Bill Reichert

Try Turbo-Mopar.com and do a search for Ondonti. He has a V6 turbo'd

:/http://bbs.trailersailor.com/forums/tsbbcomp/trailersailor/index.cgi/read/671989

I'll let Hemi chime in on his TC. I don't think he gets 40 mpg but it is very good. the following is for the 4 cylinders engines. I don't know a thing about the V6. Getting 40 mpg requires a lot of mods that are not "off the shelf" items and running on the ragged edge of melted pistons for optimum combustion. You can search Turbo_Mopar.com for more info. The best thread was about 2 years ago. Search for MpgMike and Tvanlant threads. Tvanlant does head porting for a reasonable price.

that email didn't work for me. This one did. sf.nancy@mail.house.gov I also added this note. This is an additional note to the form letter that follows. Many of the cars that would be scrapped provide parts for hobbyists and experimenters. The Chrysler 4 cylinder turbo engines are capable of 40 mpg with the proper setup. This is an accidental discovery of tuning and building the engine for more horsepower. The manufacturers build the engines for longevity with minimal maintenance requirements. This compromises the emissions and mpg. My wife's uncle was Wilbur Clair that started the ruckus over the plastic carburetor floats in the 60's that wasted fuel. The simple explanation was the floats were good when designed. Fuel additives that Congress mandated after the floats were in cars destroyed them and they no longer functioned properly thereby dumping too much fuel in the engine. This was the result of well intentioned legislation by Congress without investigating the consequences. Please come up with a GOOD idea like the one suggested below. Thank you, Bill Reichert St. Louis, Mo.

there is a member of Turbo-Mopar.com (Ondonti) that has a turbo'd v6. Just do a search for his name. It's much simpler to up the hp on the 4 though.

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Since the head gaskets go at about 60-70,000 miles, I would guess the head was reworked at that time and repainted. The heads were silver and the block black.

I think they would make a nice shade for the hunting dogs rather than a fish pond! Old pickup tops are popular for the hunting dogs winter residence.

Hopefully the new shop will listen, then do a diagnostics to find the problem. Did you have a heat shield on the starter? The turbo and exhaust are right there to cook the solenoid. Available at dealers. there are lots of potential causes and it will get expensive without diagnostics. Some other causes. Bad splice in the alternator harness from batt to head ground, same for little brown wire on transmission, parasitic drain overnight. I posted Hemi's simple trouble shooter on the Yahoo site under diagnostics. The Yahoo format is not as good in some ways but much better for storing useful info under files. My electrical guru explained to me the way to check for bad splices is under a load. Simple resistance may show good with just one strand of wire making contact but will show bad under load.

I was wondering how things went. Glad to see you back with your wisdom.

I am afraid of owning a yellow car again. My dad's yellow Ford had a way of attracting drunk drivers. After two accidents in two years only the two left doors had not been reworked.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LouZ</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi Jerry, Normally all idle functions are controlled by that shuttle valve on the side of the throttle body. It usually needs to be sprayed (Cleaned) occasionally. </div></div> Otherwise known as the AIS (automatic idle Sensor?) Or the butterfly is stuck a little. Pull the throttle body and use a can of tb cleaner with good gloves.

I noticed one day that an attactrive young lady was the easiest way to get the wipers repaired for free. Have her go to any auto parts store and ask for help. This seems to work even during hail storms.

I have used the one piece boots. Make sure you get all the grease from the recessed area where the clamps go. I used the original style clamps that get bent. It took a little practice to get it right. That means I wasted a couple clamps.

Hopefully just cataracts? I had both done a couple years ago and now see in true color again.

I just put out an engine fire when I was at the gas station. Not my car. Don't drive if you smell fuel OR have a power steering leak.

