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Twitch

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    cost of paint job

    in Packard

    Posted

    Speaking of flame painting has anyone seen the new style of flames that actually look like fire instead of the old style we're all familiar with? On a black hot rod they are just awesome!

    59_chevy_passes.gif

    Packard T-shirt

    in Packard

    Posted

    Well one thing is that the image on the shirt is larger than any output that my HP printer can accomplish. And that is something lot of people wouldn't want to fool with. $15 sure ain't much anyhow considering T-shirts with any fancy-schmancy imaging. Hey I'm not buying one but someone might want one.

    Should I?

    in Packard

    Posted

    Turbopackman is right. There is a completely rebuilt straight 8 engine on Ebay right now and I have seen a new V-8 for sale on the web. The stuff is out there. The tranny could be tricky and expensive if it's an automatic. I know something modern does bolt up- I don't know which ones.

    And on the suspension worse scenario- if all else fails and the original is ruined beyond repair (not likely) you can go the airbag suspension route. These things work and function like the original only better since they actually can be dialed in for better handling perfornamce. And unless some Packard nut fanatic about laying on the ground looking under the car sees it, no one will ever know.

    <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

    cost of paint job

    in Packard

    Posted

    My only thought on anyone painting any car in comfort of their own home or whatnot is simply the fact that one had better have previous experience before swallowing hard and shooting the juice to a beloved car in a virgin spray-a-thon. It ain't like using Krylon on the patio chairs.

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    Packard Hawk on Barrett Jackson

    in Packard

    Posted

    Throughout my life I never considered it a Packard, always a Stude. This even before I bought my Packard. It was always a Hawk to me and there was nothing wrong with that as the designs were ahead of their times regardless of the nameplate. Sure the 53 Champion and earlier Hawks looked cleaner but This car seemed appropriate as a Studebaker. In the 60s nobody in my age group gave a hoot about Studebakers or Packabakers anyhow. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

    What would an orginal 56 235 straight six and

    in Chevrolet & GMC - General

    Posted

    You question sort of sounds as though you're wondering what the price is for the engine and tranny apart from the car. The answer there is very little. If you're thinking of putting in a more modern power train, fine. Just keep the the 6-banger and tranny in the garage since if you sell the car in future someone may want the originals.

    On the other hand the value of the car AND original power train dictates a considerably higher price from buyers looking for original condition.

    Go here and check out prices www.vmrintl.com/

    59_chevy_passes.gif

    cost of paint job

    in Packard

    Posted

    I am currently getting our 73 Z-28 done. Believe me it was crappy with about 4 coats on it= a lot of prep work. In Southern California we're blessed with lots of shops and high costs for most things.

    There is a shop here that does nothing but custom and "old cars" work that took it down to the naked metal, everything off and over about a 10 day period layed on primer and paint with rub out and wet sanding between coats until clear. $3500- can't touch this! A chain auto body/paint place, 1 Day, has a $1999 price for their so-called primo job and you can be sure they aren't going to be pampering it like my place.

    Is there any sort of school that teaches auto shop around you? Reason being- they could do the basic tough labor of removing the paint and preping a lot cheaper (or free) than a pro shop. THAT'S a big factor in quotes not just paint costs.

    Most importantly find a place that is not an revolving door insurance depot- hurry up in, hurry up out. I find all my "car places" by asking other satisfied people and the owners of the auto businesses I patronize. "Who does good exhaust stuff?" "Go see John at Aladdin Muffler." This sort of thing.

    $3500 is not really bad considering- yeah it's always more than we want to spend. Our cars are huge compared to most around today= lots more work.

    The $3000 "driver" paint job is the term these days with generally $7000 for a near show finish. Are you going to go with the original burgundy?

    Remember there's always Earl Schieb for about $400. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

    Kanter rebuilds

    in Packard

    Posted

    I may just keep the old one and find a rebuilder. It's been SO long since I had a generator rebuilt I have to search them out. It's $150 core charge to Kanter though. As for starters, the local auto parts chains can't be beat with 7 year/70,000 mile guarantees so that's where I've gotten them for many cars not this old and haven't rebuilt in ages.

    Yeah the old starter just acted as though it froze from the straining sound it made- wouldn't turn, a little smoke. It would turn by hand though. The bendix was as perfect as can be with every tooth pristine.

    The Kanter price of $209 is not too bad considering a modern car's equivilent part price. Hopefully this is one less problem to deal with in the furure. I just didn't know if their stuff was good or cheezy and would last just a couple thousand miles or something.

    There is just some stuff that I can see makes sense to buy when you find them for future. Like I just got a thermostat on Ebay for $7 that I don't need yet.

    PackardLogo.gif

    Kanter rebuilds

    in Packard

    Posted

    Yesterday I was piddling with my car and adjusting the carb so I killed the engine several times in a row. Anyhow the starter eventually quit afer several starts all in a short period. Solenoid was clicking but no go. I pulled it- 2 bolts to loosen from standing position <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />- and found a couple pieces of bright copper fall out of the brush access holes. Looked like slightly flattened piece of wire 1 1/4" long and another chunk. Coulda been from the windings, I dunno.

    So I called Kanter and they had one. I ordered a solenoid too. My question is how good are their rebuilt parts like starters, generators, distributors etc.?

    Seat belts

    in Technical

    Posted

    I just put lap belts in my original condition 50 Packard. The floor mounts are out of sight and if I want to I could shove them behind the seat cushion. They are not era-type but are functional. If was ever of a mind to have someone judge my car for originality- which I'm not- I'd shove them out of sight into the seat cushion. I had seat belts ever since my 63 Volvo and felt naked without them even as little as I drive the car. That's my 2¢

    I-Thank-You.gif

    Help me evaluate this car

    in Oldsmobile - General

    Posted

    Any car has a value equal to what someone is willing to pay for it. All I see is the factory pinch hose clamps have been replaced with the better aftermarket screw band type but the hoses have probably been replaced anyhow. If nothing else rubber deteriorates.

    Here's what the guide says.

    1977 OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS 350-170hp (8cyl-4V) AT

    (the condition #s are in $$)

    442 2dr Hardtop #5 400 #4 1175 #3 2750 #2 4850 #1 6400

    2dr Hardtop 350 975 2225 3925 5175

    Supreme 2dr Hardtop 400 1150 2675 4700 6225

    Supreme 4dr Sedan 325 750 1575 2850 4025

    4dr Sedan 300 675 1475 2675 3775

    Add:

    403-185hp (8cyl-4V) 10%

    Power windows 3%

    5spd manual 10%

    442 pkg 10%

    Bucket seats w/console 10%

    T-roof 15%

    Deduct:

    231-105hp (6cyl-1V) -20%

    260-110hp (8cyl-2V) -15%

    3spd manual transmission -10%

    No air conditioning -10%

    This is what #1 and #2 mean:

    Collector Car & Truck Market Guide

    Condition Guidelines

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    #1 Excellent: A close to perfect original or a very well restored vehicle. Generally a body-off restoration, but a well done body-on restoration that has been fully detailed may qualify. The vehicle is stunning to look at and any flaws are trivial and not readily apparent. Everything works as new. All equipment is original, NOS, or excellent quality reproductions. Note: This is NOT a 100 point trailered show car. See show car description in How to Use section.

    #2 Very Good: An extremely presentable vehicle showing minimal wear, or a well restored vehicle. Runs and drives smooth and tight. Needs no mechanical or cosmetic work. All areas (chassis not required, but may be) have been fully detailed. Beautiful to look at but clearly below a #1 vehicle.

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