rocketraider

The TCS vacuum switch shouldn't cause overheating unless it is absolutely not functioning. All the thing does is eliminate vacuum advance to the distributor until the transmission is in high gear, or until the engine coolant temp is above 210-225 degrees. At that temp it allows manifold vacuum to the vacuum advance which will increase timing and help cool the engine, regardless of transmission gear selection. Disconnecting the wiring disables only the vacuum advance delay function. You will still have vacuum at the D port with the wiring unplugged from the switch. You're on the right track connecting vac advance to D port. Connect the MT port of the 3-port switch to a manifold vacuum source (intake manifold, factory teed it into the transmission modulator line), and the C port to timed vacuum (above the throttle plates- this would be the hose that was connected to the top of the TCS switch). Disregard the hose that was connected to the V port- all it does is vent vacuum back to the aircleaner housing and it will not create a vacuum leak if disconnected using the 3-port switch. You might check the vacuum advance diaphram itself to make sure it's working, as well as baseline timing. Both will cause overheating, but shouldn't be as rapid as you describe. Make sure the fan clutch is operating properly- you should hear a distinct roar when it engages. Hope all this helps. A hot 455 is no fun to live with.

Parts book lists 408983 as 1971 455 4BC except F85 or Toronado. 71 Toro is 408995. Since the Toro engine sits further from the firewall I'd say it's considerably longer than the 88/98 cable.

Not sure of a source other than NOS or a parts car, but they are called simply, louvers. They're used on 1972 and 1973 Royales- 72 had them on the quarter panel or rear door, 73 had them on the front fender. p/n 231426 (RH position 1,3,5,7; LH pos 2,4,6,8) and 231427 (LH pos 1,3,5,7; RH pos 2,4,6,8)

Your part # is: Group 2.410, p/n 410052, switch, dist. vac control on intake manifold, all 1971-72 V8. Here's the bad news. The thing fits 1971-72 442, and that crowd can be ruthless when one of these is found. I've seen people nearly come to blows over them at swap meets, and NOS ones will routinely go for $150 or more on ebay. Chris, I take it you know what the thing does, and in all honesty, unless you're going for a high point restoration, the car will perform better without it.

And might explain why our friendly Commonwealth made plastic plate covers illegal last year. Tinted ones had been verboten for several years, but last year the law was expanded to include any and all- even factory installed ones. Virginia has nearly 200 specialty plates available, and the law grumps about almost every new one that comes out. But the Commonwealth makes a pile of money off them, so they stay. The cops did manage to get the "Autumn Leaves" plate changed, but that one was hard to read as originally issued. As I have mentioned before- the police lobby is very powerful in Richmond. Second only to the insurance lobby.

Took the car on a 140 mile run Saturday with no problems. Only change was we had installed the NOS Delco VR. Thanks all for advice!

Check to make sure the alternator, power steering pump or water pump is not seized, and that all the mounting brackets are securely in place. The noise may also be glazed pulleys allowing the belts to slip. Use some 320 grit sandpaper or a brown scotchbrite pad to scuff the belt groove surfaces. Engine stopped of course. You could also have a fan clutch starting to lock up.

Intake bolts don't often give problems, but be aware that this is a heavy intake. I usually leave the heater water valve and thermostat housing on to have something to grab it by. I've had better luck with Victor/DANA gaskets on this application than with FelPro. Every FelPro I ever tried slipped out of the locator holes while trying to torque it, and then I had a water or vacuum leak. One I could understand, but after the third or fourth one did the same thing, then that's a faulty product and I won't use it anymore.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"road force" wheel balancer that applies a pressure to a tire/wheel to more accurately detect an out of balance condition. </div></div> Bryan- is that anything like an old on-car spin balancer like John Bean or Bear made?

I think not. Lots of differences in the 66-7 and 68-72 QP. Try goodmark.com and see if they have anything specifically for your car.

