Dave@Moon
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Posts posted by Dave@Moon
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If you're trying to disable a key minder buzzer, it's usually easier to disable or unplug the key switch in the collumn or where ever it is on your '69. It's usually a seperate switch independant of the ignition switch, but it might be different for your car. <P>I've done that to several cars w/o complication. What happens is the buzzer never knows the key is in the ignition, so no buzzer.<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 08-04-2000).]
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Please note: the cruise for August 5 as it appears in this month's Hemmings was canceled. We were unable to secure the venue for that day. Anyone wishing to participate in the National Pike Chapter's August outing is urged to attend the SAE Foundation Car Show listed above! If you bring and register your show car, you'll be glad you did!<P>Wanderer, we're expecting almost the entire chapter to make an appearance. Hope to see you there!
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Dynaflash, if you click on the "search" icon under the posting buttons at the top of this page and have this site's search engine look up the various threads which have "young people" in the title, you'll find at least a full evening's interesting reading on just this subject. Enjoy, but don't expect much of a plot to develope!
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The last Graham models (Hollywood & Clipper) were built and sold in the middle of 1941. There were no 1942 models. It was absorbed into the Kaiser-Frazer Company during the course of the war.
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The last time I put an ad in the Bugle it took almost 4 months to have it show up in the magazine. An extra $5 a year to correct that alone is OK by me.
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Sorry 67GS, this one's a Mitsubishi in Mopar clothing! But we won't hold that against it, will we???
<P><p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 08-02-2000).] -
OK, OK. So there's no such thing as a 1939 Limited coupe! Big deal! (I was in a hurry before and didn't have time to look it up.) <P>If that sentence doesn't fly for you try replacing it with these. If you're chopping a $3000 car to make a $12K car, fine. If you're chopping a potential $35K car to make a $12K car (with all the care, skill, effort, work and outlay that could make either), then you need your head examined!
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JPCDGT, not that I'm exactly the best guy to be giving a/c advice (obviously), but I've avoided all the R-12 replacements like the plague. All the one I've seen are flammable gases (usually propane-based). Just what you want under pressure in an old system under the hood with a running engine!
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Kitno, like you I've seen elements of points 1 and 2, but I fall into neither as a general rule. I get most upset when I see rare and valuable cars (which are usually more than beautiful in their own right) modified irreversibly well after they've reached collectible status. I you're chopping a 1972 Skylark, fine. If you chopping a 1939 Limited coupe in 2000, you need your head examined.<P>As for your point 3, I don't think you could be more correct.<P>Jeffery, I think that that would be a wonderful addition to the National. It will be a highly contentious subject to say the least, but I think it will greatly enhance the scope and draw of the BCA among what is today a highly desirable element.
<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 08-01-2000).] -
A sometimes contentious discussion has erupted on the subject of the club's inclusion and treatment of modified cars on the 2000 Buick Nationals thread. It reminded me of a LONG discussion we had on several threads regarding youth involvement and a potential "Driver's Class" on the AACA forum. That intercourse led nowhere once the leaders in the AACA involved realized that driven cars are rarely strictly stock.<P>For some entertaining reading, search the AACA forum for "driver's class".<P>As I recall from the last National I attended in Columbus, there were numerous modified Buick present at the event, but the show field was strictly a judged stock affair. The modified cars that were present were relegated to the periphery of the event. <P>I'm mainly a stock restorer myself, but I do appreciate a well done modified car that is tasteful and done in a manner respectful to the marque. I do believe these cars deserve recognition beyond that which they currently recieve within the BCA. <P>My question is this: is there interest within the club for the creation of a formalized display of modified (custom/hot rod/race/driver) Buicks <I> seperate </I> from the main judged field at club events. Perhaps this could be done under the auspices of the Performance Division or the Buick Driving Enthusiasts. Perhaps a new division for modified cars could be created. Perhaps the display could be judged along the lines of a custom car show. Perhaps all of this exists and I just never noticed.<P>Most of the owners of these types of cars have been traditionally excluded by clubs like ours. This has cultivated an attitude among them often hostile to the preservation and restoration of stricly stock vehicles. I'd like to see them included in some way so as to enhance the transference of information back and forth and allow for mutual respect and concern. I've seen some terrible things done in the hot rod community which a little exposure to our concerns might've avoided. I've seen ugly attitudes towards hot rods deliberately fostered as well. <P>Any ideas? Comments? What'd I miss? How far off base am I?
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Kitno, you bring up a great point. I went through this issue last winter with some of the senior guys on the AACA side when they were discussing implementing a "Driver's Class" in their system. It seems even the trailer queen builders are getting sick of trailer queens! At any rate, they pretty much seem to have abandoned the idea after they realized cars that are driven might not be perfectly stock.
