Jyrki

I would have used Bob's Automobilia, but they don't have all the parts I needed, for instance only Buick Specialists and CARS have the correct rubber body mounts. Since shipping any size package to Finland runs at about $100, it makes sense to order as many parts from one supplier as possible. I was going to, and will place my next order(s) with Bob's. I've dealt with them before, and have been satisfied. But especially with weatherstripping, some suppliers have the correct ones while some don't. <BR>Talking about Egge, I've heard some horror stories about their pistons. In some cases they didn't fit at all to even make the assembly possible, not to mention running them.<BR>Thanks everyone for your advice

Update: they told me at Buick Specialists that they were out of pistons, and had the factory make a set. They just forgot to tell me about the delay.

Bill, don't have the answer but another question: did the transmission come the same color as the engine? How about the torque tube/rear axle?<BR>Can't make my mind whether to paint the rearend black or the Buick turquoise...

It sure is nice to hear that you people endorse Buick Specialists. I placed an order with them in late June, worth over $500, and insisted on shipping air parcel post or air freight. They billed my VISA on 3th July, but I still haven't got the parts. It usually takes 2 weeks max by air from USA to Finland. I'm sure there's a logical explanation, but I haven't got any reply from them since ordering. Maybe it's because I use fax due to time zones.

Look at the links at <A HREF="http://www.nic.fi/~marlin/buicklinks.htm" TARGET=_blank>www.nic.fi/~marlin/buicklinks.htm</A> <BR>At least Rhode Island Wiring Service and a couple others have exact OEM type harnesses

Hey, the 6.6 compression is designed for 72 octane fuel. With todays fuel, you would want all the compression you can get, since each point of compression, like 6.6 to 7.6, equals 13% better mileage and 5% more power

STP is nothing but a plastic polymer thickener, as those used in all multivis petroleum motor oils, so no harm done. It does nothing to lubricate, though, just thickens the oil at higher temps. The point is, you don't need these thickeners with synthetics.

Ken, you can find a Red Line dealer at <A HREF="http://www.redlineoil.com" TARGET=_blank>www.redlineoil.com</A> <BR>The Red Line stuff has the added bonus of being polyolester-based (PE), meaning it will slightly swell your seals, which is just the opposite of what polyalphaolefin (PAO) does. Over 90% of synthetic oils are PAO-based (inexpensive). Diester would also swell seals, I think Amsoil uses that stuff.

Anders, you've got a real nice car there <BR>My uncle used to work at the Volvo engine factory in Skovde, Sweden, and when I was a kid, we would pay a visit there every summer. What made an impression was the huge amount of convertibles (cabs as you call them). Oh well...

Finally I'm in a dead end. The 1954-55 ring & pinion are not a bolt-on swap to an earlier axle. The pinion gear is too large in diameter to fit. So you'd need the complete carrier (third member) from a 1954-55 Buick. For instance in my case, the 55 pinion gear is some 0.63" larger than my original, thus the ring gear needs to move 0.32" away from the pinion. The differential side bearing webs won't allow that much side movement. So I wasted $300 on a gearset I can't use.

Allan, I don't have the numbers on hand while reading this forum, but I will look up for them when I have time - we just got a baby girl last night

Attention everyone! I just measured the 46 pinion bearings, and it appears that the rear (roller) bearing of 1955 is 0.08" wider than that of 37-54. Both the ID and OD are same. Moreover, the front pinion (ball) bearing of 1955 is otherwise the same as 37-54, but the pre-55 bearing is a sealed type (to prevent oil from flowing into the torque tube?), while 1955 is unsealed for some reason. <BR>I could not find a supplier for the 1955 REAR pinion bearing, but I can use the narrower 37-54 bearing - I just have to use the spacer between front and rear bearings from the old pinion.<BR>The ring gear: both the old 4.10 and the new 3.43 ring gears have 41 teeth - the difference is in the pinion - 10 vs 12 teeth. I had to drill the rivet holes in the carrier a bit larger to accept 3/8" UNF bolts of the new ring gear. Anyone with a newer shop manual please let me know the correct ring gear bolt torque - my 1946 shop manual only tells how to use rivets...<BR>Once I get the new bearings, and are able to proceed, I will let you know how it turns out.

Ken, you don't have to flush. They are compatible. Just disconnect the return hose and drain it.<BR>I'm sure Dexron III is compatible backwards in an automatic transmission, but not when used in a steering pump!<BR>I recently purchased a hi-perf AGR steering box for my 79 G-body, and the instructions stated that Dexron ATF does not have the lubrication abilities needed, and neither ATF nor any other "red" hydraulic fluid should be used on a late model system, because they "eat" the Viton seals.<BR>Jyrki

Ken, Dexron III is as thin as it can get, thinner than any previous ATF. Also, it will not have the lubrication properties needed. I quess you have most noise when hot? Get a can of real Power Steering Fluid, I think GM still makes it. I use Red Line Power Steering Fluid, and have cured many "moaning" pumps and leaking boxes with it. There are many other makes that carry a specific Power Steering Fluid. ATF is a poor substitute.

