MrLiken

Does anyone know John aka "ak"? I have been trying to pm, call, e-mail but no luck.

Thanks so much David. Just what the doctor ordered! Any thoughts on using StaSoft? I am not familiar.

I have finally gotten to the point where I am getting a top made. Can someone tell me what these attachment points are for? I am guessing the straps. Any photos will really help me with getting an authentic looking top done. As many know, 26 years in the making on this restoration. Early car, so I am demanding authenticity. Thanks, John

I've been meaning to post this video on my viscosity experiment and now is the perfect time with your question. I struggled with this same thing for a very long time. I went online and ordered a 5 gal bucket of Steam Cylinder Oil, as I read on another forum that was recommended. I changed out and still had the grinding. I found 1500W Gear Oil at Restoration Supply Company in Escondido (San Diego County). I poured both into clear water bottles and stood up paint sticks. Play the video at https://youtu.be/U-cYRRsyp7o The oil on the left is the Steam Cylinder Oil - The oil on the right is the 1500W - I read here to mix with heavy chassis grease, so I measured out the 2 qts of oil and mixed in 2 tubes of chasis grease. For the most part, my shifting problems have dissapeared. Thanks to the members here for mostly great advise!

Thanks all. It was a weld with old and new damage. Apparently, I tightened the new rubber belt too tight. I had it so that it would not slip. I have the radiator at a shop now and he is going to blank off about 8 tubes on the rear. He doesn't think it will effect the cooling at all. I just need it to make it through the season with shows almost every weekend now, then will do a proper re-core. My next question has to do with the fan. The hub is getting repaired having new bushings inserted because it was pretty sloppy. As most here know, the cars' output is approx 35 hp. How critical is it to have the fan/blades true and who does that work if in fact it is critical? My radiator shop seems to think it would be, but has no idea who to do the work. I am searching for a replacement fan, but I'm sure there are no NOS fans out there, so anything I get will most likely need to be balanced. As always, your thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Try again. I had the settings on my album set to friends. I wouldn't think that it would affect something that I posted though....... Let me know.

Doug, I have used leather in the past, but just recently changed to rubber. I may have had it a tad too tight. There was no rust on the break. So, you mean loose enough so that the fan will "slip" when the engine is off?

My fan hub suffered a catastrophic failure yesterday on the way back home. Does anyone have thoughts of what happened? I contacted Brassworks here in CA and told there is a 10 week turnaround. So much for the rest of the touring/show season.. I will take it to a local rad repair shop to see if they can solder/seal the core to get me through October.

Here is a photo of numbers stamped into my front axle. It reads E 9785 DB 14. Looking in the Master Parts List, I see on page D-2-1 Part # 409785 for a 4 cyl from 320006 to 929894. Now I move to page 0-3 to see that the letter E - 300,000. So in theory, shouldn't my axle part # be 309785? These are the strange things that I am just not wrapping my brain around ever since I got this car and trying to figure out its' origins for the replacement parts.

Can anyone out there send me a high quality photo of a good DB Johns-Manville black face 115H? I need to have a graphics person replicate for my speedo. Also, any suggestions for finding the arrow indicator?