ddavis

Been having problems sealing the water manifold. I have been using permatex high tack on all sides of the gasket and try sliding it into water pump hose (I don't think the short hose can be installed later). It seems the hose angle keeps the manifold from sealing properly. I would hate to torque the plate(10 ft/lbs -5/16 bolts) and then have to install hose and water pump to it. Next try will be cork gasket adhesive to the manifold plate only, dry to block, crush washers. Any advice?

John Deprey-The coil/switch seems bizarre to me- so interesting learning about the variety of designs on the early cars. Can you even buy the originals/reproductions anywhere? Just curious, not interested on using one on my 32 Dictator although it answers what the three studs were around the mounting. The picture you posted showing unit from the side is the first time I have seen what it looks like. Thanks

I am thinking my ignition switch is not original. There is an external coil under the dash. It is a Aetna-Pollak that seems much later than 1932.

Guess nobody has ever replaced one of these. When I get a solution I will post it. And Gary Ash you are the man- amazing work on your reproduction car and I love your CAD drawings!

Thanks Gary- I am hoping to find the replacement ignition switch assembly. Small world - the link you posted is BlueTaxi- that's who I bought my car from- that's my Dictator in his profile pic! When I originally inquired about buying, Rick said 'if you buy the car, you have to take all the parts'. So, I also have a spare engine, transmission, running gear, steering wheel/column/gear box, many cables and many NOS parts. Now that I understand how hard it can be to find 'pre-war' parts, I am even more thankful.

My Dictator ignition key/switch still functions but it is not going to for much longer. Can anyone help with hints on what fits or a supplier? studebaker part # 177165. appreciate any help or ideas.

I figured the solenoid action shouldn't care about polarity. I just need to spend time with a tester and get better at wrapping my head around the 'positive ground' system. The horn works great and I like the sound so I will stick with it until I get to the bottom of negative powered frame. Will rewire it if I don't find any bad wiring. Thanks for the info.

Yes, the Dictator name didn't help their export sales, glad the name wasn't my idea....

One of my dual horns(multi tone) is isolated and the frame is always hot (car is positive ground). It shifts and contacts the grill and tries to weld itself to it. passenger side works normally- first pic drivers side works but frame energized-second pic horn that rotates clockwise and melts grill- third pic The two horns are different, on the offending horn the resistor circuit is attached to horn frame, the other horn has it isolated. I can't imagine that the solenoid would care if it is positive ground or not- anybody know?