jw24spec6

wow what a response, you guys are great. first i dont think you can put an enamel undercoat under laquer it will wrinkle bad. pot lifes vary on the primers as well as pricing. if you need a little more time pour the primer into a container and put it in the beer fridge in the garage. it may slow it down a little dont try to wait a long time or the catalyst will die and the primer might dry poorly. the newest primer from sherwin williams comes in colors, it sands really nice but costs alot of money around 200+ per gallon. if you dont have the budget for that they make some really good generics that are two part, like evercoats primer, marhyde makes one, five star, etc check your local jobber. the reason i dont like laquer is that is basically just like styrofoam in make up it melts just as fast. as far as making paint smooth any of the new stuff is more work, lots of rubbing. i talked with a few people and we dont know how long the epoxy sat before paint. the epoxy is fine for the chassis but you might want different stuff for the body. try an etch primer then a two part urethane primer, sealer and topcoat. try and use the same companys stuff all the way through , at least from the sealer up that way you dont have any reactions time to go home jim

Not knowing what brand of paint you used ill just guess. Alot of the chip resistance is handled by the sealer coat on the new paint systems. you need to read the manufactures data sheets as to how many mills of sealer they recommend. And im sure this will get the older guys going but dont ever use any laquer primers period they have no stability as far as chips go and are just terrible under the new paints. the other thing you might try is hardener in the base coat this cross links the base to the 2 part sealer and to the clear. When i refer to sealer i dont mean the primer you sand, i mean sealer its different. As far as over hardening the paint thats an old wives tale, there are only so many molocules to cross link once that happens the remaining cayalists just die and the paint really stays soft from the excess. good luck jim

jim owns a body shop just like you discribe, all the way down to the to busy for long term paint jobs thanks

welcome greg thank you jim

i agree that people do not have any idea how much work show perfect is or the price. i find most people want show perfect but have no idea the level of commitment to keep it that way. i really enjoy people doing thier own work and i see alot of good work they have done. i always tell people old cars are nothing but sanding, sanding off rust, blocking and priming, colorsanding. the prep is everything and if you take the time anyone can make a car nice. jim

i agree good attitude jim

i agree with you, if its really staight why put extra mills of a surfacing primer. to much film build isnt good. spray a good activated primer sealer for hold out and paint it. first thing research your paint brand, read the literature from the manufacture they print it for a reason. it has gun setups reducer selection, all of the stuff that matters. it has the application directions, ask the paint supply for the info. if you dont have the experience dont play chemist. if it tells you to wait 15 minutes between coats at 70 degrees at a percent of humidity and its 45 and raining you need to know if it will work and how long to wait. good luck if you need info let me know <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

i realize that prep is everything and expensive and quality is based on price. i just bought a gallon of white urethane and hardener it was 240.00 wholesale. my point was that restorers care more about your money than you car. i told the shop 7000.00 minimum and they dicided that i was way over priced. i just painted a car for my mom and the material was 1000.00 for the primer paint and clear. i know that a good restoration is very costly. im just tired of seeing people getting hosed paying a broker big money for driving the car around. another thing the shops seem to get the body work done poorly heavy filler, brass, wavey, just poor quality. im sure that thier are great shops out there but most i have seen run this way thanks for the conversation jim

and just think someone got paid to do that one before jim

as a body shop owner i can understand how fast the cost of restorations ad up. i have noticed that the local "restoration shops" are very unorganized contractors. the shops dont plan out the restoration and waste money.they also sub out work to the low bid. we have one shop that charges 10000. and up to paint the car. he then calls shops like me and wants it painted for 2500. with no reguard for material quality and then ends up sending the car to a discount paint place and bad mouths the local painters. im only bringing this up because im tired of seeing good people laid away buy bad restoration shops. contract your own work, check your people out real well and know how much you want to spend. jim

i need all four inner door lock knobs for my 24 spec six also looking for rear foot rest, rear arm rests, bud vase thanks jim

Hello, i own a body shop and have painted for years now. The problem you have is that most solvents that will remove enamel will remove lacquer also. You can try a mild solvent like an enamel reducer or prep solvent. As with any experiment try it in a small spot. Another trick i have used is oven cleaner but it might screw up the laquer im not sure. good luck jim

what year car is it off and is it brass

thank you for you response jim

does anyone know if the cowl lamps on a 24 special six had porcilin sockets or metal. i have both but was wondering which were correct thank you

im looking for either cloth wire or rubber coated that looks correct to rewire a few items on my car

yes they look like the first one. some of mine dont have the knobs jim

im looking for pictures of original upolstry for my 24 special six 5 pass sedan. its upolstered know but is not the best fit or quality. its tan mohair but is real sloppy by my standards but may be great by original standards jim

im looking for all six window handle. mine have lost most of the knobs at the ends. thank you jim

my car runs in the cold, but it wont warm up, then it loads up real bad and is hard to drive. i put card board in front of the radiator and heated it up to operating temperature on the manometer, then i drive it without the card board and it cools down and runs rich, also the trans is a four speed with a reverse lock out any ideas