miggytosh

@Garnet & Gold I read on this forum and the Reatta forum that the WABCO STC2784 should work and ordered it. I got the ATI "equivalent" from FCP Euro. Turned out it had a larger diameter threaded nipple than the original and I didn't want to rethread the riser and likely weaken it. I ordered a different one that was also WABCO STC2784 and visually matches the nipple size/tapper. I had actually ordered the second one before but returned it when I almost returned the car from where I purchased it (another story) and I remember that side by side the part looked like it had the correct nipple/thread size. I do wish the part details would verify the actually size so fingers crossed that it is 14MM x 1.50 which is the correct size/threads for OEM. I'll update the thread after I get it and hopefully install it.

Thanks for all of the responses on this! I was able to get the accumulator off attached to the riser but then had to figure out how to separate the two. I ended up putting penetrating oil on the seam, letting it sit and the using a vise to hold the riser tube, vise grips at the top of the accumulator, and a breaker bar to separate the two. With a little patients and leverage it finally broke free. Bad news is that the replacement accumulator was wrong and now I need to order another one (hopefully they send me the right part this time). Once I get that it should be easy-peasy to get back on.

TC Team- I need to replace the accumulator on my '89 TC. I tried once and couldn't break it free from the riser tube, any tips?

ZC2FP1108KB200944 01/89 Light Yellow Ginger Tan black top SOHC

Hey @Hemi Dude mine is a 01/89 build SOHC 2.2. And I was able to remove just the motor (what a pain). Cheers- @miggytosh

@Garnet & Gold Motor only. Window is and regulator “structure” is fine

Thanks @marty14, that is what I suspected too. Definitely need a rear driver's QTR window. For now I was able to remove the motor, make sure the window could move freely, and for now I can manually raise and lower.

@no1parfive I was really hoping that would work too. Unfortunately taking it an apart and cleaning the brushes didn’t work either.

I was able to refurb the main drivers door window switch controller and now 3 or 4 windows work. Unfortunately the rear drivers side window motor is fried so it f anyone knows where to get a replacement, let me know.

@Reaper1 did you ever find a replacement rear power window motor? Got mine out and it is fried, so now on the lookout for a replacement or someone who can rebuild

OK, so I tested again at the door plug, removing the switch from the equation, all but one window works. Which leads me to believe that the switch is the culprit for 3 of the four windows. I can also roll down the passenger side window with the passenger door switch. I also need to troubleshoot the drivers back window but it is more likely a issue with that motor. I will need to pull apart the back to know for sure. Any recommendations on where to get an drivers side master window switch (part# 30505H)? Thanks!

I just picked up an '89 SOHC with 58K original miles and everything works well except for the driver front and rear power windows. I cleaned the contacts on the main switch the connector in the drivers door and when I check the voltage at the outputs of the switch I get 12+v and my ohm meter reads about 1.2ohms from power input on the main switch to all individual switch outputs (manually pressing up and down to trigger). Further, if I give the drivers door window direct voltage it will go up and down and the motor sounds good. I suspect that there is a pinched/broken wire between the switch and the motor for the door since it goes up and down directly - other ideas? For the back window I haven't taken it apart yet to check the motor directly - again any other things to check? Thanks!