Dave@Moon
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Posts posted by Dave@Moon
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In this Suday's paper, Tom and Ray Magliozzi's collum had a method for removing carbon from the combustion chamber by pouring 8 oz. of water down the carburator at 1500-2000 rpm over about a 30 second interval (obviously being careful not to stall or hydraulically lock the motor). My nailhead has a habit of carbon fouling plugs over about 1000-1500 miles, probably due to valve seals (the motor has excellant compression, there is no noticable blue or black emissions from the exhaust). <P>Has anybody tried this as a short term fix? Does it work?
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O.K., I'll say it again. Judge not, lest ye be judged. <I> (It applies to both sides of every argument, I mean discussion
, you know!) </I> 
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Don't forget to bring several extra pairs of socks with the extra shoes, they get just as wet and muddy (obvious, but sometimes missed). Many people will wear rubber boots or waders for the mud, but I prefer to consign myself to filth and then clean up at a nearby truckstop shower afterwards. Also wear a good hat and sunscreen and bring rain gear, for all intents and purposes there is no shade or shelter. <P>It's a good idea ro carry drinking water with you as well, although the apple cider is excellant. And if you can make a decent cup of coffee in the field, by all means rent a space and sell it there. I'll make you rich by myself!<P>It's a good idea to throw a child's wagon in the car or truck if you're shopping the swap meet. Heavy items tend to be harder to sell, and later in the week you'll get a good buy on one if you have the means to carry it around. <P>The "catalog" Thomas mentions is usually called the program on the site. They almost always sell out by Friday, but they are a must if you're looking for specific marque parts and you have limited time available. <P>The flea market is essentially over by Saturday morning, many vendors will have already left by then (or are to be found enjoying the car show field, which a sign of a good vendor who likes the cars and not the income!). And Sal is right about the prices, save your bargain shopping for smaller venues. Hershey is the place to get what you can't find anywhere else.<P>One last thing I <I> always </I> forget, bring a camera to the car show on Saturday with lots of film. Especially with the Model A, you'll see lots of examples of what you're doing that can be referenced later in a picture when you're putting your own together.
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It's amazing how many people leave out the "judge not, lest ye be judged" part.
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I never dreamed I'd see praise for my laundry methodology on this forum. Maybe we should ask them to set up a clothesline forum!
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Joe, you wouldn't be related to my wife, would you?
I took no offense, you can't expect to be greeted warmly telling other people what they should do with their stuff! <P>I don't post anything on here that is intended to be offensive or mean spirited. I also will never be anyone's sycophant. It's dissappointing to know that other's do not respect or agree with your opinion. But if you're not looking for opinions what are you doing even reading a thread like this? 
<P>I've been involved in the car hobby for my entire adult life (which isn't really that long yet, I'm 42), and I've seen <I> way </I> too many people do things that were much too short sighted and that they later regretted. The guy I know here in town who built the street rod Cameo could kick himself now, at the very least he threw thousands of dollars worth of now unobtainable parts in the trash to build that car.<P>And when you're 22 it can be hard to realize that that time of regret isn't really all that far away. That guy would've taken that street rod back for a stock restoration 20 years ago, about 12-14 years after it was done. It would be no different today to be street rodding a 1990 Dodge Dakota convertible truck (similar vehicle/similar production/similar age).<P>I do have one question for Joe though: what happened between 7:29AM and 7:36AM that changed your mind about the apology? Not that I don't appreciate or accept it (I do), but without registering anyone could use your name and post anything! 
You should register.<P>As regards for the email address, I origionally registered "Dave@Moon" when I could only check my email once a week. Since I couldn't be all that reliable about answering any messages, I left it off. If you read those old "Young People" threads you'll see that that ticked a few of those old guys off, which (frankly) I didn't mind all that much, so I kept it that way. <P>Also I used to be in environmental law enforcement, where you tend to run into people of all walks of life. And if you really run into <B> all </B> walks of life, there will be a few you'd like to avoid as much as possible. It's been 8 years now, and I think there are still a few guys in the local State Penitentiary who'd <I> really </I> like to know where I live! I tend to be a little protective of my privacy as a result. One of the officers of our Chapter is a Federal law enforcement investigator. You'll probably <B> never </B> see him register on this forum.<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 09-01-2000).] -
Ooops!
<P>By the way, the AC Bristol was an AC Ace first. The Bristol engine was already a swap!<P>XJ8 swap outs are OK, but I've seen several XKEs and 2 XKE V12's swapped out! If the cars worth $60K with the right motor in it, don't make a Chevy out of it! My favorite t-shirt says: "Triumph, life's too short to be driving Chevy's". I wish I had a dozen of 'em! 
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And Martin, you should look up some grille shells from a couple of Arnolt-Bristols. They'd make wonderful speaker cabinets!
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If you don't like crusher laws, one subtle reminder: One of the two major slates for the White House in this year's election is made up of two oil men. Gee, I wonder if <I> they'll </I> be friends of the old car hobby??
