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old-tank

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Posts posted by old-tank

  1. Really looking good. Somebody must have put in a power antenna before because that is how you do it...not after you put on the fender (don't ask how I know this...). I also noticed the absolutely correct voltage regulator with the screws in the corners. Details, details, details...it should be ready in 2 weeks or less since it will literally fall together at this point.

    Willie

  2. Keep checking the 'radiator woes' thread.

    Is it actually overheating as in boiling over? If not and it is just the temperature gauge showing hot be advised that those old gauges will show hot at just 200°. It will need to get much hotter to boil over if you have a working pressure cap. If available check the engine and radiator temperature with an infrared thermometer.

    Willie

  3. If the radiator was not leaking when delivered to the radiator shop, and if the shop did not at least take off the top tank and attempt to rod it, it may not be shot. I have three 55's that are using original radiators. 20 years ago I took one with overheating problems to a radiator shop and after a simple visual inspection they determined that I needed a new core for $500. I took it to another shop that quoted a core for $250 and left it. They called 2 hours later and said it was ready --- it was sound and all it needed was to be rodded ($75) --- I just drove that same car 4664 miles (75,000 miles since repair) without problems with that radiator (the heater did leak :( ).

    In the meantime my 76 Olds has had 3 new cores or radiators installed...it seems that the replacement cores or radiators are junk!

    Willie

  4. Spooner

    Momentarily jump the BAT and GEN leads on regulator is what the books say. However I have never needed to do this with new or used regulators or generators. I have tried it a few times hoping it would solve a charging problem and it never did. I ran across your starting problem over at AACA-general...this will not solve the starting problem. You have a defective generator or starter relay. If the generator worked before, clean the brushes and commutator.. you might get lucky. Take apart the starter relay and file the points and smack the rivets with a center punch (better yet get a new one from Bob's Automobilia). The service manual has a very good description of how these systems work.

    Willie

  5. My 9.0:1 compression 55's will run well on the lowest octane only in the winter, otherwise mid-grade is required with occasional highest octane in the summer when the head temperatures (200* plus) are high. You may have to run 93 octane year 'round, but just experiment and use only the highest octane that eliminates pinging.

    Willie

  6. same with 54 Buick, one key fits all. there is number on the flat 3" long X 1/4" wide piece in the trunk lock that I typically use to have keys made from but I wasn't aware of there being one on the glove box lock.

    There is a tang on the door lock also that has the key number ( a little harder to get to) --- that was what I used to get into the trunk on a newly purchased parts car years ago. Did not find any dead bodies:eek: in spite of the foul smell...just a dead 'possum.

    Willie

  7. I wish I could have been there for the ride or at least to see the smile on your face! 1956 was the second year for the switch pitch dynaflow, but the first year that it worked in Low as well as in Drive. Put it in Low and nail it and be ready to fry the tires! I once picked on a 56 Super with my 55 Century (I knew that the 56 had more power, but also had 400 pounds of extra weight)---I got dusted!

    Willie

  8. Leif

    Hopefully you or someone else will make this swap in a 56 and document the procedure if it is possible.

    NTX

    I have to block off the chrome since the blur of chrome flashes sets off seizures:eek:.

    The answers to your other questions is no no no no...

    Willie

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