<P>From what I can recall, the BCA doesn't have a formalized system for the inclusion of custom and modified Buicks in club shows or judging. Modified cars were present at the only National I attended (1999), but only as marginal participants. Perhaps, <I> as a seperate entity within the club </I>, something like that could be formed along the lines of the Buick Driving Enthusiasts. Perhaps the Performance Division already has a display-type (or even judged) event coordinated with future Nationals for inclusion. <P>At any rate, I think this discussion deserves a seperate thread. I'll start one under the title "A new can of worms". Be ready for some ugly responses, reflecting that "community" thing. -
John, how'd that guy even get a week out of the Vega? There was a guy on my dorm floor in 1977 who had a built 427 Vega (it was real, I saw it!). He said that the skinny bias plys on the front couldn't overcome the torque from the motor mounts, and the car would only turn left after it was done. He'd push it out of the garage, fire it up, make it around the block and back into the garage, and shut it back down.
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I just have to.<P>A: I'm a <I> LOT </I> closer to 35 than 55. Someday neither one of us will. And to be honest, the vast majority of serious hot-rodders I know are over 55 anyway. <P>B: I once saw an L-29 Cord with a 428 Ford in it (it rhymed, somebody thought it was cute!), so there really are people in the world who appreciate the inherent value of rare iron less than you!<P>C: If car collecting doesn't exist, why are there two major magazines with the name in the title (Car Collector and Collectible Automobile)? If it exists, then the stamp analogy stands.<P>D: Why do so many people buy one of the major antique car value guides regularly if the cars don't have constant values? And if interest in the cars wanes so badly over the years, where's my valuless (and therefore free) brass-era touring car?<P>E: Rare, even unobtainable pieces go to street rod projects every day. Ever try to find nice 1956 Packard tail lights. You could walk Carlisle all day. I saw 2 sets at a car cruise Wed. night, but they weren't on Packards.<P>F: Help can only be given when it's requested and accepted. Do you guys read any of the other threads?<P>G: No body tells anyone what to do with their cars, that much is true. But as a community there is a social framework to what we do, and some things will be seen as unacceptable by a majority of the members of that framework. It is nebulous, but there are guidelines that can be discerned (otherwise you wouldn't be wasting your time soldering that Stude's grille). Also those guidelines change over time. That was the only point being made, if anyone "conflicts" with that, sorry
(see point F).<P>H: Nobody cares what you're going to do to modify your street rod the way you care, that's why I didn't bore anyone here with the details of the Cutlass. Specifics aren't the point of the discussion, don't look for solace in them.<P>You can enjoy your car (stock, rod or custom) and be an asset to the hobby and it's future, or you can just be as a$$. You can do the same collecting knives, guns or fine wines. It's not cut and dried or a total hedonistic free-for-all. <p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 07-28-2000).] -
Oops! Sorry Don, but thanks. That was 27 oz. of R-134a (=85% of R-12 capacity). I's done failed 'em grammer classes!
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Greg, I'm going to need more than luck. I tried to use the a/c 2 more times. It worked great the first time with minimal noise. The second time the noise was worse than ever and the compressor finally froze up. <P>p.s. The Interdynamics kit used ester oil.
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By the way, 73Electra, I'm not the judging expert here but I believe that the in archive class a limited amount of rust might be OK (w/ point deductions of course), but the mods are definately out.
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Wisdom awaits us all!
<P>I love it. In one foul swoop every negative point about hot rodding is born out! If anyone actually read what I wrote, it was pro-modification. It's knowledge that's the problem, in addition to the easily observed problems with tolerance and perspective. To equate modifying a 21 year old Oldsmobile with a production run of 750,000 to the butchering of a 60 year old Hupmobile with a production run of about 300 is silly. And it is symptomatic of a culture where the owner's ego is more important than the owner's interests.<P>There is a famous true story in the stamp collecting world. The owner of one of the most valuable stamps in existance found out that the only other surviving example of that stamp was goin on auction. He bought it (well over $100,000.00, then the highest price ever paid for a stamp), and met with the seller over dinner that evening. They exchanged the money and stamp at the dinner table. The seller remarked "Congratulations, you now own the only 2 examples of this stamp!" The buyer lit a cigar and burnt the stamp. He said, "The only <I> one! </I> ". He later made a fortune selling the other stamp, but he was a pariah in the stamp community for the rest of his life.<P>What if it makes you happy to paint a moustache on the Mona Lisa? What if it makes you happy to eat condor omlets? What if it makes you happy to run Bugattis in demolition derbys? <P>The guy who burnt the stamp knew what he was destroying and that he was destroying it. If he wanted to make it better he could've re-engraved the portrait of Queen Elizabeth, hightened the colors, regummed it, chemically treated the paper to improve its appearance or printed Neve Campbell's picture on it to make it look better. But he would've done all of that with the full knowledge of the rarity and irreplacability of his raw material. <P>Making your car better for you is all well and good, God knows I've done it in one form or other to all of mine. But don't pretend for one minute that because it's better for you that it better for anyone else, or that anyone else will appreciate those changes the way and to the degree that you do. <P>And don't forget that the body of material we have to work with shrinks daily, no matter what kind of car we're building. Do you <I> really </I> want to be known as the guy who used the last NOS 1953 Studebaker grille in the world for a chopped, monotone yellow big-block street rod? And if that doesn't bother you now, how long from now will it?<P>The funny part of all of this is that the guys on the AACA side of this forum hate me for being <I> much </I> too pro-modification for their tastes (I really got slammed by Sal G over there today, in fact). It's the tolerance and perspective issues that needs to be continually addressed here to keep our hobby strong. This is a community and needs to be treated as such, not just something you selfishly do to make yourself happy. <P>And if all of this sounds too smug to you, then you're probably critiquing and looking for self-reinforcement rather than trying to digest the content. Sorry! <p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 07-27-2000).] -
What is there, something in the water this week. This is the second time in 2 days I've on posted this topic (the other on the AACA forum).<P>I have a set of easy outs that included a set of reverse drill bits. These work much better than regular easy outs, often just the drill bit's pressure is enough to get the bolt end out.
