Aanderson44

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In case you missed this thread in the CCCA forum, there was a terrible accident yesterday involving a Duesenberg in which three young lives were lost. A Volvo apparently ran a stop sign, hitting and rolling the car several times. Here's a link to local Detroit covereage of the accident. Please install and use seat belts. Nothing is "safe enough" without them. </div></div> Dave, Where do you figure a Duesenberg Phaeton is a 6,000lb car? From all my reading, open bodied Duesenberg J's (phaeton is an open body, last I looked) seldom ever tipped the scale at much more than say, 4500lbs or so--sedans, limousines, berline's, town cars? Yes, those were the heavyweight behemoths. As to how a Volvo could cause a Duesenberg to roll, well, there's hardly a Volvo out there today under 4000lbs (2 tons), due to all the extra stiffness, accessories and sound deadening that goes into a car of that class. All the idiot Volvo driver had to do was hit the Dueseberg in just the right spot to either pitch it sideways, or collapse a wheel, which likely would have caused it to roll, were it going at a speed fast enough to roll over rather than slide. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">It was made by Boyertown Auto Body in Boyertown, PA. Any body esle have this truck? I have lots of questions. Thanks </div></div> Even if nobody else has one of this particular truck, ask away, as perhaps the questions you have might be easily answerable. As a start, Boyertown Auto Body probably built this same basic body for just about any make pickup or medium-duty truck--for example, note how the front of their body shell doesn't quite match up to the Ford's cowling and front fenders. Addtionally, there were any number of local/regional commercial body manufacturers around the US back in the 50's (even true today), who worked with "Driveaway" chassis from all the truckmakers (Ford, GM Truck & Coach, Dodge, Studebaker, International Harvester in the case of pickups and medium duty trucks), and they tended, from my readings, to offer pretty similar bodies; likely the construction didn't vary that much from one maker to another. Certain components and fittings likely are outsourced, such as door handles, latches, locks, seats and seat mounts, perhaps even some types of rear doors. Also, hooking up with American Truck Historical Society, and dropping some pictures and the questions you may have to Vintage Truck Magazine might be very, very helpful! Neat rig! Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Great, thanks for the info, I'll give it a try, just wasnt sure where to start looking </div></div> Just a thought here: Chopping a top on a body shell such as the 49-51 Mercury isn't for the faint of heart! For starters, you had best be pretty skilled in welding 20-gauge mild steel sheet metal, as that is what those cars were stamped out from. The biggest issues you will face have to do with the "tumblehome" present in this roof. "Tumblehome" is the stylist's term for the slanted angle of body panels, and the Merc has tumblehome on all for sides of the top (right side, left side, backlight and windshield). What all this means is that not only would you be cutting and chopping a section out of each roof pillar, but the top panel itself has to be split, both cross-wise and length-wise, and then stretched, by adding in sheet metal to make it both longer and wider. Generally as well, customizers cut away the entire backlight (rear window) area, and lay that down at a shallower angle, to give that almost-fastback look which "makes" a chopped Mercury look so low. Otherwise, the backlight, if in it's original angle, winds up looking rather odd, crude. Of course, all of this does require some hammer & dolly work as well, in order to get that smooth contour to the roof with minimal filler (best is no filler at all, save for perhaps right at the welded joints, which means some pretty skilled sheetmetal work. The relatively few professional shops today that will perform this work almost universally require a second body, or at least a second roof panel, to provide the already-shaped sheet metal for performing the stretches needed in the top. In short, it's not only truly skilled work, but also rather expensive to do--but the looks can be fantastic. I know that this is a forum primarily aimed at factory-stock restorations, but in the case of these years of Mercury's, they are among the very, very few cars ever styled as if they meant for people to make major customs out of them! Have fun! Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does anyone know where I can get information on how to chop a top on a 50 Mercury? </div></div> Ken, This has been covered numerous times in magazines, also George Barris published, several years ago, a series of books showing how to do all the various aspects of custom bodywork, in the manner in which they did it back "in the day". One of those books covered, thoroughly, the chopping of a 49-51 Merc top. I don't have the title handy, but do some questioning on some of the custom car or street rodding forums (you'll have to do some Google searching) and I'll bet someone will steer you in the right direction. Art

