56 Buickboy

Here is a picture of the 1956 original clips. Ross

Hi Brian I cannot confirm which you need as I have a 1956. Interesting though the same rubber is listed for hardtop and sedan and if I remember correctly the sedan glass is nearly 2 inches taller than the hardtops? Hopefully someone can confirm. Regarding trim clips mine were also beyond use so I found a good second hand set from Buickbonery but getting harder to find in good condition. Ross

I too am upgrading my 56 Buick front suspension based on this crankshaft coalition article below. My car was far from roadworthy when purchased here in NZ. I wanted to modify the front end for disc brakes , the ability to add more caster and camber, lower the car and improve the steering with a Delphi steering box. It is still a work in progress but the box is mocked up and currently working on the lower arms. http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/1937-1957_Buick_Oldsmobile_Pontiac_suspension_upgrade I also have the June 95 Rodders Digest article swapping A-arms on a 55 Pontiac using 58 Pontiac lower arms. I imported 58 Pontiac lower arms based on the crankshaft coalition article and will be using CPP 30101 dropped spindles from a 65 Impala. http://www.classicperform.com/Store/1955_1970_Fullsize_Cars/CP30101.htm When I mocked up my front end I found the 58 Pontiac lower arms are a direct bolt in but approx 2 inches shorter than the stock 56 Buick original lower. One article somewhere suggested just move the A-arms out 2 inches from the centre, but that will cause bumpsteer. The article above has been modified to say the arms are in fact different lengths on some models.? I have found an engineer who will lengthen the 58 Pontiac arms to correct the ball joint placement and ensure good geometry. More information A great article on here from Dan. http://forums.aaca.org/f118/1957-buick-super-build-339266.html http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107777 http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitListFront.aspx?year=1956&make=Buick&model=Super&modoption= http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215512 http://www.fatmanfabrications.co/products/mii/mustang-ii-frame-stubs/ fatman make a frame stub to fit a Buick. Hope some of this is useful Ross

(Posting on Tom's behalf, price $795 but see text !) ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Forged Pistons, Group Buy!! Nailhead Guru Tom Telesco is teaming up with RaceTec Pistons to offer customized forged pistons for our 401/425 Nailheads. Final specs for your order are not needed at this time, but a deposit to hold your place is needed soon. Deposit due by Jan 31, 2014. Here's your chance to get strong, forged piston sets made to your specs. Primary benefits are strength, optimized quench and compression ratio to produce efficient combustion to reduce detonation and maximize power. Low drag and lighter weight configurations available. Details: - Diameter will range from 4.1875" (401, std) to 4.350" (425, 0.0337" over), but is limited to available ring sizes. - Material is 4032 forged aluminum. Perfect for street use since it doesn't expand much when hot..piston-to-bore clearance can be kept at a tight 0.0025" to eliminate piston slap on cold startups. - Durable for race use.... - Features a thick 0.300"upper ring land to withstand nitrous and boosted applications. - Compression height/pin height made to your specs for optimum Quench/squish distance. - Weights will start at a stock 950 g, with lighter versions available depending on your configuration. - The valve reliefs will have enough clearance for 1.94" valves - Compression ratio/ dome height made to order, from 0.330"- 0.550". - Pin diameter. 0.927", 0.980", 0.990" or stock 1.00". Pressed or full floating. Pins made from 5100 steel. - Ring sets, included in the deal, would be Hastings, Perfect Circle, or Total Seal. Cast iron or Moly top ring. - stock 5/64" top/second, 3/16" oil. Moly or cast iron. - or Lower-drag 1/16" , 3/16" oil. Moly or cast iron. - custom rings avail at extra cost. As of this moment a complete package will be $795.00 until the end of Jan. 2014. includes rings, pins & pin fitting. $500 Deposit due by 1/31/2014 2/1/14 & after will be at least 10% more. For more information, visit V8Buick.com http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.ph...r-the-Nailhead! or contact Tom Telesco directly: Tom Telesco Classic and Muscle Automotive 465 Glenbrook Rd Stamford, CT 06906-1820 Day Phone 203-324-6045 ET NailHead Mini-Starters '53-'66 Adjustable Roller Tip Rocker Arms - All NailHeads "If I can't get it, you don't need it!" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Ross <!-- / message -->

Pete, (or anyone else reading) I am looking for a posi diff from a 61 or 62 Fullsize car. I know this may be difficult given the location / situation of the car but any leads or help in finding one would be much appreciated. Thank you Ross Wildbore rossandhelen@xtra.co.nz

email sent, Thanks Ross

1955-1957 Chevy Vent Window Regulator, Driver Side 1955-1957 Chevy Vent Window Regulator, Passenger Side these are chev ones but they look identical to my 56 buick parts, it may be an option. Ross

I purchased a new front windshield with tinted band from: Rodney McCormick Classic Auto Management 7560 Stage Road Buena Park CA 90621 714 228 9280 was back in Jan 2009, cost $225, not sure where he sourced it from. Rodney also suppled new side glass and rear windshield, was well packaged. Hope this helps Ross

Please can I buy some of your CHEAP fuel. Here in NZ we are currently paying $1.29 per litre which if my maths is correct works out at $5.80 per gallon. Maybe that is why there aren't as many Buicks on the road over. Although while our dollar is strong a few more are being imported which is great.

