'53 Windsor

Hi everyone, What's the application and amperage for a voltage regulator with the following part #: Chrysler #1641510 or Auto-Lite # VBE-6201A 5K Also what is the amprage of a regulator Chrysler #1343573 or Auto-Lite VBE-6001A G10 I'm asking this because the 1343573 was the origional? on my '53 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe with a GGW-6008D generator. It started to screw up (Circut breaker wouldn't close, contacts were burned) so I got a supposed '53 chrysler volt. reg. off eBay, part numbers didn't match, and the car doesn't charge properly. Also, how can I fix my old regulator? Thanks for any suggestions, Tom

So THAT'S what that tube is. It isn't clogged. YES, I do have a factory shop manual. It covers '53-54 MoPars. The carb section isn't very detailed for my car. In fact, the manual says my car was made with an external automatic choke, but my carb has an integral "Carter Climatic Control." (Yes, it is the origional carb!) So I can't find much on adjusting the choke. Is there a better manual? Also, my manual doesn't have much on the flathead six 264.5ci as it does on the newer Chrysler, Dodge, and DeSoto V-8's. Thanks for the help. -Tom

Hi again, Sorry about the delay. Anyhow, I adjusted the choke to be a little leaner, and it seemed to help. This carburetor vent you mentioned, where is it located? That might be part of the problem.

Hey everyone, I have a '53 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe (L-6) that has trouble starting when the engine is hot. It is fine starting cold; fires right up. But when I try to start it in town, after leaving it for 20-30 minutes, it cranks and cranks and cranks, until finally firing up with difficulty. What is the problem? Is the choke confused? Does it get too hot when the coolant isn't running through? Thanks for any and all suggestions. -Tom

Never mind, I got it figured out. I was loosening the wrong bolts! -Tom

NEW STORY!!! I got the bolts connecting the driving plate to the turbine shaft of the torque converter off, but the clutch still won't come completely off. I can move it about 3/4" toward the back of the car, but then it just stops. I don't think it's binding or anything, because it feels springy. Any suggestions? Thanks, -Tom

Hi, I don't know if this is what you're asking, but here goes: The valves in a flathead (L-Head) engine are in the block, not the head. There are, as far as I am aware, no moving parts in the head. As for things to look out for, is your coolant drained from the block? It might be a good idea to do this if you don't want antifreeze blowing everywhere. Hope this helps. -Tom

Even if I lock up the engine, it won't to any good. The torque converter just spins. Thanks, -Tom

Hi everyone, I have a '53 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe that I am rebuilding the torque converter on. I pulled the tranny and clutch housing, but I can't get the clutch off. When I try to unscrew the bolts (tourque converter to driving plate), the clutch just rotates. I tried sticking a screwdriver in there, but it didn't work. I know it sounds stupid, but how do you guys do it? Thanks, -Tom P.S. When I replace the O-rings in the oil channels (it's an engine fed converter), do I need to use a special type of O-ring, or can I just buy regular ones down at the hardware store? Thanks again

Thanks. I was thinking of doing that, but didn't know if it would work. Now I know. Thanks again. -Tom

Will a timing light designed for a 12 volt system work on a 6 volt system? If not, where can I get a 6 volt timing light? Thanks. -Tom

Thanks guys! This worked really well. -Tom

Hi everyone, Does anybody have the part number for the 1953 Chrysler engine fed torque converter repair kit? Thanks, Tom

Hey everyone, I was wondering: what's the best way to clean the crust (oxidation?) off of chrome? I tried the regular chrome cleaner/polish, but it didn't do much. It shined the good chrome, but not the crusty stuff. Then I tried fine steel wool (on a tiny, unnoticable spot), and it seemed to work pretty well. Is this safe? Will it leave noticable scratches? Is there a better way? Thanks for your help. -Tom

Hello again, I've been using the little 20 oz Gunk lead substitute for my fuel, but I've heard there are big jugs of the stuff available. What brand do you use, and where do you find the big jugs? Thanks. -Tom

For your question about it sitting for 20 years... It might leak. If it does, you'll feel it. It will be like a slipping clutch after it leaks for a while. This is because it will loose the fluid to drive the little propellers inside. Just keep your eye on it; it might be just fine.

Hey everybody, As some of you know, I've been wrestling a nasty oil leak on my '53 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe. I've run into another confusing situation. When the engine is at idle, it leaks everywhere. But when I'm going down the road, it doesn't seem to leak. I tested this by driving it for 100 miles (took about 1/2 quart), refilling, and then letting it idle for about ten minutes (took about a quart!). What's going on? Thanks. -Tom

Hi everyone, My engine fed torque converter has a leak, but I really don't want to take everything apart to get to it. I was thinking maybe I could pour in some kind of oil additive that helps seals; maybe that would slow down the leak. Is there anything wrong with trying this? -Tom

Thanks guys. I got a Sneaky Pete, but it didn't help much. The way my seal is built I couldn't screw into it, because it has a metal retainer inside it. But I finally got it out, and got the new one in with no problem. This helped my oil leak, but I found that my engine fed torque converter is leaking also. But that's a story for another day. Thanks again. -Tom

Hi, My car does have a clutch and a torque converter. I tried pushing in the clutch, but it didn't work. When you say "unhook the fluid coupling," do you mean take it out of the car, or just unbolt it from the crankshaft? Also, the eight lugs on the torque converter have little groves in them. Does this mean they are left hand thread? Thanks for all the help. -Tom

No, it's not a rope seal, it's rubber. I could probably get it out, but I'm worried about getting the new one in. If I could just drop the crank a quarter inch... Thanks -Tom

Hey everyone, I have a 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe with a straight-six flathead in it. I'm replacing the rear main bearing seal, but not very easily. I loosened all the main bearings (4), and I still can't get the crankshaft to drop down a little bit. I need the crankshaft down so that I can get the top half of the seal out. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. -Tom

Hey everyone, I have a 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe with a straight-six flathead in it. I'm replacing the rear main bearing seal, but not very easily. I loosened all the main bearings (4), and I still can't get the crankshaft to drop down a little bit. I need the crankshaft down so that I can get the top half of the seal out. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance. -Tom

Hi everybody, I have a major leak in my torque converter. The car is a 1953 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe with a 265ci Flathead Six. The torque converter is engine-fed. Is there any way I can remove the torque converter WITHOUT pulling the engine? Thanks for any suggestions. -Tom

Thanks guys.