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Ken/Alabama

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Posts posted by Ken/Alabama

  1. Thanks Peecher for the reply. Are those pistons Ford V-8 pistons or are they V-12 pistons made to the 3 1/16 Ford size. If they are V-8 Ford I was just wondering about the wrist pin size and what has to be done to use them. I have a 42 block and could go this route.

  2. I was always under the impression that under no certain terms should the unibody ever be removed from the frame.

    I have a 37 Coupe that I also need to replace the floor pans on from Bradley. Had always thought removing the body would be best for access, but I see you actually replaced the pans first then removed the body in order to maintain rigidty.

    I however would like to (if possible) brace the body where necessary, have the body dipped, then do the metal work.

    How difficult are the factory body-to-chassis welds to remove?

    Jim

    Its quite a job to say the least. Since I had to install new floorpans that makes it a little easier because when I installed the new pans I didnt weld them back down to the frame,that will be done when the body goes back on the final time.So with the new pans in there half the body is aready loose from the chassis. I drilled and knocked the rest of the welds loose in the trunk area and where the rear wheel wells lap over the side of the frame rail. This is the 2nd 39 Zephyr I have done like this . I would not attempt to remove the body with rusted or weak floorpans or the body sills that run down each side of the body underneath the doors. If all that is good I dont think the body is going to do much flexing,those Zephyr bodies are pretty rigid. I am in the process now of mounting the body on the rotisserie. I will post some pics when I get it on there.

  3. Yes, I have saved several other photos of your Zephyr.

    In 2003 I was working on a 1939 Zephyr Convertible coupe and I was collecting everything I could find about 1939 Zephyrs.

    It's a small world!

    Where was the Zephyr located when you took the pics ? I have often wondered what in the world fell on the front end of this car. Its all repaired now but what ever it was sure did some damage. Cant wait to get it on the road again. I removed the V8 that was in it and it will have a V12 once again with a Columbia two speed. I would like to see any other photos of this car that you have.

  4. It looks like you have a nice pair of 1940 Fords as well!

    While sorting through my 1939 Zephyr pictures (I'm a pack rat!) I came across some old photos. Is this your 1939 Zephyr?

    Thanks, I have three 40s,Coupe , Convertible and a Fordor. That picture is in fact my 39Zephyr. A friend of mine bought that car from N.Y. area a few years back and I got it from him. I have replaced the Floorpans with new ones from Paul Bradley and rebuilt the lower portions of both doors and the lower extentions on the quarter panels. Now that the body is back solid and sound I have removed it from the chassis. Is this the only pic you have of the Zephyr? If you have one of the front you will know that something has fell on the left front fender and the engine compartment side panel. I have that repaired now with a replacement from a donor car.

  5. The tapered upper and lower roller bearings are the same as used in the big Ford trucks. Part #81T-3571. the upper race is BB-3552, the lower race is 81T-3553. The seal is 81T-3591. I think I have these bearings,race and seal numbers so you can get them locally,I will check on this.

    As far as the rest of it,like was mentioned by someone else,its not available.

  6. It could be the starter solenoid. They get burned and pitted inside and build a high resistance . The starter has to work a little harder when the engine is hot and that extra load on the soleniod could be the problem. Happend to me once on my Ford,same symptoms.

  7. The shims are there to set the pre-load on the worm bearings, adding shims or thicker shims will lighten the load and less or thinner shims will make the load heavy or stiff. The shims are nothing more than gasket paper,I made my own. The adjuster on the top is to set the lash between the worm and sector. As it is adjusted it makes the sector move up and down to run deeper or shallower in the worn.

  8. Just finished working on a 48 Continental When the owner brought it to me it would barley run and wouldnt start when hot. Replaced points ,condensers, caps,wires and new plugs . When I strobed the distributor with the new points the points started to bounce around 1000 rpm. These points were bought new from one of the vendors but they are junk,the springs are really weak. Replaced the half of the points from a set of V8 Ford points. Now it runs perfect and cranks very easy when hot.

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