LOT of bedsheet . . . 😵 Jeff