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Everything posted by rmartens

  1. rmartens

    oil bath air cleaner modification

    I wish I had my info handy--but I believe a good tight fit on my '56 Century was found using a filter designed for a mid-80's Chevy S-10. Seals without needing additional gasketing.
  2. rmartens

    Anyone tried the Speedo Cable Repair Kits?

    Turning the cable by hand might not get the needle to move. I chuck the end of the cable in a cordless drill to get enough rpm to get the speedo moving.
  3. rmartens

    1956 Buick Special Heater Core R & R

    I've done it on my '56 Century. Did not have to remove the fender. I don't recall it being that big of a deal. Had a radiator shop replace the core for me.
  4. Couldn't think of a better place to ask for assistance. I have a time stamp just like this one--except the plunger is stuck in the down position. The plunger shaft is brass, the housing cast iron. I've tried PB blaster and as much prying and hammering with a rubber mallet as I dare but to no avail. It's been this way for 30 years or more. Any recommendations? Heat & Cold? I've taken the clock works out but can't get the die out with the plunger in the down position, and the die most likely has the name of the Hawaiian sugar mill where it was last used.
  5. rmartens

    Understanding the Dynaflow

    Living on the West Coast it was simply a knit hat or ski hat. My Canadian relatives called it a toque. But moving here to the East Coast (NC) I got real confused when people called them tobbogans. To me that's a 6' snow sled.
  6. rmartens

    1956 Buick Century axle studs

    I had the same challenge some 20 years ago. I bought grade 8 bolts of the larger diameter and thread, then took them to the local vocational school where they cut off the heads and turned down the narrower diameter and thread pitch needed. Said the hardened bolts needed 3 passes each on the thread cutting lathe. They worked wonderfully! I've since moved back to the original wheels and hubcaps.
  7. I'll be moving into a new house soon, and may have enough time to finish the garage floor before we move in. The concrete floor is a few months old--I assume that's cured enough for applying a surface treatment. What are my options in terms of paint? Epoxy? Anyone had any luck with specific products? What'll it cost me to do a 20' by 20' garage? I've heard that some finishes don't like heat, and others have to cure for a long time before hot tires don't scrub the paint off... All ideas appreciated!
  8. rmartens

    56 Power Steering Rebuld Kit

    Sorry I wasn't more clear--Fusick wants to buy one they can keep so they can develop the kit at their convenience. I took a vacation day today and visited the bearing store in Raleigh for the seals and the rubber store for the O-rings and felt seal. Some of the rings looked a little smaller in the cross section than the originals, and they had to trim and reglue one of the larger rings to fit. The cost of the O-rings and felt seal was less than $4. Not sure how much the seals were, will pick them up on Tuesday.
  9. rmartens

    1955 Buick Dynaflow problem

    I bought a test gauge at the farm store, and found that the threads on a flexible grease gun hose were exactly what I needed to connect the gauge to the various ports on my '56 Dynaflow. On a somewhat related note, if you ever need to check pressure with the transmission out of the car, I used some thick rubber and a couple of hose clamps to attach my largest socket to the center of the torque convertor. Then I attached an old 1/3 hp corded drill to spin the unit up for pressure testing.
  10. rmartens

    56 Power Steering Rebuld Kit

    Finally decided it's time to get this project done, but no one seems to have a gasket and seal kit. Spent some time on the phone with Terrance at Fusick--says the 56 Buick box was a one-year only unit, and they have not yet developed a kit for us. (They will PAY $100 and shipping for a unit they can tear down and use to create a kit.) Anyhow--are there any other suppliers for a kit?
  11. rmartens

    56 Power Steering Rebuld Kit

    I pulled the seals at the pitman shaft and the input shaft. The pitman shaft seal carries the following identifying info: EP 46 5683373 The input shaft seal reads: GP 20892 09 5682846 Are all numbers significant, or just one set--maybe the ones starting with 56? If I match those numbers, are all the appropriate dimensions going to be correct for this application? Thanks,
  12. rmartens

    56 Power Steering Rebuld Kit

    I too was expecting to see gaskets in those two places--but in both cases it was a large o-ring.
  13. rmartens

    56 Power Steering Rebuld Kit

    Jerry: Do you have a part number for the kit from CARS? I'm not having much luck searching their site. My steering box leaks more than my Dynaflow, but otherwise works fine. I disassembled it a couple of days ago--it's pretty straightforward, but I'm planning on leaving the control valve intact and am not planning on tearing into the piston or ball nut--just replacing the assorted o-rings, and the seals at the pitman shaft and input shaft. So far it looks like 3 large o-rings, 2 medium sized o-rings for the elbow on the control linkage, and two small o-rings between the control valve and main body. Plus the seals and washers. Thanks for any direction you can provide. Rick
  14. rmartens


    I love the business card from Braley & Graham in Portland, OR. My '56 Century still has the chromed logo from that dealer on the trunk lid.
  15. rmartens

    56 Special Heater core removal/replacement

    John D. beat me to it--followed the same process on my '56 Century. Just takes patience.
  16. rmartens

