carbking
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Posts posted by carbking
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If the part will fit in my ultra-sonic cleaner; Dawn dishwater soap and water.
Jon.
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Dave - would suggest using steel tubing for the heat tube. Copper will dissipate the heat so quickly the choke may not function as desired.
Jon.
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Gasping and sputtering is indicative of either a lack of fuel or a lack of air. Since the air cleaner was off, probably a lack of fuel. Check the fuel filter. Also, and please no offense meant, is there fuel in the tank?
Jon.
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The missing needle is called a metering pin.
TWO DIFFERENT ONES WERE USED, DEPENDING ON WHICH BOWL, THE EARLY OR LATE (NOTHING about Marvels is directly interchangeable!)
173-503 was used on the early bowl, but not the later.
173-519 was used on the later bowl, but not the earlier.
There is also a metering pin jet deep in the bowl, a piece of packing, and of course the metering pin link which I believe connected to the linkage on the heat riser.
Jon.
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Bud - thanks. Interesting to note that Yellow Cab used Zenith carbs as original equipment during this time period; and the Zenith prints show the Yellow D-1 from 1924~1926 used the Continental 7U engine. Zenith does not list an original equipment carb for 1927 D1. Possibly the engine was changed at that time. Of course Yellow had merged with G.M.C. with John Hertz having some control and the 1927 cab was named Yellow Hertz.
Would be nice to have a program so we could identify the players
Jon.
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Wayne - the Continental 6Y used at least the following carburetors:
Stromberg - O-1, OA-1, OE-1
Zenith - ST4, T4X
I have factory documentation that these were used. Other manufacturers may also have been used, but I have no documentation on any other carbs for the 6Y.
Bud - I have no record of the 10U, but there was a 7Z.
Adding the 7U adds the Stromberg R-1 and Zenith SV4 to the list of carburetors used
Jon.
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Dave - the two areas I would check first would be to see if the starter switch has a vacuum issue, or if one of the gaskets on the idle circuit has split.
Jon.
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Trying to document original and aftermarket usage for these models of Schebler carburetors.
While I have lots of application data on these from the original Schebler manuals, it is impossible to tell from the Schebler manual if the carburetor was used as original equipment or aftermarket. I have cross-referenced many of these with Motors manual lists, original original equipment manuals, etc.; but still a long way from being complete.
For information on the type of data for which I am searching, please look at the thread I started on the Schebler model D.
Any original documentation would be greatly appreciated.
I don't need documentation on models S, T, and U. I have those virtually complete.
Jon.
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Trying to document the original and aftermarket usage of the Schebler model D carburetor.
Schebler numbered these carburetors, although the number is rarely on the carburetor (exceptions of which I am aware are Hart-Parr and John Deere). I have documentation as high as DX-331.
When seen in print, the number will be in the format DX-nnn; where the D should be read as model D, the X as number, and the nnn would be the actual number of the carburetor.
Thus the 1923 John Deere used a DX-298, which is read as Schebler model D number 298.
I have yet to see a Schebler manual that gives more than token space to the model D. The Schebler Master manual for cars and trucks lists about 11 or 12 model D's. I have found information about a few others in original farm equipment parts books.
I have not listed original applications which I know are correct, but I do not have the number. As an example, Buick used the Schebler model D on most models from 1908 through 1912, but I do not know the number. Other makes of early cars that I know used the Schebler model D are Economy, National, and Sears.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Especially appreciated would be information from factory parts manuals.
In the list below, chapter 4 is tractor, 5 is industrial, 7 is replacement (not original equipment).
Jon.
