Twitch
-
Posts
1,024 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Never
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Twitch
-
-
Yeah didn't they call the weak transmitters "flea power" or something like that?
Somebody pointed out a decent inverter a while back and I had accidently seen it on that site while looking for something else.
I've see the modern radios in the glove box on older cars but I hate to put it there. Not that have have lots of gloves to fill the glove box with but depending on the car, I like the under-seat place too. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />
Ok here's the link and I found another one too.
-
I thinking under the front seat would be good though I haven't measured. Pop the seat cushion and see what I mean. Once your seat is adjusted you don't move it anyhow. And there probably is enough space anyway if you do. Depends on what type of CD player you'd get too. Ones that hold at least 6 CDs would require lifting out the seat cushion occassionally to change them other wise it's there and invisible. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
-
A completely different approach could be this: Leave your original radio intact. 180 watt am/fm cd stereos with remotes are at the a-little-over-$100 mark now. Inverters for 12 v to 6 v are about the same price. Stick the music box out of sight and use the remote to play your tunes. My Packard radio was rebuilt by earlier owner but there is NOTHING on AM to listen to in most areas anyhow besides commercials and news! This would be the way I may go someday.
-
$500-1000 per wheel!!!
Gulp!! Wow that's in the Jay Leno price range. 
-
Tell you what. I'd like to buy those 59 Cad bullet tail lights for that price today. People in the custom industry still use them on cars and bikes!
-
It sure makes sense to make the car safe if you are going to actually drive it. I never plan to drive my 50 in the rain so I don't care but I can remember 2-speed, both slow, vacuum wipers on my 57 Olds. HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> My previous 58 Chevy had 3-speed electric.
-
A straight 30 will not hurt it. Try a good 10w30 and see if you get any useage though. Synthetics ought to work for you as well. That's just my thought on it.
-
Great! That's just great news!
-
Also depends whare you live. A straight 30 should be fine for warm-all-year climates on an engine with some wear and mileage on it. 10/30 will be comsumed at a greater weight than 30 in the older engines in warm climates.
-
Hey Frank- wanna go steady? Cause your a man after my heart! That's what the phase has always meant. Exactly as you said- factories increased bore and stroke for more power as the cheapest way to gain HP and torque. An gosh, nothing provides unlimited gobs of torque like a large displacement engine.
Nobody then or now wants to drive a car with peaky power quirks. And you are correct a supercharged or turbocharged engine produces more power with greater stresses on the core which leads to diminished engine life. Every WW 2 era aero engine applying artificial boost had blatant warnings and restrictions about wear, damage and failure in the pilot's manuals.
If we go to muscle car and other American performance car websites and forums the cadre of people (mostly guys under 30) own or seek to own heavy metal. There are many, many times more that don't mess with computers and fool around with "online" anything that are dedicated to maintaning their Chevelles with 454s or whatnot. Even the dudes with rice rockets hope to one day own an older muscle car as a goal. They're just passing through the buzz box phase as a means to an end.
Oh well, yet another person understands the old tried and true phrase without attempting to apply modern explanations to an original saying.
-
Just saw a new listing of 56 tail lights at $202 on Ebay with little time left. Holy cow! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />
-
Your 1st paragraph is exactly what my A/C shop's owners say. But supposedly the corrosion shouldn't be caused by freon since the lubricant allegedly keeps that from happening. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
-
Let's say you won the lottery or the car fairy granted you a bunch of wishes.
What 3 vehicles would you like to have if money were no object for purchase or maintenaince. Perhaps 3 is not enough for your fantasy list so write more as needed.
1. Ford GT-40 w/427 prepared by Holman & Moody
2. 1940 Ford Deluxe Coupe
3. 1957 Olds 98
-
Luckily the radiator A/C place I go to guarantees your freon R12 or 134a. That's right, if it leaks for any reason after they charge it, it is replaced free after any repair. I am not sure how long they guarantee it but I have had a car about 2 years later leak and they stood by it. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
-
Absolutely- if it's good for now, proceed. When I said to be careful I was thinking worse scenario. Lots of brake torque starts and high RPM stuff will soon tell on a half century old tranny. Hey I did that to my 58 with about 50,000 on it in 1964 and just the 235. I'm picturing myself with lots more power and my tranny- recipe for disaster.
I hope you drive a little more docile than I did, Joe. 
-
I like your idea Bill. There are some traditionalists who would faint if you told them but there ain't many here in Packard. Vintage air will no doubt use 134a. The thing is that R12 systems CAN be updated with 134a compressors for the use of 134a.
