Packard8

Pages 5 & 6 of the ?Engine? section of the '55-'56 Shop Manual (readily available through the usual vendors) has a detailed description and illustration of the oiling system. There was also a modified swash plate introduced in late 1956 to limit the chain oiling to one squirt per revolution, thereby increasing the oil supply to the lifters.

If I pay $20 for "handling", I wanna get "handled" in the right spot......... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />..... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smirk.gif" alt="" />

This is a legit and irritating issue. I?d tell the vendor to leave out the catalogues next time. You also have to be careful when buying on ebay. I always email the seller and get a confirmation on shipping AND handling before bidding on parts, tools & such. Often the ?handling? charges are outrageous.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes there is for sure a lot of sales spin in that booklet, I guess that was its point. I like how they don't talk about the performance between the head designs, but rather go to the classic salesman approach of: "Well their **INSERT SUPERIOR PRODUCT DESIGN HERE** has lots of moving parts that can fail, ours is a more robust design". What a difference a year makes. </div></div> In the early Ultramatic description they give the marketing spin to the lack of a trans dipstick by saying.."the fluid is checked from underneath, no serviceman ever has to enter your car". <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

That is a clever way to post a ?wanted? ad. Speaking of ebay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4543075572&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT Anyone want to wager that this car will make the $40K reserve? I predict another easy $50 contribution to ebay?s coffers. The seller swears that it is an actual 29K mile car? but I think the pic of the gas pedal tells a different story??how does one wear it down to shiny bare metal in 29K miles? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

As one Automotive Writer pointed out, the DS19 was an engineering marvel poorly executed, whereas the VW Beetle was an engineering antiquity well executed. The French had some good ideas in the 50?s?like the Panhard Dyna that got 50 MPG @ 80 MPH and featured torsion bar valve springs and a mostly aluminum monocoque body. Problem was that the Renaults, Citroens and Panhards had a lot of plastic parts that started crumbling after a few years of USA summers, and the Renaults especially began grenading after 40K miles of interstate driving.

Good idea Rick, do a daily ebay search on "Packard vacuum advance" and see what comes up. One caution tho, these units usually have either a leather or rubberized canvas diaphram and any NOS units are likely to be pushing 50 years old. As with fuel pumps, brake boosters etc, I'd rather have a recent re-man than NOS.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I need a vacuum advance unit for my 352 with Delco distributor. Where can I get one? </div></div> You might try NAPA, sometimes I'm surprised at what they come up with. Also try the usual vendors (Kanter, Pat Ind, etc). I'm pretty sure the same advance unit was used on other cars of the era.

Yep Rick, I?ve never heard of the job being done without some provision for the ?whatcha-ma-call-its? incorporated into the con rods. My advice to Len (if he hasn?t been run off by the tirades) is to consult with the real ?experts?? the machinists who actually do the work. I know the conversion to shell brgs has been done on many different old engines for many years. It?s just a matter of finding a competent machine shop to do it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As Rick mentioned not a word about the running condition of the car. The engine does look complete however and has Electromatic clutch and I would guess overdrive. Not a bad price even if the engine needs work IMHO. </div></div> If you look at the Q & A on the listing he states "was running a few years ago, not running now" and "needs starter". Still looks like a nice car for the BIN price.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> P.S. Please do not even refer to anyone as having the letter "P" in their first name, or letter "H" in their last name. Sorry to tell you that, at least in the past, that small noisy minority who just do not have much LEGIT interest in the exchange of technical info, have had the 'ear' of the "powers that be", and as a result, they may delete your entire contribution. </div></div> I doubt that Rick L. is in much jeopardy of having his ?contributions deleted?. However, I?ll wager that someone else (in their latest incarnation) will soon have their plug pulled and be kicked to the curb??..yet again. To paraphrase Albert Einstein: ?Stupidity is doing the same thing over and over and expecting a different result?. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

Hi Len, I think the trick is to find an insert that has the same or a bit more width than the original babbit brg surface. After the registration notch is machined in the rod & cap and oil holes are matched, the excess shell material can be machined off to provide the proper side play clearance. I?ll bet Egge, Kanter, Terrill etc have addressed the issue and may be of help. Best, John

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi again, Rick: Again, please dont think I am picking on you personally. This forum is a great place for all of us to exchange views and learn something. However, "posting" just for the pleasure of seeing one's words in type, can ill-serve other hobbyists who may need accurate info. </div></div> Pete.....why not give us a break and sh$# can the confrontational stuff? You could be a valuable asset to this group if you kept it civil.......

