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34LaSalleClubSedan
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Posts posted by 34LaSalleClubSedan
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Simple flat dash board. Might be better to disconnect the all gauges, remove the complete dash, and do the work on a bench.
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4 minutes ago, wayne sheldon said:
Those Delco switches were used on maybe a hundred medium and high end marques! In some cases, things like Cadillac and Lincoln used nearly identical switches with only the face and escutcheon being different. Most likely your Chandler switch will be interchangeable with more common cars like Buick. Swap the face plates, replace the handles, and go!
Delco made smaller switches for lesser marques as well. I don't know, but have been told the handles can interchange even with some of those.
From the pics, no face plate on the dash, so a non-factor stated about swapping face plates??? Your getting the new handles from Bob's Auto........ On the back side it should be a bakelite casting that slips into the pot metal casting where the wires attach for your lights and ignition etc. Inside that you should find 2 spring steel fingers that each have a ball bearing in between each spring steel and bakelite. So, get the old stumps ground down without damaging the bezels, the pot metal base, the parts inside it, or the bakelite, and work on the backside with the switch out of the dash.
You should be able to remove the bakelite back (3 screws or 4 ?) with the switch in the dash and remove the parts so you don't damage the insides when blindly grinding out the stumps. Just a after thought
That's what I had to do with my 25 Packard with a Delco Switch.
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The leather is actually pretty soft. I'm good with leather conditioners, thanks to the advise from Eddie M. & secret sauce the leather is not brittle. Of course, its 100 year old cow. Most of it is on the drivers side back. From sun, getting in and out, and the pulling of the leather down when trying to shoe horn into the cramp front cockpit has cause strain on the leather fiber (outside and in) as well as sweat/salt on the back of the drivers shirt actually putting a shine and some smooth wear on the surface for 100 years.
So, I would like to find the best way to glue ? the already couple tears in the leather so they don't get bigger and I see a few creases that are on the surface that will tear in the future.
I know father time always wins with leather, but trying to keep this unrestored survivor just that.
Thanks.....Jim
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Will send pics later this week when I get over to where the car is stored. Thanks
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In my 1925 Packard Roadster I have original upholstery.
Rumble seat leather is Mint. Bottom cushion in the front is excellent!!
Problem area is the front seat back cushion. 100 years of sweat and sun & in and out. It has vertical pleats about 4". Seams are OK and strong.
I have a few horizontal splits between the seams.
Any new, or old products that could seal of the tears and help prevent it from getting worse? Its a survivor car and would like to save it as long as possible.
Thanks...............Jim
Black leather.
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Be very careful removing the 2 broken stumps. Part, or all of the switch behind the dashboard that the switches fit into may also be pot metal
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I don't know if this product works
Mission:Restore
Whitewall Cleaner
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Hope you multi task & did Smores & Hot Dogs at the same time with the camp fire
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I use to own the 1930 Willy's Knight 66B Coupe. It appeared in a street scene parked car for about 10-15 seconds. Car is restored now. It had the wrong taillights and fender lights in the movie.
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Chrome appears OK. Its the wrong Street Rod paint job that's the problem. They even painted over the gas cap!!!
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5 hours ago, edinmass said:
Wish I owned a nice KB, and I would join you. Hundredth anniversary meats are always fantastic. Can you put up some information about it. I wasn’t aware it was going on but I’m certainly going to go. Thanks.
Eddie, I think the Hundredth anniversary "meat" will be "Well Done"
...Some "RARE", some Medium RARE.
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maybe a Franklin guy wood-would think that statement above
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Has anyone seen any pictures of the 1933 Cadillac V16 Aero Dynamic Coupe in the wild at the "Century of Progress" aka: 1933 Chicago Worlds Fair in the GM Building?
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1 hour ago, BobinVirginia said:
That’s what I was trying to figure out. I knew the body difference between the coupe and aero but, I didn’t know what made the 34 Fair car unique. I searched photos but didn’t know what details to look for. Of course all photo descriptions are accurate on image searches! 😂😂 In broad terms I knew the body type but not details of that specific car. Thank you for sharing that knowledge!
The "Century of Progress Chicago Worlds Fair" One off 1933 Cadillac Aero Dynamic Coupe was shown at the 1933 year of the Fair.
The Fair was extended the following year (summer till fall) of 1934. I don't know if the 1933 Aero Coupe was shown at the 1934 Century of Progress plus 1 year of 1934 or not??
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4 hours ago, Graham Man said:
The 34 above is a regular coupe, not a fast back Aero Dynamic Coupe
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4 hours ago, BobinVirginia said:
I could only find a 1933 but don’t know what differences to look for?
The picture above is the one and only 1933. It had the 4 tier bumpers.
The production 1934 Aero's had the Bi-Plane bumpers like the production 1934 LaSalle's and Cadillacs.
After 1934 the bumpers where flat one piece bumpers as on the 1935 Cad/LaS.
The 1933 Radiator shell looked more like a standard 1933 Cadillac.
The production Aero Dynamic Coupe (1934-37) radiator shell after the 1933 prototype looked like the 1934 LaSalle radiator shell. Tall and Narrow.
Observation: You can see how the 1934 Chrysler Airflow fast back coupe stole some design features. The bumpers and the fast back design.
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Kfle, I'm getting old and my hard drive is full. After thinking about this, I think it is a gas gauge remote for the dash. Like I said, I had one of these NOS in the box years ago. Tells how much gas you have in your tank with a remote float. 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, Full, and near empty.
Jim
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Hi Kfle:
Its a switch for an after market tail light, stop and go turn signal. Nothing to do with Cole. I had a NOS set just like it several years ago.
Good Luck , Jim
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Thanks Eddie II.
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I have a 5 gallon bucket of heavy lube:
Would it be OK to use this Lube in a 25 Packard 8 2nd series Tranny & Rear End? Not a hypoid drive axle rear end. Did not come out until the 1926 3rd series Packard.
My Packard rear end is not worm gear.
Ok to use this in the tranny and rear end? Below label on the Plastic 5 Gallon Bucket.
Philips 66 Hector Oil. ISO VG 460S
Steam Oil. MIL-L-1501SE Grade 6135
Agma Grade 7 Compounded
Worm Gear Lubricant
Thanks for any advise in advance. Jim
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The 2 vent doors on the front are missing
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1 hour ago, 1937hd45 said:
This one? Looks fantastic.
Bob
Very nice. Is this picture the D with a Packard Roadster Body????
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Thanks Graham Man. The levers are the correct ones in your second pic of the 22 Nash.
Replacement handles for 1920's DELCO pot-metal ignition & lighting switch combo ?
in General Discussion
Posted
The handles broke because the stumps inside as well as the pot metal housing on the back side of the dash board have swollen tight. They will not just push out. That's why best to remove the whole dash board and work on the back side IMHO