Anders, you got me! It was a typo - I didn't mean 90 but 60 mph, roughly 100 km/h. <BR>I also have a Cobra replica, based on a 79 Malibu, with 2.73 gears. On the quartermile, I shift to 3rd gear in the trap at 104 mph. Needless to say, it launches like a cow from a swamp

My 83 Caprice STW had 2.73 gears and an .70 overdrive, and barely turned 1500 rpm at 90 mph. I liked that. Now that the gas price has climbed up to $1 per LITER in Finland, I'm changing the 4.1 gears or my 46 Roadie to 3.42 from a 1955 Buick.<BR>Yes, it does sound ridiculous when you guys are whining about your gas price in the US

Does your car have an electric choke? If yes, there's your wire. Some accessories, like the radio, also use switched 12V, but are off during cranking. Maybe the turn signal feed wire? Heater fan? Wipers? Get a shop manual and look at the wiring diagram, or use a voltmeter to find the correct wire. I would look at the shop manual and the circuits leaving from ignition sw, labelled "IGN ON & CRANK". <BR>I have to disagree with the Old Guy, though. You're right that the positive coil wire, in many cases, has less than 12 volts at the coil end. So that one is out of question. But I would say that it's got power even during cranking, however the wire from the solenoid is used to by-pass the ballast resistor, providing "hotter" spark during cranking. I may be wrong, though.

Justin, if it only overheats in slow traffic, but not on freeway, your problem is inadequate flow of air or water, or both.<BR>Then, it may also be that your engine is running lean. Are you running straight antifreeze? The thermal conductivity of antifreeze (glycol) is only 1/4 of that of straight water. So a 50/50 mix is 50% worse than water. I suggest you go to Pep Boys and get a bottle of Red Line Water Wetter, and mix that with straight water. It will give you the corrosion protection, and cool down your fluid some 15 degrees. Racers use it instead of glycol. IT WORKS!<BR>On the other hand, get a Robertshaw thermostat from Summit or similar store. That's the best. <BR>Road salt and humidity will eat your radiator from the outside - check the condition of vanes, visually, or you can also tap them slightly with your finger and see if they break. <BR>You don't have undedrive pulleys, do you? Those, together with a typical water pump, are the main reason for inadequate water flow at low RPM's<BR>Let us know how it turns out!<BR>Jyrki

There are a lot of Chinese bearings sold under American brand names nowadays. Sometimes they are up to their task, sometimes not. Better know what you are buying. When it comes to grease, a lot of racers use Red Line CV-2 grease, and say it makes all the difference in the world.

Thanks for the info. I quess the filter would be most needed during the initial runs of a fresh engine, to remove all metal shavings and foreign particles. I agree that a seasoned engine would only need frequent oil changes. <BR>The machine shop where I'm taking my block, says their washing machine won't remove the deposits, unless most of it has been mechanically scraped first.

I just opened up my 46 Roadie 320, and found tons of "gunk" inside. I also discovered this engine has no oil filter at all!<BR>Since the 1942 shop manual shows there was one, I assume that the filter can of my 46 was removed for some reason. The port from the main oil galley runs straight back to the port near the distributor shaft. <BR>Could someone confirm if there should be an oil filter on 1946 models?<BR>Also, what is the best method of removing all the gunk from the parts? I've heard that industrial washing machines won't remove this gunk.I've also heard some people cut a 50 gallon barrel in half, and made up an alkaline bath and a fire under it. <BR>Any help appreciated!<BR>Jyrki

Try at least Dan Myers and Wheatbelt, Buick Bonery too. You'll find links at <A HREF="http://www.nic.fi/~marlin/buicklinks.htm" TARGET=_blank>www.nic.fi/~marlin/buicklinks.htm</A> <BR>For what it counts, I've recently had horrible experiences with a plater here in Finland - ruined my parts but took the money.

There are specialized shops like Apple Hydraulics. See their link and others at <A HREF="http://www.nic.fi/~marlin/buicklinks.htm" TARGET=_blank>www.nic.fi/~marlin/buicklinks.htm</A> <BR>Let us know how it turns out <BR>Jyrki

Great, thanks a lot. Is there a 18 gauge?

Help me in finding a formula to convert the Imperial measures to metric measures. How to convert sheet metal gauge to metric thickness? There doesn't seem to be any logic behind it...<BR>Thanks,<BR>Jyrki