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The oil most definately went in. In fact between the 2 12 oz. cans and the 3 oz. w/ the oil, I had exactly the 27 oz. I needed. I then added the stop leak, and everything was hunky-dory for about 2 hours running time. <P>The car's a 1990 Dodge Spirit. I know, but for what I paid for this thing 6 years ago w/ 28K miles on it you would of bought it too!
<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 07-26-2000).] -
If it's cold in the winter where you are, leave the car inside and (safely) run the motor and go through the gears to keep things lubricated. I try to do it about once a month. <P>Dale is right about condensation on the insides of cold cars brought into warm garages. Combine this with even mild potential salt exposure in 30 year old metal and your asking for serious, fast body damage. If you have an unheated garage or live in AZ, don't sweat it as much but be aware!<P>If you decide not to run it, the real victum of engine condensation during storage is on the cylinder walls and the interior of the exhaust system. I'd reccommend "fogging" the engine by running it a about 3000 rpm (in park) and <I> slowly </I> pouring a light oil down the carb. Marine suppliers have a spray oil called "fogging oil" for just this purpose. Shut the car off while still pouring the oil to coat the cylinder walls and exhaust. You'll be making huge clouds of oil smoke, especially next spring when you start it up, so be ready to explain it to the neighbors, fire dept, mom, etc....<P>I don't like to do this in my LeSabre, because it does nothing to slow the dynaflow's leaking due to inactivity. If your tranny seals are good and you don't leak much fluid, this may be the way to go for you. <p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 07-26-2000).]
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O.K., here's the story. I bit the bullet on my wife's car and converted it over to R-134a. The a/c system leaked and I obviously couldn't add R-12 anymore. Since it leaked out, I never bothered to convert it and it sat unused for 2 years. <P>Then I discovered that Interdynamics sold R-134a Stop-Leak in addition to the conversion kits. I put it in as per the instructions, and it worked perfectly <I> until.... </I>
<P>Three days of use later, the compressor clutch is slipping and squealing loudly. The car had no such symptoms before. I've had at least one informed opinion that the stop leak clogged the lines and the compressor can't fight it. I noticed after the car is shut off that the compressor "creeps" forward about 1/64th of a turn 2 or 3 times, slipping the clutch.<P>It still blows cold air, in spite of the problem. <P>Is it a bad clutch, or did I clog the lines? I don't want to drop the coin for a new compressor or clutch assembly if it's going to do the same thing. Has anyone else used this stuff? I wondered how you could clog a leak in the lines w/o clogging the oriface tube, but apparantly it's not yet clogged because it's still blowing cold air. <P>Anybody want to buy a used car? 
<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 07-26-2000).] -
I have a set of easy outs that came with reverse spin drill bits. If you have enough of the bolt left to continue drilling out some more, you can try these. The easy out gets a much better bite on the bolt. Also just by applying pressure in the reverse of normal by using the drill bits I often (about 20% of the time) get the bolt out just with the drill bits.
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Put me on that "wrong road" RIGHT NOW!!!!!
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If you're looking for a real buy, there's a 1960 Invicta parts car on there (up in 12 hours as of now) that's bid only to $100. If I had a way to transport it here from IL and the money for the subsequent divorce settlement I'd be all over it! It's listed under "Misc. Collectibles" for some reason!!
Howard Where are You!
in General Discussion
Posted
What did happen to me? I tried to edit myself just after the posting and now its gone. I must've deleted it by mistake.<P>Anyway, as best I can remember, what I said was that the point of all of this was that I feel a lot of antique car guys are going to vote against Al Gore because he's a committed environmentalist (damn the lousy scum!
) and therefore decidedly anti-automotive. Unfortunately the alternative, Mr. Bush and his running mate, are just as ardently pro-"Big Oil", and therefore decidedly anti-antique. <P>As a matter of fact, Mr. Cheney is leaving his post as CEO of Halliburton (THE major oil industry service concern) to run for V.P. He's doing this to the tune of a 98% pay cut compared to his 1999 earnings (anybody out there think there's a quid-pro-quo in that 
)?<P>At any rate, whichever of these guys wins the election it's going to be a long 4 years for the lot of us!!<P>By the way Howard, as a conservative libertarian you're actually (I think) in the majority of people in this country. That's why the two parties pretend to be as such whenever they think they're in trouble. It sure fooled enough people in 1980 and 1992, didn't it?<BR><p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 08-07-2000).]