Dave@Moon
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Posts posted by Dave@Moon
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Jeez, what'd I miss? 22 hours ago I checked this forum and everything seemed so quiet. Oh well, I always miss the good ones.<P>I'm not sure what happened that caused 1967GS400's id to get burned. It seems pretty simple to me that you only have to look to the left of the comment to see if the "author" is registered or not. At any rate, if you are registered it is impossible for someone else to post a comment using that name. <P>That was always the advantage of registering to me. It seems by posting something here and not being registered you're putting yourself out on a limb. If you post something as "Paul" without registering and develope a recognized persona here with that name, some unscrupulous person might usurp that id and post anything (even truly offensive [i.e. racist, etc.] matter). <P>Having said that, I'm going to be contrary and reccommend the status quo remain unchanged. It is tedious at times wading through postings from anonymous individuals with a less than enlightened outlook on whatever subject is at hand. But there are major benefits from allowing these people in. <P>First, it opens the door to club participation among lots of people that otherwise wouldn't consider it. A lot of people still think of the internet as big brother, and would no more register here than buy something through this box with their Visa card. The fact that they weekly hand dozens of slips of paper with their Visa numbers printed on them to a stranger driving a garbage truck doesn't seem to matter. (<I>You know who you are! </I>) <P>Second, this open door extends to people who don't yet belong to the club at all. In the last year plus I've seen several unregistered posters say that they are joining or will join BCA. Limiting the use of this forum would be in part taking a recruiting tool out of the hands of the club. <P>Third, by allowing the unwashed to post their rants and misconceptions here it gives us a chance to provide informed commentary and critique, thereby greatly deminishing the chances that their theories are taken seriously by a wide audience. Imagine if there was a forum like this on the Tucker in 1947 when everyone thought the car didn't have reverse? How many Skylarks and 1939 business coupes have been spared the ignominy of a Chevy small block because some guy took the time to brag about his plans here anonymously, provoking a flurry of information from us on the valuable engine he was throwing away?<P>Finally, isn't it just that much more amusing to read this forum knowing that every once and a while some clown's going to post <B> something outrageous </B> on this thing?
<P>If you're going to be posting on this forum with any frequency, you're a fool if you don't register. If you see a posting that's out of line from an unregistered individual, take it with a grain of salt. And by all means post just how full of salt the guy is! (Being the next guy on one of those threads is fun). And if an unregistered id is being used to post both reasonable and unreasonable matter, be hip to what's probably going on! 
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Amor-All makes a vinyl cleaner themselves that comes in a white bottle with a bright blue label. I'd try that one first as it's mild on the plastic and (obviously) compatible with Amor-All. If the waxy stuff is really stubborn, I've had a lot of luck with the "Tuff-Stuff" line of cleaners. They tend to be fairly aggressive but not damaging to plastics. Still I'd check for compatibility in an inconspicuous place first, especially if your going to be contacting any areas of fabric.<P>Good luck!
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Howard,<P>If you're not being criticised, then you're not doing anything! It shouldn't be such a terrible thing in this world to be disagreed with. That's one of the changes I've noticed as I get older, there seems to be increasing tolerance for people, and decreasing tolerance for their ideas/thoughts/choices/etc. <P>As for my $0.02, the problem with trailer queens isn't their existance (who in their right mind would drive a Bugatti Royalle anywhere?). However, there is an obvious tendency to see increasingly less valuable cars being given this treatment, largely for the sake of $25 trophies. It's not too unusual to see $7000 cars being unloaded from $30,000 rigs at car shows these days. If you're sitting on the side of the fence with the people who can't afford to trailer, but would like to competatively show their cars (which they <I> can </I> afford), they're essentially being shut out by this phenomenon. <P>This is in addition to the aesthetic that says part of the inherent value of the car is being lost if it is not being driven. When I was a judge at the 1991 Vintage Triumph Register Nationals, out of about 500 cars there was only 1 trailered drivable car (and it was less than 25 years old!). It was not well received. And frankly, I think it's owner missed out on one of the best parts of the meet and on the ownership of such an interesting car. <P>So when you hear someone complaining about "trailer queens", bear in mind their perspective. Noone thinks you should have to drive a Duesenberg from Wyoming in order to show it at Hershey, but trailering your Nova to the local Kiwanas meet may be a bit much.
<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 11-19-2000).] -
When I did this to my Mitsubishi, I'd squished one of the outlets on the heater core absolutely flat trying to remove a stuck hose (that thing was quite literally about the thickness of good quality foil!). Removal was horrifying, I'd have to remove the entire dash, part of the substructure, and at least part (or all, I don't remember) of the steering collumn. Fun.
