rmartens

Well--so it is now two years later--and I finally have the transmission sitting on the ground beside the car. I've taken the torque converter apart to get it off the main shaft. Everything looked fine and dandy inside--no broken blades, debris, etc. (Not that I recommend taking one apart for fun--but it's a real thing of beauty inside that turbine housing.) I bolted it back together and put it aside. No obvious problems on either end of the transmission case--nice and clean inside the torque ball as well. I do not have the kind of money required to take this project to a shop for R & R. I would like to do what I can to try to figure out what the problem is and replace the damaged part if that is possible for what limited $$ I have. Given the symptoms described in my original posts, where should I start? Should I remove the tail end? Bellhousing? Valve body? I want to find the problem--but I also don't want to have parts flying when I open something up. I'm hoping not to screw more things up in my quest for answers and possible repair. Thanks in advance, Rick

Bruce: If you haven't already done so, check the contacts on the brake light switch mounted on the master cylinder. Mine were dirty and caused intermittent problems like the one you are describing. I also cleaned the light sockets and made sure my bulbs were good. Seemed to resolve the issue for me. FWIW, my '56 Century 4-door hardtop shares the same paint scheme as yours--and I'm located just NW of you in Woodland. Rick

Gentlemen: I'm the original anonymous poster on the torque tube question--got my password back now so I can log in! I appreciate the answers you've all provided--it sounds like there is no "easy" option other than swapping out the Dynaflow and the rear end simultaneously. I think I've read enough on these forums over the years to know that there appears to be no real "bolt-in" solution. (I've only got a 1 1/2 car garage, no welding equip or experience--and worst of all--no money!) Glad to hear someone tried the torque tube conversion. Thanks again, Rick

Seems like the jury is divided on heat. What about this combination--weld another bolt on to the stub that is left--giving you a bolt head to turn--and heat the length of the added bolt. I'm guessing enough heat would get through to loosen the corrosion but not cause damage to the housing.<P>I have not--repeat--have not done this myself--just an idea!

I hauled my '56 Century Riveria HT from the Canadian border to Sacramento on a Ryder car trailer behind a 24' or 26' Ryder truck.<P>If I recall correctly, Ryder's trailers have a higher weight capacity than U-Haul's. I would have been overweight on the U-Haul but was at capacity (to the EXACT pound--I checked on a scale!) on the Ryder.<P>You'll definitely want a hefty rig to pull that load.

Now they've been renamed "53 Buick Sparrow Cutters". Does that provide more clues?

This item is on E-bay with the description "56 Buick Portholes". They sure don't look like the ones on my Century. What are they? Item # 599399746

My '56 Century wants a rebuilt Dynaflow so she can get out on the road again.<P>Last year at this time, the wife asked if we could go driving around looking at Christmas lights. Kids insisted we use the Buick instead of Mom's car. Stopped at the mall on the way home and the tranny didn't want to motivate the car anymore--just sat there and screamed.

I'm using a dry filter on my '56 Century. I took the entire air cleaner into the parts store until I found something that fit snug top and bottom and provided as much filter area as possible. I forget the part number, but it also fit a mid-80's S-10.<P>Sure makes messing with the carb a lot more pleasant!

Thanks! We'll keep in touch!

Steve:<P>From what I've read here on this forum, I'm limited to using a Dynaflow from a '55 or a '56, with the later model being preferred.<P>Thanks for the suggestion, though.

After reading Ken's response about the handbrake cable, the "Dong, Dong" description sounds about right. I had the same problem on my '56 Century.<P>I could see where the cable had been slapping the torque tube and the guide at the tail end of the torque tube. After ensuring that the cable was adjusted properly--and the noise still there--I slit a piece of 1/4 inch fuel hose, popped it over the cable, and used tie wraps to tighten it down. No more noise. You'll want to be sure not to cause any binding as it goes through the guide.<P>Rick

Neil:<P>I don't have the answer to your question--but search the archives here as it's a pretty regular topic.<P>I am in need of '56 Dynaflow if yours is in decent shape--and I'm almost local--Sacramento area.<P>Drop me an E @ rmartens@fbcwoodland.org<P>Thanks,<P>Rick