Make Year Model Carb make Carb number Type Chapter
Universal 1910 Replacement Schebler 10 D 7
Universal 1910 Replacement Schebler 13 D 7
Universal 1910 Replacement Schebler 18 D 7
Universal 1910 Replacement Schebler 24 D 7
Universal 1910 Replacement Schebler 27 D 7
Maxwell 1909 A, AA Schebler 40 D 7
Maxwell 1910 A, AA Schebler 40 D 7
Buick 1910 F Schebler 66 D 7
Buick 1903 F Schebler 66 D 7
Buick 1904 F Schebler 66 D 7
Buick 1905 F Schebler 66 D 7
Buick 1906 F Schebler 66 D 7
Buick 1907 F Schebler 66 D 7
Buick 1909 F Schebler 66 D 7
Buick 1908 F Schebler 66 D 7
I.H.C. 1909 1/2 ton Schebler 71 D 7
I.H.C. 1910 1/2 ton Schebler 71 D 7
I.H.C. 1911 1/2 ton Schebler 71 D 7
I.H.C. 1916 1/2 ton Schebler 71 D 7
I.H.C. 1915 1/2 ton Schebler 71 D 7
I.H.C. 1914 1/2 ton Schebler 71 D 7
I.H.C. 1913 1/2 ton Schebler 71 D 7
I.H.C. 1912 1/2 ton Schebler 71 D 7
Auburn 1911 Schebler 143 D 7
Auburn 1910 Schebler 143 D 7
American Farm 1922 Kinkade Schebler 275 D 4
American Farm 1922 Kinkade Schebler 275 D 4
American Farm 1921 Kinkade Schebler 275 D 4
Universal 1938 Replacement Schebler 291 D 7
Cushman Schebler 294 D 5
John Deere 1923 D (15-27) Schebler 298 D 4
John Deere 1924 D (15-27) Schebler 298 D 4
John Deere 1925 D Schebler 304 D 4
John Deere 1927 D Schebler 304 D 4
John Deere 1926 D Schebler 304 D 4
Friend EPA114 pump Schebler 308 D 5
Hart-Parr 1929 28-50 Schebler 318 D 4
Hart-Parr 1930 28-50 Schebler 318 D 4
Hart-Parr 1927 28-50 Schebler 318 D 4
Oliver 1930 Hart-Parr 28-50 Schebler 318 D 4
Hart-Parr 1926 28-50 Schebler 318 D 4
Hart-Parr 1928 28-50 Schebler 318 D 4
Oliver 1930 Hart-Parr 12-24 (H) Schebler 319 D 4
Hart-Parr 1930 12-24H Schebler 319 D 4
Hart-Parr 1926 12-24G Schebler 319 D 4
Hart-Parr 1928 12-24H Schebler 319 D 4
Hart-Parr 1927 12-24G Schebler 319 D 4
Hart-Parr 1929 12-24H Schebler 319 D 4
Hart-Parr 1927 12-24H Schebler 319 D 4
Hart-Parr 1928 18-36H Schebler 320 D 4
Hart-Parr 1929 18-36H Schebler 320 D 4
Oliver 1930 Hart-Parr 18-36 Schebler 320 D 4
Hart-Parr 1927 18-36H Schebler 320 D 4
Hart-Parr 1926 18-36G Schebler 320 D 4
Hart-Parr 1927 18-36G Schebler 320 D 4
Caterpillar 1938 Schebler 328 D 5
Universal 1938 Replacement Schebler 329 D 7
Universal 1938 Replacement Schebler 330 D 7
Gravely 1938 Schebler 331 D 5
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Bill did a nice job on comparing the Stromberg UU-2 and UUR-2; but would like to add the following information.
(1) For what the information is worth, the "R" in UUR-2 means revised.
(2) Bill mentioned the different size venturii. The Stromberg UU-2 and UUR-2 were used on other vehicles besides Studebaker and Pierce. Stromberg issued both the UU-2 and UUR-2 with 5 different venturi sizes. The venturi size would be selected based on the air flow requirement, then jets would be selected based on the venturi size and volumetric efficiency of the engine.
(3) Not mentioned in the article is that two different air horns were used on both the UU-2 and UUR-2. From memory, Pierce and the President used the larger air horn, and the smaller Studebaker used the smaller air horn. Again from memory, the O.D. of the large air horn is slightly less than 3 inches, while the smaller air horn is approximately 2 1/2 inches.
(4) Virtually all UU-2 and UUR-2 carbs that one sees for sale (few these days) are correct
for Pierce or Duesenberg (whether they are or not ); as obviously calling them such makes them worth more money! As usual, buyer beware!Jon.
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Jon
Do you have a preferred email? Thanks
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Username is carbqueen (my wife's email) at sbcglobal dot net. Replace the at and the dot with the appropriate items to get the email. We had to change the email from mine (carbking) to my wife's because of about 3500 spam daily. This is why I do not type out the exact address. The *&^%$#@ web spiders will pick it up.
Jon.
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Rusty - with no offense meant, Chrysler started using the hot air choke in 1951. The E9A1 the OP is discussing has Carter Climatic Control part number 170AA-181s which was superceded approximately April of 1951 with 170AA-312s.
The E7J3 and E7J4 used in 1950 did use the old Sisson choke.
Lars - I don't have a diagram of the 1951 Chrysler engine. In general, there would have been a metal tube with asbestos insulation connecting the fitting in the center of the Climatic Control with a fitting or a hole on the exhaust manifold.
If you cannot find the hole or fitting on the manifold, you can easily fabricate a "heat stove" to connect the pipe. This link will explain how:
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Heatstovefabrication.htm
I understand someone is currently reproducing these commercially, but shipping to Sweden might cost more than the part, and it is easily fabricated.
Jon.
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A drive line upgrade would be replacing the 3x2 with the original manifold and 4 barrel carburetor as you stated you still have all of the original parts; but it would lose the "eye candy" look. Or, if you wanted to spend the money AND have the eye candy, a set of dual quads would give you both an upgrade and eye candy.
Jon.
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Wayne - my apologies! I had no intention of causing a legal issue. Was simply trying to help others avoid the situation I now have.
Suffice to say: if you are comptemplating changes to your telephone service, make certain you understand the ramifications of the changes.