I hate to say it but this car sounds like a theft recovery/salvage rebuilt car, though it should be on the title if it is. I'd run that VIN thru Carfax and see what comes up before I sunk much money into it.

Curious as to what type of fluid you have in it. Jetaways were designed for Type A Suffix A, though I'm told they can successfully use Dexron I and II. Now whether they can use Dexron III without the whale oil additives, I don't know. Good luck- at least you don't have a Slim Jim!

All advance in the 1986 HEI is computer controlled. It may not even have weights. If you got one of those Mr Gasket curve kits you've wasted your money; never seen one work well. Crane has a distributor curve kit that works.

Umph. Another Glen, going by "Rocketrider". This is about to get weird... <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> There's another Glen Williamson here in town who fools with old Chevy trucks, so when the name is mentioned in old car circles here, people have to specify "Oldsmobile Glenn" or "Chevy truck Glen". Anyhow- welcome, nice choice of car. If the Mystery Oil doesn't work, pour some diesel fuel down the cylinders and allow to soak a few days.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Therefore I keep a copy of the Ohio Code section that permit these plates in the car at all times. It <span style="font-style: italic">should</span> stop a cop from wasting his city's tax money like this.</div></div> Didn't in this case Dave. I keep current copies Of the applicable section of the Code of Virginia in each car just for this occasion! I offered it to him with the license and registration, and was told to put it away as it was irrelevant. So now it will become relevant in court. There's a big stink going on here now about city police and esp county deputies' salaries, and the county sheriff has paid for newspaper ads saying his deputies can't make it on their current salaries, they're on WIC and food stamps to feed their kids, the county supervisors won't increase their pay etc ad nauseam. Why he didn't use that ad money to supplement their pay, I haven't figured out. It's well-known that the sheriff and two of the county supervisors do everything they can to discredit each other. Of course they haven't helped their public image either. They just shot and killed the third mental patient in as many years, so there's an uproar from some well-financed advocacy groups there. Police work doesn't have to be as dramatic as it is, and I'm convinced that some of these small-town departments have an insatiable itch to get their department on "Cops" or some similar show. Anyway- I'll waste a day in court, it'll get dismissed and the cop will get scolded. Justice served.

Took the Ninety-Eight out for a run to High Point NC tonight; they do a large cruise night there every Thursday. 130 mile round trip was good for the car. Enjoyed talking with the owner of a 1938 Packard Twelve Touring Sedan that was still missing most of its interior, but was roadworthy enough to be driven about 20 miles in. Impressive machine! and the only unmodified prewar car there tonight. With the interior out, was able to see the car's (totally replaced) wooden structure including the roof grid radio antenna. Only bad part of the night was getting pulled over and ticketed for no inspection sticker and no city license after getting back in town. Had stopped for a cold drink at Sheetz, and the city cops hang out there. Pulled the lights on me leaving the lot, and didn't wanna hear about the antique license laws. Then tried to tell me it had been changed to require the sticker and city license, which I know better. Finally signed the ticket to get rid of him, after asking twice, "are you sure of this?". Normally I would just go downtown tomorrow morning and let the white shirts handle it as I have done several times before, but enuff'znuff. I think I'm gonna go to court with it this time.

Pitman- here's the original 1972 part #. Grp 3.887, p/n 409130. See if a helpful dealer parts man can cross reference it to a newer diaphram. I'm thinking that GM typically consolidated parts numbers on stuff like this after so many years, and one for an 80s car would work fine and bolt right onto your existing bracket and actuator rod. Bookreader- remember that Oldsmobiles were typically a cut above when it came to gadgets. Their reputation within GM was engineering and gadget Division, and most stuff like Cruise Control, Autronic Eye/GuideMatic etc. were developed in the Olds engineering labs and then offered to Cadillac first, with the "lesser" Divisions getting it a year or two later.