<P>To save the core, I first carefully (w/o tearing) seperated the now flattened sides of the outlet using an awl and a punch, so that the narrow end of the funnel would enter the opening. The funnel was very small, about 1.5" wide and 2" long. After inserting the funnel, I carefully applied pressure to it, rocking it slightly back and forth and tapping on the outside of the outlet until I'd made the outlet as close to round as possible. <P>I also remember finding a small wooden shaft, I think it was part of an old clutch allignment tool, which I inserted and used to round the outlet further down its length (as much as possible). <P>When I was done the outlet was lumpy looking and had a bit of a horn shape (flared), but would accept the new hose. Since it no longer had the raised ridge at it's edge to grip the hose, and because it wasn't smooth anymore, I coated the outside of the outlet with RTV as a precaution. <P>I'm not reccommending this as a preferred method. All I can say is that it worked for me and the repair lasted at least 4 years (about 30K miles). -
It's possible that the outlets on the core were crushed by someone overtightening the clamps or using pliers to remove the hoses. This can be <I> very </I> easy to do without knowing it. When you work on the car, I'd cut the hoses off after removing the clamps to be sure not to further damage the outlets. Then I'd check to see if either of them are damaged (perhaps folded in at one point) or out of round.<P>I did this to a Mitsubishi truck once, whose heater core removal procedure was simply amazing! I re-rounded the outlets with a small plastic funnel (any soft cone-shape that fits will do) and used RTV sealant when putting on the new hoses (being sure none got on the inside of the outlet!). I waited 24 hours and refilled the system, which held pressure for at least four more years after that (when I traded the truck in). If you can fix the system without using the RTV, though, I'd avoid it. God bless the poor sap who tried to replace those hoses the next time! (I did leave a little on the outside as a clue).<P>Are you sure it isn't a bad hose at the connection? They often fail at that point, especially if the clamp is a screw type which was put on slightly askew. <P>Goo luck!
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British electrical systems don't suck. If they did, then they would actually do something!! Besides, the whole point of these things is to make them a challenge, isn't it?
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Hey, does this mean my Dad's old Dodge Volare (at least from the starboard side) has a shot? <P>Also, my Dad's 1977 LeSabre ran on 7 cylinders for the first 9 months. If I were to restore that car to "factory correct", should I disable that cylinder?
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I'd go to the best tool source you have in your area and try to find a set of (or the single size, if you prefer) cobalt <I> reverse thread </I> drill bits. I have a set that came with my easy-outs and they are wonderful. <P>Of course you need to use them with a reversable drill with some serious torque, but they do seem to work miracles. Take your time and keep a eye on the bit's tip to see if it's cutting the broken extractor or just dulling itself. About 1/2 the time I don't even need to use the easy outs at all, the heat and torque of the bit is enough to get the stud out. If you're real lucky you'll get the bolt out this way without needing to (completely) remove the broken easy out. <P>I hope that extractor was a Craftsman, that way you can get another one from them for free and break it, too!
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It's probably not for me, but I think having the option is a great idea.<P>By the way, Roberta, don't you work for GMAC???
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Also, one should <I> always </I> check with your insurer before buying a "salvage" titled car. They may very likely refuse or severly limit coverage.<P>On more thought, just in case this is a part of the equasion, forget any thought of financing the purchase of a "salvage" (in PA they call them "reconstructed") titled car. The banks don't look too kindly on them.
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John, I've been around the block a few times, but I've never heard of an "iron lot". What the heck is that?<P>Also, it may be possible to retitle the car as an "antique" or "classic" without going through all that rigamarole (depending on state regs). Unless you're looking at a car for daily driving purposes, "salvage" in a vehilcles past becomes meaningless as long as the cautions outlined by Dale ar followed.
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According to This Old Truck magazine Ol' Henry did invent one major vehicle innovation of note; the regular production, steel-bodied pick-up truck! Otherwise he pretty much was an expert in who to hire in management and engineering, and how to destroy company labor relations.
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They didn't build them to look at!
As long as there's no unacceptable roads in the trip (rough/dangerous/short I-95 on-ramps/etc.) I'd go for it.<P>One suggestion, go down to your local AAA office and buy one of their AAA Plus memberships. You'll get free towing up to 100 miles (3 per year max.). You almost certainly won't need it, but that'll calm the other half's nerves (it worked on mine!).<P>In addition to the usual tool and saftey kit and emergency fluids, I generally carry a fuel pump, water pump and voltage regulator with me. These are usually the things that'll let you down on a trip. -
Peter, my TR6 project is going on 11 years now! If you've got anything left....
