Indy Reatta

First thing I would do is change the fuel filter if you haven't lately. If you have, I would put a fuel pressure gage on it and see what kind of fuel pressure you have. I don't have the specs in front of me that it should be around 38 PSI and increase slightly when you goose it a little. If fuel filter is good and you have low fuel pressure, most likely the fuel pump needs replaced which is in the fuel tank.

I would question the 3/8" spacer that you put between the ignition module and the aluminum bracket. I don't know this for a fact but my suspicion would be that the ignition module is designed to transfer excessive heat generated by itself into the heavy cast aluminum bracket and therefore needs to mounted directly to the bracket for proper heat transfer. Does anyone know for sure?

I had a similar problem with a motorhome. Traced it to an aftermarket radio that had the wire that is intended to be hot only with the ignition on wired to be hot all of the time. This had been done so that the radio could be played with the ignition off. Even with the radio turned off, this lead was drawing too much power. I've slept too many times since this to remember the numbers for sure but I'm thinking that most cars draw around 20 MA just to maintain memories. It runs in my mind that this radio was drawing over 100MA on this one lead with the radio turned off. Of course, the radio also had a separate memory lead that was intended to be hot all of the time. The battery would last around 2-3 weeks. Robert's advice above is right on the money. If you find that the car is drawing excessive current with everything turned off and pulling fuses doesn't isolate it, I would try disconnecting the alternator and see if that changes the amp draw. A bad diode in the alternator will draw current. Good Luck!

I have used Hagherty for many years. When I showed my local insurance agent the information on them, he picked them up as a company that he represents. I have never had a claim with them.

I have a 90 coupe red, black mldgs, tan interior with a sunroof. It now has 155K miles on it and still runs and drives great. I drive it as my daily driver unless there is a lot of snow or salt on the roads. In my 1.5 years of ownership I have replaced the digital dash, brakes and calipers all the way around, accumulator, brake pressure switch, fuel pump, fuel pump and brake relays,complete tune up, tires, headlight motors and bell cranks, rebuilt the sunroof, replaced the headliner, power antenna, horn buttons, intermediate steering shaft, recharged A/C, etc. etc. Sometime in the near future I should replace the timing chain, water pump, all coolant hoses, serpentine belt, and possibly the belt tensioner. Also the roof is starting to fade toward the front and the clear coat on the painted plastic pieces is separating or something so a paint job would be a nice thing. Sometimes you can't afford a CHEAP car! LOL I also have a 90 red/black/tan parts car that has 180K miles on it that has front end damage. I have since sold the digital dash and radio out of it along with using the ignition module myself.

Thanks Sahein for the reply. To the best of my knowledge the motors have never been taken apart. I will try spraying the outside first and if that doesn't work I will take the door panel off and spray the inside. Thanks again for taking the time to respond Jay

I have recently come to the conclusion that the "book value" has very little to do with selling a car. The only thing that matters is what someone is willing to pay you for it. I tried all summer with no success to sell my 75 Eldorado convertible which is an exceptionally nice low mileage car. A friend of mine called yesterday and had bought an old car price guide. When he looked up my Cadillac we found that my asking price was more than $5,000 below what it was worth according to "the book" and I "still" own the car. Bottom line, it makes no difference what the book says. It all has to do with having it priced attractively enough that someone who has the ability to buy your car will decide that it is worth the personal bother to them to do it. For instance, your car is worth less to me because I would have to go to the personal "bother" of driving from Indiana to Florida to get it. Your car will have a different "worth" to each individual. That is why there is ultimately one buyer at an auction. Furthermore, it makes no difference what people think is "fair and equitable" if they are not able or willing to get their wallet out. Fair and equitable is achieved when you are willing to accept what a potential buyer is willing to pay. Just my 1 cent worth.