This might not work for everybody--but it did fine for me...<P>I took the lid off a 30 gallon Penzoil drum, drilled a hole an inch or two off the bottom to install a brass valve. Drilled a few holes in an oil drain pan that fit the top of the drum. Put the thing up on blocks, put in five gallons of solvent, then used the spigot to fill an old quart gear oil bottle with the nozzle top. You can get some pretty good pressure out of a squeeze bottle and small nozzle.<P>Eventually plumbed the spigot to a drill-operated pump--used a old gas pedal and sealed electric switch to turn it on or off. <P>Not sure how safe any of this is--but it worked for me.

Not that it matters now--but about six months ago there was a set of these lights up for sale on E-bay--in the original box!<P>If you want to make your own but not screw up your original portholes, I think there are 7 '56 portholes on E-bay right now.<P>Or how about using those little neon jobs...

Considering a Dynaflow swap from a '56 Special to a '56 Century. Are there any differences to be concerned about? Both have the 322, the Special has the 2 bbl and the Century has the 4 bbl.

It sounds as if the choke is unloading too soon or the starter switch is too late. If I recall corectly, the starter switch on a '56 engages at about 1/3 throttle. My manual is in storage (long story, involves 5 years overseas) but surely someone on this forum should know how to adjust it. Involves using a drill bit of the correct diameter to gauge the distance the throttle butterfly opens before engaging the starter.<P>I'm assuming you ease down on the gas pedal until the starter engages...it shouldn't get very near the carpet at all.

Rather than wrenching on the threaded rod, run two nuts onto it, lock them against each other, then loosen the rod by turning the lower of the two nuts. Saves scarring the rod.

Your description of the bulbs sounds like one I had in the dome light of one of my vehicles a few years ago--although the diameter was larger than a Buss fuse. Can't remember which car it was. Have you taken it in to a local auto parts house to find something similar? Might be difficult to find that low of an amp rating.<P>Good luck!

Nomoresea:<P>Here's an alternate idea that worked for me on my '56 322. I replaced the filter and oil with a dry paper element. I just took the air cleaner housing into the local parts house and messed around till I found something that fit snug top and bottom. If I recall correctly, I found a filter from a mid-80's Chevy S-10 that did the trick. (I'll check the part number when I get home later this p.m. and post again)<P>It's not original, but very functional and makes it a whole lot easier to work on or around the carb.

Will a Dynaflow that came behind a '58 364 fit a 56' 322? Is the '58 Dynaflow any better than the '56?<P>Thanks!

I just looked at the E-bay pics again--maybe the photo shows them upside down?<P>Rick

Are the spark plug covers from a '55 Special (264) the same as those belonging on a '56 Century (322)?<P>The ones I saw on the '55 had the wires exit together near the back of the block. On E-Bay I just saw a set where the wires seem to exit above each plug. Which is correct for a '56 Century 322?<P>Does the '55 264 version fit the '56 322?<P>Thanks,<P>Rick<P>591847090 1954-56 Buick Spark Plug Covers

I need a Dynaflow for my '56 Century 322. The donor car is a '55 Special.<P>How can I tell if I'm looking at a 322 or a 264 in the Special? (It has the 2-bbl manifold)<P>Will a '55 Dynaflow bolt up to either engine?<P><BR>Thanks,<P>Rick

Regarding the "magic" of the starter switch...from what I remember from the shop manual, there's a vacuum interlock that, when the engine is running, pulls the steel ball that activates the switch away from the contacts. Secondly, there is some part of the generator/regulator circuit that limits the voltage to the switch when the engine is running, so that it cannot reactivate. I have NEVER had the the starter kick in while the engine is up and running.<P>I did have a situation where too much sitting (five years) and too much dirt on the contacts caused the starter to fire intermittently when the ignition switch was on but the motor not running. I cleaned the switch and have not had a problem since. Being able to start the car (or just crank it over) from under the hood has been very convenient--especially with an AT. I do make a point of doing it while standing BESIDE, not in front of, the car!