<P>Yeah, the other guy's a rotten, commie environmentalist. But so am I! -
Why would anyone put a V6 in a TR? The origional motor is almost as fast, and with Britist spec fuel injection you can get these things above 120 mph (how fast do <B> you </B> want to go on trunions???). Also there's nothing quite like the growl of a British 6. <P>And yes, there is at least one of these things out there with a small block Chevy in it! Is there anything out there that Chevy people <B> can't </B> <I> "improve" </I>
with one of their blasted engines?<P>It amazes me that people spend so much energy doing engine transplants on Healys, Triumphs and Jaguars. The engine often was the best part of these packages to begin with! -
I'm sorry, I was just sitting here playing with my mouse. Did I miss anything?
<P>You guys <B> have </B> to look up those "Young People" threads on the AACA side. It puts this kind of...discourse in it's proper perspective. Over there they think I'm a latter day Ed Roth with an out of control acetylene torch!<P>Martin, that table is cool!! Did you make it? Is it free standing? Is that <I> PPG </I> paint 
? I'd make one of my own (out of origional 427 Cobra fenders of course), but blue-dots are illegal in PA! <p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 08-31-2000).] -
Yeah, it isn't quite a CARB situation in the wild Northeast of PA. The coal is delivered by chute into an elevated bay, which feeds the furnace on demand (when the thermostat engages) via a screw conveyor. As I recall there is a smoke control device on the stack, but how effective it is I don't know.<P>The Triumph is a 1970 TR6, which really doesn't ride much better than the '57 no matter what the ads said back then. So far Lord Lucas has been fairly kind to me, but I rarely drive the car. It's a running restoration projcet, I have about twice what I paid for the car in parts (5 shelving units!) stored for the restoration. As soon as my youngest is in first grade and I get <I> some </I> time back to myself---BINGO!<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 08-30-2000).]
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While welcoming new members is certainly an important task for the Bugle, do we have to donate 1-1.5 pages every month for such a comprehensive rundown of each. Perhaps such information would be better utilized by the club in direct emailings to the Chapters, listing new members in their areas and their pertinant information. <P>I've belonged to over a dozen marque clubs over the years, and this is the only club I know that takes space out of it's newletter/magazine to specifically list new members, let alone provide <I> all </I> their vital statistics. If there's a financial crunch and something needs to be left out, I think we could start with that.<P>It also seems to me that some of the "boiler plate" information in each issue could be consolidated much more than it is. The Table of contents, for example, could be a small blurb on the cover if done in an attractive manner. Also the information that accompanies the table of contents and the President's message could be condensed substantially (for instance by listing phone #'s next to instead of under names).<P>Finally, two notes of praise. It's August and we're talking about the September Bugle with it in hand. That alone is worth the price we'll have to pay for admission to this brave new world (for me). Second I really like utilizing the back cover to feature a single car, rather than just to augment the photos of an interior artical. Very practical, classy and attractive.<P>Also, will we be getting a new poster each month? I have a lot of garage wall to cover! A nice 1960 LeSabre hardtop would look really nice as a centerpiece in my garage motif!
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There <I> was </I> a "This Old Car" show done on PBS about 10 years ago. Two guys (I think in MN) went through the process of buying and restoring a white 1965 Mustang convertible. The title of it escapes me, but somewhere I have a tape with all 13 episodes copied. <P>It's this show that I keep hoping the aftermarket infomercials on TNN weekends will someday start emulating.
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1. 1953 Studebaker coupes.<BR> 2. late 1950's Alfa Romeo Giulietta Sprint Spyder<BR> 3. 1957-58 BMW 507<BR> 4. 1949-54 Jaguar XK120<BR> 5. 1957 Ford Thunderbird<BR> 6. 2001 Ford Thunderbird<BR> 7. 1968 Dodge Charger<BR> 8. 1957-62 MGA<BR> 9. 1958-66 Elva Courier<BR>10. 1958-1968 Aston Martin DB4/5/6<BR>11. 1960 Chrysler 300D<BR>12. 1956 Chrysler 300B<BR>13. 1998-up Jaguar XJ8<BR>14. 1969-76 Triumph TR6<BR>15. 1955-56 Packard (all)<BR>16. 1955 Chevy (begrudgingly)<BR>17. 1963-65 Buick Riviera<BR>18. 1993-1999 Chrysler Sebring convertible <BR>19. 2000 Chrysler PT Cruiser<BR>20. 2001 Buick Blackhawk (show car, look it up! See: <A HREF="http://www.buickclub.org/blackhawk/" TARGET=_blank>www.buickclub.org/blackhawk/</A> )
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<P>John, I <B> do </B> have a clothesline!! (I'm a former professional environmentalist, remember!) Also, you'd be very suprised, I have a friend in the PA-DEQ (state EPA) who just installed a coal furnace and chute in a new house. In the northeast PA coal country they're fairly common!<P>But you forgot the most telling sign of all...I have a <B> TRIUMPH </B>. Your medical insurance will not cover you for mental ailments if owning a British car is a pre-existing condition! <P>P.S. The Triumph runs on Iron City, that is when my skunk has a bladder infection and can't perform!<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 08-29-2000).]