An owner of a 57 Buick in NZ has used Mid 80's Chev Truck discs (PCD is still 5x5) and machined the spindle and hub to suit taper roller bearings. He used Wilwood callipers and an early 90's GM master cylinder. I understand that 94-96 Chev Caprice/Impala rotors can also be adapted to fit. Obviously a caliper bracket would also have to be fabricated. I have also seen a tech article on www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/99358/ that covers a 60 Oldsmobile conversion.

The fender was easy to remove as I already had the front bumper, grille and associated parts removed as I was stripping the car for a rebuild. I am unsure whether the fender could be removed without removing the other items first, but I doubt it as the grille is bolted to the front of the fender and wraps around it.

OOPS, Sorry Lamar I overlooked the email when the J-bars arrived, so pleased to see a real set. I also found another pair of J's that I am waiting for so hopefully I'll be able to have some created or have some to sell/return. I haven't had much time for this site recently, too many other things happening. I will try and post some pictures over the next week of the car developing. A "Kiwi" is a small native flightless bird that only comes out at night, a name adopted by "New Zealanders".

The heater core on my 56 Special sits in a heater box attached to the outside of the firewall, on the passenger side of the car, tucked in behind the inner guard. I am rebuilding my car and the easiest way that I can see for you to remove it is by taking off the front fender (mudguard). My heater core box was attached with about 6 screws which were covered in underseal. I have some photos of mine apart if that is of any use.

I am the fortunate guy that purchased the J-bars from Lamar. I had been looking for 3 years and in that time discovered 2 sets and paid for them but sadly they "got lost" in the post. We have some clever Kiwis here in NZ so I am also looking at the possibility of having some recreated. If I have any success you people will be the first to know.

I have seen used sets on Ebay occasionally but they normally reach quite high prices or are in poor condition. New sets are available from www.coker.com or www.wheelvintiques.com

Have a look at http://printweargraphics.safeshopper.com I bought a Buick customs t-shirt from them. It is listed under street rods. The service was excellent. T-shirt is very colourful and has 4 different model Buicks and seems to be good quality.

I took my old straps and hooks to a sheetmetal fabricator and they made 2 stainless steel straps and hooks for around US$25. They look nice and won't corrode.It maybe an option for you.

The problem is possibly a loose wire or terminal on the back of the fuel gauge or at the fuel tank sender unit.When the car is running there maybe enough vibration to make the terminal connect and disconnect, causing the fluctuation in the reading.When the car is not running the terminal is steady and gives an accurate reading.

Have a look at www.cmwauto.com. They list electric wiper motors for $180. They are in Oregon and have many other Buick parts as well.

Thank you both for the advice. I was curious as my car seems to have had a hard life and most panels had something different. I see that CARS Inc also lists quite a selection of trim clips, but I will try and source a suitable replacement locally.

Can anyone advise what the correct fasteners/retainers should be for the stainless trim mouldings on the doors and fenders on a 1956 Buick. I believe they are meant to be push in clips, but mine were retained with nuts and washers. Does anyone have a part number or know where the originals can be obtained? or will general panel clips be suitable? Any advice appreciated.

Have a look at www.transmissionadapters.com They have the parts needed to fit a later model transmission to the nailhead. Regarding the rear end, it will be a matter of engineering a 4 bar type linkage and fitting an open driveshaft. Have a look at the forum on www.buickstreet.com A guy nicknamed "Pappy" has done exactly what you plan.

On my 56 2-door sedan all the main stainless mouldings that run from the front to rear of the car were fastened by nuts and washers holding the trim clips. The trim clips slide into the mouldings. They are accessed from behind the fenders and inside the doors,you will have to remove the interior trim panels (front and rear). My clips were all rusted so alot of them snapped or spun when trying to remove them. It may pay to spray some lubricant on them first and leave them for a while. The trim under the side windows was just a push on /lever off type clip.

I have a 56 two door sedan. I have recently stripped it for rebuilding. The clips for the stainless mouldings under the side windows on my car look nothing like the new one you have shown us. Hard to describe, but about 7/16 inch square, with rolled piece top and bottom that the moulding slides along, and with an expandable "n" shape that pushes into the body holes. Hope this helps. If you need further I have a photo but of poor quality.

Can you please double check the e-mail address. My email came back showing no such address. Any help appreciated. As I live in NZ it is easier to email than phone. Thanks. Ross.