2seater

Buick Collector, thanks for contacting Ken. It's the only way we can get this moved up in the schedule, but realisticaly, it' a small market and not geared for performance like the GN's etc..

I thought about a check valve in that line too but it will trap vacuum between the check valve and the modulator causing the line pressure to be low and soft/slipping shifts will probably result. You need some sort of bleed off or remove it and try again. Yee Haw! Any idea of the boost pressure you are seeing?

I had sort of the same problem when I tried mine with the O2 sensor in the approx. original position. As soon as the engine temp. came up so it went closed loop it ran terribly. mine was even further away than yours. I looked at the stock GN location and it is just before the turbo inlet so it will stay hotter. The turbo uses a lot of the exhaust heat to make it work so it will definitely run cooler. One other reason to move it would be to avoid any additional possible exhaust leaks ahead of the sensor which will give a false reading too.I relocated mine to before the turbo on the front pipe, plus I am installing a heated three wire sensor. First solder the connection and see if that works. I am so envious. Mine is still in storage and it's 4deg. below zero F. right now. I figure it will be two months before I can try mine. By the way, it looks like the compressor outlet isn't connected to anything? <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Those look like like BCM codes, at least the first four do. Are you reading these through the normal diagnostics? The lower case "b" may be mistaken for a six. 446 and 447 are low refridgerant pressure which don't seem to be unusual when the ambiant temperatures drop. 482 is low brake pressure, 552 is set if the power is interupted, such as disconnecting the battery. I think the other two may be the air bag or SIR codes, but I cannot be sure. They should read as an "s" but I have seen "r" come up on mine as well. If they are "SIR" codes, 025 is a short in the steering column and 026 is an open in the column. 061 is set if the fuse or SIR bulb is open. The BCM does connect to the anti-lock system but most of the codes for the anti-lock are read from the orange brake light flashes after shorting the connector in the ALDL to ground.

Sorry, I made an assumption. I don't know how the Ford system works but if it similar to ours, there is a reference signal in the wire which is either added to or drained by the O2 sensor. I'm not sure how a simple resistor in the line to ground would do the trick since the amount of current flow in the line as well as voltage would be required to determine the proper value? If he wants to experiment, maybe a variable resistor or potentiometer could be slowly dialed up or down to see if the light goes out. I never tried to measure the resistance of a properly operating O2 sensor, but I would think the value would constanly move around. Maybe Padgett has some idea.

Why would you need to do that? The O2 sensor on our cars is forward of the cat. and doesn't care what is downstream. If you have problems with the O2 sensor "going out" due to lack of heat, you may be running too rich. One possible solution would be to install a heated three wire sensor, or correct the rich condition. I haven't had a cat. for several years with no apparent problems. Can you get a reading from the BLM or Fuel Integrator?

I bought the pump and billet aluminum regulator at the GS Nationals in Bowling Green last year. If I remember right they were $95-$100 each. You can probably find the same or similar stuff from vendors that link with the Grand National forum, http://www.gnttype.org/ or Thrasher. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I had a trans. cooler blow inside the radiator a long time ago, but it should overfill the cooling system in short order if that were the case??? A qt. a day should leave something under the car from air flow, if not in the exact spot of the leak. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

You should be able to replace your stock in tank fuel pump with one from a modern S/C car. I bought a high flow Walbro in tank pump and adjustable pressure regulator for mine but haven't installed them yet. Either one has more capability than the transaxle will probably handle. I thought about a seventh injector also, the Grand National boys did that years ago before they figured out how to make large injectors run well with control in the chip. One other possibility is the free set of injectors I have from a Ford 351. They are rated @ 22# at our stock fuel pressure. I don't know if the stock computer will run them succesfully or not but they may be worth a try.

You don't have to crawl under it to get to the connection. It is at the top front of the transaxle and is a round 5 or 6 pin connector. If I remember right, it points straight forward. The wiring to the switches in the transaxle wraps around the top and rear, but the connection to the ECM is at the front.

Four small ones would be sweet.

It might be a good idea to check your fuel pressure with that Chrysler calibrated regulator. In the fuel injector website I have been using, many of the Chrysler's list fuel pressure @ 55 psi. That's a good thing to a certain extent, if you need more fuel for the turbo for example, it will make the 18.8# injectors we have, act like they are a little over 21#, or enough fuel for approx. 250hp @ 100% duty cycle. http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

Thanks Howard! It doesn't look too different than my project, although I am going to try blowing through the MAF, but it may end up being relocated. I see where they relocated a couple of things I will need to move also. Much appreciated.

