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twister25f

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  1. I recently acquired a Morris J2 Panel van and am looking to find anyone who may have parts. I am not sure of the year though someone said the VIN number places it roughly around 1964. I am looking for any info on verifying the exact year and perhaps anything else on this van. The guy I got it from said he bought it from a local junk yard in Kansas to keep it from going to the crusher. Overall it is in decent shape, not much rust & fairly complete. I've been told the motors in these were the same as MG's & Austins so perhaps someone knows of an MG dealer? Right now I would like to find a shop manual, ignition switch w/ key, spark plugs, oil filter & anything else I might need to get this running again. Brake shoes, etc. I'm sure will come later though I would also like to find someone who might have window & door seals. Anyway let me know if you have any ideas!!! Thanks!!! Fred
  2. I have for sale on ebay at the moment a 1936 Ford hood - complete and nice shape (2 top panels, 2 side panels, chrome strip and handle latches) and an original 1955-57 Chevy continental kit cover. Just thought I'd let anyone know who is looking for something like these. Links are : hood: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=180009793150&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT cover: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=180009799092&ih=008&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT Thanks.
  3. Probably old news to most but is there anyone out there reproducing the windshield, door and window rubber seals? Main thing I need at the moment is windshield seals but will eventually need rubber all the way around for a '41 business coupe. Let me know. Thanks! Fred
  4. Thought I'd see if there is any interest. I'm clearing out the yard and this stuff has to go. I'm located in Overland Park, KS (Kansas City area). This stuff will have to be picked up. I do not have the time or resources to ship these. This is all the Cadillac stuff I have. '49 Caddy p/s front fender w/ chrome, nice, needs straightening under headlight - $125 '54 Caddy p/s front fender - needs minor straightening/repair - $75 '54 Caddy hoods (2) nice - $50 each '54 Caddy trunk lids (2) nice - $50 each '54 Caddy front bumper w/most of the grille, bullets bad - $135 '54 Caddy front bumper only, no bullets - $65 ?? inner fender pieces - don't know what they are for $20 each View pics at: http://www.mini-things.com/caddy.html You'll have to pick this stuff up. Make a hell of a deal for all of it. Nothing else in the pics is for sale. If you have any questions let me know! Most of this stuff is in very nice shape needing very little work. No chrome on the hoods/trunks. Front bumpers need the bottom piece straightened out a bit. Also have a '59 Edsel grill, collar, & left/right headlight pieces. decent shape. make offer. will try to get some pics. Open to trade for '41 Dodge coupe parts, 15" WWW, ???. Thanks! Fred
  5. Thought I'd see if there is any interest. I'm clearing out the yard and this stuff has to go. I'm located in Overland Park, KS (Kansas City area). This stuff will have to be picked up. I do not have the time or resources to ship these. '49 Caddy p/s front fender w/ chrome, nice, needs straightening under headlight - $125 '54 Caddy p/s front fender - needs minor straightening/repair - $75 '54 Caddy hoods (2) nice - $50 each '54 Caddy trunk lids (2) nice - $50 each '54 Caddy front bumper w/most of the grille, bullets bad - $135 '54 Caddy front bumper only, no bullets - $65 ?? inner fender pieces - don't know what they are for $20 each View pics at: http://www.mini-things.com/caddy.html You'll have to pick this stuff up. Make a hell of a deal for all of it. Nothing else in the pics is for sale. If you have any questions let me know! Most of this stuff is in very nice shape needing very little work. No chrome on the hoods/trunks. Front bumpers need the bottom piece straightened out a bit. Also have a '59 Edsel grill, collar, & left/right headlight pieces. decent shape. make offer. will try to get some pics. Open to trade for '41 Dodge coupe parts, 15" WWW, ???. Thanks! Fred
  6. The problem did start after the motor rebuild. I'm not really sure what I'm looking for as far as the linkage so I guess I'll have to find my shop manual however the fluid level is fine. On rare occasion the car will shudder when accelerating from a stop as if something is binding but clears up after a second or two. The car has 78,400 miles on it. Also another problem I noticed today is in the little glass fuel filter after driving for about 10 minutes the gas appears to be boiling! Any ideas? I've had nothing but trouble since the rebuild so I'm anxious to get all the problems ironed out. Let me know. Thanks!
