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Posts posted by TxBuicks

  1. I saw the pictures of this car earlier, too. What I wondered about is the shifter pointing forward and the console. All the parts books and pictures I can find show the shifter curving to the rear of the car, and the shifting pattern displayed to the right of the stick, not below as pictured. Can one of you Wildcat experts clarify that?

  2. I am one of the '63 Wildcat' people. We did not start out thinking we were going to need a donor car. We bought the 63 Wildcat Convertible unseen, other than pictures supplied from the owner. We were disappointed in the condition of the car when it arrived and felt we were mislead somewhat by the previous owner not stating the condition of the car accurately. Obviously, we can take the blame for not doing our research more diligently before the purchase, but when a car of this rarity comes up for sell, you take a chance of missing out if you hesitate. We took the Wildcat to two different professional body shops for their opinion. Both shops recommended we look for a donor because, basically, everything from the beltline down needed to be replaced. It spent its entire life in the north east and the salt and rust had taken its toll on the car. We left the car at one of the body shops so they could start the initial work. We searched for several months until we found the donor car in California. The entire interior had been stripped out, the engine was stuck, and you couldn't tell what color it was because of all the surface rust. But the metal was solid. Again, based solely on pictures, we decided to buy it. We did not know it had the 425 engine in it until after it arrived. What a surprise that was! Those of you who know us well, know the difficult decision we made to still use it as a donor car. All three of us consider ourselves to be Buick historians, on a mission to preserve the Buick heritage. Trust me when I tell you that it was with a very heavy heart that we decided to cut it up. We had many conversations about looking for another donor, but what would we do with the one we just purchased? It was a perfect donor because it had all the metal panels we needed. This explanation may not satisfy Mitch's concerns, but, in our opinion, it was the best decision to make considering the situation we had. It is not something we do lightly.

  3. Brian,

    Yes, I have received your registration. Your check should be in your next statement. I didn't realize it's been two months since our last deposit but I will hurry and catch up.

    At this point in the process I check the PO Box a few times a week, receiving just a few registrations each week. Obviously, as volume picks up, I will check it more frequently.

    The confirmation letters for all registrations should go out after the first of the year. The program used for registration has to be changed to accomodate the particulars of the next BCA meet. There are still a few tweaks that need to be done before I'm ready to print letters.

    If anyone has any questions about the registration process, please call me at the number listed on the bottom of the registration form or email me directly.

    I apologize for the anxiety my pace has caused.

  4. Tri-Shield,

    When I first got it, the wipers would not shut off. Ignition on, wipers on. I hooked up a toggle switch under the dash to shut them off. I replaced the wiper switch. No difference. I took it apart and cleaned it. It worked fine for about 6 months, then just stopped in the middle of a cycle. Nothing. The wiper blades were stopped pointing straight up. I took it to a motor shop and they rebuilt the motor, but in doing so, disassembled the insides and did not get them together right. They said I had a broken wire in the armature. When I hooked it up it wanted to run but couldn't because the insides were wrong. I took it apart a second time to get the insides straight and now it won't run. I don't know if I broke it when I took it apart or what. The manual has trouble shooting guides that point to a broken relay inside the motor. I'm just fed up with it and I'm not taking it back to the motor shop. Thanks to a tip from Pete Phillips, I found a used one at a salvage yard about 50 miles from here. I'm picking it up this Saturday. Maybe I'll get lucky and it will work. If not, maybe I can make one good one from two bad ones.

  5. Thanks for the responses. I re-read my post and it might be a bit confusing. The compressor is mounted on a frame crossmember in front of the rear axle with air lines connected to the shocks. The compressor comes on and goes off. I can hear it come on if I sit on the tail gate. But nothing happens. It must have a timer to cut it off otherwise it will be on all the time. So I think the problem is in the shocks or the air lines. I think I'll try to tackle the original set up. The shop manual has a pretty good diagnostic chart. It is times like this that I wish I had a lift in my garage.....

  6. Could it be the rear end gear ratios are different? At one time I had 2 1966 Skylarks with identical engines and transmissions. The convertible had higher gear ratios which made it quicker off the line but lousy mileage on the highway. The 4 door hardtop had 'highway' gears and would cruise at 70 MPH without even sweating. I don't know the specific ratios but they were definately different.

  7. My 1991 Roadmaster Estate Wagon is in need of rear shocks. The car has the automatic leveling system in which an air compressor is attached to the rear shocks. It doesn't work. I can hear the air compressor switch on at times but nothing happens. I'm not sure at this point if there is a leak in the air lines or the shocks. I have never met an owner that said this system is still working on his car. All I ever read about is how these systems didn't work too well, even new. So my question is can I replace these air shocks with non-air shocks and just disconnect the air compressor? Or do I try to fix the system? I'd like to hear comments from those who are familiar with this.

    Thanks in advance for your comments.