I found the photo so interesting I sent it on to a friend with a turbo Regal. He says it looks to be the correct block and said he could see where the turbo oil drain hole is plugged (I can't see it). He also noticed it does have the cam sensor like the older 3.8's but the valve covers are different, which look like his '93 3300 engine in his Century? I wonder if they did the same thing with the heads as they supposedly did with the '89 turbo Trans Am? They used later model ones which are more compact for clearance. Sorry to wax on about this but it is of great interest to me. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for posting this Howard. I stuck the photo in my editing software and lightened it up but the turbo is still hidden, as a mater of fact it looks normally aspirated. It doesn't look to be intercooled although that may be hidden also. It also looks like the anti lock was sacrificed to make room and that rear crossover looks to be from a 3800. Cool <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

Wow, that's a big tire for a 16" wheel. 235/60 is almost a perfect match in the 15" size but will be 1.1" taller in the 16" size. This will make the speedo a little over 4% slow or 2.5mph @60. Expressed another way, it will change your 2.97 axle ratio into a 2.84 effective ratio.

High 13's is possible with a stock looking late model Regal. I have seen two Regals and one GTP run 13's at Bowling Green the last two years. The one guy I struck up a conversation with had a free flow single exhaust and cat., the left headlight was removed and a sealed air box installed behind it, some sort of chip or reprogrammed ECM/PCM, small pulley on the supercharger, he had the front springs pulled down to reduce the rise of the front end and drag radials. It was a very plain looking Regal but went like stink.

I don't know if anyone has actually measured it but I did ask when I had mine repaired several years ago. This was apparently an educated guess based on the outputs, which was 7-10 watts RMS per channel. I don't know if this is accurate or not but I installed a Pioneer CD/radio in it's place which is only 17 watts rms per channel and it is way more powerful.

I've had one in my '90 for three years now. The best results are with other modifications as well. By itself, they do a little for the top end but everyday driving is essentially controlled by the sensors. Full throttle is where they can make a small difference, as to is it worth the price??? There was a thread a short time ago about this same subject and I believe you should do the other things first, such as a good cold air intake, open up the rear exhaust manifold, etc... Possibly remove the cat or install a high flow one if this is not feasible. Just for information purposes, I had the timing increased above the setting in the 91 octane Fastchip. I sent it back and had the cooling fan set point lowered at the same time as the timing increase. This does seem to help throttle response in normal driving although the stock chip and 87 octane works pretty well as it is. Only testing will tell you if you have really gained.

I sympathize with you on this question. There don't seem to be too many hot rod types in the Reatta family. E-mail direct if you would like to discuss some things that can be done without getting into the engine.

It's not really a governor, (which controls engine speed) but is called a speed limiter and it is part of the programming in the stock PROM. It can be removed from the prom if desired.

Hey Padgett, I knew you had stuff for diagnosis and the touchscreen cars do offer an advantage the later ones don't have. All of ours can take a snapshot but I have been looking for continuous readout and recording for my turbo project. It is primarily useful as a tuning tool for modifications, hence my interest. This post is of course a bit selfish, as I have been waiting for a long time for it to be available, and I have talked to the developer at the last two GS Nationals. The way it has worked in the past is upgrades for newer vehicles are available as they are developed. Frankly I am a bit surprised this may happen for our engine as there seems to be approx. zero support in the aftermarket for the 3800, except of course the S/C ones.

If anyone is familiar with the Turbo Link used by people for tuning their Turbo Regals and GN's, they are now developing a system to work with our cars. It enables continuous readings and recording of data from all sensors and allows playback at the speed of your choosing and in many formats. I am posting this to see if there is any interest in such a device. I have seen it work and have been after one for my own use but the limited market has kept development behind more mainstream applications. An order of five units would move the development up and the price would drop. Regular price is expected to be $275 with a group purchase in the $200-250 range. This does require a laptop/notebook computer to run and record. Any interest? This is the link to the website: http://www.turbo-link.com/

I would be interested to see if anyone has really used this product. I seem to remember a post a short while ago from someone that had done so. I guess I have a hard time understanding how this could possibly work in our application. The purpose seems to be to induce turbulence in the air stream, which isn't a bad thing in itself, but the entry to our MAF has a honeycomb ahead of the sensor and air passage that will straighten it right back out. Our MAF doesn't read the entire air flow, but it infers the total flow by measuring a portion of it through a second passage and I believe it needs smooth laminar flow to operate properly. If it could be installed between the MAF and the throttle body, turbulent flow "should" be able to turn the corner better into the intake ports, particularly the ones closest to the throttle.

JCWhitney has stuff like that but I must echo Barney's "why"? By the way, where in WI?