hchris
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Posts posted by hchris
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For what its worth, they still have a great following down under
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Sorry for the Delay in my reply. It is no insult to me. I appreciate the advice. How would you set the lower cams without a brake shoe setting tool? I have been told to set the cams with the arrows facing each other but these do not have an arrow.
Have a look at the Plymouth website (and others), the procedure for adjustment and links to homemade aligning tools are available. As Keiser says; absolute waste of time bleeding until you get the adjusting done
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At first it was noted when driving on the road, but not on a long trip, just from my home to a show a couple of miles away. Mechanic evaluated the problem and at first thought it was an electrical problem and made some checks and adjustments to the points and condenser. Ran fine for awhile but the problem came back again and again they checked the Distributor and made some adjustments, after checking the points and condenser and coil.
It was narrowed down to being a fuel problem. The carburetor appears to be OK and there is fuel getting to the carburetor. Fuel was found in the bowl. When the engine stalled again they were able to get it started again by using Ether and introducing it through the Air intake. The fuel system is not an electric system. It has the original gravity flow and Vacuum feed system. It does not sit down immediately and seems to run Ok until you put it under driving conditions. Today we had it running and when I drove it into the trailer for transport, again it stalled as I pulled it into the trailer.
We need to find out if there are re-build kits for the carburetor before we tear into the carb.
All good points from pete k, however I think I would be starting back a little further inthe fuel system. Seeing as how you are running on the vacuum feed system and the problem appears under load, I wonder if the the vac feed system is able to keep up the demand.
Unlike a positive pressure (mechanical or elec) pump the vac sytem draws fuel from the tank purely on the amount of vacuum available at the throttle, so if you have a tank feed restriction, vac leak or any problem within the vac tank the problem usually appears when the throttle is positioned for a high fuel demand; in other words whilst there may be enough in the vac tank for low power settings it cant keep up the pace when you put your foot down.
There is only one way to solve the problem, and that is to do a systematic inspection of all the components from the tank to the carb, perhaps simply start with the filler cap off just in case the cap vent is blocked and then keep moving forward.
Dont be fooled by seeing fuel in the carb when the engine is stopped, the question really is how much is in there when the engine is under load? oh and stalling whilst driving up the trailer ramp is a good indication that the carb bowl fuel level is low, possibly because there is not enough fuel from the vac feed sytem?
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Highly likely that you have a fuel supply problem but we need to know a bit more; as mentioned, are you running electric pump or vacuum feed sytem ? are you on the road when this happens, or as soon as you start up ? giving as much detail as possible makes it easier to evaluate.
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I have a 1958 corvette that I have been working on and finally got started after 18 years of sitting. I removed the heater and radiator hoses and found a lot of rust. Had the radiator repaired and am planning on a new water pump and thermostat. I soaked the thermostat housing in vinegar for 2 days and now no rust. Would I be able to put vinegar in the motor to clean the rust out of it? My radiator guy didn't seem to think it would be a problem but don't run it through the radiator. I still have the old water pump on the car.
I have always found that one of her stockings, in the upper radiator hose, works a treat catching any of the muck thats circulating; vinegar I would be concerned about particularly coming into contact with alloys.
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All hoses changed. except the steel ones. when the car is cold it pumps fine, when it gets to temp it stops pumping. when the filter gets empty, can rev the motor and the filter will fill again. Could it be something as simple as bad gas or water? This is not the only vehicle acting this way.
Sounds to me like you need to clean those steel lines out, I note in both posts this is the only thing you have not done. And as to the difference between hot and cold operations, consider that you may have a floating obstruction in the lines; if I was a betting man I would start with the tank end first.
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Have you considered using a vacuum guage to set timing rather than a timing light; the reason I ask is that I consider this a far more effective way of tuning the engine. The relevance of timing marks has been lost somewhat due to the burn characteristics of modern fuels, in addition as engines age so do the distributor/valve drive mechanisms which introduce variations in timing.
Most standard engines will perform best with a steady idle vac reading of 18 - 20 inches; you only need a fitting plugged into the inlet manifold to hook up a vac guage and then move the distrubutor around until you get a smooth steady idle at these numbers.
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Hi Everyone,
I own a 1929 Chrysler, model "75", and its distributor is a Delco-Remy model 659-B, what I believe is the original one. The car owners manual presents such distributor with two contact points. My car is operating very weel, no missing cylinder, but its distributor has only one contact point. When I open the distributor, I can easily see space for a second contact point, as you can see in the picture. I was told each contact point would deal with three cylinders, but as far I can listen well, all six cylinders are operating properly.
What is the purpose of such second contact point? If the car needs two, what malfunction occurs when using just one?
Thanks
JRA
1928 Chevrolet National, touring
1929 Chrysler "75", roadster
1951 Plymouth Cranbrook
1954 Willys Jeep CJ3B
Its been modified to make life easier with one set of points, a sensible way to go
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Try this trick.
Hook up a vacuum guage and adjust until you get the most vacuum then retard about 2 inches of mercury.
Works for me most times.
Jack M has the right idea, you are much better off with a vacuum guage to get the best ignition timing. Dont get too excited with the 4 degree issue as this really is not relevant with todays fuels, the burn time characteristics are vastly different from the fuels of 1936.
What you really need to achieve is a steady vac. gauge reading of 18 - 20 inches at idle, this is accomplished by moving the distributor base plate, with the engine running, just as you do with the timing light.
If you dont have a vac guage, timing by ear will get you close to the mark. Set the distributor so that you get an easy start and a smooth idle; take the car out on the road and get into top gear, then steadily accelerate, if the car pulls away readily without any hesitation or pinging then you are in the ballpark, if it pings you are too far advanced and need to back the distributor off a little.