Your taillight unit sounds everything like a 1960 Chrysler unit--those were "boomerang" shaped, fit in the ends of the huge tailfins of that year. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello, I have a 1930 Cadillac V16 Series 452. I had rebuilded the carburators, but the cork floats are very worn. I had try to find them in different places, but no way ! I will appreciate any help. This Caddy must run again! Thanks [color:\\"green\\"] </div></div> I should have read your post more carefully! You did say "cork"! Depending on how large those cork floats need to be, you might check in at a Hobby Lobby or a Michael's, both are huge craft stores. I know I've seen fairly large chunks of cork in both places over the years for use in crafts. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hello, I have a 1930 Cadillac V16 Series 452. I had rebuilded the carburators, but the cork floats are very worn. I had try to find them in different places, but no way ! I will appreciate any help. This Caddy must run again! Thanks [color:\\"green\\"] </div></div> What are the original floats? Brass, cork? Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">A word of caution with respect to "Dealer installed options & add ons". Only those dealer installed items are permitted for National AACA Judging that have been authorized by the manufacturer via its literature, sales directiives or parts books. Obviously a dealer in order to make the sale and keep his customer happy might install anything the customer wanted, and often did. Just because something was dealer installed does not make it acceptable for judging. So if your vehicle has "dealer" add ons make sure you have verified them through the necessary factory documentation to avoid the possibility of an authenticity deduction. </div></div> Dave, EXACTLY! Before answering this question, I did go back to my references on '57 Chevy options, RPO and dealer-installed. In the case of tri-5 Chevies, just as with Model A Fords, so much research has been done, so many authoritative books and magazine articles have been written, so many original factory documents have been reprinted over time, there really isn't any excuse for an inaccurate restoration or incorrect accessories or options installed. Art

Radials were available in 1972, and were probably optional OEM on the 72 Cutlass--you'd need to see a '72 Cutlass sales brochure to confirm that, but I believe I am right. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"I can't understand what genius thought America needed a car with Grade Retarder." Probably from the same family of "geniuses" that thought the name "Utopian Turtle-Top" was a viable name for a car and would've encouraged consumers to go out and buy one! (Cooler heads settled on the name "Thunderbird"...) </div></div> Grade retarder? Made perfect sense, in a way, considering that most buyers of automatic transmission-equipped cars were doing it for the first time, and one of the complaints was a lack of feeling that engine compression would hold the car back on long, steep grades (they didn't, either!), resulting in a lot of brake wear. Today, we can shift the tranny out of overdrive, and get some compression retarding on hills. "Utopian Turtle Top"? That was the prized recommendation of some artsy-fartsy poet engaged by Lincoln-Mercury to come up with possible names for the then E-car project--cooler heads decided on "Edsel" (not Thunderbird). Oh well, cool heads or not, the car was a dog on the market. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have an original 1957 Chevrolet 2 dr. hard top BelAir 2400 Series vin#VC-57L191778, My questions are: What tires are acceptable for judging? I have four (plus spare) Bias ply, original style white wall tires on vehicle. Can I replace these with Coker Radials and not lose points? Are rear fender skirts acceptable, if original replacements for judging vehicle? The car has spinner hub caps, which I believe were an option for this vehicle. Are they acceptable for judging vehicle? Do spark plugs have to be of correct brand name for that year? If not what is acceptable for judging? Thank you for your help. </div></div> Chevrolet had a spinner set for the '57 full wheel cover, that was dealer-installed. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's a picture of my beloved KisselKar, shortly after the gold leaf work was finished. We've put as many as 28 miles on in a full Sunday of giving dozens of rides down at the Park. My buddy Jim usually drives the Kissel while I fool around with the other stuff -- after thousands of miles behind the wheel it's fun to enjoy the sights and sounds from a pedestrian's point of view. You'll find a few other Kisselkar pix and info if you do a search for my previous posts. </div></div> Gotta love your Kisselkar! As a scale automotive modeler, while there are no model kits of Kissel's, I have a pretty large stack of Stutz Bearcats, which one could easily be modified into a touring car, painted, trimmed and equipped for fire service. Thanks for sharing! Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a photo </div></div> Wes, As I posted in the Model A Forum, that's no Model A engine block, but most likely a T. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Problem has been solved There was an aux vin number (matches the stainless metal plate spot welded to drivers door jamb- numbers were stamped on the top outer side of the frame rail on the drivers side of the frame about 3 inches in front of the body mount hanger , approx under the drivers seat.It can been seen after cleaning with a good light and a mirror. As for the last reply- yes it is id'd by the number in the door jamb but they (California Highway Patrol )want to see the vin number in at least 2 different locations for verification purposes - some newer cars have it in glove box w/option sheet some in trunk ,some on trunk lid - some engine have part of the vin as the sequence number - in my case i now have found it in 2 different spots and am happy to see that they match(original frame) Im interested to see how my Dads 24 Buick project is going to get registered - it only has a bill of sale and will be put on a newer chassis - the original frame has a serial number tag riveted to the left front frame rail and the cowl has a id model tag screwed on and the engine has a different serial number tag on it. Thanks anyways Burt </div></div> Burt, NOW, on that '24 Buick: Prior to 1/10/56, ALL cars in the US were originally titled by engine number alone, which number may or may not have matched the body number or the chassis number--THAT is something I am very, VERY certain of. There would be a chassis number, most likely stamped on the top of the frame rail on left side as well, HOWEVER, that number would be hidden either underneath the body, or underneath the inner edge of the front fender and hood shelf--go document this one with CA MV codes, you will find, I believe, that I'm correct on this, and if so, then your CHP will simply have to use what was used originally--not much way around it. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here is a photo of what I have. Sorry it has taken so long </div></div> Wes, That's a Model T engine block. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I was only able to see part of it but looks like a good show on the Speed Channel. I had never thought about the "new" wide track Pontiacs not fitting the tracks of the local car wash </div></div> I've always thought the Dinah Shore Chevy Commercials in the 50's and early 60's were tops, particularly her annual "new car introduction" Chevy Shows each September. But, for sheer impact, I loved the 60-second commercials that GM used, showing the quality, quietness of Fisher Bodies, the car body (from firewall back) gliding in the sky, with a family of 5 inside--talk about "Jet Smooth Ride"! Art

Frame number, on a 57 Chevy??? Sorry, but your CHP officer doesn't know what he's talking about! Beginning 1/1/56, all cars built in the US are registered by the serial number on the cowling tag. You can go to a good public library, check CA motor vehicle code, but I am pretty darned certain about this! Find the section regarding that change (which was universal in all the then-48 states, Xerox it off for him. Probably, that officer wasn't even a gleam in his father's eye in '57. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I must have done something out of line, the images I uploaded yesterday do not appear anywhere I can find them (Should be in members gallery - Stude8) yesterday I thought they were waiting for censors to approve?? So today I tried to reload the same photos and it tells me they already exist but doesn't say where? So maybe a moderator can figure out where they ended up. Which brings up the question how come we can post a photo attachment to this forum without approval instantly but the gallery has to go past censors?? Meanwhile the other contributor photos are viewable at Wisconsin site. To answer question about Clancy 6 wheel car it is a clone, however it was built by the same man (Watson) who built original. I can say it is by far the LOUDEST OFFY I have ever heard. I'll attach the Meteor photo with this post. Stude8 </div></div> AJ Watson didn't build the original Pat Clancy 6-wheeler, though--that car came before Watson's involvement at Indianapolis, I believe, from all the histories I have read over the years. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I could please use any information possible in reference to my deceased fathers vintage ford truck. I believe it is a 1909 Ford Model T truck. He was 3/4 done restoring before he passed away. The problem is I cannot find a truck like it in the research I've done. The closest comparison I've come across is that of a Model B truck. I am clueless when it comes to knowing what exactly we have left as a legacy from my father. Where could I check the VIN number? Where to I find out what exactly my fathers truck is? Description: Solid wood, has the gas lamps that are in the front and back of the truck, we own the original tire pump of the truck, the cab and the bed are all made out of wood besides for the metal runner board of the truck. It is registered as a horseless carriage. </div></div> If it is truly a 1909 Model T truck, larger than say, a small panel delivery, or a pickup, it's most likely a conversion done either one-off, or an aftermarket conversion done several years later, as Ford themselves didn't offer much at all in the way of trucks until the introduction of the Model TT 1-ton chassis in 1917-18. This isn't to denigrate the vehicle in any way whatsoever, no way at all. Lots of Model T's were converted, either from new, or in a "second life", and those can be most intriguing to see! Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jan, Did you test your link? I get nowhere when I click on IT, would like to see your photos. Stude8 </div></div> Worked fine for me just now. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I dont own a 56 Hudson, I read in some V8 engine books I have that there was a 250 ( along with a few other sizes in the series, such as 327, that could be confused with other makes ). One of the books said it was a large heavy engine. I was wondering if it was as big as a Packard V8 320-352-374 CID, which is externally about the same size as a Cadillac 472-500 CID. Note that some engines of this era were physically huge despite small cubic inches. </div></div> American Motors did buy Packard V8's, and then the engine line itself, but those are definitely larger than 250cid. AMC's first in-house designed V8 was their 327, which came, I believe in 1957, and continued pretty much well into the 60's. 250cid is actually a pretty small displacement for a V8, although Ford's famed flathead V8 stood at 221cid from 1932-53 (and their first small-block OHV V8 came in at 221cid in 1962), Mercury used a 239cid version of the Ford flathead 1939-53, Ford's first Y-block OHV of 1954 was 239cid, as was Studebaker's V8 in 1951. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Does anyone know the following specs for the 3.50 bore x 3.25 stroke - 250 CID V8 used in the 1956 Hudson ? 1) bore spacing, 2) block deck height - from the crank center to the block deck, 3) cam to crank center to center. </div></div> Gary, Are you SURE that this is only 250cid? That would have been the smallest V8, outside of the 239cid Studebaker in 1956, and AMC (Nash & Hudson) was using the Packard V8 in 1956, which was a much larger (350cid-plus) in 1956, I believe. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Being a body man, not a mechanic, I have a question. 40 Olds, 3-speed. When I take off in 1st. gear, and only then, the whole car shakes and rattles horribly. Is the rattle from the clutch or the pressure plate? Which need replaced? Or both? </div></div> Sounds to me very much like a pressure plate issue. Pressure plates can become warped, particularly by slipping the clutch unreasonably upon starting up from a stop. That was very, very common years ago, when cars such as yours likely were being driven by elderly people--I certainly remember that being so common when I was a kid in the early 50's. The only cure is either refacing the pressure plate, or replacing it. Another possibility is oil on the pressure plate, which can make the clutch facing "grabby". This tends to go away once the car has been driven a bit, and the oil is scrubbed away through a series of gear shifts, but it does come back, and only gets worse, until the clutch simply slips constantly. A minor possibility, and one that I experienced once, is rust on the pressure plate--but that goes away and stays away. Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm new to Model A's having inherited my dad's 1930 tudor. She's finally back on the road but I have questions. First has to do with the spark lever. Do I only move this when I start the car or is there a reason to touch it in typical driving situations? Next, today I had one of the Bendix securing bolts come off. I assume that it is rattling around at the bottom of the bellhousing. Will it do any damage there or can I wait until there is another reason to go in there? Fortunately, it was an easy fix and I was parked on a hill. The car drives pretty well. Dad added an overdrive so the revs can be kept to a minimum. Thanks, Ed </div></div> Ed, If you value your starter (or your arm if you have to hand-crank it!) start the car with spark fully retarded--that's what the owner's manual will tell you. Of course, once the engine is running, as you drive away, advance the spark--much better performance that way, less chance of overheating as well (not that a well-set-up A should have much problem with that). As for the Bendix bolt, if it was going to cause an immediate problem, it would have already--fortunately, there is a lot of clearance inside the flywheel housing--however, I'd not just leave it there and do nothing about it, at some point, best to pull the engine to get the bellhousing separated, so you can remove it, before it were to do anything (probably the worst that would happen is that if it gets caught up in the flywheel, it would ruin the ring gear). Art

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Here's a pic of the two springs laid on top of each other to show the difference in curvature. In the pic, the top spring is the top spring from the first pic showing the suspension in situ. You can see that it is a little stiffer than the lower spring. I don't know if this is correct as is, or whether the two springs should be identical, or whether the difference can be put down to aging over the past 65 years. </div></div> I'm certainly no expert on the Jensen, but I am pretty certain that the two springs were originally arched differently, just as you see on the car now. This suspension is essentially the same as what is called "Tojeiro Suspension" as was used on Fiat 500/800 cars, and on AC sports cars in the 50's, including the first Shelby Cobra's. The shallow arched bottom spring acts as the lower A-arm, the tighter arched upper spring serves the purpose of an upper A-Arm. Almost all A-arm suspension setups are done "SLA", or short-long arm, with the upper A-Arm shorter than the lower, for providing some alteration of camber as the body of the car rolls side-to-side in curves and turns. I'd not alter that one bit. As this is a Jensen, and as such, a British-built car, perhaps some searching for Jensen website (and there are several!), is in order here, I believe. I know I've seen several, with technical areas, and if you can find one, I think a post or email might well give you the information you are looking for. Good luck in your search! Art