TCParts
-
Posts
261 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by TCParts
-
-
AY,
The radiator that was sent to KY was recored by a supplier in Phoenix that has been in business since 1955. Installation of a 1989 TC radiator takes no more than 15 - 20 minutes and you should not have to pay $250 for a repair that takes such a short amount of time. Are you SURE that your car does not have a restriction in the thermostat, and that he flushed and burped the system properly? If the engine block was full of crud and the mechanic did not flush it and replace the thermostat the crud could clog the new radiator in a short amount of time.
All our parts are warrantied, so if there is a problem with the radiator the supplier will repair or replace it.
-
Helge is Hemi's other profile, so Hemi is the one who suggested the swap. Personally I have not had any problems with rear caliper availability or issues with high cost for new parts. Rear brakes are easy to change and repacking the wheel bearings will prevent some of the bearing/spindle problems some TCs have been experiencing over the last few years, especially on lower mileage cars.
-
We have a family cabin up at Donner Lake, so take the trip a couple times a year. I've driven a TC topless when there was snow on the side of the road and the fresh air is wonderful. Driving a turbo instead of a V-6 up those grades is a whole lot more fun....
-
Unfortunately, the V-6 model radiator does not fit the 4 cylinder models. AS you found out the V-6 ones are easy to get, the 4 cylinder ones are note. Some unscrupulous suppliers charge over $300 for the 4 cylinder ones.
-
Andreas,
The advantage of going through a legitimate supplier is that you can have your SMEC calibrated to what you want. There were 4 different versions of the 1989 2.2 automatic - a good calibrator like Chris at Turbo's Unleashed or Rick at RDI Performance can match the part you need to your specific engine. There is really no value in cheaping out for a unit out of a Daytona that can't even keep the cruise control working properly. Best, easiest and most efficient choice is to have yours personally calibrated for your engine (1988 or common block) and emission type (CA or 49 state). I hope you and your wife enjoy the ride through the Alps!
-
Contact Andy at TC Parts. He has recored ones, not imported junk.
928-386-0999
-
Contact Chris at:
-
Before so many people's ignorance of the program details puts more bad information on this forum, the Clunkers laws SPECIFICALLY exempts cars 25 years old or older from the program. The Administration is not "trying to get rid of all collectible cars". The fact that the TC, Reatta and a few other cars that are less then 25 years old are collectible are an anomaly, as their current market value has plunged so far over the last few years. Certainly, any car worth collecting *should* have a value of at least $3,500 to $4,500 in any market condition. There are no "partial rebates", only $3,500 and $4,500. I have read all 126 pages of the law and have experience in the transactions as the buyer of salvage vehicles. I suspect more "good" TCs are taken off the road by non-licensed, non-tax paying owners trying to make a fast buck off of parts than will be traded in through the Clunker's program. In addition, on most transactions the sales tax and registration fees paid on the new vehicle are almost equal to the rebate amount, so most of the rebates are *paid back* the day of the transaction.
If anyone needs to know correct, unbiased information, as well as the requirements of "road worthy" please do not hesitate to email me privately.
-
I have a pressure gauge and an ABS Miller tool I bring to TC America meets to assist owners with ABS problems. I've been doing that for a decade.... Rich and Sally Lane are experts at using the Miller Tool plugs to diagnose ABS sensor issues without having to lift the wheels off the ground.
-
Lou,
I'm not sure if you can tell by the numbers on the accumulators alone - I have never had the need to look at the numbers as I only use freshly manufactured product. I purchase mine along with a co-op of wholesale suppliers directly from the manufacturer in Germany - there is a minimum order of 100. We purchase the type that looks exactly like the GM ones and also the updated style that are slightly larger (which hold more fluid) but do not have the star tool removal assist port on top. The cheap ones on Amazon that are now being sold through GM direct or AC direct are in an AC/Delco box. No matter the build date, as far as I know they all should be in a sealed plastic bag. I do not know if nitrogen atoms can seep through the plastic bag, but that may be a reason why the bags do not inflate upon degradation of the bladder. On the exterior of the box along with the part number is says "Made in Germany, Federal Republic of". Any box that has that specific designation is over 20 years old. Once the box is gone (or if the seller removed the label) it would be difficult to determine if you have an old one or new one. I suppose there is a way to go through my personal cars and try to remember when I installed the accumulators and match the numbers, but it's far too hot to do that in Phoenix this time of year.