I asked my radiator and A/C gurus who do lots of classics as well as modern stuff. But if you have all the components of an original R12 system you don't HAVE to update. R12 is alive and well and A/C establishments have and use the stuff. Remember there were lots of R12 cars out there before the unwarranted purge by the greenies so A/C places have it in hand. The thing is you and I can't buy it in auto parts store anymore. The pros have it. My 73 Z-28 is the 1st year the Z-28 had air and it has 2 year old R12 in its veins.
I had a long discussion with one of the engineer/owners of my A/C place one day about R12 vs 134a and the bottom line I got was that R12 is a superior refrigerant to 134.
Packard8- as ve speak ve haf un squad of SS on ze vay to Norden Kalifornia to confiscate ze R12, ja?
-
Albert, you have a good point for a moderator. If it's just to handle the things you mention that's fine. Makes sense. If it's one of the other site moderators cruising in they'll probably be as PackardV8 says- some clubby mofo wanting to read the rules and discuss auto topics only. It actually SHOULD be someone like Brian says- almost no moderator at all. Someone to do forum board and calendar maintainence and little else. Less is more in this case.
-
I know re-engineered or at least re-built Powerglides can handle themselves. But Joe is talking about a 48 year old stock tranny!
-
I don't know if there's a HP limit but tread lightly. I had enough trouble with the Powerglide standing up to a 235 6 in my 58 Chevy with just 50,000 miles on it back in the 60s.
-
They're at what 50% blower ratio? That'd mean a 10,000RPM engine would turn the blower at 15,000RPM. The less nitro was supposed to slow cars but the crew chiefs actually like it down from the 90% as they get less detonation and smoother running going to the 1,320 foot mark with more cylinders lit. Several speed and ET records on several tracks were set once they got all balanced out on setups. I mean the entire field of 16 qualified for Pomona at like averages in the 4.50s!!! One year ago you'd be God with times like that.
Racing organizations throughout the world are a mystery as to why they do the things they do. They've kept engine formulas forever in some cases or changed them too often. They've changed rules to handicap winners and allowed loopholes to exploit in others.
-
Interesting retro-thread! I know this site's R&R has guidelines of the parent organization. But most on most sites' R&R forums people can go in and discuss, debate or just plain argue any topic as long as they are civil. It is inappropriate to get off on some jag about "power to the people" and whatnot in the tech questions or general forum. This is a universal rule in any web site's forums whatever their site theme is. In the R&R here is see quite a bit of subtle and often not so subtle degratory personal comments.
Being that I have written a large amount of PC game reviews and visited many forums to see feedback of fans on a particular game genre I have noticed a lot of forum commentary. All I'll say is that the flaming and borderline flaming that some of the people perpetrate in the R&R here would be dealt with even in a juvenile game website forum since the behavior doesn't even belong there.
Debating the attributes of a 289 engine over that of a 283 or whatnot is a worthwhile topic of a forum as long as everyone presents reasonable facts other than, "some people must be dumb @$%#&! if they don't know Fords are better." I rather enjoy the former of kicking ideas and points of view around. The latter is just childish and hateful.
I love to joke around probably more than the next guy. But kidding someone and veiled alluding to their canine parentage or sanity is another thing entirely.
Wayne is very fair fellow whom I respect and he holds the moderation line very strictly black and white. I don't think that only auto topics should be in the R&R. Tasteful jokes have been posted and enjoyed. But today with political correctness running rampant one can't have a lighthearted conversation without fear of someones nose getting out of joint.
As someone said, they quit reading a thread that doesn't interest them. Simple. That works.
-
I know you are looking for the less expensive way to go and I have no idea of what later frame will fit but what about aftermarket rolling chassis? I know you can expect to pay about $5-8,000 but it may be worth it once you consider all aspects. www.artmorrison.com has Chevy frames from 1935 to todays! www.cheviesofthe40s.com has all types of modern suspension units. There's more out there too.
PS don't mind the others if they get on your case for desiring to modify your car. Hey it's not like it's the last stock 41 Chevy on the planet though.
-
Off topic- Hey Dave- I assume you have a 58 Buick from the icon. Have any pics of it to post? That's my favorite 50's Buick. It was the best looking 1958 of all marques in my opinion.
-
Yep most of the sedans end up much better with Corvette motive power. Hehehe! Few but the most devoted Jag afficianado would care to bear the expense of rebuilding the XKE engine and it's attendant 19th century electrical system. If you look at what modified (dare I say hot rodded?) cars are going for these days they eclipse all but the more rare original and restored to stock cars.
I recall when I worked at <span style="font-style: italic">Road & Track</span> the owner survey comments that were sent in from Jag owners. OUCH!
Twin-Ultramatic
in Packard
Posted
Don't know any of the rest about the Ultramatic but we had a 1954 Mercury with a Merc-O-Matic. Saw a 55 recently and it had an auto trans but it wasn't in chrome letters as it was on the 54's body. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />