michel88

I still enjoy reading and subscribing to Hemmings. If you haven't looked at it lately it has some cool new features. One of my favorites is the new auction section which gives the results of recent auctions (Kruse Denver Auction this month). It shows pictures of the cars auctioned and a short description with some insightful comments about the car and if it was a good deal. It also has Collector Car Profiles on several cars (1965 Chrysler 300, 1959 Oldsmobile convertible and 1946 Marmon-Herrington Ford wagon this month). Another feature is Parts Locator articles. Why not take a look, you may like it! Woody Michel

Garlic & Batwings...damn knew this project was harder than it needed to be...must have missed that one Tommy...LOL <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif" alt="" /> Woody

I had a very bad vibration in my '40 Roadmaster that was getting worse. I posted the problem on the BCA forum and was told by tommy1927 and others it could be caused by bad rear shocks allowing the rear end to bounce. It turned out that this was the problem. By adding some shock oil the problem was made better. I decided to replace the shocks with rebuilt ones and also replace the shock links which were bad. I had a hard time finding them but finally got some from Kanters. After I had replaced all the parts I took it for a drive and was surprised! Before the clutch had a fairly bad chatter, but with the new shocks and links it is very much improved. It doesn't happen too often when working on old cars that two problems are solved for the price of one! Thanks for the help of the D/F members. Woody Michel

Thanks Randall, I wish I had the rest of the car to go with the tail light! Woody

another picture of same assembly <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Help! I have this Cadillac tail light assembly that I can't identify. Please see attached picture... any input greatly appreciated! <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" /> Thanks! Woody Michel

Hi Chuck, Thanks for the compliment. She was an AZ car and is pretty rust free. I let you know what happens when I get some shock links <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />. Don't expect to be able to get them until September or so. Good luck with your '40 Special. Woody

I placed an order for '40 shock links and other parts from Bob,s and he wrote back to order them in September. I was wondering if you have to remove the gas tank to replace them? It looks like you would have to unless you are using an air ratchet which I don't have. Can anyone tell me the best way to replace them? Thanks, Woody Michel BCA #26487 '40 Buick Roadmaster Coupe

About a year ago I purchased a pair of NOS trunk lid lenses w/Buick Eight letters on Ebay which were supposed to be for a '40 Buick. I didn't try to put them on until last week, but they don't fit. They were in their original GM boxes. The part # is 5934857. I think they are probably for a '39. Can anyone tell me what year they are for? I would like to sell them and get '40 repros from Bob's. Thanks, Woody Michel BCA 26487 '40 Roadmaster Coupe '63Buick Riviera

I finally figured it out with everyones help. It was the rear shocks, they were out of oil. They weren't doing anything so they were acting the same as if they were not connected. This was allowing the rear to bounce. Added shock oil to them and the car rode fine again. Thanks to everyone for your help! Woody Michel

Thanks for ideas to find the problem. I will try them this weekend. Could the problem be the propeller shaft inside the torque tube? Did the factory balance them using weights which might have fallen off? This would be the worst case and hardest to fix. Woody Michel

My '40 Buick Roadmaster has developed a very bad vibration at speeds over 30 mph. The car shakes especially going up hills. It is not as bad when coasting. My wife was following behind me and she said you can see the rear end bouncing up and down about 2-3 inches. It feels like it is in the drive line. To fix it I have had a new complete clutch assembly installed, a new universal joint, and a new torque ball and bearing. After all this the vibration is unchanged. If anyone has ideas what to do at this point please let me know. Woody Michel BCA #26487 <img src="http://www.aaca.org/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I recently got a new gas cap for my '63 Riviera at a Napa Parts store. They had to order it but only took 3 days. I have found Napa to be a good source for older car parts. Woody Michel BCA#26487

Hood rustfree no ornament $30.00, Trunk Lid good with holes for back-up lights $30.00, 4 doors good with glass no door panels $25.00 ea. Dash Board complete except radio good $50.00, Rear Window good no cracks or chips $20.00, Heads complete with exhaust mainfolds for 264 V8 $25.00 each, Intake manifold (2 BL) for 264 V8 $15.00, All parts came off a '54 Special 4 door. You will have to pick up parts, don't want to ship (very heavy!) I am located in Owings Mills, Maryland. Woody Michel

My three favorites are: #1 '57 Century Conv (3spd manual-I wanted to buy one when I was a teenager). #2 '40 Roadmaster Coupe (which I am lucky enough to own). #3 '65 Riviera Gransport. Woody Michel P.S. My wife says any year Reatta!

