Twitch
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Posts posted by Twitch
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Is is possible to use one from a newer car and trim to fit? I don't know what the 56's actually looks like but ones I've had on more modern cars were all the same material except for size.
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Yeah the 63 could be narrower. That's why I mentioned having an agreement to be able to return the headers after a look-see on his 63.
Also, I'm wondering if the manifold is neearly touching the frame or just the inner fender. In the 65 the driver's side maniforld IS about touching the stereeing box. The right side has plenty of space though on a little more narrow car it could have the possibility of touching the frame. That said, it doesn't mean header tubes will not fit since they follow a different flow shape.
If they have been marketed again the old style Tri-Y header would be best. It has same general shape as the manifold but equal length tubes. Tri-Ys weren't manufactured for a long while but perhaps they are somewhere. If Sanderson makes a set see if your shop has them or can order them. If they have a web site it would be good to ask them.
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Holy crapola! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> I ain't that nostalgic!
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600cfm is max for sure. Is it a spread bore- smaller primaries than the secondaries? Those work real well. After you get headers in get 2 1/2- 3" exhaust pipes put on with a crossover tube that connects the 2 exhausts and forms like an 'H' and a low restriction muffler of your choice should top it off. Just hit a muffler shop that understands performance and they'll have everything to complete the exhausts.
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Thanks Albert, you sent me the x-reference on Excel before- very handy. I just received the 1952 Chilton Motor Age Flat Rate & Service Manual from an Ebay bid of $15. It's over 500 pages and just tons of stuff for cars from 1940-52. It's so good I could cry.
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Curious Randy- who is making them again?
These things can be seen in So.Cal. especially on the Latino kids late 30s-50s cars they pour their money into. The old units go for as much as $300 on Ebay. I'd spend $50-75 but not $300.
Ours worked marginally on trips to California from St. Louis in the 54 Merc. Crossing the desert it's pretty ineffective but in other climes it has its moments of use. Ahhh, nostalgia! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />
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Anyone familiar with the old Thermador car swamp coolers of the 50s? We had one on our 54 Mercury. You put water in and the ram-air effect passing through supposedly produced cool air. I see they're going for big bucks on Ebay these days.
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The primary tubes should be about 26-34" long on stock small block up to 327 cid and should be 1 5/8" diameter with 2 1/2-3 1/4" collectors as they actually scavenge better via a tad back pressure. They just run better. Smaller diameter long pipe do better than larger diameter short tubes.
The 350 with a stock hydralic cam does best with 1 3/4" X 36" tubes.
Just don't make the hot rodding mistake thinking bigger is better either in exhaust or intake, like carburation. You will not be pleased with an 800cfm carb on the 283. A 450cfm 4bbl. carb will produce superior air velocity for better throttle response and acceleration on the street. Even a 300cfm 2bbl. will perform very well. A big carb will give soggy performance on the street.
The thing that will give the most noticable "feel" of low end torque increase is an aluminum aftermarket intake manifold.
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Yes, the cross-reference is more meaningful than the original Packard numbers. At least that's what I care about on my 23rd series, whatpart can be substituted.
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All I can say is GEEZ!! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />
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I live in the greater LA area and all I can say is that I'll keep an eye out when I'm driving. It sure won't blend into the crowd.
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Geez, that's right, 10 mm, 14 mm plugs and so on have always been metric! I learned meters in the service easily. A meter is basically a yard plus 10% was how I translated it at first. Close enough for calling in fire support! I just wonder why everything else is non-meteric except displacement which is in liters in many publictions and ads. Hemmings Classic Car does NOT thank goodnes. And neither does any publication relating to American cars- like a magazine on Chevys. They're still 305, 350, 409, 454cid. A 3-liter is a 183cid engine for crying out loud!
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I got a 65 Nova in the process of going together this year which is without fenders and front end, but manifolds never touched the inner fender aprons when they were on. The problem is that while headers are basically the same different brands have little quirks for the same engine/car application. The only way to be sure is pull on manifold and buy a set of headers with the agreement that you can exchange or return if they don't fit.