The final outcome should result in best acceleration just before the onset of pinging.
Having reached a satisfactory setting, then have a look with the timing light so that if there is a next time you know where to set things up.
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The material we use down here is that used on conveyor belts, typically reinforced rubber with webbing interwoven; usually 1/2" to 3/8" in thickness.
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The ones I make, can be used to tweak the center tube ends before installing the hood, a little advise, if you are going to rechrome your center,fix the ends first, I sold a set to a guy in NC? and he called with the same problem ( hood slips out ) I told him you have to reshape the ends by inserting my repro's and twist until the clip/hinge end is perpindicular to the center tube he said it worked great unfutunatly he cracked the new chrome plating, hense, fix before you plate. I should have my setas done in 2 weeks,,,($100 per set plus shipping)
These work!!
Excellent !! if you would be so good as to PM me with availability and Aus shipping cost I would be grateful.
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Dodgy6 - thanks for the link & yes its a universal problem, cant help with the DA unfortunately.
1936 D2 - exactly the same problem here, are you using those new retainers ? we have tried massaging the ends without success; would be interested in those retainers if they work for you.
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Hi all anyone tried to repair the 2 piece hood hinge and particularly the end retainer pieces ?
Here in Aus we may not have the same as the repro pieces we see on ebay, would like to attempt a repair or be reassured that the ebay items will do the job.
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Sure looks 1925 from here, no front brakes, look at the upper surface of the right hand chassis rail just aft of the rear spring hangar, there you should find the serial number.
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Very nice find, as to parts I saw a radiator cap with winged gazelle a day or so ago they do come up now and then.
Dont just limit your search to 33 Chrysler, many components from 30 to 34 are interchangeable; also some of your Plymouths of the same era may be similar.
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Nothing at all there for your DA, Plymouth 4 was derived from the Maxwell and the 50/52/58 series Chryslers
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Boyles law - well done 5219 !!
The overall effect of fuel pressure loss and temperature rise are the reasons vapor lock occur, added to these laws of physics are the current properties of modern fuels; which by and large, are designed to run with high pressure fuel injection systems.
So best results are achieved by keeping the fuel as cool as possible (careful routing of fuel lines) and positive pressure in the feed lines, be it electric pumps and pressure regulators if needs be.
I doubt whether fuel filters on there own will cause vapor locks to occur but they may be the last straw cause if the rest of the supply line system is struggling due to low pressure / high temps.
Another thought is to use a higher octane rated fuel, as the vapor pressure rating will be also be higher lessening the probability of vapor lock.
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@ hchris, I've used a vacuum gauge, I can advance past the smoothest idle and get a higher reading but the engine picks up a "tremour" while idling at this point. Sounds like too much advance but no ping inder load and cranks good when hot. Do you think I should leave it where the idle is smoothest?
@ grant magrath, are you saying the timing marks will be in the correct position for one of the other cylinders? Some engines were made to be timed with a cylinder other than #1. Be easy enough to try, for sure. I'd thought of remarking the flywheel like you suggest, but there is such a long "dwell" period where the piston is stationery at TDC and the crank can swing a few degrees either way. Split the difference I guess.
Thanks to both of you! .... RonJ
Yes leave it where it is, sounds like you have it pretty close; as also mentioned ,because of the low compression rating of engines of this era you dont have to be too precise
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Another method of setting timing is to use a vacuum guage, dont know if you have a fitting where you can hook one up to the inlet manifold, but if so use this to find the highest stable vacuum indication ( approx. 20 inches) at idle as you move the distributor to and fro.
Failing this go back to your on the road method where you achieve both good idle and acceleration; no definitely dont go to pinging under load!!
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I would be thinking carb and probably accelerator pump issues. However with the timing just go and shift it and see if there is a change, these engines dont have to be precise with their timing 5 - 10 degrees either way will not cause any harm , rather the performance will be affected.
If you are not sure which way to move it for advance and retard take the distributor cap off, rotate the engine a little with starter or fan and watch whcih way the distributor rotor moves; moving the distributor body opposite rotor travel will advance timing and vice versa, I would start by advancing a little to see if there is an improvement, dont rotate the body more than 1/4 inch at a time.
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Sent you a pm
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thanks for the reply will have a go when i get a new battery. It does have the original coil in place but not used. but i do not believe it is the factory fitted one as the ign switch is not built in (may be different as its Holden bodied).
What would be a good sized battery?
Ian
Go to one of the tyre & battery places rather than the auto parts outlets, suitable 6volt batteries are commonly used here in forklifts etc and are readily available
You might also try contacting www.chryslerclubvic.org.au for local assistance
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OK sounds like you have covered most of it, did you ever establish whether you still had a spark when the engine got hot and quit ? i.e. spin the engine over with the high tension lead out of the distributor and see if you got a spark.
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The coil does not care what the timing is set at. Another battery is not going to help
Correct, neither the timing or battery are going to impact on the coil performance, the problem will exist somewhere between the ignition switch, distributor or coil.
What condition are the distributor points in, pitted or burnt ?
Need advice. Big time engine problem
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Dont want to scare you greatly but "clunk" does not sound good, particularly if you cant turn it over. I assume you cant turn it over with the crank handle ? if so I would not be turning it with the starter.
Perhaps try putting it in top gear and then gently rock the car back and forwards to see if the engine will rotate, failing this remove the starter and go through the same excercise; if you have no success with any of this I think it might be wise to remove the sump and head to see whats going on.
It is not unusual for engines that sit without being used for lengthy periods, to have the rings seize in the bore, I suspect this may have been your first problem