Dave@Moon
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Posts posted by Dave@Moon
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I assume sold as-is, where-is!
<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 10-05-2000).] -
I'm sorry, I was just spending my last dime trying to remodel a bathroom, am I missing something (for the first time since the real Bush was President
)? <P>I was going to suggest a Hersheycam.com site, but it sounds too much like one of those sites you can't get if you've got a Cyber-Patrol adult sites screen in your computer! 
<P>Actually, there's an obvious place to put the camera, on top of the stadium. It could focus on the car corral and chocolate fields for 3 days, and on the show field on Saturday. <P>And, if you left the image up for the rest of the year, it would be one hell of an ad for the organization. 
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If you want to really gauge the interest in a new Buick book, you might want to take the lead from Don's offer. Start a new thread which requests photos for the book, thereby explaining the book and at what stage you're at in evaluating the prospect of publishing it. <P>You may want to start a thread on the AACA thread, as there are numerous Buick owners there that don't frequent this page.
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Anybody notice that there are more books written on the AMC's, Studebakers, Dodges or even Allis Chalmers's of the 1960's then there are on Buicks. I think a good quality coffee table book would find a <I> very </I> ready market. Buick is probably more ignored in print relative to it's hobbiest popularity than any other marque. I literally have twice as many books on my TR6 as my Buick.<P>If it were me, I'd begin the book in 1953, not 1960, however. This would be because of the introduction of the V8 that year. Also one of the largest Buick hobbiest markets is the 1955-1959 era.<P>Now, you don't happen to have any influence on the AMT people and the 1/24th scale models they choose to reissue now and then, do you????
<p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 10-02-2000).] -
I have one of these on my 1960 LeSabre as the sole fuel delivery. It's a Purolator 7 psi output model. <P>I'm not sure if your's works the same way as mine, but there is a rapping sound from the pump normally. It's irritating, but tolerable. <P>Whe I installed the first one the sound was very bad. I took it back to Pep Boys and exchanged it. The second pump came with plugged connector ends (plastic plugs) and the pump was fill of oil. The guy at Pep Boys said they're always packed that way. My first one was either defective or a return that had dried out. The second one as much quieter.<P>Did your pump(s) come packed with oil in the pumping chamber? If not you may have gotten 2 bad ones in a row.
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People are generally sick of hearing my thoughts on this matter, but here's a few observations you may want to ponder:<P>1. Restoring cars to the constantly rising standards that show cars have reached over the last 30 years gets more expensive with each coming year (envirnomental regulation, new tools and techniques, parts scarcity, etc.). Also each new year of car admitted into the field (most of which will be the cars of choice for younger people) is increasingly more complicated and concommitantly more expensive to restore. <I> And you're concerned with how younger enthusiasts will be able to afford travel expenses? </I> Think of the implications for car restoration given that.<P>2. For about 20 years, 1970-1990, cars simply weren't the same as they had been in past generations. Noone breathlessly awaited the arrival of the new Chevy Cavalier or stood outside the Ford dealer to see the unveiling if the 1978 Fairmont (let alone the 1979, 1980,...etc.). When you raise a generation under different circumstances, they see things differently. Most people I know see their cars (old or new) as something they can/should/will/have to improve somehow. <P>3. Specialty/marque clubs enjoy a position that didn't exist even 10 years ago. What would you pay more for, an AACA Senior 1958 Corvette or a Bloomington Gold 1958 Corvette? <P>4. All interests actively pursued are self-motivated. Your parentage may give you exposure to the hobby, but it's appeal keeps you here. My dad thinks that anything without a warrantee is an antique and should be discarded. It is a preservationist mindset that appeals to me, not a memory. Find the young people working on environmental, archeological or historical preserves and you'll find your audience.<P>5. In answer to heizmann's question, most people my age view the AACA (unfairly) as a wealthy retiree's club. The time and money necessary to be even a marginal player within most aspects of the AACA that I'm aware of is more than even fairly well-off young families can afford. As far as competing with other hobbies, this is often the death knell for interest. In most hobbies you can have a hell of a lot of fun for $3000, and you can often make a passable street rod for that, too. In the world of authentic antique cars, at that price you can be little more than an object of derision (again, this is an outside and unfair observer's viewpoint).<P>Since registering with this forum my personal opinion of the AACA has improved markedly. My concerns for its future, and the future of the part of the hobby that I most enjoy, are darker every day, however. I beleive that in the near future we are going to have to do <B> anything </B> that puts more old cars in young hands. <P>And if your car is hiding in a garage or trailer, and not being paraded in front of a bunch of envious 23 year-olds that you don't know, then it isn't doing it's part. If other people <I> see </I> you having fun in your Terraplane or Model T, then you've given them the biggest step in joining us--exposure! Take it to the local "Oldies" cruise with all the damn Chevys, you'll be glad you did.<P>--The resident wet blanket has spoken again, age 42.
