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Smartin

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Posts posted by Smartin

  1. Bill, if you are very familiar with color sanding, then go ahead and use the 1000 grit. It will work fast, so make sure you avoid corners and edges. I used 2000 on the 71 LeSabre last year, and it worked well.

    3M makes nice compounds for buffing. The compound I am using is supposed to be for 1500 and finer paper, but it seems to be working well. It is 3M PerfectIt 3000 rubbing compound 06062. It can be used with a machine or by hand. I highly recommend a machine with a wool pad to get the first run done. After that, switch to a foam polishing pad and some 3M PerfectIt 3000 Trizact Spot Finishing material 06070. This will remove the swirl marks left by the Rubbing compound. I wish I would've done the swirl mark remover on the LeSabre. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

    You can do through, and hit the spots you missed with the buffer, by hand. Be sure to remove as much small trim as possible, such as BUICK letters on the hood or trunk, or anything that will be snagged by the buffer.

  2. I did a little buffing today.

    I was stumped at the layer of old dirty paint when I started working this morning. The wool pad just loaded up with crap almost instantly. This was looking to be quite a project if I had to rub the entire car out by hand BEFORE I machine buffed it.

    BUT I had an idea. I just copied what I did with the 71 LeSabre last year. I looked through my box full of various grades of sandpaper, and finally found some 1000 grit paper.

    That did the trick! It takes off the dirty layer pretty quickly, and leaves a clean smooth surface for me to buff to a shine.

    The paint is in pretty bad shape. There a numerous spots all over the front end of the car that look like it was parked under a bird's nest, or possibly a tree that dripped sap all over it. Oh well, it'll be a good 20-footer when it's buffed completely.

    I also had the front windshield replaced today. That was $244 I wasn't planning on spending.

    I pulled the stainless trim on both the front and rear windshields and polished all the trim while I had it off. Gotta love that good ol' GM rear window rust!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

    Here is the car with just the passenger side of the hood buffed.

    buffing001.jpg

    buffing002.jpg

    Here is a comparison from the side, showing the buffed front fender, and the DULLLLL doors.

    buffing003.jpg

    more

    buffing004.jpg

    buffing005.jpg

  3. You know me too well... <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

    It'll get a detail job with the paint...I already cleaned up a spot on the right fender. It really cleans up well and shines under all that dirt and oxidation.

    As far as the interior goes, it'll get cleaned up, but no seat upholstery replacement...unless I magically learn how to sew seat covers!

    I'll probably clean the motor up a little, just to knock the dirt and grease off.

  4. It was advertised on the v8 board for a couple weeks before I made an offer to the seller...and it was kind of an impulse buy. I thought it was a good deal, so I pounced! And we negotiated a fair price...so I picked it up yesterday. He was even nice enough to meet me halfway <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> I bought him lunch, and I drove home doing 80mph on I-44.

    I think the wheels need to be balanced, but it holds the road well. There is a bit of a hiccup when I give it gas. I believe either the choke is sticking a little bit, or the accelerator pump is going south.

    It still surprises me that it has an AIR pump from the factory. It was originally a SoCal car, so naturally, the rust is minimal. It has the rear window cancer, but that's literally the only place that is bad. The interior is pretty much hosed. The door panels are ok, but the seats are almost completely degraded. The dash pad is cracked to hell...as is the steering wheel. The windshield has a crack right in my line of sight, which might cause me to have a fit if I have to have it replaced for inspection.

    Here is more information and pictures:

    http://www.buickcenturion.com/forums/showthread.php?t=140

  5. I've had good luck with Eastwood cast iron grey manifold paint. It's got the consistency of water...very weird to use - and very difficult to get off your hands.

    This is after about 3000 miles - still looks perfect. You can see the paint is burning on the heads at the exhaust ports, though. I got docked points for that at Rochester because the judge thought it was overspray <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/mad.gif" alt="" />

    lesabre_ebay016.jpg

  6. Time to bring this back up to the top. It's warming up in the garage a little bit, so I need to start thrashing.

    Probably going under the knife this weekend, only to return as a fresh complete detail. It's either start NOW, or wait until after Easter. If I start now, I will try to make my deadline Easter Sunday so I can show it in the big Easter Show in Forest Park. I have everything I need, with the exception of a little paint....so it should go fairly well.

    before.jpg

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