bigsteviejoe

The car came with H rated tires, I would not stray from that. I love my Fuzion ZRi's to death for the price they were, (the HRi H rated version has a treadwear rating of 400) , and the LeMANS HRs that came when I got the car lasted for 40000 miles (in summer and winter) they were rated for. Even the ZRi's cost less than the Michlens.

Sounds similar to a condition mine had. You can see if it is pinging while you drive in service mode. [climate screen , hold one finger on "warm" another on "off" , the screen will change to Service Mode, you can skip the codes by hitting no, then ECM? yes, ECM data? yes, and then use yes or no to scroll through to OLD PA3, then you can observe if and when the number increases, 9999 is bad] Pinging under acceleration will retard timing and the car won't pull very well, which will cause it to downshift, the rpm goes sky high but the car dosen't seem to be 100% Continuous pinging I read will cause the coils to go bad. In the end I replaced a whole lot of stuff... After a new fuel pump, a good ignition, plugs, wires (damaged by me ) O2, computer reset, that an uneven flow from the injectors can cause pinging and for the BLMs to remain around 128 (some are richer, and atleast one is lean) Good luck

I'm happy to report that I received the delco module yesterday, installed it today. Used 3 replacement coils, the car ran a lot better, switched the wires, reset the computer, the car is now getting proper fuel economy. Although I find if i really step on the gas, the computer is seeing some knock. Should I be concerned? Other than that its running pretty much like a new Reatta. I still have declogging fuel additive to use. Thank you very much Padgett for discovering the Delco swap.

Well I was going to wait till I got some results, here is what i have so far. The fuel pressure was low. The pump was going bad. Causing the car to lean out, the computer was trying to compensate but things were getting progressively worse. I took the car in, had the plugs replaced, O2 sensor replaced, the fuel pump replaced, I got the car back, car was running rougher, although no knock, and the BLMs and INT seem normal, the computer has not been reset. The opinion at the shop was that the junk magnavox was bad and/or possibly some of the plug wires (one was loose), they replaced the loose one with an OEM. Today I switched out 2 more magnavox's, bad and bad, its like the car is running on half the cylinders, it idles rough, at 1200rpm is it shakes the whole car, I'm waiting on the delco ignition to arrive. The hoses under the cover look fine. I noticed today that there are delco ignitions with green connectors and ones with the orangy-red connector. The one with the orange redish color has the same amount of pins as the magnavox. How likely do you think the wires are the culprit? I've had an igntion module make the car sluggish, but fine for cruising speed but never so bad like these, its like the car is running on 3 or 4 cylinders. Sounds like its about to die. Zero knock count though.

Turns out the junk magnavox is crap. (It takes a couple tries to start in the morning) BLM is 145 - 150 Fuel Int 138best - 155 It knocks with any kind of rpm over 2000rpm. Has anyone else experienced a maxed out knock count? Whats typical knock count for higher rpms? Would a clogged injector kill a plug and overload the ign. coil? My mechanic put a can of decarbonnizer in the intake, whole lot of crap came out the tail pipe, the car got more responsive, and the fuel integrator and blms dropped to 138s under acceleration, 120ish coasting, there was an injector cleaner additive put in the tank as well. I still need to get the O2 done, but it seems the effects of the decarbonning is wearing off real fast (only after one day). I just want to see what else will probably need to be done. I have another delco ignition on the way over off of ebay.

I tightened the bolts, although I'm not sure if there was a good ground in between the module and the mounting plate. I see that the magnavox is 2 parts. I've seen a coil develop a bubble on the side a coil, yesterday there was a slight bubble in the green goo of old magnavox igntion module. Was that likely from the failing coil pak, or was the module going bad. Its the module thats expensive. F14crazy How long have you been using the Accel supercoil? Can the supercoil use larger gap plugs?

I'm trying to figure out what went wrong. I was getting horrible mileage the last 2 weeks, 26 mpg highway tops, but mostly 22 mpg. Figured the magnavox was going again (its been 3 years), cuz the car didn't start right a few times. Went to wrecking yard picked up a complete delco module, wrecking didn't think it would work. I examined 3 of them, all appear to be missing one pin in the middle, and the plugs were green. My mechanic also suspected it would not work. Everything went smoothly putting it in, but when it came time to start, engine cranked, no fire. Is there something I missed? Some fiddling around? I jiggled the connector, no success, I gave up and traded for a junk magnavox I needed to get to work. The install is actually very simple, at first I was worried that i wasn't getting enough details, only glitch was it didn't fire. Sucks cuz the junk magnavox isn't perfect either.

