Arrallen

Off the top of my head...In the movie "The Freshman", Matthew Broderick is at the bus station in New York and in the background is a red Reatta coupe on one of those round automobile displays like I have seen at airports. Since the movie was a 1990 release I assume the car was probably a 1989.

I tried for Reatta or Reatta with the number one through nine in Illinois and everyone of them was taken. I finally settled on a Illinois Veteran plate (Not personalized) and after 9-11 I was glad I did.

Those 17 inch wheels on ebay say they will fit a Reatta. Seems large. Anyone know if they will fit a 90 without rubbing or hitting something. See it at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayIS...item=2437026438 Thanks

Sold! Tell me where to send the money. If you have a Paypal account even better.

I got several short but deep scratches from a grocery cart in the drivers side door. Back in the old GM lacquer days it would have been an eazy spot paint fix up but I don't know about base coat/top coat systems. Can I spot paint or does the whole door need to be refinished? The car is black so I souldn't have a problem matching the original color.

In the service I worked on Sikorsky helicopters which had the engine in the front and according to the army manual the first thing to do for any engine repair was,"Open the clam shell doors." which is equivalent to saying open the hood. I always wondered what kind of dumkoffs they recruited that didn't know that to work on the engine you had to open the doors. After reading the thread suggesting the first thing is to have beer, wine, hard liquor, and a toke or two it might be a good idea if the Reatta manual read, "To check the oil, coolant, brake fluid, transmission fluid or do any work on the engine, open the hood first. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

I used Dow silicone glue on about a one inch seperation on the lower edge of the glass/vinyl material. Be sure the opening is dry. Use sparingly and immediately wipe off any excess. The silicone comes in black at Pep Boys. I did this several years ago and it is still holding together.

Does anyone know if there is a replacement o-ring kit available for the Reatta, changing them to neoprene?

There was a thread about adding sequential turn signals to the Reatta. I would like to but find the aftermarket kits a bit out of my price range. I just ran across a do-it-yourself instruction. I am going to try building one and I'll let you know the outcome. For those interested the instructions can be found at http://www.a1above.net/~bazinet@a1above.net/seq/seq.htm

On second thought, if you have only pinhead sized paint drops, my suggestion would be overkill.

I know the purest will shoot me on sight for this suggestion, and you have got to be very, very, very careful with this. I had a combination of rust and grease on my blue leather seat. From the shape of the spot it looked like someone carelessly laid a brake rotor on it. I spent a fortune on cleaners including those recommended by other members and nothing worked. Finally in complete desperation I used lacquer thinner. I poured some on a clean rag and let the cloth evaporate in the sun until I could hardly feel any dampness. Lightly stroked it across the spot and it took it right off. The dye used is lacquer thinner dissolveable and you are going to take some of the color off so it would be best to feather into the spot. One benefits was the spreading of the dye into some fine cracks in the seat giving it a uniform color again. I then applied a cleaner/leather restorer and the seat shows no color difference from the rest of the interior. Again, make sure the rag is almost dry of the lacquer thinner and definitely try this on an inconspicous place before doing the paint drip and use this only as a last resort. Another product that might be less harsh is a acetone free nail polish remover. There was a discussion on leather cleaning a while back, check the archives.

Don't know if this news item was posted yet. Just got my July issue of Automobile Magazine. They posted the results of the Barrett-Jackson West Palm Beach Auction. 1990 Buick Reatta Convertible w/ 49600 on the clock sold for $11,722. Author thought the bid was OK "given the cars history and condition" According to his guide they should go for around $8,000. Sure would like to know where these writers are finding all these eight grand Reatta converts. Barney, Vin 1g4ec33c9lb905944 Maui blue/white int

I always forget how terrible the convert ride until I take it out of winter storage and put my coupe away. Wish there was a chassis stiffener on the aftermarket like there is for the 65 Mustang convt.

WOW. Fabulous. Love it, especially since I own a black convt that is a dead rimger for the one in the picture. Bob, if you ever decide to do more of these let me know, I'll order more.

A lot depends on how you want to protect your wheels. Waxing is the least protective and oxidation will show up quickly where the wax wears thin or gets scraped off. If your DIY and want a more durable finish you can spray them with a clear coat. The Eastwood Co has what they call Diamond Clear Gloss Finish for Bare Metal. 12oz spray for $9.99 Stock # 10200z. For the same protection as the factory, then you are going to have to go to a professional powder coater in your area, and they are not cheap, but lets face it if you want to keep the car another ten years and want it done right it is worth it.

I do have the tech manual and I see what it all powers, that is why I was hoping for a lead as to where to start. The car was stored over the winter in my garage and problem started when I brought it out for summer. Mice maybe but that car is pretty tight body wise.

I bought the car used from a Lexus dealer so I have no history of the car, sorry. BTW the tag is approx 2" X 3".

Can anyone tell me the meaning of the attached tag. It was hanging on my rear view mirror when I bought the car

My 90 convt blow the body fuse (20Amp)immediately when replaced. According to the manual this fuse serves quite a few accessories and interior lights. Anyone tell me if any of these accessories are more prone to fail then others? I can see this could be a tedious task if I have to check each accessory individually

I bought a kit from Barney last year when my trunk keyhole cover fell off. The cover in that kit was also black. Came with full instructions and took little time to install. Suggest you contact him.

Getting old is for the birds. A recent slipped disc put me in the hospital for a spell and the doc says learn to take care of my back. He frowns on my driving a Reatta, too low too hard to get out of yada,yada,yada. B.S. I answered if I have to suffer I'm going to suffer in style. Some of you other must have simular problems, so what is the solution. Should I look for a sixteen way power seat? Is it worth it or is there a lumbar support worth buying that I can put into my car? I'll be darn if I'll buy one of those SUV's or LTD's. If I do go to a sixteen way seat I would be looking for a saddle brown (tan)from a 90, doesn't need to be concourse, but I don't want something ratty, torn, worn to a frazzle either. Off topic but a word to the wise. If you do travel overseas buy the optional insurance. It cost $9000,00 for transporation to get me home from England. Ambulance from the hospital to Heathrow,(London) first class sleeper from Heathrow to O'Hare (Chicago)and an ambulance from O'Hare to the local hospital which was only about ten miles from the airport. The one good thing was the free hospitalization in England.

My first brand new car was a 1965 Corvair Corsa convt 140hp 4 speed. White top and dark blue body. Bought it from Nickey Chevrolet in Chicago for $2535.00 taxes and delivery included. Later bought the quick shift and trombone exhaust from J. C. Whitney. Today $2500 will buy you a notch above a junker, how the times have changed.

Maui blue w/ blue interior. 80K miles. Options include 16 way seat & CD. Cd doesn't work and never used tape player so I don't know if that works. Problem with the A/c leaking down, suspect seals were not changed when it was switched to R-34a. Engine/transaxle strong, interior good condition, exterior near excellent. Located in Chicagoland area. Asking $5900 OBO. Wife says two Reattas in the family is one too many. <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Had a simular problem. Had to cut open the rubber coating around the + cable connector (battery side) and clean out the corrosion. The connector is not one solid piece but made up of several plates and corrosion built up between the plates resulting in poor contact. This was on a 90, don't know about other years.

I gotta have the shirt, especially since I own a black 90 convt. The only problem I see is a XL or XXL would fit me like a nightshirt. Think smaller for us not so huge guys (and gals too).