And do NOT get any headers with tubes larger than 1 5/8" diameter. Larger is not better in this case. Trust me.
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Hahaha! Yeah if you mean the "Twitch' it's a moniker I got when I was in-country. I had the slightly nervious habit of letting my finger 'twitch' on the trigger guard when we were hunkered down.
Anyhow the site is good since it has thumbnails to scan through so you can see what you're interested in. Pic titles will not always define the image well. It is actually alt.binaries.pictures.autos
Since you collect pics also check out www.webshots.com since there are tons there that people upload from car shows, swap meets, parades, museums and more. Webshots has a free download screensaver/wallpaper program that is slick as snot on a doorknob too.
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If anyone likes to collect auto pics this site has many www.usenetbinaries.com/ It is free to sign up and people upload tons of old car images most fit for PC wallpaper or screensavers. Looks like there are a very few folks there with tens of thousands of pictures of every type of auto for the teens forward to more modern on their computers that share them with everyone.
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Perhaps out of them all the Pontiac GTO was the best from my perspective in the 1960s Midwest. It was the focal point of all other beefed up cars. Not so much that it was superior in all the performance areas, but that it epitomized the genre of muscle car. It was desirable, well advertised, a reasonable value and became a benchmark for subsequent types to be measured against in the era.
So while there were many "best" muscle cars I'd make a final vote for the Goat.
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I just wish we'd end up with a standard. I've spent a bit of time outside the US using metrics and have no problem with them at all. I really know it's liters per 100km but it just sounds more impossibly menacing as liter per km.
I remember the 7 liter Ford advertising came at a time when Henry Ford was beating Enzo Ferrari's butt in Gran Turisimo racing and I think that's what brought it on. However, the 390 was the 390 in all ads as was the 396 and 427 Chevrolets products. Olds and Buick never spoke in liters back then for sure. Diz, I think that when companies want to make something sound Euro-appealing they throw in the 'liter' for advertising purposes. Strange.
Stranger still was/is the metric/SAE bolt head mixture to be found on cars. My 78 had all SAE but by my 87 there were lots of metric, but not all. Now its mostle SAE but a few metrics remain. Sure it's a by-product of the 'world car' but one or the other would be nice, huh?
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This is unfair- there are too many. The fact that we had them at all makes them all winners. I may add more later.
Any Mopar with a 426
Firebird
Mustang Trans Am
Z-28
Any Ford or Chevy with a high performance 427
This is rather vague but there were just so many!
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Does anyone know why we still have the half-baked system that we are exposed to where we get liter-sized displacement and cubic inches depending on the advertisement? Since the US threw out the proposed switchover to the metric system for daily national commerce decades ago, why did liters remain pertaining to displacement in some conversation? It isn't that everyone reads Euro-focused car magazines is it? Kind of like being completely fluent in another language and using one word from your native language interjected in dialogue.
I've never heard anyone refer to the 409 as the 6.76. Would make a heck of Beach Boys song though. "She's real fine my six point seven six..."
Never found a way to find kilometers per liter of gas that would make sense to everyone either.
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Joe- My question for you is how come the Mustang II front suspension is used in so many projects replacing stock components on all types and ages of cars? I've seen it many times and wondered?
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Ray- no one understood you were simply asking for someone that might be familiar with your idea and you got unsolicited advice on what you shopuld be doing with your property and how you should spend your money!
Having a 2 ton bomb cruising 75MPH ain't no fun to panic stop with using 1937 brakes. My El Dorado has 4 wheel discs and it slows down real well from 75. I wouldn't want to try it in my stock Packard though.
For what it's worth I completely understand your situation and desire to modify ONE of your 20 cars and the logic behind it. Sorry most others got so bent out of shape. Hope you do stay around here cause your experience with such a vast variety of older vehicles is pretty valuable.
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Yeah we sure did when we were kids! I only have 2 of them but it made me wonder if anyone else knew of them from the days when the crown was on Standard Oil's pumps. This was 50s-60s St. Louis MO.
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It's all in the VIN which on the 64 is located in the left door jamb.