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One more bit of snake oil that does seem to help some, I've put some "Trans-X" tranny fluid additive in my '60 and it does seem to help with the leaking of fluid through the seals. After I drive it it a few times it takes a month or so for the seals to begin significantly leaking, whereas is was showing drips after only a week or so before.<P>Also, with regard to electronic ignitons, there's one thing that I think is overlooked with them--It is fun to play with your points! I kept my old points in my car (admittedly not exactly a track monster) on purpose, not just to save the $100. I know I'll get optimum performance indefinately if I convert over to EI, but where's the fun in that? I didn't buy a 40 year old Buick because I wanted a new car! <P>The old points system functions just fine in an occasional driver/show car. If it's a daily driver or you're going to be running quarter miles in it, then definately take the plunge.
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Ooops! My mistake, I forgot to mention that the exhaust passage in the intake was cleaned out <B> after </B> the fuel boiling problem became critical. I thought I'd said that, but I'm always my own worst proof reader.<P>Thanks Old Guy! I can try to block the passage to see if it's better. The problem is that the electric fuel pump and relocated fuel line has pretty much fixed the problem (again, with the irritant of having to use an electric fuel pump). If the exhaust passage isn't boiling away the gas now, why would it with the origional fuel pump hooked up?
<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 08-27-2000).] -
Thanks Old Guy, but I removed the intake and found out that years of leaking valve cover gaskets had plugged the exhaust passage solid with carbon. I blasted it clean with my pressure blaster just to see if the carbon was acting like a heat sink and boiling the fuel, but there was no change. <P>I'm really stumped by this. The only piece of the puzzle I didn't replace before I went to the electric fuel pump was the stock fuel pump on the block. I was working perfectly so I never suspected it at the time. <P>I do have probably the smallest carburator ever installed on a big block motor, so I assumed that the low boiling point fuel was the only reason for this problem. Then I saw a car with my carb at the 1999 Nationals running with seemingly no problems. Could the fuel pump be conducting excess heat to the gas without affecting its performance?
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Allan, like I said before, using the electric fuel pump fixed the problem completely. I did try all sorts of brands and grades of gas and additives, to no avail. Lead additives don't affect the problem either.<P>If the electric fuel pump wasn't such a bother and so noisy I wouldn't care. I could get a quieter pump, but I think there should be a simpler solution. I can't believe I have the only nailhead with this problem. Somebody has to have solved it before somewhere.
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Julio, a Monday or Friday car is simply a car that was assembled at the factoryu on a Monday or a Friday. As I recall it was around 30 years ago that consumer quality studies were made (by someone) who concluded that the cars made on those days were significantly more trouble-prone than mid-week built cars. Weekend anticipation and drinking were usually blamed.<P>In the mid-70's, when car quality was at its worst, I can vividly recall my dad looking up the date our Ford van was made before he closed on the deal. That's the one we eventually found all the extra hardware in, and it was built on a good day!
<P>The car lasted 11 years eventually, to 120K miles. When is was junked it had literally been patched with over 5 gallons of Bondo (we kept track!). In it's defense, the body work wasn't intended to be a work of art. -
If anyone's still interested in this subject and would like to se it discussed from a <I> very </I> different perspective, go to the top of this page and click on the "Collectible Automobile Discussion Forum" icon. When the complete menu of these forums (forii?) comes up click on the "AACA General" discussion forum. Then click on the "search" icon (very tiny, upper right screen) and search that forum for "Young People". <P>There are about 14 threads on the subject. I reccommend reading only the 4 that have "Young People" in the title. Additional insight can be found by reading the "Driver Class" thread.<P>The AACA guys have a much more serious problem with recruiting younger enthusiasts. I'll leave it to you whether their approach, if it exists, works.<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 08-25-2000).]
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Thanks Allan! Do you have a source for those stick-on themometers? I haven't run accross them as yet in my travels (except for fish tanks!).<P>By the way, the angle of the car definately did not matter when this was happening. I tried parking the car on different slopes to no avail when this first started happening. I did this because I noticed that the float spec changed from 1959 to 1960 for the same carb with no other change. <P>I also looked for a phenolic spacer briefly without finding any. the Stromberg WW2 2 barrel was a pretty old design by 1960 and I doubt if I could find an aftermarket spacer for it (the Carter and other 2 barrels were of a different bolt pattern if I remember correctly). I was in the middle of building a heat shield out of aluminum plate stock (a tough job to clear the linkage!) when the electric fuel pump was suggested.
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Nah, Hal. That's an over-sized fuel reservior and float housing for carburators.
Decoking, the Click and Clack Method?
in Buick - General
Posted
In this Sunday's newspaper, Tom and Ray Magliozzi's collumn had a method for removing carbon deposits for the combustion chamber by pouring 8 oz. of water down the carburator at 1500-2000 rpm over about a 30 second interval (obviously being careful not to stall or hydraulically lock the motor). My nailhead has a habit of carbon fouling spark plugs over about 1000-1500 miles, probably due to valve seals (the motor has excellant compression, and there is no noticable blue or black color to the exhaust).<P>Has anybody tried this as a short term fix? Does it work?