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It's going to be bad news for the owner trying to sell, but I think most of us would rather know if our car wasn't what we thought it was. I'd feel worse if I were the seller and the buyer came back to me later with the bad news, so you may very well be thanked for the information.<P>It is amazing how many of the Saturday night cruisers that you see that are fakes. I remember a story in Cars & Parts from about 12 years ago about a VIN search service for Pontiacs and their results on GTO verifications. As I remember, at that time they said about 1/2 of the GTO's they'd checked so far were fakes, with fakery increasing with rarity. The artical said that all of the 1971 Judge's that they'd so far checked (either 5 or 7, I can't remember) were fakes. <P>I think we should enjoy our cars for the intrinsic value anyway. This economic crap just interferes with that. But I wouldn't want to be an unwilling accomplice to this kind of fraud at any rate, and I'd want someone to tell me if I was about to be an accomplice. <P>Maybe I'd tell the guy when I wasn't alone with him, just in case.
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Flipped Over, Retreads Desired?
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We do what we can! Now let's see, that's c-a-r-p-o---t-u-n-n-l-e---s-y-n....<BR>
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The British tool I have is called an "Eazy-Bleed". It works very similar to the pierced master cylinder cap idea posted by Mitch on the other thread, except the pressure is applied to a reservior that forces brake fluid into the master cylinder through one of a series of special application master cylinder cap replacements that come with the kit. That way you don't have to take the whole damn thing apart and risk spraying brake fluid all over your paint every time you need to refill the master!<P>It is a you're-a-peon tool, however, and the caps fit Europe applications only. I haven't gotten around to it yet, but I'm going to make my own cap for this tool to fit my American cars. <P>So far the Mightyvac setup is just to easy to use to switch.
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I've been to about half the Carlisle shows since 1978. Bargains exist, but only in nooks and crannys. The first place I go is the North Field, where most of the least experienced vendors are. Other advice:<P>1. It will be 30 degrees in the morning and 80 degrees in the afternoon, and only rain constantly or when you're carrying rare literature.<P>2. The heaviest item you buy will be (literally) about 3 miles from your car. Bring a small red wagon just in case.<P>3. A paperboy satchel is a wonderful thing.<P>4. You have to tip the port-a-john attendants for any bodily function, so get your money's worth. Bring a good book with you!
(Seriously, there's no worse a feeling than a full bladder or colon at Carlisle and no loose change.)<P>5. Bring something to drink! There's no water on site that's less than $2 a bottle. Pop is generally cheaper.<P>6. Find the smoked turkey legs and eat them, they're worth it!<P>7. If you get there before 7:00AM you'll have almost no traffic, if you get there after 7:15AM figure on 1 hour + in line to park.<P>8. Good shoes are great, orthopedic inserts are greater, orthotics RULE!!!!<P>9. If you don't have a parts manual for you car, buy one there. If you do, keep it in the car for reference just in case.<P>10. Bring 2 pairs of shoes and socks incase there's mud. It's not biblical like at Hershey, but your car's carpet will thank you on the way home at least.<P>11. Buy a program and bring a pen to make notes. Write the space number of any part you want to check back on later, it's amazing how fast all the aisles start to look the same.<P>12. Don't use Carlisle for research, do that before you get there. If not, you will be had by someone.<P>Finally, bring twice as much money as you think you'll need and 5 times more than you told your wife you'll need (just kidding, dear!) 
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Uh-Uh! You can't find some of the older size caps at the chain stores. My 1960 caps don't exist in places like Pep Boys, Advance and the like. I'd reccommend going to the oldest, smallest auto parts store you can find for any pre-1960 car. <P>And if the guy starts to look it up in a computer instead of a book (or better, matching sizes out of dirty looking boxes), head for the door and save yourself the time!
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Why are you people still pumping the pedal to bleed brakes?
