65_wcat

Need help! I finally replaced the heater core on my '65 Wildcat two weeks ago. All was fine until the blower motor stopped working. I pulled the car out today and opened the hood. Luckily I did. I had the heat on high. When I opened the hood, I noticed a thin wisp of smoke coming from the electical connector at the resistor. I turned everything off, however, not before the top of the connector melted! At least I noticed this before a fire erupted. Anyhow, after about an hour of testing, it seems that the blower will work if I jump any of the wires from the connector diretly to the blower. Is it safe to say my resistor gave out?? If so, does anyone know where I can find another one???? I need the resistor for non-a/c cars. Also, does any one make new wiring harnesses for these cars?? Thanks. Greg BCA# 38869

Glad to see someonelse inherited one of these great cars. I've always loved full size Buicks. My first car was also a 72 Centurion Formal Coupe - Royal blue with black vinyl top and interior. It was was my grandmother's. She bought it new and had it for 12 years. After my grandfather died, she gave it to my father as she needed a new car but could not part with the last car my grandmother/grandfather bought together. The car was fully loaded, a/c, cruise (which worked!), p/w, p/locks, p/seat, rr defog, trip set, speed alert, am/fm 8track, rallye rims, pinstriping, front fender light monitors, cornering lights and map light. It too had the protective side moldings. Of course it had the 455 and at 18 years of age, you can imagine how much fun I had with. Many of my friends were surpirsed just how fast "a boat" could be. In fact, they came to nickname it "The Beast" I drove it for two years. However, things started to go and as I was in college, I had to get rid of it (couldn't afford to fix it and had no place to keep it!). I currently own a '65 Wildcat convertible (my dream car, my parents had one when I was kid - it too was passed down from my grandmother to my dad). As much as I love that car, I still miss my '72 Centurion. I'm glad to see there is some interest in them. Somehow they seem to have been forgotten. I particualrly like SMARTINS '71 convertible. Just thought I'd share. Greg

Thank you both for responding. I will say that the two upper windshield pieces were pretty badly rusted and will require a bit of restoration. I had also brought the hood lip and trunk lip mouldings as well. They wanted $125 ea, to rechrome those. They had small pits but no rust. As I mentioned, I'm not sure what the going raet (if there even is a going rate) for these types of services. I do like the fact that I don't have to ship them and risk having them lost or damaged via mail. I'll see how these parts come out before I give them anymore business. Greg

I just dropped off 9 pieces of trim to be rechromed: (2) upper interior windshield moldings, (2) interior windshield side moldings, (1) interior mirror bracket, (2) quarter window moldings and (2)convertible visor brackets. The total cost (w/tax) was $575. I have no idea what this should cost. By way of background, I live in Long Island, NY. As far as I know there are few places in the NYC area that perform chrome plating (envirnomental laws). The place is convenient to my home and they do the work on site so I guess there is a cost savings for shipping. I want to get other parts re-chromed but I don't want to give this guy anymore work until I'm sure I'm not being ripped off. Thanks for the help. Greg BCA #38869

Anybody know if the vent windows are interchangeable between the coupe and convertible on a '65 Wildcat? Thanks. Greg BCA#38869

I agree with Budd. If you've got a lead or can help someone out why not. I'm sure all of us have been helped by someone when trying to restore our old Buicks. I know I have. Especially Ted Nagel. Very knowledgable and extremely helpful. I just met a guy last Friday driving a '69 Lesabre coupe when I had my '65 Wildcat conv out for a ride. He pulled right up next to me and asked "Hey, where do you find parts??? I need a windshield". I told him the same thing I tell everyone: join the Buick Club of America. If you've got a need or a problem, these people can and usually will help. After that, e-bay, old buickparts.com, Wheatbelt Buicks, etc. Let's face it, there's just not as many sources for repro parts for Buicks as say Ford's or Chevy's. Although it can be problematic at times, it adds to the mystique of owning a Buick! ( in my opinion anyway) Greg

I tend to think that they are not, but I figured I'd ask. Are the vent windows on a '65 Wildcat convertible interchangeable with the coupe? Thanks. Greg

