ddavis

Thanks for the info edinmass. When you say you always update your pumps, do you mean full update(no packing) or just the quality rebuild?

My flaring tools accept to 3/16", and I have not located a tool that does 1/8. My 1932 Studebaker has a 1/8 vacuum advance line and the original fittings are flare. I can chuck a drill bit and run it in reverse and get OK flare but it is weak and would need to be annealed- must be a better way- ideas anyone?

Here are photos of my pump. It has been tapped for heater feed, don't know if it was factory tapped or not.

Thanks RBK, still haven't found anyone that will perform this conversion, if anyone has any leads on who might, please let me know.

I am trying to have my water pump updated to sealed bearing instead of packing(leaking). I know they are supposed to drip occasionally but anti-freeze is very dangerous to animals and they seem to love the taste. I have tried Egge Machine, Flying Dutchman, and waiting response from OG Water Pumps- some say 'maybe, send it and we will see'. Does any one know a company that is familiar with this conversion? I have searched but haven't found anything in this forum. I was sure I saw a post about this here.

Your not the first person, with much more experience than I, stating I may be wasting my time trying to have a pre-war car with very few leaks. I will continue to fix what I can but I will be more realistic about my goals. I don't like having my car leave any mess when I go to a car show. Often the folks that let us use their parking lots for car shows are doing it gratis, so I take a BIG drip pan that fits in a contractor garbage bag. It is a pain.

After the thorough cleaning of the pumpkin I have found that the leak is coming from the front (driveline side) differential cover, not the rear cover as I expected. The rear cover has a gasket but none is visible nor shown on the front cover in the parts books. I need to split the case there and apply some kind of minimal sealant- any advice of what sealant and method works well?

One lesson I learned on the subject- in my state we have satellite DMV's that do certain title and licensing tasks, which may save time on simple procedures but do not have the capabilities of the 'actual' DMV. I purchased a 1932 Studebaker, with good records and title, in my attempt to get new plates they stated there was a new requirement to review past transactions and there was a problem uncovered. To solve they would need to go back a few owners and get the state that flagged it to solve the issue. We don't have much of a summer here in Alaska. I started in May and returned to 'almost a DMV' a month later (during this time I could not legally drive the car). When I inquired about progress they admitted that they couldn't really solve this and I should go to the actual DMV. Wish they had told me that a month earlier. Went to official DMV and they solved the problem in a few hours. Lesson learned.

Was not looking, but when it came up for sale locally, I couldn't help buying it. don't care if I got a 'good deal' or not, seemed like a wonderful car for price. Came with spare engine, trans, everything from fan blade to rear axle assembly. Runs, drives nice, rebuilt engine, transmission and 1939 overdrive installed.

Do you have some of these available for sale?

Thank you, agreed! I wasn't in the market but when it appeared for sale in our local car club newsletter, I took the plunge. My first 'true' antique car and I am learning a lot about preciousness of pre-war parts. I have had it less than a year.

Wondering if it is safe to jack up the rear end at one point, the differential. Not sure how tough they are. How about the front end- any place safe for single point lift?

While I enjoyed working on cars in my youth, I was not gifted as a mechanic. After retirement, at age 67, I have had a resurgence of car work the last several years. I spent three years restoring our 1985 camping van, upgrading running gear to a LS engine and 4L60 transmission, gutting and rebuilding the interior. Now I have acquired a 1932 Studebaker Dictator which I plan to dink with as long as I am able. A few big differences where I am at this stage of life: I have time- not just throwing a repair together to get to work- if I don't get it done today I can do it tomorrow. I am always trying to learn new things to keep my mind fed. Most of all I have patience I never had when young. Less cursing, more satisfaction.

It's great for hanging your trouble light on when working on the back area.😁

They don't seem to draw much power, I think you would be fine with a decent extension cord- just don't overdo it! I would run it for 10 minutes max and then let it sit for a few hours. They saturate a small area like a car very quickly. Too much will leave a different odor.

Agreed. These are not little desk top purifiers; they are a serious machine. Entering a room where one is operating is asking for trouble. The first time I used it I waited a few minutes before leaving and could feel a 'heaviness' in my lungs, after that I used a respirator just to turn it on and get out. Ozone reverts to Oxygen molecules in a few hours, but until then stay out. I underestimated how much Ozone a less than $100 machine would produce, I bet in a few years you won't be able to buy one this powerful.

Thanks Fordy, Zepher and Scooter- These machines are more powerful and possibly damaging if overused. You definitely don't want to be in the area while in use. I ran it for just a few minutes in the Studebaker and that was plenty- I could see where they might destroy/damage fabrics (and lung tissue). In our cabin I used it after scrubbing everything down with a water/vinegar solution and that seemed to work fine. The ozone breaks down into oxygen after a few hours, but too much ozone can create odor problems as well.

Have folks had success with using ozone generators to rid their old cars of the musty smell? My 1932 Dictator has a musty smell, and I am tempted to run an ozone generator for a short time to eliminate the smell. These units are very powerful, and I have just used one to rid a cabin of cigarette smells (after thorough cleaning with vinegar). Anyone have experience with these units for this purpose?

Enjoyed and related to your post! In my first year of owning a 1932 Studebaker Dictator and researching parts has been an eye opener. I was fortunate enough to have received an entire set of running gear- engine, transmission, axles, driveline etc. I have developed an appreciation of the completeness of my vehicle and the huge amount of work done by the previous owner. While the car is a 'driver', I have become very careful about not damaging any component due to the difficulty of replacing anything I might break.

Due to the unexpected purchase of a 1932 Dictator, my Tacoma now sits outside in the weather for the first time since I bought it in 2004. Garage space is a coveted in cold climates as it saves the electricity used to plug the vehicle in and who likes sweeping snow and scraping the ice off the windshield? Another shop building is in planning but still far in the future.

Thanks NZ and Starlight! It seems amazing, with all the parts documentation that exists, that there would be a loss of this information. I know 1932/1933 was desolate time for Studebaker (and many manufacturers), but I wonder if there was a fire that destroyed records or if the loss is related to the bankruptcy. I will keep up the search but sounds like I might have to resort to estimating to approximate total number of model 62's- I am guessing around 4000 of the 6000 were the 62 sedans. And attempting how to approximate how many were destroyed entirely, and then how many were stripped and converted to hot rods, could be less than 1000 left in the world that are as original and complete as mine.

There were supposedly 6021 of the Dictators made that year. Can anyone help me find out how many for each model type? As in : Coupe, for two Coupe, for four St. Regis Sedan, for five Convertible Roadster, for five convertible Sedan, for five Eventually I would like to determine how many of the Model 62 were produced.

Resolved- weatherstrip adhesive on manifold-gasket, shoved hose down on water pump, bolted/torqued manifold, let sit overnight. Next day pulled hose up onto manifold. No leaks

Thanks Studerex. I have been buying the gaskets and washers from Olson's and they are great to deal with. I appreciate your suggestion on flat washers on top of the copper crush washers. Maybe that will allow re-torquing without damaging the crush washers. My next attempt will entail loosening the water pump, removing the section of hose until the manifold is fastened, so the hose does not pull the manifold away from block. Any advice of how much torque should be used on the manifold?