Chevrolet 1960-64
1st digit - Model year. (0) 1960, (1) 1961, (2) 1962, (3) 1963, (4) 1964
2nd and 3rd digit - Series. (11) Biscayne L6, (12) Biscayne V8, (13) Biscayne Fleetmaster L6 (1960-61) or Impala SS L6 (1964), (14) Biscayne Fleetmaster V8 (1960-61) or Impala SS V8 (1964), (15) Bel Air L6, (16) Bel Air V8, (17) Impala L6, (18) Impala V8
4th and 5th digits - Body style. (11) 2-door sedan, (15) 2-door wagon, (19) 4-door sedan, (21) 2-door Utility sedan, (35) 4-door wagon (6-passenger), (37) 2-door Sport coupe (bubble top), (39) 4-door Sport sedan, (45) 4-door wagon (9-passenger), (47) 2-door Sport coupe, (67) 2-door convertible, (69) 4-door sedan
6th digit - Assembly plant. (A) Atlanta, GA, (
Baltimore, MD, (F) Flint, MI, (G) Framingham, MA, (H) Fremont, CA, (J) Janesville, WI, (K) Kansas City, MO, (L) Los Angeles, CA, (N) Norwood, OH, (O) Oakland, CA, ® Arlington, TX, (S) St. Louis, MO, (T) Tarrytown, NY, (U) Southgate, CA, (W) Willow Run, MI, (Y) Wilmington, DELast 6 digits - Sequential production number.
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RGreen- in what area do you live in California? I'm in the 90280 area. Your're a guy who has more totally stock original cars than some folks that come here and still you get grief, huh?
I can totally understand looking for a modernized, comfortable, dependable unique cruiser that you can confidently drive vast distances. And yes the machines already done are for sale at $30,000++
Back in the day no one, I mean no one was restoring older cars to the Nth degree besides museums and a tiny handfull of folks. In the 50s-60s an "old" car was a 40 Ford for $125. 1940 Packards went for $3-500 max. No one referred to them as a classics. Unless it was expensive or rare to begin with no one was saving cars from the 20s or 30s to any degree either. Today a 15-20 year old Mercury Sable or anything else is by no means a classic or has much possibility of becoming a sought after vehicle until about 2050...perhaps. There are legions of cars that really can't be called hot rods since they are completely stock original by outward appearance with modern, dependable mechanicals under the skin.
Anyone living outside the Southwest has no idea we use our car A/Cs in January when the sum focuses on the auto glass. And Arizona, Nevada, New Mexico, west Texas, southern Utah and the California desert areas can get brutal in any season. As for discs- they are superior and safer in any application regardless of tire size.
Green- how anyone got off on a political rant about Californians is unknown. There's probably more 37 Buicks in California that are outwardly stock to be seen than in any state. You know in nice weather we see beaucoup older cars cruising around. Every weekend brings them out.
More late 30s cars have been saved by Latino kids here that pour tons of money into them than anywhere. You've seen them. They got chrome wheels and super plush interiors but are stock in all else. 30-40 years ago NOBODY wanted these cars for any price! $7000 paint jobs, $3000 wheels/tires, rebuilt/restored stock engines and mechanicals with $5000 interiors give a lot of weight toward an "atta boy, thanks for saving the vehicle," from most people.
When someone steps forward to bankroll a restoration on your Buick then they can have some say on what should be done. Your original question was simple whether anyone here had any experience in using modified, newer parts on older cars not asking permission from the Kabala of Klassics to modify the last existing 37 Buick.
Baltimore, MD, (F) Flint, MI, (G) Framingham, MA, (H) Fremont, CA, (J) Janesville, WI, (K) Kansas City, MO, (L) Los Angeles, CA, (N) Norwood, OH, (O) Oakland, CA, ® Arlington, TX, (S) St. Louis, MO, (T) Tarrytown, NY, (U) Southgate, CA, (W) Willow Run, MI, (Y) Wilmington, DE
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Found that site a few weeks ago when I was looking for info on something else related to "6 volt" and it popped up. Looks good and fairly reasonable.