I guess I will have to take apart the torque tube to find out whats wrong. I am going to get a new universal and torque ball. I will also replace the clutch assembly while it is apart. If anyone can give me some tips on this job I would be greatful. (Unfortunately when I emailed Leon Naffzinger I found out he had passed away in April). Woody Michel

I have a vibration in the driveline of my 40 Buick. It started happening only once in a while but is now doing it a lot more often. It happens at speeds above 35 mph especially going up hills, but also occurs even when letting off the gas. Tires are new and balanced. I am thinking the universal joint/torque ball? Any suggestions would appreciated. Woody Michel '40 Buick Roadmaster

Sorry, had trouble with posting, thought I was logged in. That is my "anonymous" posting, but I don't want to be anonymous about this! We all have to stand up and get recognized to bring the issue to head on the canibalizing of original automobiles. Woody Michel

I went to a local car show today, and was not very interested in the cars there. The reason: About 90% of the cars were modified! It seems like the hot rods are taking over the hobby. Of course most of them had 350 crate motors and matching auto trans. It used to be at work most car guys had original cars. Now I am the only one that likes original, the rest are hot rodders. I feel like I am a minority because I like to experience the feel and sounds the cars had when I drove them back in the late 50's and 60's. The AACA should remain true to its mission, preserving ORIGINAL cars! Woody Michel

Thanks for the info on the 74 Buick. I was recently temporarly (I hope!) laid off. I had better not buy the car at this time. If anyone is interested in it I will be glad to put them in contact with the owner. I haven't driven it or heard it run yet. It is located in Maryland in Baltimore County. I would like to see someone get it who is a Buick enthusiast.<P>Woody Michel<BR>'40 Buick Roadmaster Coupe<BR>'63 Buick Riviera

I saw a '74 Electra Limited 2 dr hardtop for sale. It is originally from New Mexico (old dealer sticker) and is rust free. It has factory skirts and buick rally wheels. It needs rear fender extensions (nothing left of them). It's showing only 56K. I know these cars have a 455 but are they really low performance because of early emission controls? The price is low ($900). Should I go for it?

I posted this question about six months ago and I took the advice of Bill Stoneberg, DugsSin, and the Old Guy and ordered a complete harness (front and rear) from YnZ for my '40 Roadmaster. I am very pleased with it and the quality is excellent. Their harness's are complete with all the correct connectors which is important. Gene at YnZ is very helpful and knowledgeable.

My girl (1940 Roadmaster Coupe)was very very good but her daddy is very very poor...she needs many things and wants many things (like most women!) but....she will get her stainless steel nose piece & emblem restored. She just had a total rewire, new tires and exhaust (including manifolds). She wants her steering wheel restored but can't stand the thought of being couped up in the garage for eight weeks, (any suggestions on how to accomplish this with another steering wheel - interchangable - just so she can get out). MERRY CHRISTMAS Buick Lovers!!! <P><BR>Woody Michel<P>1940 Buick Roadmaster Coupe<BR>1963 Buick Riviera<BR>BCA Member 26487

You can get shock absorber oil from Bob's Automobilia. It is $7.50 a quart and is for all lever shocks. Phone number is 805-434-2963.<P>Woody Michel<BR>'40 Buick Roadmaster<BR>'63 Riviera

Thanks to all who replied. Excellent ideas and suggestions! I used gradually larger drills but drilled into the threads slightly. I was able to remove the remains of the bolts with a chisel and needle nose. Then drilled to next larger size and tapped new threads as Howard suggested. Next time I will be more patient and try suggestions from Allan (39 Buick) to avoid this problem.<P>Woody Michel