Dave Mitchell
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Posts posted by Dave Mitchell
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I probably have a set of jump seats. Dave packard12s@hotmail.com
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Don Sommer, American Arrow corp in Troy, MI. The problem is that chroming the originals is problematic. They suffer from being made from rather poor material in the 30s and you might spend as much chroming them as new ones will cost. My advice is if you are going to get repops, go with the Don Sommer ones. Not the others! feel free to email sme and I can explaind. packard12s@hotmail.com
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I have the complete rear tail lights including bases, parking light lenses etc. Dave packard12s@hotmail.com
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Not sure anyone could answer this with complete certainty. One thing that we can be sure of is that there are a lot more of them now than were produced originally.
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Just now, the CCCA only accepts cars up to 1948, nothing against the great cars of the 50s and 60s, but they are quite different from the cars of the 30s, which is more the primary focus of the CCCA. The tours are big fun and if you have an interest, I would encourage you to buy a car accepted by the CCCA and join in. If you like the 62 Olds, you will probably like a car from the 30s or early 40s too, and there are some good deals out there now. Lots of CCCA members also own American or European cars from the 50s and 60s or pre CCCA brass cars. Dave packard12s@hotmail.com
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It is straight - the only angles are on the ends - more at the head and less at the air cleaner. For cars with a heater there is a round strap for the metal tube that goes to the heater. I can look to see if I have one. packard12s@hotmail.com Dave
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Has it not been running for some time? First make sure the battery is new or good. The choke is automatic, but if it hasn't been run for quite a while, you may need to take the air cleaner off and pour a little gas in the carb. Make sure you put the air cleaner back on before trying to start it in case it backfires - rare, but possible. If there is no fuel in the line or bowl of the carb, it can take some time of cranking to get enought fuel up to the carb to fire the engine. There is a hand throttle on the center of the steering wheel, outside of the horn button, right side I think, opposite side is the light switch which has detents, the throttle does not. You can move the hand throttle open rather than using the accellerator pedal. You may have to pump the pedal some to get it started also and give it gas to keep it running. Idle problems are usually a carb that is out of adjustment, or possibly timing. If you need help adjusting the carb etc you can email me.
You can assume that the timing is ok, but if it doesn't start right off, you can check the spark by pulling a wire off at a plug and holding the end (with insulated pliers or at least back away from the end if just in your hand) about 1/4 inch away from the top of the plug to see if there is a spark jumping between. If not you may have to clean the contacts on the points.
Basically if everything is right on the car, all you should have to do is hold the throttle open part way (either hand or foot) and press the starter button. It will crank somewhat slowly, but it should start. Once it is warmed up, close the hand throttle to bring it back to idle.
Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com
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I think I have a shop manual as well as a parts manual. packard12s@hotmail.com
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Northfield forming also makes the 36 mats. I can put you in touch with them. packard12s@hotmail.com
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There are a couple of types of moldings that you can use, and they are more or less authentic. The more authentic are more difficult to put on and form. If you are not doing a show car then I would use the one which is a two part molding, with a base that does the job of fastening the top material down and which is screwed on, and then an aluminum molding which snaps on that base. It looks pretty close to the original and is much easier to deal with. Also if not a show car, you can find a high quality vinyl with a pattern and texture that looks very close to the original. I have a car with the original insert and if you don't want it to leak you need to regularly treat it with top dressing. If you need show car quality, I can give you a couple other ideas. Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com
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I have some 41 parts if you can give me a list of what you need. packard12s@hotmail.com
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You will have to take the wires off when you get the tank down at an angle, if no one has provided you an access hole in the trunk floor. The gas line also has to be disconnected and line wrenches are a good idea. You will have to have the car up on jack stands or a hoist to get enough room to tip the right side of the tank down, but it will come out. The T shaped bolts on the straps often break if they are rusty. Liberal treating for a few days with penetrating solvent may help. Feel free to email me. packard12s@hotmail.com
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These are hard to find and I need a couple too. I have been thinking of trying to reproduce them - if you don't find one, let me know. Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com
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What is the value range for a nicely restored 37 120 sedan? I am helping someone figure out how much they should spend on a car, it isn't a car that I have for sale. I'm more interested in knowing about nice cars that have sold or been for sale in the last few years. Thanks, Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com
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I think I may have one. Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com
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Just looking at the 2 photos, it looks gorgeous. To really evaluate it, I would need to see engine and interior photos, and any documentation on what has been done, which may or may not be available through the auction company. The color is appropriate, and while West may be right, it may look cleaner without the trunk, the metal trunk has considerable value, and given the limited amount of storage space in the car itself, if you are going to tour with the car would be very useful. Getting a metal trunk restored to that condition could cost you $7000+. This is a rare and desireable car, and probably will sell close to or within the estimate if the rest of the car looks as good as what you can see in the 2 photos. You really should have someone who knows 38s take a look at it for you if you are uncertain. I have had 38s for over 20 years, just finished restoring a 38 1608 Derham convertible victoria, and know them pretty well - if you can get more photos from the auction company, I will be glad to take a look for you. Dave packard12s@hotmail.com
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The synthetics work fine in the trans and rear axle, but simple gear oil will work fine too, you can put in a multi grade such as 90/140.
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The value is fairly specialized and not many guides are that reliable. You can look in the Old Cars Price Guide and at least you will find something there. If you can give a good description of it or send photos, I could give you an idea. The 38 Super 8s are plagued by cracked blocks, so if the engine hasn't been rebuilt, you might plan on a fairly expensive rebuild if it isn't running well. Also these are fairly rare, so finding a car like it that has sold publicly recently might not be so easy. Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com
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I think there is a gasket between the manifold and the pipe. If so, I have NOS ones. Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com
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I have an NOS pulley. Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com
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The casting numbers on Packard parts are seldom part numbers.
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This will not fit a senior car prior to 1939.
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This looks like 35 - 38 Junior to me.
1930 Packard 740 Parts Wanted
in Packard - Buy/Sell
Posted
Hi John, I have a gas cap and bumper bars and a tail light bezel, and maybe a few other pieces. Dave Mitchell packard12s@hotmail.com