The passenger door interior lock moves harder when it is cold outside and often does not completely unlock with the remote. Am curious if there is a certain detail that typically needs cleaned and lubed to correct this. I guess I'm assuming that it is the stiffness of the mechanisim and not weakness of the electric lock motor. Anyone have any experience with this? It's just a nuisance but I hate nuisances.

Thanks Reatta Guy for the info.

Reatta Guy, I am intrigued at 16 cars for only $1,000 a year. Can you share the restrictions and coverages? I have some collector cars insured through Hagherty which I had thought was very reasonable but now am not so sure. With Hagherty, they require specific pictures of each car and you agree up front on the stated value. I forget the mileage limit but it seemed ample. The cars have to be stored in a locked building, no drivers under 25, and the car(s) insured through Hagherty can not be your only licensed and insured vehicle(s). The policy is a one year policy with no deductibles and is approximately $6.00 per $1,000 of stated vehicle value. There is also a $57 premium for the following coverages regardless of the number of vehicles: Liability: $300,000 per accident Uninsured and Underinsured Motorist BI: $2,500/person,$5,000/accident Medical Payments: $5,000/accident

I've always been a little bothered that the turn signal chime has never worked on my 90 coupe since I've owned it. One of those things that I wanted to look into sometime just because it was broke. I think you all just talked me into being HAPPY!!!

My choice would have been silicone dot5 also since it doesn't absorb any water. The semi-synthetic said that it can be mixed with or used in place of dot3 and was a whole lot cheaper than the racing brake fluid mentioned above and readily available. My opinion is that a lot of times you gain no benefit by buying the "best" when the duty cycle doesn't come close to requiring it or benefiting from it.

What are the thoughts on using semi-synthetic dot 3 brake fluid? One year ago last fall when I replaced all of my brake calipers and the accumulator I flushed and filled it with a semi-synthetic dot 3 that if I remember right was made by Valvoline. It was reasonably priced at Autozone. I chose that because of the low water absorption claimed on the container. I haven't had any problems yet. Anyone have any experience or other thoughts on semi-synthetic brake fluid?

Am not sure that I agree with the idea that Reatta owners do not mix well with enthusiasts of other vintage of automobiles. I know that I've been surprised at the vintage iron owned by the various members on this site. I think it would also be interesting to know the average age of Reatta owners. I have a hunch that me with my graying hair would be one of the YOUNGER owners suggesting that many of us grew up enjoying the now labeled "vintage" cars. I dont think there is anyone that enjoys driving their Reatta more than I do but I am also just itching to start a restoration project on a 1929 Packard Convertible Coupe which is basically a roadster with crank down side windows rather than side curtains. Not sure that I have the spousal support, time, or financial resource for a project of this magnitude but I sure would love to get started. My point is that I think many of us have a much broader interest than just one era of automobiles. Please excuse any typos. For some reason, when I post on this forum, I have to type slow or my computer misses key strokes. It's really annoying and hard to catch all of the omittd strokes. Anyone else have or had that problem?

I contacted Copart today and was told that the car will be auctioned and that you have to be a licensed dealer and registered with them to bid. That probably leaves the majority of us out.

I removed the headliner in my 90 coupe to repair my sunroof last summer. The only things that hold the headliner board up around the sunroof opening is the "U" shaped lace around the sunroof opening, velcro, the sunroof switch, and the dome light. there are several strips of velcro in various places holding the headliner board up. Hope this helps.

Please e-mail me with the asking price for the car. I have a 90 coupe that needs front end parts. Thanks Jay Green usgreens1@aol.com

If you are still interested in selling your car, email me at usgreens1@aolcom.

I am interested in buying your car. I have a wrecked reatta that has a good engine in it. Please email me with your name, email address, and phone number along with the status of the title. Thanks Jay Green usgreens1@aol.com 317-852-6469

I changed mine last fall and I'm sure all I used was a 12" adjustable wrench in through the right front wheel well. I didn't take the belt off. I can't remember if I even took the wheel off. I do remember it wasn't a bad job at all.