<P>I've only been in this hobby for a little over 20 years, but I seem to remember a time when the authenticity of a car was more important than it's level of perfection. It is this constant upward shift in the accepted standard for show cars that I see as the driving force for our inflation problems. I would've never believed in 1975 that 1957 Chevy trailer queens would've ever become commonplace, let alone to have it happen so quickly. I remember seeing antiques with silver-painted bumpers at judged car shows, I doubt anyone would dare do that today.<P>Also, particularly within marque clubs, the definition of "authenticity" keeps becoming more and more restrictive. Did <I> anybody </I> check wheel codes on spare tires (as rodlars just alluded to) for any car before 1980? Correct size and style was what I was raised on. In Bloomington Gold judging for some Corvettes there's a 1 point deduction for failing to put an inspector's chalk mark on the right taillight, something that almost never even made it to the dealer let alone survived dealer prep! ( It does rain on these things once and a while, you know!)<P>I know when this hobby became so competition oriented, it was during the "Have It All" '80's. (Yes, I know there were earlier examples, but in general the simplification holds.) My question is why. Why do we drive ourselves so? Why is it so important to some of us to <I> prove </I> our car is better than the next guys? <P>The car is the trophy. The trailer is it's (and your) prison. After a while, we're all just making ships in bottles here. 
<P>Very expensive ones. -
Mike, The 364 in my '60 is a wonderful motor. It runs as smoothly and strong as anything I'd want to put in anyway. I'm sure when you're done you'll agree. <P>Either way, think about it this way. Would you pay more or less for a car with a mongrel motor installed (and yes, even if it is a different Buick motor the car becomes a mongrel) if you were buying it now? Now figure in that whoever built this car is someone you don't know (or who's work you're unfamiliar with), and the motor came from someplace (or someone) you've never heard of. Factor that figure into the equasion and it becomes a lot more economical to keep a car as close to stock as possible.
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Martin, you forgot about Triumph Stags!!! They're <I> always </I> woth more money with a sbc installed, and twice as much as that with a sbf (you know, brandX #2!
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It may be economically necessary to run this car through the winter for this guy, I pretty much did in a 21 year old Falcon in Iowa during three years of graduate school myself. But this keeps the hobby alive in the same sense that Arbor Day can be celebrated by sending everyone you know a fresh, 100% virgin paper Arbor Day card!
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An important consideration--putting a 1972 motor into a 1986 car is actually...well, how shall I put this?.... <B> A FEDERAL CRIME!!! </B> If you live in an area that has anything like an emissions inspection program, or ever think you <I> may </I> move to or sell the car to someone in such an area, you may have a small problem with this point. Unless, that is, you spend an absolute fortune bringing the car up to 1986 standards <I> and </I> get friendly enough with an inspector that he won't check the engines VIN number. <P>This car sounds like a daily driver being fixed up for use. If so, this will be a huge stumbling block someday if not now. If your building a street rod or something with a special registration type, you <I> could </I> possibly get away with it. It would depend on your state's regulations.<P>Good luck!
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You put 2 guys in a car and have them drive from Brooklyn to Queens, by the time they get there you'll have politics. It's inevitable in the course of human endeavors. Frankly, I've been pleased with the relative atmosphere in the club since I joined in 1995. <P>If anybody out there thinks that this club is closed minded and cliquish, bear in mind that you can post those thoughts here unedited. If that's possible, how intolerant and intolerable of an atmosphere really exists here?
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I've been getting no post confirmed page for 2 days now on all threads.
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Apparantly, a lot of us are having trouble. I've found 2 threads today that had the same mesage posted 3 times. When I tried to post on those threads, I couldn't get a response after submitting my message. I checked with the "reload" button and found that my message <I> had </I> been posted, but no resopnse back to my computer came. <P>Sorry, Peter. I'd all been going so well, too!
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Hey Bob, if you want him to trust your memory, you <I> may </I> want to remember that you've submitted your reply already!
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I find this very curious. Why would you be so concerned about the antiquity of your generator to the extent that it has to be replaced, yet the archaic floor starter mechanism has to stay?
<P>Unless you anticipate doing a <I> lot </I> of idling with a high electric load (more than just the headlights and a tube radio), you probably don't need the alternator. -
Another consideration, diplomatically pointed out to me once by a Carlisle Productions staffer, is that with similar vendors grouped together the marketplace atmosphere becomes dramatically more intense. People are able to compare prices and quality of goods much more easily, which is good for us buyers, but makes the market <I> intensly </I> cutthroat for the vendors. In other words, they'd drive each other out by having to compete so directly. <P>Even at very small events, like Import Carlisle or any of the many local swap meets, you'll never see diractly competing vendors located near each other. A swap meet organizer that does that would have no vendors to market to in very short order.
trailer queens
in General Discussion
Posted
I just want to be on record as saying that I like trailer queens! I was just trying to explain the perspective of some who don't. <P>Novaman, it wasn't the Nova that was significant in my posting, it was the local car show. I once saw someone trailer his perfectly operable 1950's car 6 <I> blocks </I> for a local show (no hail predicted!). And it wasn't even a judged event!