jonosso

Hi Larry. It seems that a standard speedometer cable would work, but the round receptacles on both the motor and the gear mechanism are probably about 3/8” that allows the cable to “swim” in the hole. Based on the worn, red plastic end of the one cable that I have, it appears that there must be some adapter that goes on the end of the speedometer cable when inserting it into the motor or gear mechanism opening. My one photo shows the worn, red plastic piece.

1959-1960 GM Power Bucket Seat Cable Questions I have found that the power seat cable that came with the bucket seats that I purchased years ago is not the proper cable. The cable that I have is most likely the correct length — 52” to run from the motor mounted on the passenger seat frame and running to the driver seat gear mechanism. Here are my issues/questions: 1. One end has a 7/8” female connector while both should have 5/8” female connectors. 2. it seems that the round receptacles on both the motor and gear mechanism require the cable ends to have some sort of adapter. On one end of the cable that I have, there is a red plastic adaptor. The seller has labeled it as the bad end. (pic included showing the red piece) 3. Question: What type of cable should be used? Is it a standard speedometer cable? 4. Question: Are adapters used at each end of cable to insert into the motor and gear mechanisms? 5. Question: Does anyone know of a company that manufactures custom cables and would have the necessary end adapters to work with the motor and gear mechanisms?

I am searching for a 2-way power seat switch for the 1959, 1960, 1961 bucket seats that had the metal trim on the base. I believe that the 2-way switch used for those buckets may have been identical to the switch used for 1966, 1967, 1968, and 1969 bench seats equipped with the 2-way power seat. The first photo is the bucket seat that I have which is missing the 2-way switch. The second photo is from an eBay auction where they believe the seat trim is from a 1966-69 GM car. The third photo is a pic I found with a switch installed. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

What is the online Group Code for the Renaissance Allentown Hotel? The hotel's website says the Group Code must be 7 characters. Thanks.

What is the online Group Code for the Renaissance Allentown Hotel? The hotel's website says the Group Code must be 7 characters. Thanks.

You should also post this in the Buick Club Forum. Here is the link to its Buy/Sell forum: http://forums.aaca.org/f117/ . Do you have any photos of the car to share? That will also help spark interest.

Thanks Ted

Does anyone from Pennsylvania have experience with registering/titling a pre-1973 automobile that was previously registered in New York? Specifically, the automobile has the TRANSFERABLE "New York Registration Document" but no title because New York does not issue titles for automobiles prior to the 1973 model year.

Just thought I would share this. I would definitely want to restore the car, but to each his own. http://www.usatoday.com/story/driveon/2014/01/04/show-us-your-car-1959-buick-invicta/4313589/

Mitch, your points are very valid. I really do appreciate you recommending the thorough approach. What can I say? I am swayed by a tinge of laziness and also instant gratification of a wishful easy solution. I wish I could say that I am a product of a young, new generation, but I am almost 50. No good excuses.

Thank you John. I may get into all of the suggestions this weekend.

Mitch, I have never had the battery die on me. I am not proud to say that I let the Buick sit from December 2011 until April 2013 without ever starting it, but when I did crank it, the car started with no problem. I would think that any issues with the batter would have surfaced when attempting to start the car after 15 months of not a single crank and no battery charger on the battery. Am I over-simplifying the definition of a good vs. bad battery? Thoughts?

I will most definitely need to test things one-by-one. (1) I know it is not a problem with the battery itself -- after sitting a month (and even longer), the car starts without requiring any assistance (i.e. jumper cables or charge). (2) Once started, I have driven the car a number of times for distances of 40 to 60 miles with no problem whatsoever (even going at highway speeds). (3) When I complete a drive that has had the car warmed up and driven with no problem is when the issue occurs. The issue happens once I turn off the car and try to start it again. It just "clicks". Once I let the car sit for a while and presumably let it cool off, the car starts with no problem at all.

John, John, and Marty: Thank you for the suggestions. I will have to try all of them and see it it corrects things.

My 1960 Buick starts just fine when cold - even after sitting for a month or more. The problem I have is that after it has been driven and the engine is warmed-up or hot. An example is yesterday when I started the car for the first time in probably a month. There was no problem. I drove it an hour to my parents' home and parked it. I took a few photos and decided I wanted to move it after no more than 5 minutes. I go to start it, and all I hear are clicking sounds (no engine turn at all). I waited about an hour after it had cooled down, and it started with no hesitation. Any thoughts on this? Thanks. Jonathan