gossp
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Posts posted by gossp
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35 minutes ago, steveinky said:
If you're interested in selling, I'm interested in buying! Of course that depends on price, location, and condition.
The OP has not logged in since the day the first post was placed.
@Cgarv12 this may prompt a response.
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If a clincher in the size desired is not available, don’t forget you can put a filler (usually a stiff rope) in the groove of the clincher rim and place a straight wall tire on the wheel. It has been done on many cars, even cars that see a lot of touring miles.
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Another thought, there are likely enough fake cars on a Stutz chassis out there that there should be a few loose correct bodies for the car shoved in a corner somewhere.
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7 minutes ago, 58L-Y8 said:
Only because its RHD...do the English style...
If going to the expense of a rebody, why leave it right hand drive? Even as I type that I don’t know why I or anyone would argue against the vandan plas body on a Stutz, it would be fantastic.
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19 minutes ago, GregLaR said:
I appreciate how nice this car is and the amount of work that it took to get it into this condition. Perhaps the $45 K price tag is the biggest hindrance. I would suspect that most vintage car buyers with $45K to spend, would prefer to buy a car that is a lot more user friendly than something like this. I mean no disrespect to the beass era collectors but a car with roll up windows, a heater, good brakes, realistic road speeds, etc. has to have a much broader appeal. These brass cars are probably more saleable to someone who can afford to let it sit in his garage until the perfect sunny day comes along. Less return on drive days vs. investment.
actually a buyer at 45k is either going to get something a little bit bigger with none of the refinements you listed, or something similarly sized but a couple years older and no front doors, an aesthetic difference that people, myself included, tend to like.
I very much so agree with Ed that Model T’s are where it is at for brass touring. Even the guys with big collections of big boy cars tend to show up on many tours in a model T. Ever try to get a locomobile stopped at the bottom mountain? A side note on that taking us back to the Lambert, friction drive cars can be put in reverse to aid in braking.... a 35 horse engine can provide a lot of braking.-
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https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/19101/lot/617/
Same car in 2011. $16k pre restoration.
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The Lambert is an interesting car for sure and there are no lack of people interested in it. Being Built in Indiana (where I live) and friction drive (I have a lot of Cartercar miles under my belt) this car really calls to me, but I am focused on finishing the brass car I have and getting a child through college that starts in less than a year.
Also, brass is still a small community and anyone looking at the car on BAT has already seen it and knows the price point the seller is after. Many people are scared of friction drive, so the unique system is not a selling point over a standard transmission. Most importantly, there is a lot of competition in the 40k neighborhood for brass era cars.
Getting back to the idea that there is a dwindling interest in brass cars: not a chance. There is a dwindling group of people with the financial resources to own several of them or to keep large numbers of them on the road. Lower prices would bring some people in, but they will never get low enough for the majority. Saying there is a lack of interest in brass is like saying there is a lack of interest in Model J’s because a dumpy one with issues sold for under a million and a half.
This Lambert will get bid up considerably from where it is now, and likely not sell, assuming a reserve north of 35k. If a price in the teens of thousands would actually buy the car... there would be quite a line. At the 11k, I will take it.... and figure out how to pay for it later. My guess on where the money should be: something hovering on top of 30k.
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56 minutes ago, 89tc said:
What's one of those worth (to sell) that needs work or a restoration? I'm thinking it would be impossible to find parts if they were needed.
Also, did someone say "wooden axle"??
yes, they have axles made of wood. These are obviously not drive axles.https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1910-brush-model-d/
This one sold in unknown mechanical condition with a presentable but old restoration a few months ago for $11,500. I watched the auction and thought the sales price was a bit low, but I don’t know the car or what issues it may have so it could have been all the money in the world.
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Wasn’t CM the 6 and CD the 8?
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Although I 100% agree with a shim not being a correct repair vs getting a manifold flat, I don’t think the manifold in question is out of acceptable tolerance. .005 is nothing with new crush gaskets being used.
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I would be concerned with some cleaners hurting plastic parts or staining the panel. Perhaps armor-all dash cleaner as the solvent and some compressed air as mentioned, to move it through the gap around the button.
To prevent something like this from happening again try taking your coffee with less cream and sugar.
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I have met George at Hershey and spoken with him a time or two via these forums. The man certainly loves and knows early vehicles and engines. My only regret about that simplicity is that it isn’t still driving around in Indiana as I may never get to see it down in Florida. I doubt this thread has gone unnoticed by him but just in case @George Albright
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Come on guys, they are only one decimal point off on this one...
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Kaiser hit infinity and it broke the whole system.
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I was finishing up the Christmas tree and thought a picture of this ornament would fit here.
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7 hours ago, Cgarv12 said:
Hi I've got a 1908 brush that has been sitting in my garage for a long time car will start but does not have much compression so it won't hardly move. Its in excellent condition and all is origanal except the seat was redone in the 80s. Curious where I should start with selling or if it is worth selling.
certainly worth selling and there will be plenty of interested people. The Brush is a fine little car, although not particularly valuable, enough were made and still exist for there to be a following with some knowledgeable people. I seem to recall there being some part of them that tends to not hold up (rear end or transmission... something)... creating a situation of there being a lot of running but not roadable Brush cars in existence. Wooden wheels, wooden axles, woodnt run.
If you want some armchair appraisals, post some images and more thorough description.
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Using the fact that you know as something that gets mentioned in the negotiation is fine. The seller will understand your lack of a desire to help him double up and it might make you seem more likely to walk... but I don’t think it should really impact what you are willing to pay. It is worth it to you or it isn’t.
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2 minutes ago, 1937hd45 said:
What is a Bravada, Google search turned up nothing.
oldsmobile badged small suv, s10 blazer size in the early form. -
Every single one of those cars will be available on Craigslist: “no low ball offers, I know what I got.”
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I would just make the box as rigid as you can and allow for some flex in the body mounts. It seems like a lot of frame flex happens on brass era through early 30’s vehicles with little harm to the body.
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I really need to stop looking at this.
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Not mine.
located in the hupp group.
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His 1908 NC runs great on it!
1910 Overland for sale on BaT
in "Not Mine" Automobiles For Sale
Posted
That seems about right. The overland is a very good performer and a quality car.