  7. I have a '57 Chevy Bel Air 4dr sedan w/ a 283 V8 & 2spd Powerglide that I need help with. When accelerating the motor will continue to rev up and will only shift gears when you let off the gas. Once in awhile it will shift on its own but only after getting wound up so much it sound like it's ready to explode. The original 283 was rebuilt about 1500 miles ago but the transmission hasn't been touched other than to get the motor out. The original 2bbl carb & intake was replaced w/ an original '57 4bbl intake & carb (which still leaks fuel despite having supposedly been rebuilt and the motor still smokes). I don't know much about cars but would like to fix the problem myself if possible rather than spend hundreds of dollars at several shops having them trying to figure out the problem as the shop that did the work isn't around anymore. It seems like maybe a vaccuum problem??? Or is this a sad sign that the transmission is going out??? Let me know your thoughts! Thanks!
  8. Most people think I'm crazy but I'd say any old car or truck is worth fixing up if you have the time and money. If you're wanting to fix it up to sell for profit or at least break even and the truck is pretty rough it's probably not going to be worth it but if you're doing it for the right reasons (preservation and enjoyment) I'd say go for it. It sounds like it may have a little sentimental value and history with it and if your idea is to keep it and have fun with it I'd say go for it. With these old Chevys there's tons of reasonable new and used parts, replacement metal, etc. out there so getting parts won't be a problem. For a manual I looked through Hemmings and found Auto Book Center (www.autobookcenter.com) though there's lots more places out there. Ebay would be another good source. Like I said fixing these things up is a matter of time and money but when you're doing it for enjoyment it's worth every bit in the end. Good Luck!
  9. Can someone tell me the overall length and width in inches of a '56 Ford shortbed pickup? Either bumper to bumper or bumper to tailgate (I've been told not all pickups came with a rear bumper). I'm trying to figure the accuracy of a model and can't find any info other than wheelbase and don't have a real one I can go out and measure. Thanks for the help! Fred
  10. I'm looking for a windshield for a 1941 Dodge. Either a decent usable one or damaged but intact enough for a glass maker to make a pattern from. Mine is there but the edges are messed up. Also wouldn't mind glass for the doors (business coupe). Thanks! Fred twister25f@yahoo.com
  11. Can anyone tell me the size/type of bolts/nuts for installing the front & rear bumpers of a 1941 Dodge car? I was hoping I could pick up something at Lowe's that would work for now as the car is an hours drive away & I'm just trying to get some of the parts out of the trunk & onto the car. My manual doesn't say anything. Any help on sizes of other bolts and screws would also be helpful. Whoever had the car before took all the trim, bumpers, hood, grill, etc. off and didn't save any mounting hardware. Also any idea a price range for a front windshield & both door glasses (business coupe) for this car? Thanks in advance!
  12. Thank you for the info!!! And yes the info on the Fluid Drive was helpful as well! I'm glad some of this stuff is still available without going the "exact original/reproduction" parts route and a place like NAPA is what I had in mind for mechanical stuff. Like I said in my earlier posts I'm just trying to get it running and driving. While it may go against some in this group I don't really care about keeping it bone stock #'s matching original but I also don't want to do major conversions. If a part works it works. I just want to enjoy it... dents, rust and all!. However I don't have any desire to put a V8 in or chop it up. I fell in love with the car the way it is. With its little top & huge trunk it alreay looks cool! Plus I always like the option to go back to original with nothing more than a few parts & paint. The way I look at it this car is probably beyond what anyone in their right mind would undertake and was probably better suited for parts or a full custom but it was all there. Thus my desire to keep the original motor, transmission & running gear. As far as other parts how about the various hoses, wires, fuel lines, etc.? Any of that still available? A lot I'm sure is universal and could be made from other stuff but if it is just the right piece I would just assume save the trouble. Also you mentioned if they don't list '41 Dodge to try 1950 Dodge parts. I've seen a lot of people mention using 1947-52 Dodge parts which leads me to assume the motors were pretty much the same. Is this correct? Anyway thanks again for the info and let me know on the above. Thanks!
