WCraigH

Yup, you could do it that way. I was just going to use a junk distributor instead, but this requires removing the teeth from the gear. If you tried to use the distributor without the gear, there'd be no positive engagement to the intermediate shaft.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If anyone has a Packard V8 distributor gear with bad teeth then sell it to me. </div></div> KevinAZ has a bad one, BUT we're going to use it and the distributor out of my CA400 for an oil pump primer tool. Meanwhile, I'm sending him the good gear out of the same car. If you and Kevin get on the PE Chat tonight, maybe we can figure a way for both you guys to use one gear.

Sounds like somebody sometime put an extra off-brand set of expanders in the ring box. I've never seen a double expander 3rd ring either. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip) When I got there, they popped off the hubcaps. UH-OH! The right front only had 4 lug bolts on it. The left front only had 3 lug bolts on it. And BOTH rear wheels only had TWO lug bolts on them. It's a wonder the wheels didn't come off when I was driving it home! I know I was doing almost 60 mph a couple of times.(snip)</div></div> Packard uses hub-centric support, not bolt-centric support. So, unless you were experiencing significant tenths of Gs cornering force, you were probably OK with as few as 2 lug bolts. But you were also correct in just flatbedding it home once you knew about it. Better safe than sorry. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

Unless it has hyperlastic computer-controlled Torsion-sideways suspension and is twin turbocharged with dual intercoolers with at least 750CID, I'M NOT INTERESTED! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" /> Even if they're giving them away [color:"red"] FREE!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I wonder if Adding an electric Vacuum pump to the Vent tube (draft-tube) would have the same effect on engine efficiency? (snip)</div></div> Well, venturi effect in the open header collector is "free", whereas an electric vacuum pump is not. OTOH, with mufflers attached, it would reduce if not eliminate the effect. Since the effect is <span style="font-style: italic">ONLY</span> 5-10hp at WOT, it's probably not worth the trouble on anything other than a dedicated drag race car.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip) Crankcase ventilation is an often-neglected aspect of engine performance, I think. Both excessive crankcase pressure build-up and negative pressure (vaccuum) I believe have performance consequences. I think ideally you want a "neutral" crankcase condition--as close as equal to atmospheric pressure as possible. (snip)</div></div> There is a measureable power effect to "evacuating the crankcase". Once cutting edge and now standard practice, NHRA Stock and Super Stock cars would air seal the entire inside of the engine except for large hoses (5/8" ID) on the top of each valve cover (V-8s only, natch). The other end of the hose is connected to an angled "venturi tube" inside the exhaust header collector. When at full throttle, the "venturi tube" causes a negative pressure relative to local atmospheric pressure, hence reducing the pressure inside the crankcase. Any ring or valve guide blowby is evacuated. Hence, there is less air pressure on the [color:"red"] underside of each piston resulting in greater [color:"red"] net force on each downward (intake and power) cycle. This is a measureable effect. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> IIRC, it was something like 0.05 to 0.10 second and 0.5 to 1.0mph improvement on my 1/4-mile drag car. But, if the sealed engine develops a significant leak, which is hard to detect, the effect goes away, something that may be difficult to troubleshoot. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

For obsolete engines (Packard & Pontiac that I work on), when you need more than just head gaskets, i.e., intake and exhaust and maybe front cover/water neck gaskets, it's about even money to just get an entire gasket set. Plan on $125. It's either highway robbery or supply/demand economics. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/tongue.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Mebbe while you're investigating you might scope out whether you could do a PCV conversion. (snip)</div></div> The 374 engine in my 1956 (rust bucket) 400 had a PCV conversion. This was accomplished by reversing the valley cover and routing the road draft tube forward rather than backward. It also had a thermal vacuum advance shutoff installed in the upper radiator hose. Both these mods were common in Calif in the 1970s for older, non-pollution control engines. However, I have no idea whether the PCV conversion did anything positive to the engine. When I take it apart someday, I'll keep that in mind while evaluating the "carbon crud" inside or lack thereof. One more thing, this 400 also had a Marvel Mystery Inverse Oiler which probably did much more for upper cylinder and valve oiling than any PCV, IMHO.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This weekend I'm going to rebuild the carburator in my 1955 400. It's totally original and has never been off the car, so I'm sure it's all gummed up inside. The accelerator pump hesitates when you start off, that's why I'm doing the rebuild. (snip)</div></div> My 55 Pat had the same problem. The cause was excessively worn holes on BOTH the pump lever and throttle where the linkage rod attaches. I corrected this by filling in both holes with JB Weld and redrilling the holes to original size. Don't forget to reinstall the accelerator pump well check ball. I found this problem recently in a 4GC that I evaluated for KevinAZ's 55 400. The 4GC had been "professionally rebuilt", but had a couple of problems, a missing check ball being the worst. Also, all 4 throttles have idle circuits, but only the fronts are adjustable. There are very small passages which are the first to gum up. Make sure these are all fully open and it should idle like a dream when you get it back together. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip)I have 3. My favorite is the 54 caribbean, (snip) Finally followed by... a late production 56 Four Hundred. I like thr 55-56 Caribbeans a lot but they don't offer enough over a 400 hardtop and history comes in for me on these cars. (snip)</div></div> Guy, gotta agree with you on all your points, particularly the 2 above. My 1956 Panther (it will be completed!) will pick up two styling ideas from the 1954 Caribbean: 1) I'll be using a 1953-54 Carib hood with the single wide scoop rather than the 1955-56 style dual scoops and 2) the rear wheel openings will be raised, but rectangular. The top of the rear wheel opening will be roughly at the extended line of the "spear" from the front wheel well opening. Of course, the T-L and V-8 are my favorites too! It seems many others agree! Why else would there be a very successful start of The Packard V-8 Club ??? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Having stated the above, I am a great admirer of all Packards, be they 1920-30s classics or the minimalist 120s. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