    1956 Hood Scoop

    I had that same question a few years ago...the first explanation I heard is that the AC cars had the open grill and the non-AC cars did not. Subsequent discussion here on the forum discounted that theory in favor of the running change. On the other hand, if you wanted to turn it into a "ram-air" scoop it wouldn't take much ductwork. I've seen it done on tri-5 chevys with crate engines and better air filtration systems than stock Buicks. I run the stock air filter housing but use a paper filter that fits tightly--from an S-10 if I recall correctly. Rick
  17. 1951 Buick special straight eight 1500 obo Not mine, saw this on CL this evening. Here's the text: "I have a very nice decent 51 buick for sale I think it would be a beautiful car fixed up...its all there all the way down to the hubcaps all original, 27,000 miles...sat for about 20 years until the owner and his wife passed away and three years ago their children sold it to my friend and I bought it from him...If it doesnt sell I am going to chop the top and make it a tail dragger, car has all the stainless interior etc...919 283 5278...Also WILL TRADE FOR A 67-81 Firebird or trans am in good shape has very minimal rusting here and there"<!-- START CLTAGS -->
  18. A bit too long ago I disassembled the major sections of the Dynaflow out of my '56 Century. I just purchased a set of gaskets to put it all back together, and there appear to be many more gaskets than I need for the amount of disassembly I did. I need instructions/parts diagrams so that I can put this thing back together correctly, including torque specifications. Any assistance that can be provided would be greatly appreciated. My e-mail is rmartens@fbcwoodland.org, and I can provide a fax number if that works better. Thanks!
  19. rmartens

    '54 Chrome Headliner Bows

    I've got the chrome bows on my '56 Century Riv, but according to the auto fabric place that made my headliner (in OR), that wasn't in the book of factory patterns they had. Fortunately I sent pictures and the original headliner, as the headliner attaches to the bows with a sewn in cardboard insert. Rick
  20. I've noticed some variation between my Century and parts advertised on E-bay and elsewhere: 1) I have the large hubcaps that cover almost 100% of the wheel. They have the plastic Buick inserts. But I've seen some smaller "dog-dish" styles advertised. Which is correct? 2) I have the "Century" in script on the rear doors. But others advertise the more block-lettered version. Which is correct? 3) My hood scoop has the painted grill, but I've also got a spare scoop that has the actual ventilated grill. What is correct? Thanks, Rick
  21. rmartens

    Best way to remove Dynaflow 56 special

    I pulled the rear axle out from under my '56 Century before I removed the Dynaflow. I removed the tires so I didn't have to lift the car so high. As already noted, you'll need to remove the brake line and parking brake cable. I made guide pins by cutting the heads off of some long bolts--all thread should work as well. I pulled the torque tube back into position using nylon straps--gave me good control by using straps every which direction. Once it was on the guide pins securely, I replaced the pins with long bolts and used the threading action to pull things into place slowly. Have fun!
  22. Thanks for all the insights--and the photos! The other explanation I had heard about the hood scoop is that the mesh version was used only on AC-equipped cars. I've got the snorkel air cleaner as pictured, and had seen a TV program once where a Tri-5 Chevy had its hood ornaments turned into intake scoops that were plumbed to the air cleaner. It wouldn't take much plumbing to do the same with the mesh screen and the snorkel air cleaner. I've also seen '56 air cleaners without the snorkel--what models used those? As a side note, I no longer use an oil bath in my air cleaner--I found a paper filter that fits and seals perfectly. I think it was off a mid-80's Chevy S-10. I'll have to look up the part number. Rick
  23. rmartens


    Say this on the local Craigslist this morning... Rick http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/935618367.html 1941 buick eight - $1500 (oxford) Reply to: sale-935618367@craigslist.org [?] Date: 2008-11-26, 8:14PM EST 1941 buick 8 roadmaster.runs good,3 speed on column,straight 8 w/dual carbs.!needs some body work,there is rust,but besides a hole underside ,left of driver floor, i don't think there's anymore.car was actually kept up pretty well considering it's age.frame and suspension looks good, engine runs cool,oil clean as a pin, new points, has most parts there, but some not perfect.it's actually a must see vechile.bill of sale only!!!i won car at an auction,planned to fix really nice, but need money for more important reason. my lost, your gain.paint on car was just put on to help protect from weather,before i totally stripped it down.
  24. rmartens

    problem putting mags on my 58 buick special

    I did the same--started with 9/16" Grade 8 bolts, cut the heads off and turned the other end down to 1/2". No, I didn't do it myself--took it over to the machine shop at the local tech school along with a picture of the car, typed up a bit of history of the car and why I needed the special bolts. They did the work as a class project--IIRC, each bolt took 4 passes at the lathe to cut the thread. The studs worked out great, I could use the appropriate centering lug nuts instead of bolts and washers which couldn't hold the wheels on center. Rick
  25. I actually had thought about the stator idea--but was thinking electro-mechanical with a fuel level sending unit linked to the stator linkage and a fuel gauge for the indicator... Rick