It has to be at least 10 years ago I discovered this wonderful tool, the minivac vaccuum pump. Using it and it's one man bleeder attachment I've not had to pump a brake pedal in years! The cheap one man bleeders don't work because you need to apply pressure to the nipple that connects to the bleeder to get a good seal. With the vaccuum pump attached to the bleeder you do the whole job from under the car (except to refill the master cylinder as neccessary), so you can hold the nipple against the bleeder and maintain the seal yourself if neccessary.<P>Oh yeah, you can use the pump for vaccuum work, too (diaphragms, etc.). I think that's why they were invented to begin with. (Actually they were stolen form the scientific community, where they were used for, among other things, sample preparation and filtration in the field and in th lab.)<BR> <BR>I also have a British tool which replaces the master cylinder cap with a reservior that has a hose line attached. You hook to the schraeder valve on one of your tires and use the tire pressure to push fluid through the lines.<P>If you must pump the pedal to bleed brakes, it is best not to pump the pedal all the way to the floor. Try to only use the amount of pedal you'd normally use driving the car. It makes for a much longer job, but it avoids driving the master cylinder's seals through any bore corrosion or dposits which may exist beyond the area kept clean by use. -
Two vendors from my good pile: <P>1. I've have very good experience with Skip Boyer, he's been helpful, informed and very reasonable to deal with each time I've bought something from him.<P>2. This year at Carlisle I had the guy at Buicks Unlimited (I can't find his card right now and his name escapes me) actually talk me <I> out </I> of buying 2 brake drums off of him that he thought I really didn't need. He was right. How many times has that happened?<P>I think Martin is generally right about "real" parts stores, however... As for the chains, my brother is a manager for Advance. When he was training there I went in to his (brand new) store and asked for a temperature sending unit for my 1960 nailhead (and snickered). If I remember right this piece was only used through 1961. He had it on the shelf! Never discount (intensional pun
) any potential source.<P>I've only used Buick Farm once, but had no problems. They are my supplier of last resort, however, because of their prices. -
I couldn't beleive it either, but yes they really did make (and I think still do) make pacemakers!
Anybody for a dry salad dinner??? -
John, I thought you had a Triumph like me. If you do, this kind of work should be second nature by now. This is practically a sport with my TR6.<P>And by the way, just so I can frighten someone and make my day complete, it's an excellant bet that at least one person reading this forum will <I> actually </I> have a <B> Lucas </B> pacemaker in them. (Yep, they really do make 'em!
).<P>Especially on the brass connections, but also for any thin metal that needs to be cleaned, I prefer to use a set of tiny hand files that I bought at a swap meet once. It takes a little longer and you go through more Band-Aids, but you're less likely to burn through the connector than you are with a Dremmel tool. -
Dynaflash, 50 mph in a 1960 Falcon isn't really all that bad. I used mine to commute back and forth from Pittsburgh to Iowa State a lot. Floored with a tail wind it could do 72 mph, that's it. I was in a headwind on US22 (now I-78) outside Allentown, PA once where the thing could only go 48 mph.<P>Of course that car had a 2 speed Fordomatic (too low and too high!). <P>My dad had a 1977 LeSabre new until 1979, when he gave up on it. After about 18K miles it was <B> still </B> running on 7 cylinders above 2000 rpm, with no fix as far as the dealer was concerned. The 1970's gave us lemon laws with good reason!
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494/494<P>Hey this is fun with a new mouse!
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by DugsSin:<BR><B>Am I the only one who noticed that Dave's count stayed they same through his 12 post's?</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE><P>The count only shows the total by that individual at the time you called up the thread. It'd be nice if we could get a number for each posting (i.e. this would be post 492/492, the previous posts above would've been 475-487/492, I think). That might help in calling up old threads for reference.
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Howard:<P>The Orioles were in the World Series in 1971 and 1979. I know, because the Pirates beat them!
Was baseball losing its appeal in the '70's? -
Originally posted by Coppens:<BR>I guess it was the acid in the mixture. Just think what it does to your stomach if it can take paint off a car.<P>Note:<BR>pH of Coke, about 2.5<BR>pH of Hazardous Waste, 2.0<BR>pH of your stomach acid, normally 1.0<P>I knew a girl in college who had serious ulcer problems and drank 1-2 gallons of coke a day. We used to think it was the acid, but it probably was really the caffiene.<P>
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Without a doubt, my favorite family car was the 1960 Falcon I bought to get through graduate school in 1979. It nickled and dimed me to death in school, but I kept it afterward and restored it as my first antique. It's really my favorite, though, because my wife and I started our family inside it (after a <I> great </I> deal of practice there I might add!
).<P>Unfortunately the most reliable cars I've ever owned were all Japanese, and I don't think anyone wants to hear about them. The only car that ever approached them for me as daily drivers was the 1990 Dodge Spirit I just buried this week 400 miles short of 100K (blown expensive tranny). I got 75K miles out of that one over 5 1/2 years and I still have less than $6000 in it. -
And I thought the only place you could get refried hawk was at Chi-Chi's!
<P>Allan, bolting that 215 two feet behind your ears may present a minor "nvh" (noise/vibration/harshnss {or would that be heat in this case?}) problem. I hope your planning on doing something besides letting your wife's hair get caught in the fan belt! <p>[This message has been edited by Dave@Moon (edited 09-14-2000).]
Should I go to Hersey?
in General Discussion
Posted
Firstimer, noone <I> ever </I> asks this question twice! 'Nuff said.