If you need more information, you may email me at carbqueen with the isp being sbcglobal dot net.
The email is not in its final form, as the reason I use my wife's email was the number of spams I was getting via the web spiders, but may be assembled from the information in the preceding line.
Again, Wayne, my apologies.
Jon.
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When considering octane, remember that Europe uses the RON method; different from the AKI used in the US and Canada.
The OP stated 95 octane. 95 RON would be approximately 89~91 AKI.
Jon.
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Willie - I guess I have been lucky, but have only run out of gas once in 52 years of driving, and that was in my driveway
. However, we do recommend the squeeze-bottle ANYTIME the carb has been removed (rebuilding, etc.) or the vehicle has sat over the winter. Much easier on the starter. It also can PREVENT future carb issues. Why? Because when the carb is empty, there is no down-line pressure on the fuel pump. Tests have clearly shown the fuel pump diaphragm can flex an extra few thousanths of an inch under no load conditions, which can cause some of the varnish build-up on an older pump to flake off, and head for the carburetor.As to the starting ether question: I am not recommending this because it is not my field, and I don't know; HOWEVER, I buy the stuff by the case, and use it in small engines all year round because of the evaporation of modern fuel. I also use it in my shop truck in the winter if the temperature is well below zero, as it fires quicker than gasoline. I have never had an issue, and because of the ether, never had to replace a starter because of excessive cranking. Again, not a recommendation, just personal experience.
Jon.
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Dynaflash - carbking's focus has always been on the manufacture of kits first, and restoration of carburetors second. Current kit demand is at a 40-year high! That either says something about our kits or something about the number of cars being restored. But because of the kit demand, we are no longer restoring carburetors.
The WD-0 was advanced for its time, but not advanced compared to the later WCD carbs. Two major issues exist, both of which should be taken care of by a competant carburetor rebuilder:
(1) Casting warpage - the bowl casting warps where it fits against the throttle body, and the air horn warps where it fits against the choke cover. The bowl warpage causes a poor seal with the idle circuit resulting in a poor idle. The air horn warpage causes a poor seal with the choke, resulting in the choke staying on too long and an over-rich mixture for too long a period of time. Warpage is corrected by the use of heat (an oven) and pressure (special fixtures to hold the castings). Thicker gaskets are NOT the answer, and in fact, will make the warpage worse!
(2) Metering rod adjustment (one of the MAJOR changes in the later WCD carbs) - correct adjustment of the metering rods REQUIRES a special tool! Often, special carburetor tools may be made or other items substituted as substituting a drill bit for a float lever gauge; but not the metering rod gauge. It is calibrated to 1 thousanth of an inch!. Failure to adjust the metering rods with the special tool is just asking for poor performance. And there is no reason not to use the tools, as they are available, and not expensive.
Incorrect reassembly of the starting switch can also cause idle issues, but this is a very straight-forward assembly (there is a picture in the shop manual)!
Correctly rebuilt, the WD-0 WILL function well; just not as well as the later WCD. The key to getting the WD-0 to function is NOT to shop for the cheapest rebuilder; rather to ask how the rebuilder handles the casting warpage and adjustment of the metering rods. If the rebuilder does not tell you the metering rod adjustment is a "need three hands and a special tool" adjustment, look for someone else!
Jon.
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A 1955 Buick has a down-draft carburetor with bowl vents.
Empty a squeeze-type mustard or ketchup bottle, wash well, dry, and then fill with gasoline.
Use the squeeze-spout of the bottle to fill the bowl(s) of the carburetor through the bowl vents.
As an aside, using this procedure any time one removes and replaces the carburetor will make for less stress on the starting motor.
Jon.
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See post #15. You do NOT want to connect the two carbs; you want to connect the two plenums.
Jon.
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Not probably the news you want, but the 1933 series 60 heat riser is unique; ALSO the heat tubes in the 1933 series 60 heat riser are NOT interchangeable with any other.
Specifications:
Outside diameter - 1 9/32 inch
Inside diameter - 1 15/64 inch
Length - 4 5/16 inches
Jon.
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Dave - both the choke valve screws and the throttle plate screws on the 440s are 3x48. The throttle plate screws change to 4x40 on later WD-0 carbs. And yes, I have these available.
Check the link and scroll down to T109-43 to see the "good trick" for removing the idle port rivet plugs.
http://www.thecarburetorshop.com/Carter_tools.htm
These can be made from a bar of steel if you have lots of time.
With no offense meant, draw a picture of how the throttle closes so you get the shaft and plates back in correctly. It is possible to install them incorrectly, but then the carb doesn't function correctly.
Jon.
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Post number 3 in the thread still applies.
Jon.
Survivor? What is it really?
in General Discussion
Posted
I wonder if Webster would publish a dictionary without the trademarked words, so us peons would not get in trouble for using these forbidden words.
Does it give an organization more credibility if the organization feels the necessity to trademark a common word???
Jon.