brasscarguy

Want to buy a brass Livingston style Vee radiator for a model t Ford. Any condition considered. thnx brasscarguy@comcast.net

WANTED: Title for 1955 Thunderbird. thnx brasscarguy@comcast.net

Looking to purchase title for 1955 Tbird. thnx, brasscarguy@comcast.net

WTB: Durant 4 cylinder motor. early to mid 20's. any condition any location. thnx, brasscaqrguy@comcast.net

Looking for a driveline overdrive conversion for model t Ford. Perhaps you have one you are not using and would like to sell it? thnx, brasscarguy@comcast.net

preferred unrestored fat man steering wheel for model t Ford. thnx, brasscarguy@comcast.net

Any brand 30X3-1/2 4 or 5 wire wheels hubs and nuts. brasscarguy@comcast.net

Peter, Your oiler is from a 1905 Cadillac. The oiler is pressure fed from the crankcase and has a preheat chamber on the underneath. The small plunger on the top is the shutoff valve that is opened by turning the ignition switch on. The bracket mounts on the motor. I believe it is 1905 only but check with Mike to verify. It is the exact oiler that was on my '05 model M Cadillac single cylinder. brasscarguy

Stu, I have a very nice original one. We used it on our big Stoddard for years, took it off when I sold the car. call me at 206-919-1949 (Seattle) brasscarguy@comcast.net

WTB: DURANT 4 cylinder connecting rods(Not Star). Early to mid 1920's. thnx, brasscarguy@comcast.net

I have tried to remove this post, as the wheels are sold, sorry, brasscarguy

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Does anyone have any information on a Winfield model "0" barrel throttle aluminum carburetor? I have one on my 1928 Chevrolet 4 cylinder sprint /dirt track car. The problem is it seems to load up on heavy acceleration and stumbles and wants to cut out. I just can not see the problem. Any ideas or help? thnx brasscarguy@comcast.net

I have a 1908 Reo 2 cylinder gentleman's roadster and tour it a lot. I used 50 wt non detergent Valvoline racing oil. I have toured with this car for 10 years with no issues. just sayin, brasscarguy

The old school way to "tighten" wood spokes, was to use a spoke jack and insert open ended spoke shims. The are similar to a metal washer with a opening to slide around the spoke nipple. The spoke jack is a steel taper to fit into the hub end of the spokes, then has a threaded expander on the fellow end. You kick the spoke away from the fellow leaving a gap to slide the spoke shim into. These shims came in various thicknesses . You install the shims 180 degrees apart working you way around the wheel. If you start at 12 o'clock then you go to 6 o'clock then 1 o'clock then 7 o'clock then 11 o'clock then 5 o'clock, then 3 o'clock then 9 o'clock, ending up at 10'oclock and finally 4 o'clock'. This keeps the wheel round and even. If the spoke nipples are worn you can add quick poly or an epoxy as you are adding the spoke shims. Jack the spokes and while they are pulled away from the fellow use a hypo needle available from any good wood working store and fill the area around the nipple then release the pressure and seat the spoke back to the fellow. Some sealer will ooze out just wipe off with a damp rag and let sit until the epoxy hardens. I suggest you keep the wheel jacked up off the ground after you have completed the shim installation and the fillers has cured. Then go on to the next wheel. I purchased stainless washers in various thicknesses from McMaster Carr and cut the opening to go around the nipple. Stainless will not rust or bleed out in wet weather such as we have here in the NW. just sayin' brasscarguy

does anyone own or have photos of an older poli form fiberglass bodied model t speedster. these were available 1970's thru 1980's. thnx, brasscarguy@comcast.net

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I have a collection of Auburn /Dayton dental drive wire wheels, hubs and wheel nuts for sale. I purchased these years ago for a project that never happened. Now its time to let someone have them that can actually use them. I can email photos if needed. brasscarguy@comcast.net

I acquired this collection of Dayton wire wheels hubs wheel nuts from another collector. I am not an Auburn expert so not sure what years these might fit.I no longer need these and want to sell everything I have in a lot. I will provide a complete inventory with photos via email. I will sell for cash or trade for early 20's/30's speed equipment. brasscarguy@comcast.net

Have a set of Dayton quick change wire wheels hubs and hub nuts. This is a collection of Auburn wheels and hubs I acquired from another collector a few years ago. I no longer need them and they would go perfectly with a 20's and 30's Speedsters or "Indy" cars. Photos by email if you want them. brasscarguy@comcast.net

Dodge did use Budd wire wheels along with others. If you could email me a photo of your rear hubs I can identify quickly thnx brasscarguy

Wanted Rear hubs for Budd wire wheels, condition not important. Will purchase outright or have extra front hubs , wheels and wheel nuts to trade. thnx, brasscarguy@Comcast.net

I am in need of a 4 cylinder Chevrolet overhead cam cylinder head. I understand Roof produced these in the 1920's. Any information or leads are greatly appreciated. I need to complete my 1920's Chevrolet sprint car restoration. thnx, brasscarguy

Need 4 cylinder 3 port cylinder head for Oldsmobile. Needed for restoration . thnx, brasscarguy@Comcast.com. 2h06-919-1949(Seattle)

WTB: 3 port 4 cylinder Oldsmobile head needed for restoration project. Any leads greatly appreciated. Thnx, brasscarguy(2h06-919-1949) Seattle