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Lake, Did you get up on the Wrong side of bed this Morning? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> I'm only trying to help and give what information and facts that I know. Even if I were wrong, that does not give you the right to be insulting and say that what I know to be true, is Nonsence. The strange thing is that you say it's nonsence and then in the next paragraph you explain why I'm correct. </div></div> Rick, Just ignore him. This fellow keeps turning up here under various names until he once again is banned for this type of argumentative and abusive behavior. Kind of a shame really, as he does have a good amount of knowledge?.. It?s just that the presentation stinks. Maybe he?s off his meds again? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Hi Len, In many applications it is possible to re-work the con rods to accept shell brgs. I would check with perhaps Terrill Machine, Egge or other experienced shops that specialize in pre-war parts & machining. Even if the cost is a bit more at the outset, I believe the conversion would recoup the expense down the road when eventually the inserts need to be replaced. Another plus would be the superior service life and reliability of the modern shell bearing inserts. Keep us posted on what you learn. Best, John

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've just been told its a 200 deluxe. An Australian import model with right hand steer.My friend definetely wants the cormorant hood ornament, so I will try to source the same style as the image which was sent to me. Do you, or does anyone else know if the grille sections from the 300 and 400 will fit the 200 also? Thanks, Kelly </div></div> I believe that any of the ?51-?54 grill shells and their components will interchange. The Seniors had a few bolt on gee-gaws to fancy them up.

Hi Brian, A very good explanation of ebay?s ?proxy bidding?. I personally don?t endorse the third party ?sniper software?, but in the end it is also limited to the max $$ that the ?sniper? is willing to pay, just like the in-house ebay proxy bid. I've always wondered what would happen when 2, 3 or more "sniper programs" bid against each other on the same auction.????? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The reason I say that Packard didn't produce a station wagon in 1948 through 50, is because of the following. Brad Berry had a 1948 Station Sedan, and every time I refered to it as a stion wagon, Brad would give me hell and correct me. I maybe wrong but I think you find that packard never listed thier station sedan as a station wagon. </div></div> Well, Rolls called it a "shooting brake" (and I believe they produced them as early as the mid 20's), but it sure as heck looks like a station wagon to me. I think we're getting into the realm of asking "what the meaning of "is" is...." <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The Pan Americans (metal body) came out in 1952. The Panthers (fiberglass body) came out in 1954. </div></div> Thanks for the info. Was the Nash Healy also F/G or all metal?

I'm guessing one of the Panther show cars. I believe they were first shown in 1952. Tho in my mind, they were not "production cars"...I'd give Corvette the nod as to being first.

I've seen 200's with both, but I believe the "standard" had the jet plane, the 200 "deluxe" may have had the bird. If we had the car's serial number, we could determine if it is a 200 std or dlx.

Hi Kelly, As I recall it should be the "jet plane" style on the '51 200. Go to www.packardclub.org and look at the photos in both the "reference" and "showroom" sections and that should give you an idea. Best, John

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What heay range is the best for these motor's and what is the spark plug gap agian I forgot...Thanks in advance.... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> </div></div> The 55th and 56th Series Packard Service Manual (readily available through the usual Vendors) specifies a Champion H10 plug gapped @ .033-.037. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Nice car Bill!! That color scheme goes well on the 400.

Hi Mike, The engine # is on a machined pad near where the oil filter return line enters the top of the block. There should be 3 sets of #'s on two lines. I'm going by memory here but...the top line is the serial # that matches the righthand number on the door post, the lower left # is the series (5682=Patrician) and the right lower # is the actual serial # of the engine...I assume it is sequential as the engines wert down the production line.