Main problem with Roots blower is the discharge temps are too hot which causes detonation. A CSC having a cooler discharge temp should remedy most of that problem, plus with CSC you can intercool, the M62 currently has no aftercooler available. If you install a more aggressive cam you can lower intake charge temps. With all that, colder spark plugs, colder tstat. aux fan, a good radiator, 24# injectors may or may not be enough. Series 1 SC has 28# injectors. With 24#, no tuning, the colder temps may be enough, the injector pulse width may be wide enough. But theoretically you'd definately benefit, especially if you want lots and lots and lots of power to go to bigger injectors and if the computer's calibrations can't make things close enough, have a piggy back make the proper adjustments. MAF skew, O2 monitor and manipulate to keep computer from adjusting and the rest just involves keeping the transmission from grenading or melting down. Check it out Can get lots of cool stuff here (they got cams!) www.seriesoneperformance.com Can get an idea of what it will be faster than here http://www.bonnevilleclub.com

I wouldn't trust high end speakers with the Reatta's amp. The sound quality can only improve so much without an aftermarket head unit. I find if I turn the music down real low, engine off, at no point is there silence but constant "ffffffffff" even when the radio muted, it goes away when the radio is off.

The reatta's amp won't have the capability to run after market speakers well enough. It'll blow speakers, it won't play loud enough, might even overheat. What speakers do you got?

The one thing I find is I get a lot of feedback on the wheel over any kind of imperfection in the pavement. A 235/50/17 tire on a 7.5 inch wide rim with 40+ offset is the way to go if you don't like the extra feedback or torquesteer. I think it would look better too. Fuzion Zri 245/45/17 17" Ronal R25s 8" wide 35mm offset I have my other set of Ronal R25s on now (see the pic) Turning at speed is unreal. I might enter one of those time trail events, its so good.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> You will have to drill out the holes annually. </div></div> What is the reason for that? How about "way less dust than before"? I just found out my stock wheels with Goodyear 215/65/15 Ultra Ice weigh about 46-47lbs. New combo, 22lb + Fuzion ZRi 245/45 27lbs = 49lbs

There are a few things: 1) Compression ratio, newer L36 9.4:1 ours 8.5:1, newer is more efficient 2) Peakier cam on the newer, to compliment higher compression ratio, more air 3) Bigger air filter 4) Better flowing intake manifold for N/A 5) Better electronics (O2 sensor, knock sensor, ECM) to monitor engine more precisely allowing for more aggressive programming/tuning to be used 6) Better flowing exhaust systems 7) 15 years of R&D

And at full lock. It appears the wheel being positioned 3mm further out keeps the inside corner of the tire tread away from where the plastic slants in towards the tire even though there is more swing radius. I haven't really tested the brakes that much. Its hard to tell. The car doesn't pitch forward as much due to the stiffer sidewalls, and I have yet to screech them. Diameter is .3" smaller. I will weigh the stock wheel and tire size, when i get them back.

another pic

I was pleasantly surprised today to find that 245/45/17s do not rub against the wheel wells of my car. Alternatives would have been either the kind've skinny 225/50s and not really recommended for 8" wide rims or the .7 inch diameter less 235/45/17s.

Tried a used 235/50/17 today. It was so SO close to fitting. A new 235/50/17 certainly won't at 35mm offset. 40-41mm offset stands the best chance of working. Only at full lock did it touch, it looked real good, just slighly more diameter than 215/65/15. The outside corner comes into contact with the door side of the wheel well at full left. 225/50/17 would work, but I like how 235 width looks on the rim. 245/45/17 probably too wide given this offset, and the problems others have had trying to fit them.

The way I look at it is that the width of the stock tire is 8.46 inches, so the rim being 8 inches shouldn't have an issues as long as the inside is fine. The outer edge of the tire will be .8 inches wider. So as long as there is no interference with the inside that would require large spacers to fix, I can't see the wheel moving that far foward and back if they're close to pivoting. I just want to make sure I don't buy tires from 2 different sources in the event 235/50/17 doesn't work.

ah ok, so it sounds like things will be just fine the way it is. I will report on what happens.

Hello, I haven't posted in a while, but I thought if I could get some speculation on this issue from those who have fitted different rims onto the Reatta. I got a set of the millenium finish 17" Ronal R25s back in the fall, which are 8" wide and after reading from the search, I'm a little concerned about clearance because 7-7.5" widest example given. The offset is 35mm. I want to try 235/50/17 for tire size. Comparing rim with to orginal tire width, I'm within 215mm Diameter: 225/60/16s are 26.6 235/50/17 = 26.3 Are the tires going to be sticking really far out by the end of this?