  13. I was wondering if anyone can steer me in the direction of some good parts dealers for a 1941 Dodge. There's all kinds of stuff in Hemmings & the internet & was wondering if anyone had some they liked. I finally got the '41 Dodge business coupe moved closer to home & now I need to start getting parts for it to get it running again. Mainly plugs, wires, coil, ignition switch/keys, cables, hoses, starter, etc... Some of this may be good on the car but I won't find out till I start tinkering with it. I need body parts too (floor, pass. front fender, trunk lid, decent seat, etc.) but for now just mainly wanting to get it back on the road. If anyone has some leads let me know. Thanks!
  14. I know some of you may think it's a stupid question. Please forgive me!!! I'm still waiting to get my '41 Dodge moved up here and since it doesn't run I won't be able to try "Fluid Drive" for awhile. I've heard it is in essence a semi-auto transmission but what does that mean to someone driving it? I've been looking through my books & stuff and it doesn't really say. Anything special to note on one sitting for 20 years? I read the post on the types of fluid to use which was very informative. I'm just inpatiently waiting for my car & manual & just have to know! Thanks!
  15. Just as a side note to people who judge smaller car shows. Go easy on the old, unrestored cars. They are cool cars too. I remember a few years back a couple had a 1947 Chrysler sedan that was all original down to the paint & interior. Only things new were a battery & tires and had almost 150K on it (they drove it everywhere). A guy I judged with gave it 45 out of 100 because of a little thinning paint, worn interior, few little dings in the trim & most of the paint gone on the engine. Yes, it was not perfect but it was perhaps one of the best 50+ year-old survivors I had seen w/ no rust or missing parts and a very nice interior. I gave it a 90 so it would recieve a gold (keep in mind these are just plaques, if you get 90-100 gold, 80-90 silver, etc. - there was no best-of awards). He flipped. "Why the #$@? should it be in the same class as my totally redone '57 Chevy!?!? It doesn't compare!" My words : You're right. It doesn't compare. 1st off - what entitles you to a gold just because you spent $25K on a car you can virtually build from repro parts. 2nd - it is much easier to redo a car than to keep it in extremely nice, original condition for 50+ years. 3rd - Have some respect for a car (and owners) that hasn't changed since before you were born and is still on the road. 4th - have fun with this hobby and make it fun for others. Keep in mind I'm not saying a perfect car shouldn't win over a non-perfect car, I'm just saying it is hard to compare 2 different things. A flawless paint job should win over a rattlecan paint job but shouldn't a nice seat cover stitched by craftsman over 50 years ago be given some consideration over the same thing made by a machine in China? I just saw a 1928 Chevy sedan in totally original, awesome (for its age) condition with not nearly a dent or spot of rust on it. Could drive it away. Nice original interior too. Of course someone will probably completely redo it just because it won't win a show as is. In a skewed point of view the more nice, original cars that are restored to show or to make profit in better shape - the more nice, original cars we loose. Sort of like loosing classics to the crusher but they're still here in a different form. Why should we keep things old when new stuff is better? Why not? In most other collectible markets restoration hurts value so we have a unique hobby. I'm not trying to stir trouble, I'd just like to see more consideration in the hobby for nice, preserved originals. Sorry this post was so long!!! Fred '57 Chevy (restored!!! - nice original interior though ) '61 Dodge convert. '41 Dodge coupe '76 Pontiac GP
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