All 1965 fullsize front bumpers are the same. Starfire/J-I had their own grille and headlight buckets, and early 1965 Starfires have a clear rectangular lens covering the headlights. Do you want factory-style A/C or would you settle for an aftermarket installation? For factory you'll need an airconditioned parts car and odds are you'd have to replace all the refrigerant components, so that would get expensive really quick. An aftermarket underdash box unit would get in the way of the console/tach, but you might be able to find a streetrod style system that routes the air outlets along the bottom edge of the dash and keeps the evaporator up behind it. I believe such systems are made for 1965-68 big Chevys, and all B/C bodies are basically the same in the firewall/cowl area. You'd need Olds brackets to mount the compressor, and see if the system can be fitted with a GM A6 compressor. I think (but not sure) that a Sanden compressor will mount in A6 brackets.

Try 442.com or oldsrocket.com . They may have more info. The Olds History Center (who would have the info) is pretty much defunct for time being. Any four-speed drivetrain is unusual by the early 70s. It would have been an ordered car; dealers wouldn't have ordered one for stock because of low sales potential.

Simple. Ditch the 305 and build a 350. It'll drop in like it belongs there, and for the same money spent, will deliver more power and torque. You've got a heavy car, and the ricerockets enjoy a good power-to-weight ratio. I don't think you'd ever overcome that handicap with a 305. (OK, I'll admit- SBC and esp 305s are not one of my favorite engines, but since you already have a SBC in place, we can forgive use of a Chevy 350.) You might want to look into rear end gears too. You can get away with 3.73 gears with a 200-4R tranny because of the overdrive.

Henry's right, the wheels are totally different from the standard wheels and are used only on that application according to Hollander (believe me, I've already been thru this adventure <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" />, but sure was hoping Buick or Caddy had a similar wheel). A set of 7 discs, 9 1965 centers and one wheel, all needing restoration, knocked out at $760 <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif" alt="" /> on ebay yesterday. I've got a bunch of the discs and 65 centers, varying from driver quality to junk, but, without the wheels <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> ... you get the idea. If you're interested, PM me, we'll talk. I've had them for years and doesn't look like I'm gonna do anything with them. Shipping would cost more than I'd ask for them.

1964 GP- installed a repro Delco DC12 battery today, everything looked fine. Drove car about 30 miles in 85 degree temps, got back, battery was vigorously boiling acid out the vent caps. Stopped as soon as engine was shut off. Checked voltage at battery terminals w/ engine running (and battery boiling) 14-16v depending on engine speed and electrical load as per shop book specs. Finally replaced 4 yr old Echlin regulator (that had been working fine with modern Delco maintenance free battery, and no stuck or burned points) with an NOS Delco part. Voltage at battery was still 14-16, but battery quit boiling with the new VR. I don't know enough about external VRs and vent-cap style batteries to determine why the battery boiled with the Echlin part. I remember people used to have to add water all the time because of this condition, esp in hot weather. Adjusting a VR has always struck me as a black art. Can anyone offer a simple explanation? Or tell us why the Echlin part did this?

Code 75. Also shows up as Spectra Red in mid 70s

Try 865-354-4695. That's the last phone # I have for him.

There are three different versions of these wheelcovers. The cast aluminum disc is the same on all, the center cap is different. 1964- N93 are for Starfire and Jetstar I and have a two-bar spinner center with 1964-style Oldsworld. N94 are for Ninety-Eights, Dynamic and Super 88s and have a large dished center without spinner, again with 1964-style Oldsworld. 1965 N93 were available on all full-size cars except Jetstar 88s and had a two-bar spinner with Rocket. Beautiful wheelcover if you can find the special wheels they mount on. I gave up and decided the wire wheel covers looked just as good. You find a lot of the cast discs with chunks broken out of the edge. Tire shops etc who didn't know what they were would try to pry them off and end up breaking them. There were also complaints they were hard to balance and required on-car balancing (anyone remember Bear or John Bean speed balancers?).