Aaron65

Never mind...I'm an idiot. Much of the adjustment comes at the hinge pillar. I haven't even moved that adjustment (but I did get the big screws loose...)...

OK, I've got a weird one...my driver's door is past the range of adjustment (I've run out of adjusting room on the hinge) and won't line up high enough in the back without bringing the top too far forward. The hinges aren't worn and the car doesn't seem like it's been in any wrecks or anything. Anyway, has anybody opened up the adjustment holes on the hinges a bit? I'm guessing the holes are 3/8"...I'm thinking of opening them up to 7/16" to give myself the room I need. The hinge is pretty substantial, so I'm pretty secure about doing this, but any tips/pointers/reinforcements would be nice. Thanks!

Yep that's what I'm talking about Bob...thanks...

Getting down to the end on putting my '53 back together after paint, but I forgot which door crank spring goes where...I have a few smaller springs and several larger ones. I have 2 cranks for the vent windows, 2 handles for the door releases, 2 cranks for the front windows and 2 cranks for the rear windows...any help would be appreciated! I'm talking about the springs that go behind the door panels where the window cranks go.

Getting down to the end on putting my '53 back together after paint, but I forgot which door crank spring goes where...I have a few smaller springs and several larger ones. I have 2 cranks for the vent windows, 2 handles for the door releases, 2 cranks for the front windows and 2 cranks for the rear windows...any help would be appreciated! I'm talking about the springs that go behind the door panels where the window cranks go.

Sounds good to me...as long as that filter is in a nice accessible spot, why not?

Eek...you may want to consider dropping that tank and cleaning it out...

The best part was that it was a '40 Plymouth! Still a cool show, even if cars aren't their forte...It's not like I've never overpaid for a car...*cough...Corvair...cough*

I'd almost look for a '53 Super/Roadmaster parts car. That way you've gor all the 12 volt items that were different too, plus a better radiator (if I'm not mistaken, they had a thicker core).

I say what's it hurt? If it works it works, if not, you're out some money but you spent time working on something you (probably) enjoy.

When that happened with mine, it turned out to be a bad fuel pump...nobody agreed with me, but I've been working around these things for awhile, and I rebuilt the fuel pump...problem solved. Must have been a check valve or something...it would spew gas out of the top of the carburetor. On the other hand, might you have your choke a bit too tight, making everything a bit too rich when you try to start it?

Prices of valve jobs depends on what else needs to be done. Oftentimes the exhaust valves are bad, and guides may need to be replaced. It seems like the last few I had done were around 800 dollars with parts and labor--me buying the parts. BUT, one of them was on a straight 8, which has more expensive parts than a nailhead. Good luck--maybe it's just the valves!

If you have good oil pressure, I'd leave the bearings alone. You may be too tempted to fix something that's not broken...not that I don't know how that goes! Good luck!

Joel, in addition to tightening the drain plugs, have you tried torquing all of the front pump cover nuts to 25 ft./lbs? You access them through the flexplate inspection shield area. If there are any loose, you'll lose a lot of fluid. I had a loose one that left a huge puddle every time I parked the car. After tightening them, it only left a dribble or two, like most Buicks!

Values vary widely based upon the model and condition...Before you fix it up, you should think about how badly you really want to fix up a car. Parts for these things are more expensive than some more popular models. Can you do the work yourself, like mechanical and paint? If you have to pay someone to paint the car and rebuild the engine, you will almost certainly be underwater on the car if you decide to sell it, or your profit margin will be slim. If you love 50s Buicks like I do and enjoy working on cars, then go for it. Parts are available and you have a lot of help on this webboard. Good luck either way. Post some pics for more feedback.

Thanks! I just ordered some by the foot...much cheaper!

Metro didn't have it on their website, but Bob's did, so I ordered it by the foot. Thanks!

Well, my '53's just about done with paint, and it looks great! Unfortunately, my door weatherstripping had to come off to do the jambs...and with all that old glue on there, I'll need to replace them...again. Unfortunately, they're $240 a set from Steele...has anybody used any weatherstripping alternatives? It's for a '53 Special Hardtop. Thanks! Aaron

Well, my '53's just about done with paint, and it looks great! Unfortunately, my door weatherstripping had to come off to do the jambs...and with all that old glue on there, I'll need to replace them...again. Unfortunately, they're $240 a set from Steele...has anybody used any weatherstripping alternatives? It's for a '53 Special Hardtop. Thanks! Aaron

Hydraulic lifter cars have oil passages in the ball studs that the solid lifter cars don't have...they have a horizontal passage to feed the lifters. You could pull one out to check...if the car has a stick, it's probably got solids. Dynaflows had Hydraulics.

Yeah, I bought it from some guy on ebay...it's a VHS, so I'd have no idea how to post it.

Thanks all! My shop guy has a buddy with a local junkyard that has the part, so hopefully it's the right one!

I have a video of them hot adjusting them with the engine running...this was for the '40 model year. Can you imagine how those guys' triceps, wrists, and hands must have hurt after an 8 hour shift?

Mack, I sent you a PM...

Thanks for the replies! The body shop is trying to get the hood to not hit the fenders before they paint the car, and the whole hood fit is a bit puzzling. This missing piece is just a question mark...looks like we may have a line on a used part locally. Thanks again!