That pic is for the passenger side. The bearing is for the differential not the axle. First drain the transmission since the fluid will pour out when the axles are pulled. (remove the pan) I'm guessing the diff pin is wasted because of one wheel burnouts? That may be the fix your mechanic is talking about. Chryco now has bolt on flanges to prevent the pin from slipping out. Maybe just get a replacement axle and see if it has slop when inserted? You should definitely replace the axle seals on both sides. wipe some grease on the back side where the spring is located. That will prevent the spring from popping out of place when the seal is tapped in. I went downstairs and looked at the spare parts. That has to be the diff pin slipped. The passenger side wouldn't wobble because it has a bushing plus the bearing.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bob S.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I wish I was fortunate to see a TC once in awhile. There are suppose to be two other TCs in the UK but have not seen either of these in the last 20 months. I under stand at least one of the owners is a member of the TC America club. Cheers, Bob </div></div> There is one in Switzerland. Owner is not there much though. Maybe someone can come up with the name of a Turbo-Mopar owner in the UK that has a web site. Can't remember his name or the site off hand. Found it. His name is Holley on http://www.Turbo-Mopar.com You can send him a private message.

That gave me a chuckle. A couple more points. You need to clean the holes for the head bolts before reassembly. If there is oil in the bottom, they will not torque properly. Get NEW headbolts. Use the Mopar head gasket from the vendors. When tensioning the (NEW)timing belt, see if Autozone or somewhere has a tensioner you can rent or borrow. On reassembly, set the crank to TDC (0 degrees on the timing mark on the torque converter), the holes in the cam sprocket should split the gasket line, AND the distributor slot on the intermediate shaft should go right to left. Don't count on the marks on the sprocket. Don't scrape the gasket surface on the head. Let the machine shop do it when they check it. They usually say something like ")(*&$*$^&%#$(**&" when they see scratches on it. And hopefully you have your wife's favorite quilt padding the hood!

http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar/headgasket.html Notes It's easier to have someone help you pull the hood. Then you can use an engine hoist to lift the head. The bolts for the swingvalve to the downpipe are easier to saw off than try to save. It's a good time to replace the O2 sensor since it is a bear in the car. Use MOPAR sensor ONLY. You are REPLACING the sensor so cut the wires and use a box end wrench for the best leverage. Hook another box end/open end to that one for gorilla power. I have a box end with the open end cut off and slip a 4' conduit on for easy removal. Sockets make it easy to get into trouble breaking the sensor before you get it out. It's a good time to get the valves and seals down when you get the head checked at a good machine shop. Be sure to change the oil afterwards. Note the thermostat mod Rus has on his site.

And here is an 8 valve not advertised on a lot. http://mysite.verizon.net/superdave369/TC/TC.html

This is about the third listing for it. Barret Jackson is where it should be sold. Did he show the pics of the underside with continuous frame rails and X rails added for torsional rigidity?

Not true. If someone rearends you, dig out all the receipts and total them. The damage has to be over 1/2 the book value plus receipts. I had this happen on another car. The adjuster for the guilty party rambled on for 15 minutes mumbling $800. Then I told him the engine had 552 miles on it, plus lots of other new parts. When no check came in a week, I called my broker and told him to put the fear of God in the adjuster. I got a call that afternoon that the check for $3,000 was at the body shop. This was on an 87 Chrysler GTS when it was 12 years old. Fix it or replace it with identical car.

The funny thing is Cadillac morphed the TC front clip. I almost tried to get in one once. It was parked next to my Cabernet and I noticed my car seemed to have gained a lot of weight while I had been gone.

a modern tow truck has a rig that will go under anything 3 inches high with no clearance problems. I think the warning was for some antique trucks that are no longer used. I noticed in "Driving Miss Daisy" that a modern lift was used on the car when it stalled. I guess the owner didn't want the bumper bent up with an authentic to the era truck! "My mechanic replaced the catalytic converter back in march, though, so that suggestion did click with me." Mine has been towed with no problem.................Except that the head gasket had just blown big time. The driver said water poured out the tailpipe when he lifted it.