John_Mereness
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Posts posted by John_Mereness
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13 minutes ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
I believe zddp came long after the last Duesenberg was built.
Ben
Not to be rude, though welcome to the World of foolishness if implying that ZDDP is unnecessary on anything flat tappet-ed. There was talk at the time too about distributor gears, oil pump gears, and .... - the primary focus was camshafts and tappets though. The Indiana CCCA membership got in on the problem early https://inrccca.org/product/classic-car-motor-oil/ via our membership having problems with their cars and we have a racing company that helped us (via quite a few research engineers involved too).
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1 minute ago, edinmass said:
My rule:
10k to take it apart, 25K to fix it, and 180 days to get it accomplished. Working on a fantastic P1 this week……..it’s like pulling teeth without novacaine.
Fabulous cars pretty much in every way when they are "right", but not user friendly in the repair department. The Whitworth thing adds an extra layer of fun too. There is also the "what does that tool for that look like exactly" ?
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On 12/30/2022 at 1:36 PM, Grimy said:
Grimy's Law of How Long Old Car Projects Take:
1. Assess how long the task should take, e.g., 2 hrs
2. Double the digit, now 4
3. Go to the next higher increment of time, now days
4. Result: What should take 2 hrs will take 4 days
You will rarely be disappointed.
My rule with the Rolls Royce PI was = A day to take it apart, a day to fix the problem, and a day to put it back together. Fiennes in England, Great Machinists, Great Project Managers, and Great Friends matched to not worrying about Costs generally saved the day.
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Most people have no clue the time some things take (and in actuality, I chalk it up myself to "that ill take longer than I think" and it turns out to take even longer than that). Sometimes, I am surprised and luck out, but there is always a balance of something that becomes the black hole of time.
The locking door handle on the Auburn is a good example - the reproduction (at umpteen dollars) was nice and technically a huge cost savings over my making a new one (even if I had paid myself like $5.00 hour) as a lot of parts and ..., but to get it to function perfectly on the car there was another 6 or so hours of on-off-on-off - file, grind - bend/tweak, and etc.
Have you every built up both sides of a firewall - it took countless people to do it the first time via manufacturing the cars matched to people on the assembly line ?
I am helping a shop with a Packard - for every 1 hour that I bill there is probably 3 to 4 unbilled and the bills still are quite high as it just takes a lot of time to get it "right" the first time.
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4 hours ago, George K said:
I have to say my favorite Duesenberg marine engined boat was the 1914 Disturber.
I saw one of the larger scale Miller blocks (probably a good equal to this Duesenberg) one day in Zakira's garage in Cincinanti - it had suffered from one catastrophic event after the next and I asked if restorable and the answer was "best to recast". It is poor design as a single unit, though as a complete engine it had its structural strength needed to do the job - obviously within limits though.
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For best results, you need to state the exact problem in your topic title "wanted 1954 ....." and then use care with scammers.
As a sidenote, I am wondering if an exhaust shop can help you.
And there is always a specific year/make Gu-Ru
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Hope everyone had a Merry Chrismas !!!
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17 hours ago, V16 said:
Hi John, thanks for asking. It has been a frustrating search and I am shocked by the lack of products available to the restorer in today's marketplace. There just does not seem to be anything available that would duplicate original choices offered in the earlier eras. That leaves one with the choice of using a non authentic fabric sourced thru a Jo-anne store or other retail vendor. These would not only appear to be incorrect but would probably not hold up to the rigors of automotive application. Hoping to hear from some other s about sources not yet found, Allen
I was afraid of that - once Bill Hirsch died and with all the Covid problems, the fabric situation has become very difficult.
Another one of the Model A Ford suppliers just closed their doors too so that takes more yardage off the shelf just a click away.
There are commercial upholstery firms such as Miami Corp in Cincinnati, OH https://www.miamicorp.com/
Perhaps call my upholsterer - he seems to know what is hiding in the woodwork Rick Davin @ Vintage Auto Trim
https://www.vintageautotrim.com/
Yardgoods are available here https://www.classtiqueupholstery.com/index.php/hardware-yard-goods
Perhaps push harder for Bill Hirsch to pony up their supplier name and have some bolts made.
Ask SMS again
Find David Coco on this AACA forum (perhaps Pierce Arrow may be the key word)
Try http://www.acmeautoheadlining.com/
And, do more posting in other spots on the forum.