Thanks for the response. Actually, I'm using brake fluid. That's what was in there before. However, I may have found the problem (or it found me???). It appears that part of the frame mechanism was binding. I finally got the top to go up almost normally. However, I heard a loud pop. I noticed that one of the frame screws on the left side rail had sheared off!!! The top went up much faster however, one of the side hinges would then dangle off the side when the top was raised. I have a bandaid on it now, but I need a new screw. Anyone have one??? It looks like a large flat head screw on the interior of the frame. It goes through a plastic bushing and has a lock washer and nut on the outside of the frame (you can see it as the top is folding down). If I remember right, there are two similar ones on each side rail. Thanks. Greg

Thanks for the responses. I can try bleeding it again. The lines looked fine, fluid looks like it' smoving in both directions. Any chance the top mechanism itself needs to be adjusted? Anyone out there ever done it before???? Greg

duh!!!!! I'm so used to checking out this forum that I automatically placed it here. Thanks for the head's up. I just moved it!

I've got a very frustrating problem that I hope someone can help me with. I decided to replace the top cylinders on my '65 Wildcat. When putting up the top, the right side would come up pretty far and then the left side would pop up sharply. After tht point, the two sides would move in synch and top would come up normally. I didn't want to bend the top frame, so I decided to replace the cylinders. Now, after replacing the cylinders, it struggled to come up once. After that, the right side would lift up a little but the top wouldn't come up at all!!!. If I gently lifted the left side while my wife hit the switch, the top would eventually come up. I've replaced the pump, bled the system a few times (don't see any bubles in the lines, even oiled the hinges, but to no avail. The top does go down smoothly. Any ideas?????????? Thanks. Greg BCA #38869

I've got a very frustrating problem that I hope someone can help me with. I decided to replace the top cylinders on my '65 Wildcat. When putting up the top, the right side would come up pretty far and then the left side would pop up sharply. After tht point, the two sides would move in synch and top would come up normally. I didn't want to bend the top frame, so I decided to replace the cylinders. Now, after replacing the cylinders, it struggled to come up once. After that, the right side would lift up a little but the top wouldn't come up at all!!!. If I gently lifted the left side while my wife hit the switch, the top would eventually come up. I've replaced the pump, bled the system a few times (don't see any bubles in the lines, even oiled the hinges, but to no avail. The top does go down smoothly. Any ideas?????????? Thanks. Greg BCA #38869

Check out e-bay. There's a black one being auctioned. Greg

Is the car a 2 door, convertible or 4 door? Also, would you have the plastic windshield washer bottle that mounts on teh driver's side fender? thanks. Greg

I have a '65 Wildcat with the 401 as well. How do you know when you need a new one? Thanks. Greg

Thanks to both of you for the reply. Larry, I was surprised to see that I needed a proportioning valve too. Seemed odd for drum brakes. I would be interested in the distribution block. If you don't mind, please e-mail me with your address (gjh6801@cs.com) and I'll send the money. Also, any other pitfalls I should be aware of when I start the conversion? Thanks again! Greg

I'm hoping someone out there has already done this: I'd like to convert my single master cylinder(Delco Moraine)to a dual. What is involved in making such a conversion? I believe the first year to use the dual master system was 1967. Can I use the master from that year? I think they used a Bendix unit. Do I have to change the power booser as well? Thanks. Greg

My heater core finally went. I found antifreeze on the interior mat (luckily it wasn't the carpet) and leaking from the engine side. Hoses are tight so I'm pretty sure it's the core. Anyone ever replace one on a '65 Wildcat? How hard is it? The service manual says to remove the fender. However, I think the hood hinge is bolted to the fenders as well. Is there any other way??? Thanks. Greg BCA#38869

Thanks to all for your responses! I found out that CARS Inc relines drums. However, they want $225 each. Found an NOS set of front drums on e-bay. Just about the same price. A bit steep, but for the piece of mind when I hit the brake pedal, I figured it was worth it. Thanks again! Greg

Anyone know where you can buy replacement front drums for a '65 Wildcat? IF they are no longer available (which is my guess) can be relined? If so, wher can I send them. Thanks Greg BCA#38869

Looking for a place that sells the fuel gauge sending unit located in the gas tank for a '65 Wildcat non-a/c. Thanks. Greg BCA#38869

Anyone know where to buy replacement drums for a '65 Wildcat? I understand that they no longer manufacture the aluminum front drums. Are there cast iron replacements? Are they any good? Greg BCA#38869

Looking for the heater blower resistor and wiring harness for a '65 Wildcat non-a/c. Would you have one? Greg