I've had my Citroens for decades - they use accumulator spheres similar to those on the TC ABS system for braking, suspension and steering. Original spheres are rechargeable and can be separated so the plastic bladder can be replaced. Some older models were brake fluid cars but the newer ones are all green hydraulic fluid models. All Citroen owners know that they need periodic recharging and it is a typical past time at meets. About 10 years ago a more "modern" sphere was marketed that could not be split open, so although recharging is possible, the plastic bladder could not be replaced. Those of us who chose the newer style spheres are now going back to the old style, as the bladder's life is still 10 years or so and we are having to replace them. The Citroens have 5 spheres each, which as you can imagine can get pricey when sphere changes are necessary. Fortunately, there were more than a million Citroens sold world wide so there is a market great enough to have a large number of high quality mechanics to work on the cars, make appropriate recommendations to fellow owners and members of the various Citoren clubs as to the care of the hydraulic system. As a TC owner, I can use the knowledge from these folks to apply the same knowledge to the Teves system accumulator. Unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge no separable or rechargeable Teves accumulator spheres are are available at this time, so I have to go off of what the TC engineers said is specific to our cars regarding the shelf life of our accumulators.
I obviously got a little off track here, but having fellow TC owners wasting money on parts that the TC engineers specifically warned us NOT to purchase, is not only a poor value but is potentially unsafe and ultimately will lead to the untimely elimination of more TCs than is necessary. I have passion for my cars and for the TC specifically and want to see them on the road for a very long time.....
-
Be careful when purchasing those "cheap" accumulators from Amazon or GM Direct. If the box says "made in Germany, Federal Republic of" or "made in West Germany", that means it was made in West Germany PRIOR to 1990 and has been on the shelf for almost 20 years. Back in 2000, Ed Peters, one of the head engineers in Italy for the TC project, was the keynote speaker at the TC America national meet and warned of buying any accumulators from Chrysler as they were old stock and had been sitting around past the useful shelf life of 10 years. The cheap GM ones are now twice that old. The accumulators are designed for a life of 10 years or 120,000 miles, whichever comes first. These old stock units may last a while, but will ultimately cost more in the long run.
The TC accumulators are similar to Citroen hydraulic "spheres" which need to be recharged every few years. The nitrogen leaks through the plastic bladder over time and ends up in the brake fluid, That is one of the many reasons the brake fluid needs to be flushed whenever an accumulator is replaced. In addition, with the loss of nitrogen pressure, the pressure pump in the ABS assembly has to run longer, creating premature wear and does not allow sufficient pressure for a full ABS activated panic stop.
Remember, the TC ABS system is NOT the same as one in the Buick Reatta or other GM cars as some people assert. They share some similar mechanical parts but all of the electrical parts are different and not interchangeable. If you need specific advise about the TC brake system, these forums are not the place to make informed decisions regarding a part of your car that could determine life or death for you or a loved one.
Perhaps I am a bit sensitive about this subject because a friend of mine just wrecked his TC after buying one of the cheap accumulators through Amazon because of the ill advise he received on this forum. His car will now be another resident in my TC boneyard.
If you need general advise about the TC brake system the Reatta diagnosis pages are a good reference but are not completely applicable to the issues the TC brake systems have. If you care about your car, your family or yourself, consult Hemi Andersen or another competent mechanic about issues that affect the safety operation of your car, as diagnosis over the internet is not as accurate as having a real mechanic touch and feel the parts that may be defective, or ask questions specific to your cars operation. Similarly, if you want quality parts, not cheap, expired junk, it is best to go through Hemi, TC Parts or a dealer who has fresh stock that carry a warranty and assistance in installation. Truly, when it comes to safety parts you "get what your pay for".