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For 1929 Packard 640:
Still looking for an original running board molding in brass
A passenger front wheel brake mechanism that bridges from frame to brake drum backing plate
A Crank Hole Cover
The aluminum grommet for the speedometer to floorboard
A stoneguard and mounting hardware
4 wire wheel hub/dust covers.
John
John Mereness
Cincinnati, OH
john.mereness@cbws.com
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May I talk you into a photo of your car - sounds pretty cool !!!
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You are going to need to unwrap that - the difference between worthless and needle in haystack
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On 12/14/2022 at 7:40 PM, 34LaSalleClubSedan said:
Does anyone know if the family of the late Henry Yeska still deal with reproduction parts? If so, contact info. Thanks, Jim
He did have a son.
I would be interested in a reproduction Stoneguard for a 29-31
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Great car - needs some TLC and a touch of tweaking to the rear top bow(s) albeit see it is also headlinered inside (double the fun in a project) - worth it though !!!
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Wayne, on the fluke any chance for bumber bar mounting brackets for Pilot Rays for a 31/32/33 Auburn (ie the cap to hold on bumper bar is replaced by a pilot ray bracket) - a friend is looking for his 1931/1932.
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VERY STYLISH W/OUT SIDEMOUNTED SPARES !!!
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Here is my experience:
Too much fuel pressure (maybe should have a 1lb or 1.5lb as baseline to start from and adjust from there.
Needle annd/or seat is worn
Float is wrong weight via or repairs or leakage
Improper float height adjustment to properly shut off fuel
After this, then adjustment (and I have seen people drill out jets and such over time - causing issues)
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36 minutes ago, alsancle said:
Now we will have Ed chiming in about the ball bearings in the spring shackles.
Laughing !!!
Ed told me late in the game - there are a whole bunch more predecessors to Ed on the PA quality topic.
Sidenote: Ed is quite the Duesenberg advocate too and may just be one of the Keys of Keys to getting new owners behind the wheels.
Ed may also single handedly responsible for every single White that does not get stuffed into a dark corner.
Ed may also prove to be the savior of Stearns Knights (or any Knight engine) - something way out of sight out of mind.
And, guessing mid-30's Buick popularity may rise a little too
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You can also turn down in a lathe
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try restorations specialties and supplies - as them directly.
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Sidenote: A note from the Cadillac LaSalle Club lead to starting this page and my feeling was always that their club now just covers too broad a range of years and something for everyone turns into something not specific enough to match interests (and time just keeps watering it down more). Example: Someone with a 50's Cadillac probably does not want to read an article on rebuilding a 1928-1931 transmission and visa versa. When I did the 1939 LaSalle everyone said "join the Club" and one look at their publication and I could not possibly see how that was going to help me (I already knew the vendors from the 1936 restoration and eons of owning the 1941, and ....)
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As I mention often, we were criticized for having 30's cars when everyone in our local AACA was driving 20's and earlier cars, we were criticized for driving 40's car when people were touring with 30's cars, and when I decided to drive more 1930's cars the more AACA active locals were by then driving 50's and 60's cars - so I gave up (I now have a CCCA - Classic Car Club of America, ACD - Auburn Cord Duesenberg Club, and JCNA - Jaguar Driver's Club membership, plus periodically friends invite me to something AACA) - basically, when I go out on a tour I do not want to be the only one with something that no one has anything even remotely similar to. In all fairness it was a lot of fun 1974 to 1990's, but I want to be among the dozens with thirties cars - not solo. I also gave up on the Austin Healey Club as locally they seem to be on a mission to see what rate of speed they can go to in an effort to destroy their cars (not using them in the purpose of which they were intended), I have not given the MG groups locally a try, and ...
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In the big or small scheme of things - NOT THAT MANY CARS WIN AACA AWARDS, SO KEEP ASKING UNTIL YOU GET ALL YOUR ANSWERS (someone will recognize the car)
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In the big or small scheme of things - NOT THAT MANY CARS WIN AACA AwARDS, SO KEEP ASKING UNTIL YOU GET ALL YOUR ANSWERS (someone will recognize the car)
Rustoleum Heavy Duty Farm Impliment paint
in General Discussion
Posted
Try Rustolium "Rust Converter Primer" first