A seller called "wilddodge" is parting out (and I mean REALLY parting out, i.e., down to the last nut & bolt) a 1955 Clipper: 159 1955 Clipper items for sale In exchange for the "heads up", please don't bid against me on the [color:"blue"] 1955 PACKARD VENT WING WINDOW WEATHERSTRIP RUBBERS! My 55 Pat needs 'em bad. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">(snip) I have decided to order a set of good car skates to move the 'Clipper around in the garage. (snip) The ones from Harbor Freight just looked too cheap in quality. So I found a good set online that has 3" full roller bearing wheels. A little more pricey, but I figure I would rather spend the money once on a good set. </div></div> As a data point, I have a set of the "cheap Harbor Freight" ones and they have worked perfectly for many years. No argument with paying more for something even more robust though. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I've got an extra Delco distributor out of my 56 400. Email me to negotiate. Craig wcraigh@sbcglobal.net

Do NOT remove the rad cap when hot!!! Besides spewing hot coolant all over you, the engine and all the front body parts, it will NOT give an accurate reading. I don't know what pressure rad cap is used on a 49 (maybe 6psi?), but whatever it is, reducing the pressure to atmospheric changes the boiling point and probably the temp if over 212F at sea level. The best way is to purchase an aftermarket mechanical temp gauge and install the sender some convenient location in the cooling system. I don't know enough about the straight 8 to make a specific recommendation on location.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Craig, when is the next V8-Club meet? I vote for the last week in July, as I will be in Vegas that week. (snip)</div></div> Uh, yeah Kev that's a really good time of year! Usually Pahrump is about 3-5deg cooler than Vegas, so it means that instead of 116F, it'll only be about 112F here. You buying the ice and beer? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Fortunately, I don't have to commute to work anymore, but if I did, for instance, have to do a daily drive from Pahrump to Las Vegas (75 miles 1 way), I would certainly do what you guys have done: get an older foreign car that's a beater but is reliable and gets great gas mileage. On my occasional solo trips to Vegas, it's a tossup on whether to drive my 1955 Pat or my TurboForce-equipped 1976 Firebird. Both get about the same mediocre mileage, but I get lots more looks and cool conversations in the Pat than the Bird. Plus the Pat is a LOT more comfortable. Nah, it's not a tossup after all! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

IMO, the best place would be to "T" off the front of the driver side cylinder head where the outlet for the bypass filter is located. Do NOT plumb it so that the gauge is after the fitting in the head because that is (or should be) a restricted outlet. Instead plumb it so that the restricted (stock) fitting is AFTER the "T", but still goes to the filter (of course). The other side of the "T" goes to the gauge. That particular location is the lowest pressure in the engine. In contract, the pair of outlets next to the distributor (one plugged, one with existing sender) are essentially the highest pressure in the engine and do NOT really tell you what is going on downstream. As far as measured pressure, I would be concerned with any reading below 15psi at hot idle. The max reading should not exceed 50psi and probably will not exceed 40psi on a good used engine.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there not another newer motor that will [fit] in the Packard Window setup? </div></div> Any and everybody who I've asked has said "NO". If anybody knows of one that is a direct bolt-in, please post. I've looked into replacing the existing regulator with an aftermarket (Hot Rod) style, but that would entail re-engineering.

Those failure modes are NOT what I have seen on these motors: Stripped brass gears Stripped worm gears Broken driveshaft are what's typical. The brushes and windings were all good.

Recently, just before the Packard V-8 Club Meet, the driver's door electric window motor quit in my 55 Pat. This was the 3rd failure of that position's motor since I have owned my Pat. The driver's door gets the most use, so this was not unsurprising. The first two times, I was able to get another, good used motor and just R&R'd it. This time, I decided to see if it could be fixed. At the recommendation of fellow Packard V-8 Club member Paul in Las Vegas, I went to an "old time" electric repair shop there. I took 2 of these motors which were not working. I also took KevinAZ's starter and solenoid for preventive overhaul. Kevin's starter and solenoid were overhauled without problem, but the shop owner said he couldn't do anything about the window motors because "replacement parts are not available" and have not been for many years. A few days ago, I challenged local friend and fellow PV8C member "Bud" B. to attempt repair on at least one of these motors as he had been claiming he could do. Among other things, "Bud" was a master electrician and repaired electric motors while in the US Navy many years back. "Bud" successfully made one good motor out of two non-working ones, as he claimed he could. If anybody else has a pair of non-working electric window motors for their 55-56 (maybe earlier are the same?), post a response if you're interested in having "Bud" try to make one good one out of the two. There would be $ involved, but it should be more than fair. We'll figure out the details if there's any interest.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1947 Borg Clock manual (snip)</div></div> Geez, those pesky Borg were on Earth even earlier than Star Trek indicated! On the hour, does it chime: "Resistance is futile, you will be assimiliated!" <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/blush.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> The Packardinfo.com website is great or what! We learn something new every day. Thanks Kev! Keep up the good work.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Is that a Brass gasket between pump and adapter? </div></div> Yes it is. It's included in the kit along with the 4 new mounting bolts and Packard distributor-to-Olds pump driveshaft.

The second major update to the Packard V-8 Club website is now online. It explains the background, problem, solution and details of adapting the Oldsmobile High Volume oil pump to the Packard V-8. For those of you not yet a club member, here's a picture of the final result:

BigKev: 1956 Clipper! Cool! You'll be a card carrying member (if we had cards) soon! Oops, I just realized that you are a PV8C member already. Well V-8 owner, then! BTW thanks for the link back from your excellent Packardinfo website back to PV8C. I tried to do the same on this update.