Far better advise is available though the TC America Newsletter. If you are not a club member I would encourage you to join the club and read the back issues which give significantly more accurate information than is currently available on the internet forums.
Larry
1964 Imperial
1977 NYB
1979 AMC Pacer
1970 Citroen DS
3 1972 Citroen D's
1981 Imperial
1982 Imperial
1990 Imperial
130 Chrysler TC by Maseratis
and some newer stuff
-
Mark,
We have been selling ours for $29 each for many years, and get them direct from Germany so they are not old stock.
-
Is this the same car that was sold through Copart recently? How drivable is it? They told me it would need to be towed out of the lot. Let me know - I'm interested.
Thank you.
-
Contact Andy at www.TCParts.com
-
We sell complete owner's manual kits (for your proper year) for $65.
-
We have a system new in box with instructions.
-
We sell those for $5 plus postage.
-
Mark, glad you are doing OK.
The fuel pump will last hundreds of thousands of miles if no contaminates get in the tank and the tank in not run under 1/4 full. Fuel pumps in-tank use the gasoline for cooling. Running low on gas overheats them and reduces the life as well as "oxy-gas" that is more than 90 days old and does not have Stal-bil additive. I lost one last year because I forgot to put additive in the tank when I stored it.
-
Mark,
Karleen mentioned to the group last night about what happened. Things are just not as fun without ringmasters Mark and Meryl.
Best wishes for a speedy recovery.
As usual, Alan has been putting in very generous overtime taking care of member's little engine ills. He should be appointed "The Surgeon General of the TC" for all his work....
-
I have that one Alan - I've had it for about 5 years. The car in Riverside was not a 5 speed as advertised.
-
Arizona Parts is NOT TC Parts. It is owned by Martin Kolner and he specializes in older Chryslers.
TC Parts sells NEW driver side headlamps for $500.
-
If your Hall Effect sensor (aka distributor pick-up sensor)is bad it will not show up as a code. Try replacing it. Takes 5 minutes. That problem is very common on TCs.
-
Alan,
I got my new C/V axles from Autozone for $99. My old tone rings just slipped on. No extra work needed.
Thanks for the complement on the article. Hemi must have had a little too much aquavit the night he did the "correction" on the Dot Lang forum, as the photo I had of the 8v had some type of rodent remnants holding the "butterfly" oops, throttle plate open. What a difference it makes in the performance of these cars. I did a few at the TC America club meet in Reno and the owners were very happy.
-
Craig,
Don't waste your time re-booting your C/V axles - you can buy new ones for about $100 for a Daytona or Lebaron and just swap the ABS tone ring for the sensor.... unless of course, you work in a tranny shop and can do the boots for free. ;-)
1989 TC Radiator????
in Chrysler's TC by Maserati
Posted · Edited by TCParts
Aditional information (see edit history)
Lou,
After installing the new radiator, Ann said her fan is still running all the time - even when first starting up. Her mechanic stated that he "could not see" fluid passing through the radiator. That is not necessarily an indication of a bad radiator, but of a restriction either at the thermostat, a bad coolant temperature sensor, a bad fan relay or the mechanic's failure to properly "burp" the system. People who do not own a 4 cylinder TC may not be aware of the special requirements of that engine compared to the easy to deal with V-6. See page 7-14 of the BLUE service manual in the cooling system section which explains why the plug on the top of the water box must be removed to release trapped air from the system.
There is a quick and easy way to test and see if a radiator is clogged. Take the radiator, put it on its side, upper hose inlet down, cap and lower hose connection on top and put a garden hose full blast through the lower hose connection. If water only comes out the top hose connection (which is at the bottom) the radiator core is clear and functioning properly. If water backs up in the core and starts exiting through the cap connection, then the core is blocked and it needs to be cleaned and rodded or recored. This process only takes a few minutes, and the amount of water that is put in the radiator with a garden hose is greater volume than the engine's water pump can push through the system. If your mechanic is unwilling or unable to do this simple test, then it is time to go to a different mechanic.