BuickNut

Wow........quite a handful. Be sure to post a pic of the vehicle and all the goodies (suspension and underhood....) once you get it finished !

.....guilty as charged..........my bad

..TO GET BACK TO THE SUBJECT...(guilty as charged here....), its kinda funny as a gent was advertising his '73 Century for what seemed a resonable price, and he got lambasted by someone for asking so much for such a run of the mill, non-rare car <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/confused.gif" alt="" /> . Guess I'm a little biased as I own a "73 Stage 1, but they ARE rare - GS, Stage 1, or plain Jane Century. That may not necessarily translate to "desireable" or "collectable", but that's "in the eye of the beholder". I used to love '66 GTO's, until the last 4 Detroit "Dream Cruises", and you can't swing a dead cat without hitting one. From my own perspective, for me at least, I'd much rather drive my '73 Stage 1 though it mightn't be as collectable - but I know that there aren't going to be 10 more in the same color just down the street. I see it as Chevy's....EVERYBODY's got either a Chevelle, Camero, or Impala....the only difference between them is if the big block has a 9-1 compression, 12-1 compression, etc. I don't think ill of them if that's what they like.....but guess I'd rather just be different <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/tongue.gif" alt="" /> !

..PLEEEEZ keep in mind my reply was very "tongue in cheek", and wasn't trying to be TOOOOOO sarcastic or offensive to the "young-uns" out there......I'm actually glad you're into cars, and do you're own wrenching......"ya keep the hobby going" ! <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" />

Ugh....excuse me, but I'm no old timer.....just turned 42, so unless you're 18, maybe I AM an old timer. I ask you a question though - if your car dies on the highway, where do YOU look "Mr Young Pup" <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" /> .....how do you easily tell if its getting gas, if the problem is spark, or on the "new" engines, if its the fuel injection, the fuel pump (...or which fuel pump, in tank low pressure, or on frame high pressure fuel pump), the filter (ever try and change a new car's fuel filter on the road, in the rain....takes a while to do now doesn't it ? ), or is it one of the myriad of sensors that might be wrong ? The old cars weren't easy to dianose by a long shot....but MUCH easire than todays monstrosities ! If an older car goes south, despite the parts being more expensive then they were "a-way's back then" if my memory can work that far ( <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" /> ), it's still cheaper and easier to shot-gun the problem and replace all that might go wrong, than to try and diagnose the actual problem. Now keep in mind, that approach was for those that weren't all that good at diagnosing the problem, and would be the more expensive route than correctly using the "old time" tools of yesteryear even back then. However, todays diagnostic tools are more expensive, and when was the last time you could drag one those out on the highway if your car died, and find the exact cause out of the 10-20 possible causes that the newer diagnostic tools give you ? And sorry, I still don't buy into one computer diagnosing another computer (ever try to fix your PC using its own "self-diagnostic" programs...they don't work very well. My computer couldn't even "diagnose" that my 5 year old had accidently switched the printer port while he was goofing with the computer....I had to go and dig for it myself using my "ol noggin"...so much for one computer diagnosing another..... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/confused.gif" alt="" /> ) The new technology is good while it's working....but when it goes bad, its VERY expensive to replace, let alone FIND if its wrong. Todays parts are designed as assemblies (that can't be disassembled and fixed) instead of components (ever try to replace a $15 ABS sensor replacement that might go bad....you generally have to get a complete hub and bearing with integral ABS sensor for about $275-$350). I work in the auto industry as an engineer, and I know for a fact that there is miniscule effort into making parts/cars workable by the average Joe - let alone the dealership mechanic ! Most of the "young pup" engineers I work with (and granted, I was one of the VERY few that actually turned wrenches or even changed my own oil, from the class of engineers I graduated with, so I'm not THAT far removed or THAT ancient.... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/cool.gif" alt="" /> )have never turned a wrench on a car "because they are too complicated" (their quote, not mine...). So this is a fact, and not just "misirings from an old man". I go to local cruise-ins, and always hear the same thing from "young-uns" when they look under the hood of the old cars, as to how uncomplicated they are and "probably easy to work on". Its been said too many times and ignored especially by todays auto-industry engineering "experts", KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid).... that simplicity is analagous robustness ! I've kept my "computerized" '88 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z going (yeah, its an "old" car too by some standards...), having to diagnose its electical/computer problems....and given that I have done both old and "new"....I still take the older cars. If you want the handling, milage of the new cars - the slam it, throw an overdrive unit on there and GO ! Just my humble, albiet VERY long-winded opinion...... <img src="/ubbthreads/images/icons/grin.gif" alt="" />

Let me know what you want for the bumper. Also, email me your city, state and zip so I can figure shipping. Thanks

Looking for near-NOS/rechromed/excellent-driver parts as follows: -tail lights from a Regal or Century GS (different than a regular Century) -side marker lights (frt and rear sides) -door panels and rear seat side armrest panels -rocker panel trim drivers and passenger side -outside door handles (driv and pass sides) -NOS "STAGE 1" insignias -bumpers frt and rear, that accept the 2 chrome bumper guards -rubber trim for the bumpers (frt and rear, that take chrm bumper guards) -front, side,rear side, rear window stainless trim -front bumper lower grills -gas tank level float/sensor assembly -gas tank and straps -4 speed shifter boot and trim Thanks for your help. If you have these in the condition I am seeking, please let me know the availability of the parts, what the weight would be, and your state, city and zip so I can get a handle on the shipping.

I guess I wanted to step in here, since I have a '73 G.S. Stage 1... Truthfully, anything past '72 in a GM "A" body, IS rare due to their "uncollectability", and how so many folk just junked them. Rare doesn't necessarily translate to increased "collectibility". Just for giggles, try and do a search for a "73 +" A body on on the Collector Car Trader and see how many you come up with vs a any year Skylark. I DO agree that the '73's and later will never be as collectible as the 60's-72 "A" Bodies, however, to say they are a dime a dozen I believe is incorrect....and again kinda irrelevent to me since I LIKE my '73. Old saying goes is you get what you like and damn whatever the other folk want.....be it a '74 VW Beetle or a '69 Skylark G.S. Stage 1 unless your in it strictly as an investment type collector. Hey - if you can't sell it for what ya want, ya keep it...which is BuickRacer's perogative. Good, bad, or indifferent - its his car and to argue with him about his price is to me, is a little riduculous. Ya make an offer, and either ya walk away with the car - or he still has it. That goes for anybody's car - no matter the "collectability" of it. Ya ever seen how many plain jane, overly abundant '69-'72 Chevelles you see out there that are going easily for 15 grand plus ? To me, not worth it.......but obviously to someone, a good price. And I'll tell you, I've seen plenty just sitting for that price for over 2 years until someone comes along and feels its worth the price to them. Ya throw the dice and see what comes up...either as buyer or seller.

Ok, ok, I know not a good question, but I'll ask it anyway as I'm thinking about getting a '67 Wildcat with a 430 to use as an everyday driver. I may try to put a 200 4R on it to try and improve things - but just curios what you might be getting. I know I'd be better off getting a smaller Buick - but I just love the 'Cats and how they look. Thanks.

What are the differences in size (length, width, track width, wheelbase), performance, suspensions, handling, etc. between the '67/'68 Wildcats and Le Sabres ? Appears that the '67 Wildcat has the same grill minus the center hood piece that comes down to the bumper, but generally looks the same - though the '68 Cat and Le Sabre look fairly close. Was the Wildcat basically the "Hotrod" LeSabre thus having heavier duty suspension and drivetrain ? Thanks.

I've got some pics before it went into storage, and before it became "psychodellic" when I had to cut the rear section off (from the "C" pillars on back) and replaced with a rust-free section from Arizona. I'll see if I can get them scanned sometime and send them to you. I agree though, there's a lot of post '72 out there that was still nice and worth keeping. I had a '78 Skyhawk V-6 x 4spd that I wish I would have hung onto. I can't ever find one on "Autotrader" nationwide, let alone locally. I liked the '76 Centurys also with the V-6's (did any have V-8's ? ), but to find them is very tough too. My '73 is indeed "underpowered" by '72 on back HP ratings, but in '73 they first started taking HP readings in a different way, thus the same engine in even the same car would appear "underpowered" if you used the 2 different ways of determining HP. Also, '73 was the year the did start to put MORE HP gobbling smog stuff on as well. Once they started putting electronic ignition, and more importantly "COMPUTERS" in cars with all the multitude of sensors that could go wrong, cars basically became unworkable to the shade tree machanic. Thus the great influx of "non-car-guys" and "non-gearheads" into the Automotive Engineering fields. No offense to the ladies intended, but todays typical male engineer knows no more about cars than a typical female engineer......definately not the case 20-30 yrs ago. I find so few engineers that actually turn wrenches on either their everyday car (...even to change the oil ! ), or who know what to do to their collector car if they even own one. A sad state of affairs which is only getting worse (....sorry to sound to negative....)

Putting duels on the car is a VERY reversible operation of somebody down the road buys it and wants to set it back to a fully stock resto. I'd go for it, and check out the speed shops memtioned to see what they have. I'd also do a search on speed equipment for Buicks in this forum, and I think you'll find some names (TA or Poston ????) that might help....but do the search and I'm sure you'll find the Buick specialists....then there's always the 'ol Ken Belle parts that I think is still around too... Just keep the original manifold, pipes (if they're worth keeping that is...), and crossmember for either yourself if you decide to change back, or for the next owner. Good luck and have fun with the 'ol "Bui-hog" !!!

Good luck in finding either parts (NOS or repop...) for the cars. I have a '73 Century G.S. Stage 1 with a 4 speed, and its difficult to find good NOS parts beyond ignition and electrical switches. Luckily, mine is all there, and aside from the interior, IF I can't find the NOS or NORS parts, I can either rechrome, restore, rebuild or likewise just rework the part. The interior is going to be a chore, but definately not impossible.

Thanks alot for the input guys....sounds like I was on the right track, but that my Achilles heel is/was the back-up vehicle and how much time I was spending on it to assure I NEVER had to drive the old wagon in the snow should the truck break down. I sold the Buick wagon, but was contemplating going through the steps again - sounds like I can do it and get the results as I did with my Ford wagon, and as you folks did on the Buicks. Just out of curiosity - anybody have any experience doing this with a '50's or '40's Buick ? Yeah, I'm a glutton for punishment with this stuff... Thanks again.

I've replied to other posts that have addressed rust using POR-15. I've tried the engine stuff, and will use it again. However, the frame paint, I've had very mixed results - despite applying it per their specs and instructions. I've had some areas where the paint has lasted through 2 years (including winters) of everyday driving, and other areas that haven't even lasted through the summer before it starts peeling and flaking off, with rust already forming where it was treated. I've heard almost 100% satifaction with Corroless offered through Eastwood - and finally bought a quart to try - though haven't just yet. Just my 2 cents worth. I suggest you try searching through the history of this forum, and I'm sure you'll come across other threads addressing this issue - and that my results are fairly typical of other members for the most part. Not to say there aren't success stories - but generally, the results with POR-15 have been spotty.

Howdy Folks, Just wondering what your mid 60's to early 70's Buicks got gas milage wise ? Also wondering what anybody might have done to make a RELIABLE daily driver, even through the winter (...not through the snow and muck though....don't need more rust than what I start with.......), and can do a 1200 mile round trip without a hitch. Any success stories there ? I've had mild success with a Buick Wagon over the summer/fall.....but the gas milage and mechanics start catching me during late fall. I'm at the point with my truck's lack of reliability, that I either need to get a new car (don't want to pay that much money for something that's really not that special....), or do the old car thing right. Just curious. Thanks.

Thanks for the help - I'm doing some perusing for my dad and/or myself, and have come across some 300 with 2 spds, and was wonding if they were doomed to a life of boredom off the line. Looks like I can consider those cars now, without considering doing the 'ol 455 swap !

Any suggestions for a '64 Skylark with a 300 and 2 speed - how to turn into a nice performer but still everyday driver ? Thanks.

Pics ? location ? Thanks......

..would like some pics........where located ? miles on it, floors solid, body shape ? Tranny and engine condition ? Thank

Got any pics ? what size engine...has the tranny been worked on ? Floors - solid ? Thanks....

Hi..I also have a '73 GS Stage 1.......and looking for some parts...if you're wanting to part with some of your extra parts, I would be interested. In particular, I'm looking for the tail light assemblies, and decals, interior parts you might have.....Looking for the rear side window moldings, as well as wheel moldings, bumpers, etc.......Please contact me if you want to get rid of the parts. Thanks.....and pics of the car.....from one GS owner to another ?

Ihaven't seen the testing from those years, but the manual has a lighter weight advantage, better advantage due to more gears, and when racing (if the vehicle wasn't collectible and the worry was of breaking parts......), I have never lifted my foot from the gas when shifting a 4 speed during a 1/4 race......you just bang the clutch and shifter at the same time (power shift, speed shifting...what ever you wanna call it...) and thus keep the RPM in the power band. Again, today, I wouldn't do that because manuals ARE harder on the complete drive line/egnine when racing, and I wouldn't want to risk breaking anything. But I would assume if the driver was good at shifting, the 4 speed would be faster.......

I am getting a complete bolt set for my '73 Buick Century GS Stage 1 with a 455 and 4 speed. Should I use exhaust manifold bolts, or use studs ? I pulled the heads on an '88 vehicle with exhaust manifold bolts, and the shanks snapped on 1/3 of them, and I couldn't get them out no matter how much heat, PB Blaster etc. I applied. Getting them out in the vehicle would have been impossible as the heat couldn't get to the affected area. Would studs be a better fastener application here ? I know if I use studs, and I ever have to remove the exhaust manifolds in the future, I'll have to pull the heads as the manifolds wouldn't clear the studs after the nuts were removed - but would that be worth it vs possibly snapping the manifold BOLTS ? Also, on the down side - would the nuts/exposed stud threads rust making the studs/nusts effectively into a bolt anyway over time ??? Drilling and retapping where the bolts might snap is usually a pain because car not to drill into the water jackets.

Unfortunately, due to both my '73 and '49 Buick's being manual tranny's, I don't think they will ever see the "official" dream cruise day (too many stop and goes to even think about using a manual tranny....), but I was there in my '67 Ford Wagon. I saw a GM exhibit around 13 mile (or thereabouts...), and saw a GORGEOUS 1949 Buick Woody wagon...green paint with the woody trim - had my mouth watering for sure ! I saw also a '50 Super sedan, a '52 or '53 Super sedan (both actually cruising...guts to cruise in THAT traffic with an older automatic even....). I saw a huge number of Skylark GS's (sadly mostly parked and not cruising...). Boy, did this ever get the juices running to start hitting restoration on the Buicks for sure Sadly, also saw a number, though not overwhelming, of "Fast and Furious" type rice burners. It was still fun. I too have a number of gripes about some of the cars that were there that IMHO didn't really belong, but that aside - it was still a blast !