Swapping in the SC Series III is way too expensive. Think of what Reatta values are now. . . the Series 3 is listed at $3500. $1200 for 4T65EHD $600 + install for an LSD so you don't grenade the tranny You'll still need a better exhaust system $$, but the cost will be similar either way. If the reprograming works, it will be ok, not optimal, for 260HP and you won't be able to change shift points on the fly, if you're thinking of interfacing another GM powertrain harness or whatever. Genuine GM parts, guess what the dealer will charge. I have have put lots of thought into more power for the Reatta, here is what I have come up with. If you try to save, in some areas, you are going to spend more in other areas. My master plan. .. Instead of buying a 2nd hand motor, I want to REbuild the Reattas Vin C the right way, like the GN, like in the Turbo article. Forged cylinders can be made in many varieties, probably better than what GM put in the GN. If I went this way, reliable vin C made more reliable and for more power, nothing in the reprogramming reverse engineering would have to be done. Piggyback lies to ECM, MPG guage may be inaccurate, i can't see how any other readings would be screwed up. Better efficiency will come from: larger exhaust valves for better cam, 4T65EHD with LSD controlled by programmable multi map TCU, aluminum performance rad, high flow cat, mandrel exhaust, fixed or custom headers, 180stat, a super fan with on/off OR stat switch, intercooled, slightly lighter 17s which I will unveil when i can get a photo (after winter goes away), running closer to optimum A/F. Would 35MPG highway be attainable on premium provided all those were done, 10-14lbs boost? Trying to get more power with similar fuel economy. In the end there is lots of new and better than OEM stuff which you can then tune with a laptop. Made stronger, more powerful, more reliable, more affordable than trying to shoehorn series 3 or even a second hand L67. The real benefit of the reprogamming, is that it would make the super expensive independantly controlled fan not needed, and the tuning with the piggyback would then be more precise.

I have the 6 way seats. Right now the passenger side, the left motor that lifts the seat from the front of the seat, is stuck in full up position, everytime I try to lower the front of the seat, I get diagonal creases in the leather, and the chair goes crooked laterally, literaly. Has anyone encountered this? How can I go about fixing this? Is it expensive?

I found that just tapping the windshield wash button does the single sweep. Its when you hold down on that button that the wiper jets spray.

I haven't looked at the RC-calculator lately, but based on the power output vs injector sizes, even though the computer goes up to 170gm/minute, the supercharged 255, it seems that the Reatta computer was programmed to underutilize injectors. Probably cuz the FI was still fairly new. With hi end Reattas and they didn't want to jam or overheat the injectors. Right now Tranny control units, or the last I saw were $700. Reboring a the 3800 for power, will probably equal the cost of turboing or dropping in a L67 with oversized injectors. From then once you have a close size of injector, in this car 24s seem to have issues with boost, i feel its just a matter of tuning, with a universal piggyback. The rest is pump & regulator. The N/A engine just right now doesn't get enough air, in and through it. I think of it as a sleeping giant. All it took was a little compressed air. For intake, hard core intake, you'll probably have to go pretty radical to get some kind of result, 1 or 2 cones, in front of rad, mandrel bent pipe, then maybe angle cut the leading edge of the pipe where the cone is supposed to go is shorter, the back longer, angle it so the cone is slightly angled forward so goes in hits the pipe and goes in. Maybe tape up a portion of the backside of it so air can't escape through the back. With 2 cones just build in a Y in the piping if possible. As a agressive a CAI can get. Worst case: putting CAI in front of rad and it isn't enough, you have plumbing for an intercooler . Those 24 valve engines, do freakish things compared to the C or even the L. GM Ross got a well designed all round cam, with in mind that he might boost sometime. Boost involves a less aggressive cam than street NA engines, so you can go more agressive. Instead of 10% more, how about 13-17% more. And then you have the miniscule exhaust. At the very least make sure the rear manifold restriction is gone. HIGHest flowing cat., 91 or custom mandrel catback, highflow muffler. The cooling system sucks as is. I really need to be getting rid of the front plate soon if this weather continues. Should I be worried at mid 220oF? Will water wetter help lower temp much? Programmable fan, or high fan switch would be useful. A well placed vent that they put on hocked up ricers may help keep the engine from getting so hot. You can lose 6-7 lbs of rotating mass per wheel, if you get good cheap lightweight rims even if you went to 16s maybe 17s. I can't see how this cannot give some sort of seat of the pants improvement, not only in acceleration, but braking. You benefit from having 12-14lbs less of rolling mass, acting as drag, end result less tire spin, cuz there's less inertia. Helps transmission too, less inertia the tranny has to go against from having to turn heavy drive wheels. Maybe I'm overstressing this but with 1/10th scale RC cars, rotating mass vs non rotating was factored like 10 times normal mass. Unsprung weight is also reduced. There's light weight lugs too but from there you only lose a pound and air tools are a no no. I don't really have any idea of which is lighter, more rim less tire, or less rim more tire? Only thing after that the only thing I can think of is have the intake manifold massaged. LOT®'s

I would also add, if you put it on Ebay, make it available to Canadian buyers. I can't buy what it won't let me bid on.