heidigirl

yes you can. do you have the power steering box as well as the pump? the 88 is a 2 barrel carburetor car and the super 88 is a 4 barrel. the super offered higher performance and upscale trim compared to the 88. actually, it is quicker than the 98, because they share the same engine combination but the 98 is bigger and heavier.

the listing is under 56 olds, 190007639098

there is a fan on ebay now, but i suppose you already about it.

there is a business in atlantic city nj, selling on ebay. user name is icylake.

you should find the engine number stamped on the machined surface of the block, common to the head, between the number one and three cylinders. difficult to read under the best of conditions and you may encounter some disassembly to see all of it.

i am not famaliar with the original appearance, but black oxide would certainly be a long lasting solution.

NOPE... show us what they look like and give us an idea how much you want for them.

the contacts are either rusty, too close or too far apart. the air gap is generally set at .007 to .010. i believe you will have to disassemble the horns to make any adjustments.

randy, re your earlier comment, i was answering a question that really wasn't asked, and i inadvertently hijacked your thread. my apology to you.

Mark, inspect the vacuum hose between the check valve and the treadle vac. if its wet, it is a sure sign that all is not well within the booster. heres what the manual says about testing a treadle vac: with the engine stopped, and the transmission in neutral, apply the brake several times to exhaust all of the vacuum in the system. depress the brake pedal, hold foot pressure on the pedal, and start the engine. if the vacuum system is operating, the pedal will tend to fall away under foot pressure, and less pressure will be required to hold the pedal in the applied position. if no action is felt, the vacuum system is not functioning. stop the engine and again exhaust all vacuum in the system. without starting the engine, depress the brake pedal and hold foot pressure on the pedal. if the pedal gradually falls away under foot pressure, the hydraulic system is leaking. if the brake pedal travels to within 1 inch of the toe board, the brake shoes require adjustment or relining. a faulty vacuum check valve can be tested by shutting off the engine and after waiting several minutes, applying the brakes. there should be sufficient vacuum reserve for several applications. with the pedal going to the floor (or almost): A brakes need adjustment B air in hydraulic system C hydraulic leak in lines or at the wheel cylinders D fluid reservoir needs refilling E cracked drums F power brake leakage at: 1 compensating valve or seal 2 hydraulic plunger seals 3 outlet fitting 4 sand hole or crack in the master cylinder there are any number of places that can rebuild these units. for what it is worth, Karps in Upland, Calif. did mine about 10 years ago, and i haven't had any problems with it. the cost was $200.00.

i suppose you could do a repair without applying heat of any kind to the area, but your description sounds as though this may be a structural location. the only way to be truly rid of rust is removing it back to solid clean metal. given the money and effort you have invested here, i would opt to weld in a patch panel and know the repair has been done properly. otherwise this is going to nag you for as long as you own the car.

first thing that comes to mind is a blown head gasket. does it smoke continually or just at start up and until the engine is warm?

webrodder.com did an article on this conversion not too long ago: go to tech articles and enter BRAKE in the search block. click on CUSTOM DISC BRAKE CONVERSION. their test mule is a 55 buick, but it is essentially what you need.

forgive me, but have i missed something in your post? are you buying or selling?

two piece driveshaft? it could be the intermediate bearing carrier. it could also be the rear wheel bearings. check the oil level in the rear end.